The main condition for hair care is the washing up... You need to wash your hair as it gets dirty, but wash it right. The frequency of washing is determined individually and depends on a number of factors: hair and skin type, hair length, nature of work, season, etc. It should be borne in mind that the softer the means for shampooing, the more often it needs to be washed. In winter, the head is also washed more often, since the headdress does not allow the head to "breathe" and because of this, more sebum is released.

For centuries, massage was considered effective remedy raising vitality, strengthening health. The word massage itself comes from the Arabic "mass", which means light pressure. The massage is performed by applying mechanical irritation in the form of stroking, rubbing, kneading, vibrating, beating. It helps to prolong youth, restores elasticity to muscles, and improves mood. Massage was already known in Ancient China, India, Greece. Massage is especially important for hair care.

Head washing and massage technology

Before you start washing your hair, you need to comb it gently. The more times you brush through your hair, the better. Then it is recommended to soak them in warm water, apply a little shampoo and massage gently with your fingertips.

In order not to disrupt the activity of the sebaceous glands, the selected shampoo must necessarily correspond to the type of hair. Using the detergent for the first time, you need to carefully read the instructions for it and the method of application. It is undesirable to use shampoo for all hair types at all, or only as a last resort. It contains many chemical additives that can ruin hair.

Shampoo should be applied to well-dampened hair. Otherwise, it will saturate them unevenly, and washing will be unsuccessful. Experts advise rubbing the shampoo over the palms, and then transferring it to the head.

For optimal results, it is best to rinse your hair twice. First you need to lather and rinse thoroughly with plenty of water, removing most of the fat. Then you should lather again, massage with your fingers for 1-2 minutes and rinse.

When using conditioner, the main thing is not to overdo it. There is no need to rub it into the roots, as only the ends and middle sections of the hair need it.

Rinsing helps hair health cold water... This improves skin tone and increases blood circulation.

During the massage, movements are performed smoothly, not in jerks. The fingertips are pressed tightly against the skin and hair roots.

• 1. Massage begins with light stroking. It is produced with the palms or fingertips of both hands, alternately stroking the sides of the head with them. The ears are not massaged.
• 2. Then proceed to stroking the frontal-parietal and occipital zones of the head.
• 3. Further, periodic pressure is produced, which is performed with the bases of the palms, pads and phalanges of the fingers clenched into a fist. Movements are performed simultaneously from different sides.
• 4. Then proceed to rubbing. There are several types: rectilinear, circular and spiral. This movement is performed with the fingertips, consistently pressing on the scalp and slightly stretching it, moving it in different directions.
• 5. Make light strokes again.
• 6. Then kneading is performed. To do this, use the base of the palm to lightly press on the scalp and move it to the side.
• 7. The next stage of scalp massage is tapping. It is performed with the pads of four fingers of both hands.
• 8. After that, they again go to light stroking.

Having beautiful and healthy hair is not only a natural desire of every person, but also a requirement of modern fashion. Hair can be thick or thin, thin or bouncy, wavy or straight. But they must be clean and well-groomed. Correct shampooing helps to achieve this.

Hair washing is used in hairdressing salons for almost any service. If you don’t wash your hair regularly, the sweat and oil released will mix with skin flakes and dirt, creating a fertile ground for pathogenic bacteria, which can lead to various skin diseases. All types of hairdressing, with the exception of hair dyeing with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic, easily takes one shape or another, is highly stretched and does not break.

Shampooing has three purposes:

• hygienic - removing dirt from the surface of hair and skin;
• deformation - removing traces of the previous hairstyle;
• preparatory - softening the outer scaly layer of the hair.

Hair washing in hairdressing salons can be done in two ways - with the head tilted forward and with the head tilted back. In modern salons and hairdressing salons, the second method is used more often.

When washed with tilting the head forward no special devices required - the client tilts his head over the sink. The head is washed with shampoo, choosing for this purpose the most suitable for this type of hair.

When using the second method with tilting the head back a special sink with a recess is used. The notch in the sink makes it possible to firmly press the client's neck against it, so that water or hair treatment compounds do not get on the clothes.

Depending on the type and amount of inorganic compounds, water is soft and hard. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds (in particular, calcium salts), so the shampoo lathers very well in it. Hard water contains a lot of inorganic compounds, so the amount of foam in the shampoo is reduced. You can soften hard water by adding baking soda. The favorable temperature for shampooing is 34 - 39 ° C.

The choice of shampoo. When choosing a shampoo, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of hair. For many years, soap has remained the main cleansing ingredient in shampoos. But it had a number of disadvantages, such as poor lathering in hard water and matt build-up on the hair. As a result, instead of soap, surfactants began to be used in shampoos, which give abundant lather in water of any hardness and are easily removed by rinsing without leaving a dull bloom on the hair.

The search for new hair care products over the past decade has led to significant improvements in hair quality. The main purpose of shampoos is to remove impurities from the hair and scalp. It should be noted that most modern shampoos contain some kind of conditioning additive.

The modern development of new shampoos takes into account the fact that hair is washed today much more often than a few years ago; this stimulates the development of mild shampoos with a pH close to that of the scalp and hair (5.5 - 6.0).

By appointment, there are several types of shampoos:

• ordinary - most often require the use of others cosmetics... As a rule, these are detergents for different types hair (dry, oily, normal);
• special - usually soft; they can be used every day. They improve the appearance of the hair, do not irritate the scalp, as they have a neutral pH level, give the hair shine and silkiness;
• medicinal - intended for especially sensitive and damaged hair and hair with dandruff. They are injected with special medicinal preparations;
• special purpose - used before or after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize oxidant residues, strengthen hair and give it strength, close cuticle scales, preserve the color of dyed hair.

Technology for performing shampooing. Before washing your hair, you need to prepare materials for washing and hairdressing linen, wash your hands, invite the client to a chair. The client is covered with a towel, tightly wrapped around the neck, and then the hair is carefully combed. Brushing your hair before washing provides a more even distribution detergents over the entire surface of the hair and scalp and makes it easier to comb the hair after washing. Also, in the process of combing, the type of hair and its condition are determined, which makes it possible to more accurately select the necessary preparations for washing hair. Hair swollen from water and detergents loses approximately half of its strength to mechanical stress. Consequently, such hair requires more careful handling. It is especially important to remember this when treating naturally weak hair, as it can be easily damaged after washing. Hair that is well combed before washing is easy to comb after this procedure.

After the hair has been combed, the client is invited to the sink. To prevent water from getting on clothes, the visitor should firmly press the neck against the cut-out of the sink. Hair is thoroughly moistened with water, after which shampoo is applied. It should be borne in mind that cold shampoo causes discomfort, so it is better to apply the detergent to the hair from the palm of your hand.

Applying the detergent to the head, you should evenly distribute it over the entire head with a light circular rubbing with your fingertips, trying to cover with your fingers as much of the scalp as possible at the same time. With the appearance of soapy foam, the hair is rinsed with water, and the soaping operation is repeated if necessary. If your hair is heavily soiled, you can use a deep cleanser shampoo.

Remove foam from hair by rinsing thoroughly with water. For one washing operation in the women's room, 20-25 ml of shampoo is required, in the men's room - 8-10 ml.

Further hair treatment depends on what kind of operation follows the shampooing and what kind of detergent was used. If the hair has been exposed to chemical attack, then for better combing of the hair, you must apply a small amount of medicated balm. Hair shine depends on the condition of its outer scaly layer. The tighter the scales are pressed against each other, the better the hair shine. When using the balm, the outer layer of the hair is compacted, the irregularities are smoothed, which further facilitates combing and does not lead to mechanical injury to the hair. The frequency of shampooing depends on the condition of the hair and whether the scalp is oily or dry.

Hair Drying

Hair drying is an obligatory final step in almost all types of visitor services, especially in women's lounges. The need for drying hair sometimes arises during a particular hair treatment operation. However, the main purpose of drying is to fix the shape that was given to the hair when wet. The quality of styling depends on how well the hair has dried, i.e. the final look and the relative durability of the hairstyle.

Wet hair is very malleable (pliable) and quite easily takes shape with a styling or curling tool. When dry, their elasticity is restored, and the hair is able to maintain the shape given to it in a wet state for a long time. Hair drying is carried out using special devices (dryers).

Air styling... Hair styling with a brush and hair dryer is carried out depending on the length of the hair.

Hairdrying to lift the roots using a flat skeletal brush is called bombing. It is used in both men's and women's halls when performing everyday evening and model hairstyles.

The order of operations is as follows:

• the strand is grasped with a brush at the root, against hair growth, for maximum lift. A stream of air is directed to the strand tangentially to the head and the hair formed by the hall is fixed. Allow this section of the strand to cool on the brush until it dries completely;
• the entire strand along the length is pulled with a brush, directing the stream of the hair dryer in the direction of the lines of the conceived hairstyle. After that, take out the brush from the dried strand of hair;
• in a similar way, they continue to perform styling in the rest of the head, gradually moving from the occipital zone to the frontal zone.

With a round brush, shape the ends of the hair or straighten curly hair... This styling method is called brushing , it only applies to the women's gym.

It is convenient to style hair of any length with a hairdryer. Hairstyles from short hair will be fuller and last longer if the hair is moistened at the roots with gel, liquid varnish or styling foam.

Styling with a hairdryer requires special care. It is necessary to dry your hair very carefully, trying to ensure that the already dried hair does not come into contact with wet hair; clearly work out all the details, while simultaneously creating a volumetric shape of the hairstyle and making sure that the air jet does not burn the skin. For this, it is recommended to direct the air stream along a tangent line to the head, from the roots to the ends of the strand. After styling, the hair is combed with a wide-toothed comb.

Using a comb, flat brush and hairdryer, you can create waves. To do this, the comb is held perpendicular to the separated strand, the teeth of the brush are inserted into the hair at a distance of two or three fingers' width and slightly move it to the right. This is how the first wave is formed. Then the comb is turned with its teeth upward, tilted towards itself and dried with a stream of air, directing it to the left. The second wave is obtained in the same way, changing the direction of the brush and hair dryer. The comb is moved to the left by 1 cm and turned towards itself. Dry the hair with a blow dryer directed to the right side.

You can start styling from the parietal zone of the head or from the parting. The brush is held parallel to the head, grabbing a strand with it, the hair is lifted at the roots and slightly turned towards itself, after which the brush is moved away from the parting, gradually drying the hair along the entire brush. This technique is repeated several times to give the hair the desired shape.

You can wind long strands on a round brush and dry each strand first from the outside, and then from inside... To do this, comb out a strand with the left hand, slightly twisting the brush, as a result of which the hair is well fixed on the brush, taking the shape of a curl. In this case, the hair will bend down nicely without giving the impression of being rolled on curlers.

Hair washing in hairdressing salons is done in two ways: tilting the head forward or backward.

When washing the head tilted forward, no special tools are required - the client tilts his head over the sink. It is necessary to protect the eyes with a tissue so that various chemicals do not get into them, as well as to protect the colored eyebrows and eyelashes from water. This method of shampooing is more often used in men's rooms, as well as in those hairdressing salons where there are no special devices for shampooing the second way.

When using the second method, a special device (wing) or a sink with a recess is used. A notch in the wing or shell allows the neck to be pressed tightly against the neck to prevent water or hair treatments from getting on the clothes. This method is currently used more often.

There are three types of shampooing: 1) soap or shampoo, 2) henna, and 3) lecithin emulsion.

Washing your hair with soap or shampoo can be either an independent operation or an integral part of washing your hair with henna and an emulsion with lecithin.

Before you start washing your hair, you need to prepare soap or shampoo, citric or acetic acid, in the absence of hot water, heat the water to the desired temperature. The most favorable water temperature for shampooing is 34–45 ° C.

The client is covered with a towel tightly around the neck, after which the hair is carefully combed. Brushing your hair before washing provides a more even distribution of detergent over the entire surface of the hair and scalp and makes it easier to comb the hair after washing.

Hair swollen from water and detergents loses almost half of its strength to mechanical stress. Consequently, such hair requires more careful handling. It is especially important to remember this when treating naturally weak hair, as it can be easily damaged after washing.

Hair that is well combed before washing is easy to comb after this procedure. Before shampooing, the hair can be brushed with any comb, while after shampooing, only a non-metallic comb should be used, since it is easier to damage the hair weakened by washing with a metal comb.

After thoroughly combing the hair, the master tightly presses the visitor's neck against the cutout of the special device (when washing the head in the second way) or tilts his head forward over the sink (when washing the first way), having previously covered his face with a sterile napkin. The hair is moistened with water, after which liquid soap or shampoo is applied. It should be borne in mind that cold liquid soap or shampoo causes discomfort, so it is better to apply the detergent to your hair from the palm of your hand.

When using concentrated shampoos, before applying to the hair (or beforehand), they are diluted in 8-10 parts of warm water. The use of concentrated shampoos without first diluting them in water can lead to scalp disease with seborrhea. Applying detergents to the head, you should evenly distribute them over the entire surface of the head with a light circular rubbing with fingertips, trying to cover as much of the hairline with your fingers as possible.

With the appearance of soapy foam, the hair is rinsed with water and the soaping operation is repeated, since after the first soaping, only the main part of the dirt is removed from the hair and scalp. If there is too much dust and other mechanical impurities on the hair or an excessive amount of grease, the first time the detergent is applied to the hair, it will not be possible to obtain copious lather. In this case, it is necessary to apply the detergent composition twice in order to remove the main dirt and get a good stable foam. Profuse foam formation is a sign that your hair is clean.

Lathering your hair twice is usually enough to rinse your hair well. In rare cases, there is a need for a third soaping. Remove soap suds by rinsing hair thoroughly with water. For one washing operation in the women's room, 20-25 ml of liquid soap is required, in the men's room - 8-10 ml.

Further hair treatment depends on what kind of operation follows the shampooing and what kind of detergent was used. After washing with liquid soap, rinse your hair with acidified water. This procedure is necessary to neutralize the alkali that is present in the soap, as well as to give the hair a shine.

Hair shine depends on the condition of its outer scaly layer. The tighter the scales are pressed against each other, the better the hair shine. When the alkali present in the soap is neutralized with a weak acid solution, the outer scaly layer of the hair is compacted. Therefore, if, after shampooing, hair processing operations involving the use of preparations (for curling or dyeing) are performed, then rinsing them with acidified water is not worth it, since this procedure will strengthen the hair and the effect of the compounds on them will be difficult.

Thus, by rinsing the hair with acidified water after washing, one achieves not only neutralization of alkali, but also strengthening of the hair structure, as well as giving it a beautiful appearance.

In the case of using alkali-free shampoos for shampoos, there is no need to neutralize the alkali, therefore, you should not rinse your hair with acidified water.

The neutralization of alkali with a solution of citric or acetic acid is carried out as follows: two to three tablespoons of 8% vinegar or 2 g citric acid bred in

1 liter of warm water and rinse hair with this solution on all parts of the head.

How often you wash your hair depends on its condition and whether your scalp is oily or dry. In normal condition of hair and skin, the head should be washed every 6-7 days, with very oily skin this interval can be reduced to 3-4 days, while dry, on the contrary, can be increased to 8-10 days.

The use of henna when shampooing has a positive effect on hair growth, cleanses the scalp from dandruff and gives light golden tones to hair of light tones. Therefore, washing the head with henna is quite widely used in hairdressing practice. To wash your hair, you need to prepare a henna solution: one operation requires 5–6 g of powder. Henna is released in bags of 25 g. Pour about a fourth of the bag into an enamel or porcelain bowl, mix the powder well and crush the lumps. Carefully pour 100 ml of hot water at a temperature of 80–85 ° C into a bowl with the powder, constantly stirring the liquid with a non-metallic stick. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no lumps form. As soon as the mass becomes homogeneous, stirring can be stopped. The client is covered with a peignoir and a plastic wrap, on top of which a towel is placed. It will trap the henna solution flowing down the polyethylene cape.

Then the client is washed with soap or shampoo. After shampooing, you need to lightly squeeze your hair with your hands to remove excess water from it. Now you can start wetting your hair with the prepared henna solution. During the time the hair is washed, the henna solution has time to cool down by 38–45 ° C.

It is better to wet the hair with henna solution on a special device (wing). To do this, it is necessary to slightly raise the client's head from the wing, leaving the neck tightly pressed against the cutout in it to avoid possible henna dripping onto the clothes. First, the back of the head is moistened with henna, including the hair along the line of its growth on the neck, and then, laying the head on the wing, and the scalp of the rest of the head. After wetting all hairs with henna, gently massage the scalp with your fingertips. The exposure time for henna on the hair is 5-15 minutes. After that, you need to rinse your hair with warm water without soap, dry it with a towel and comb.

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PLAN STUDY THEME

" Hair care"

Washing head

1. Purpose of shampooing

   Types of washing

   Technology for performing hygienic shampooing

Drying and combing hair

Head massage

3.1 Purpose of head massage

3.2 Indications for massage

3.3 Contraindications to massage

3.4 Massage technology

Hair care products

4.1 Choosing a shampoo

4.2 Preparations for improving hair structure after shampooing

Having beautiful and healthy hair is not only a natural desire of every person, but also a requirement of modern fashion. Hair beauty is impossible without careful systematic care. Hair should always be clean and well-groomed.

WASHING HEAD

Shampooing is important hygiene procedure... All types of hairdressing work, with the exception of hair dyeing with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic and easily takes on one shape or another, is highly stretched and does not break. In addition, shampooing is necessary to remove the grease secreted by sebaceous glands scalp. If you don’t wash your hair regularly, the secreted sweat and grease, mixing with skin flakes and dirt, will create favorable conditions for pathogenic bacteria that cause skin diseases.

Shampooing haunts three goals :

removal of dirt from hair (hygienic);

removal of traces of the previous laying (deformation);

loosening of the outer layer of the hair (preparatory).

Hygienic purpose shampooing - removing dust deposits, as well as fat secreted by the sebaceous glands of the head. Oily hair is difficult to process, since fat, covering the scaly layer of hair with a thin coating, closes the pores and inhibits the penetration of coloring, curling and styling products into the hair. V in this case defatting hair can be considered not only hygienic, but also a preparatory operation.

Wet hair stretches easily and gets the desired shape. This physical property hair. It is this property that underlies deformation target shampooing. Often, hair retains traces of previous styling or a certain shape from hats, and therefore, to eliminate such hair defects, you must first wash and comb.

Preparatory goal shampooing consists in softening the outer scaly layer when exposed to detergents that facilitate their quick and unhindered interaction with other chemicals.

There are also three type of shampooing :

hygienic - using regular shampoo;

curative- using medicinal products;

dry- using dry shampoo.

Most often, hygienic shampooing is performed. As you know, water has cleansing properties. For hygienic washing, shampoo is necessary only to increase the effectiveness of its effect. Shampoos contain substances that can remove dirt, grease and styling products from the hair. The sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands does not dissolve in water, but under the action of shampoo it coagulates into tiny droplets and is washed out with water.

The frequency of shampooing depends on the condition of your hair and whether your skin is oily or dry. The general rule of thumb is to wash your hair as it gets dirty. The existing opinion that frequent washing increases their fat content is incorrect. Very greasy hair you can even wash it every day, but use a mild shampoo that does not dry out your hair (does not leach it out).

Water temperature and quality. To get a good result, it is very important to choose the right shampoo and prepare the water.

Depending on the type and content of inorganic compounds, a distinction is made between soft and hard water ... Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds (in particular, calcium salts), so the shampoo lathers very well in it. In hard water, on the contrary, there are many inorganic compounds, so the soapiness of the shampoo decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding baking soda to 1 liter of water ¼ teaspoon of baking soda). You can get softer water by filtration or boiling.

It is a misconception that hair is better washed in hot water. The only thing that you will achieve by washing your hair with hot water is increased grease and gray coating on the hair, which forms due to curdled shampoo.

The optimum water temperature for washing hair is at room temperature. That is, the scalp should feel such water as slightly cool. The favorable temperature for shampooing is 34 -39 C.

At the end of the rinse, it is helpful to rinse your hair with cold water to add shine to your hair.

If you have the time and desire to pamper your hair, then wash it with boiled water, and if possible, it is better with distilled water.

The choice of shampoo. To keep your hair intact and give it shine, you need to be very careful when choosing a shampoo, especially if you wash your hair frequently. Too strong or incorrectly selected shampoo can damage your hair. Sparing, soft drugs, on the contrary, due to their healing properties improve the condition of the scalp and eliminate damage to the hair structure. Before choosing a shampoo, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of hair.

Hygienic shampoo technology

Preparatory work

Before washing your hair, the master must do the following:

to prepare workplace, be sure to wash the sink;

invite a client to a chair;

conduct a preliminary conversation;

wash your hands and disinfect the instrument;

comb your hair thoroughly in order to detect the presence of diseases, as well as to determine the type of hair and their condition;

cover the client with hairdressing linen (use two towels and a napkin, while one towel is placed on the shoulders, and the second is wiped off the hair);

pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup;

adjust the temperature of the water (the optimum temperature for washing hair is 37-40 ° C).

The hairdresser uses two washing method hair: with tilting the head forward and head tilted back... When washing hair with the head tilted forward, it is necessary to offer the client a sterile napkin to protect the face. When using the second method, with the head tilted back, a special sink with a recess is used. The notch in the sink makes it possible to firmly press the client's neck against it so that water and hair products do not get on the clothes.

The sequence of shampooing

Wet hair thoroughly with water.

Required amount Pour the shampoo into the palm of your hand for more convenient distribution on the hair, as well as for warming.

Distribute the shampoo evenly on the hair, starting from the roots.

Lather the shampoo on the hair in a circular motion, while the fingertips should move from the edge of the hairline to the highest point of the head.

Rinse off the shampoo and then apply a second time (hygienic hair washing is performed twice).

Final work

At the final stage of shampooing, you must:

carry out a neutralization reaction on the hair (application of drugs to improve the hair structure);

wipe off hair light wet movements;

comb your hair starting from the ends;

offer additional services (drying, styling, haircut, etc.);

take off hairdressing underwear.

HAIR DRYING

Hair drying is an obligatory final step in almost all types of visitor services, especially in women's lounges. The need for drying arises sometimes during a hair treatment operation. However, the main purpose of drying is to fix that shape. That was given to hair wet.

As mentioned above, when wet, hair is very vulnerable and easily damaged. Therefore, you need to handle them delicately, that is, do not rub against each other with force and in no case immediately comb them.

If you do not want to damage your hair, then after rinsing it should be gently blotted and wrapped in a clean towel. When the water from the hair is absorbed into the towel, it must be removed and gently, avoiding vigorous movements, wipe the hair along the entire length, moving from roots to ends. Then the hair must be carefully divided into strands with your fingers and wait until they dry.

Important! If you still need to comb your hair, use a wooden or horny comb with sparse, rounded teeth. When doing this, comb your hair very gently and gently. If nodules form, then they should not be torn apart with a comb, but carefully untangled with your fingers.

It is not recommended to blow-dry your hair every time you wash. A hairdryer is definitely a necessary and useful invention. But, nevertheless, it is also harmful. Hot air it dries out the hair and damages its structure, which makes the hair brittle. Therefore, it is better to dry your hair. naturally... If there is no time for this, then try to minimize the harm caused by blow-drying. Namely: never dry completely wet hair - wait a little while it dries up by itself; use the "cold" drying mode; do not bring the hair dryer to your hair closer than 30 cm.

Never go to bed with a wet head. During the night, the skin cools down, normal blood circulation is disrupted: the hair begins to experience a lack of oxygen and nutrients necessary for its growth and development.

Wet hair is very malleable (pliable) and quite easily takes shape with the help of styling and curling tools. When dry, their elasticity is restored, and the hair is able to maintain the shape given to it in a wet state for a long time.

Hair drying in a hairdressing salon can be done using special devices - dryers. At the same time, to give the hair the desired shape and volume, they are pre-wound on curlers.

Drywars- devices for quick hair drying. They come in several varieties. According to the method of fastening, dryers can be both stationary and mobile. Stationary dryers are wall-mounted. Mobile ones are convenient in that they, with the help of a tripod on wheels, can be transferred to any place in the cabin. The presence of such functions as a regulator of the temperature of the supplied air or a timer, by which it is easy to monitor the drying time, are very convenient and are indispensable in large beauty salons. The power of the air supply is also very important: dryers can be either single-speed or variable speed.

How your hair is styled depends on how dry your hair is. On undried hair, the hairstyle will not last long, since they have not fully restored their elasticity. With severe dryness, the hair loses its shine, becomes brittle, and the hairstyle also does not last long. Therefore, you need to limit yourself to such a drying time, during which all moisture applied to them has time to evaporate.

Determining the right time to dry your hair is very difficult. Therefore, firstly, the hygroscopicity of the hair should be taken into account, i.e. their ability to absorb a certain amount of moisture. The more hygroscopic the hair, the more water it absorbs and, therefore, the longer it takes to dry. Drying time also depends on the length of the hair. Hair 12 - 15 cm long can be dried, depending on their properties, in 10 - 25 minutes. Drying hair with a length of 30 cm and more takes much more time - 30 - 40 minutes.

Such a difference in the drying time of hair of different thickness, length and properties is very significant. Therefore, it is important for a hairdresser to be able to determine the required minimum drying time for a given hair with an accuracy of 5 minutes in order to avoid too much drying or under-drying of the hair. In the latter case, the hair is simply dried. When overdrying, the hair is irreparably damaged - they become brittle, lose shine.

Before we put the client under the dryer. It is necessary to adjust the temperature with a thermostat (50-60 C) and set the time switch for the minimum number of minutes required to dry the hair of this group. After the set time has elapsed, a control check of the drying quality is done by spinning two or three curls. If your hair is slightly damp, you can extend the drying time by 5-10 minutes. The curlers should not be unwound immediately after drying. You need to keep them wound for some time so that they cool down. This is necessary because heated hair does not have sufficient elasticity due to the effect of elevated temperature. The stratum corneum softens from heating, as a result of which the curls can unwind by half, even under the influence of their own mass.

HAIR COMBAT

Combing is a mandatory procedure for all types of hair treatment without exception, even completely different from each other. Brushing allows you to perform the following important tasks:

eliminate tangled hair;

ensure the parallelism of the location of the hair in relation to each other, which is very important when winding it on curlers or bobbins;

give hair the right direction;

determine the length of the hair of each or individual sections of the scalp;

Brushing your hair is also beneficial in terms of hygiene. In the process of brushing, as a result of scalp massage, blood flow to the hair roots increases, which has a beneficial effect on their vital functions. There is an even distribution of sebum along the entire length of the hair.

It is advisable to start combing the hair from the ends, gradually moving upward. If the hair is very tangled, it is necessary to divide it into thin strands and, holding it with your left hand, very carefully comb it with a comb with rare teeth.

For combing short hair, you do not need to divide it into sections. In this case, brushing is done with light short movements, holding the scalp of the combed hair section with your hand. Only after making sure that there are no tangled areas of hair, they start combing the entire scalp.

The movements of the hairdresser should be light, neat, unhurried. Special attention requires combing damp hair, dyed or bleached, as well as hair that is systematically curled.

Carefully consider the choice of comb. Good combs are made from natural materials or high quality plastic. It is best if they are of medium hardness, flexible and durable. The surface of the comb should be smooth without jagging and the teeth should not be too sharp.

HEAD MASSAGE

Scalp massage stimulates blood circulation and metabolism, improves nourishment of hair roots, enhances hair growth, normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands, makes the scalp soft and elastic. Thanks to the massage, the effect of medicinal preparations is enhanced (the drug is applied to clean and damp hair, then the head is massaged).

After the massage, muscle relaxation is invariably felt and even mood improves.

Indications for massage :

strengthening hair roots;

prevention of hair loss;

dysfunction of the sebaceous glands;

general relaxation of the client.

Contraindications to massage :

the presence of skin diseases;

severe hair loss;

fungal and pustular diseases;

acute head injuries;

hypertension;

nervous diseases.

General massage rules ... The main massage movements are: stroking, kneading, rubbing and vibration. According to the technology, head massage begins with light warming movements, the strength of which gradually increases. The massage ends with the same gentle and careful stroking. At the same time, it is important that the patient is comfortably positioned during the procedure, and his head and body are relaxed.

The basis of manual head massage is circular movements that are performed with half-clenched palms with outstretched fingers. Wherein thumb serves as a support for the hand placed on the surface, and the rest perform massaging movements.

Do not rub the skin superficially, but press it against the bone and only then move it in circular or straight movements, as if probing, kneading and rubbing, feeling the bone all the time.

Great importance has a rhythm. You cannot start the massage very energetically and cut it off suddenly.

The massage is performed on clean, damp hair, always with the use of medicinal preparations. Nowadays, all companies producing professional perfumery produce preparations for the care and intensive treatment of hair. Special knowledge is required to use these drugs.

There are a myriad of types of massage, and, usually, a good specialist will always be able to choose the type of massage that suits you individually for you.

Consider the execution technology classic head massage ... The duration is 10-15 minutes.

The head massage technology includes the following movements.

1st movement Intermittent kneading in the region of the eyebrows (Fig. a). Eight light presses are made in the direction from the bridge of the nose to the temporal cavities large and forefinger... Repeat three times.

2nd movement Continuous spiral rubbing of the temporal region and behind it, which ends with rubbing of the mastoid process (Fig. b). Four fingers work. Repeat three times.

3rd movement Intermittent stroking of the frontal muscle (Fig. v). Four movements are performed with two fingers from the eyebrows to the hairline on the forehead, from the bridge of the nose to the middle of the eyebrows, from the outer corner of the eye to the curl of the auricle; finish by kneading the area under the lobe of the auricles. Repeat three times.

4th movement Vertical stroking of the frontal and temporal muscles (Fig. G). Perform with three fingers from the brow ridges to the hairline on the forehead with two hands alternately: from the middle of the forehead, first to the right, and then to left side, and back. Having performed this stroking three times, for the fourth time it is continued from the middle of the forehead to the temporal hollows, where light pressure is applied.

5th movement Wave-like longitudinal stroking of the frontal muscle (Fig. d). Perform with three fingers - first with the right hand from the right temporal cavity to the left temple and back, and then with the left hand from the left temporal cavity to the right temple and back. Repeat three times.

6th movement Rubbing the frontal and temporal muscles (Fig. e). Perform with both hands simultaneously from the temporal cavities to the center of the forehead along the hairline with longitudinal, transverse and circular movements. Repeat three times.

7th movement Superficial rubbing of the hair roots of the scalp (Fig. f). Produce eight radial partings from the edge hairline to the highest point of the head. The right half of the head is massaged with the right hand, and the left half with the left. In this case, the free hand supports the head. Do it once.

8th movement Deep rubbing of the scalp (Fig. s). Fingers of both hands wide apart are positioned above the auricles. By moving the fingers, the scalp is first displaced to the midline, and then back, i.e. rubbing in opposite directions. The same movements of the fingers of both hands are made from the forehead and the lower part of the head to the back of the head. Repeat three times.

9th movement Circular kneading of the occipital muscle (Fig. and). It is performed at the points shown in the figure. Skin movements are performed clockwise and vice versa. thumbs two hands at the same time. Repeat three times

10th movement Superficial circular kneading of the scalp (Fig. To). The terminal phalanges of the four fingers make circular movements of the skin along eight radial partings. WITH right side- with the right hand, with the left - with the left. The free hand supports the head. Performed once

11th movement Light vibration of the scalp (Fig. l). It is performed in the same way as in item 10, only with one hand. Do it once.

12th movement Stroking the scalp with widely spaced fingers of both hands (Fig. m). Movements are made from the forehead to the back of the head through the crown. Repeat three times.

After the massage, you need to rest for 10-15 minutes (even if you are going to go to shampooing).

Rice. Massage scheme

HAIR CARE

Shampoos. Shampoo is a foaming agent for hair and scalp. The shampoo is designed to remove oil and dead cells from the hair and scalp. Everything else is the function of conditioners, balms, etc.

All shampoos are based on surfactants that cleanse the hair. In addition to surfactants, shampoos contain substances for hair care and protection, functional additives, preservatives, active medicinal ingredients, and foaming agents.

Requirements for shampoos.

have a good cleansing (washing) effect;

to give a voluminous creamy foam in water of any hardness;

well distributed through the hair and easy to rinse off;

be soft on the scalp and the mucous membrane of the eyes;

make hair shiny and healthy;

have nice smell and color

provide a conditioning effect, i.e. easy combing of hair when wet and dry;

have a pH close to the pH of the scalp and hair (approximately pH 5.5), except for special-purpose shampoos.

Shampoo classification

The number of shampoos is so great. That it became necessary to divide them according to certain criteria.

Shampoos are distinguished by outward appearance: liquid, creamy, jelly, dry, concentrated.

By appointment, depending on the type of hair: for normal, dry, oily, mixed, damaged, curly, any type, etc.

By belonging to any sex or age characteristic: men, women, family, children.

Treatment-and-prophylactic: against dandruff, seborrhea, etc.

According to the additional effect provided: coloring, protective, moisturizing, restoring, etc.

In order to understand that this shampoo is not suitable for you, one or two use is enough. But in order to come to the conclusion that this shampoo is for you, you need to regularly use it for at least 2-3 weeks.

Preparations for improving the structure of hair after shampooing.

There are two groups of post-wash hair care products:

Washable products;

Indelible products.

Group washable products for hair care after washing includes all types of rinses or conditioners, from liquid milk, conditioners, balms, creams for combing hair with different textures and ending with liquid gels and masks. The main purpose of such products is to compensate for the adverse effects on the hair and give them properties such as ease of combing, elasticity, shine and softness.

The principle of operation of rinses, conditioners and balms is the same: the special regenerating substances (ceramides and proteins) included in their composition replace the natural "glue". As a result, ruffled scales fall into place and form a single smooth surface.

The difference between conditioners and rinses from balms is only in the amount of these regenerating substances. There are fewer of them in conditioners, so they can only protect hair from environmental influences. Conditioners (liquid and creamy) are used to make the hair easier to comb and give it shine. They make hair more manageable, help to style it even without styling products. Also, conditioners give hair shine, maintain the color of dyed hair, and protect it from the harmful effects of the environment.

The conditioner "closes" the scales, but does not nourish the hair, but as if envelops them with a protective film. This is important for hair, which is often blow-dried and treated with other heating tools. Another function of the air conditioner is to remove static electricity. Conditioners and rinses are applied to wet, freshly washed strands and left, as a rule, for 1-2 minutes, after which they are thoroughly rinsed with warm water.

Balms are more active. They allow not only to protect, but also to restore, "repair" the damage in the hair structure, take care of the scalp. That is why they are rubbed into the skin or applied first to the roots, and then distributed along the entire length of the hair. The exposure time is usually quite long - 10-15 minutes, but there are also fast-acting products (manufacturers know how little free time modern women have).

Nowadays, industrialists often combine these two products and offer us conditioners that do more than just a protective function. They nourish, moisturize, strengthen hair, stimulate its growth, improve structure, remove static electricity, allow to increase volume, help to cope with tangled curls, give a healthy shine, splendor, elasticity, firmness. Hair becomes manageable and easy to comb. There are special products for the care of colored and highlighted hair - they heal them after exposure to the dye and help keep the color longer. The same applies to products that maintain hair after perm.

Hair masks are one of the most popular products intensive recovery hair structure. Most often, nourishing and moisturizing masks are used; masks for colored hair and hair after a perm. The mask is used no more than once a week. It is applied to washed, damp hair for 30-35 minutes, then rinsed thoroughly. The mask can be applied to more short term- for 3-5 minutes. In this case, it works like a balm. The composition of the masks can be anything, but you should pay attention to the following ingredients. Aloe Vera - excellent hydration, suitable for all hair types. Chamomile, mint, eucalyptus soothe, relieve irritation - for sensitive scalp. Rice protein restores the structure of severely damaged hair.

Indelible products for hair care after washing are represented by lotions, mousses, conditioning creams and cosmetic hair serums. Light in consistency, these products create a film on wet hair; give shine, volume, remove static electricity, maintain the shape of the hairstyle.