Since ancient times things self made were highly valued and in high demand. Everyone sought to learn some kind of handicraft in order to provide themselves and their family and friends with exclusive clothes, fakes or original items interior

Hand knitting is one of the most common types of needlework. Possessing such skill, you can look stylish and fashionable without any special financial expenses. Scientists say that this is not its only advantage: while knitting, a person calms down, relaxes and is distracted from disturbing thoughts.

This article contains sequential lessons that describe in detail how to learn to knit. For beginning needlewomen, it will be a real help.

Lesson #1: Where to start?

For those who are just beginning to master the knitting technique, it is necessary to familiarize themselves with the tools with which the process is directly carried out.

The first thing to start knitting any knitted product is a set of loops with knitting needles. In order to know how to choose the right ones for a certain type of mating, you need to understand the main types.

Standard (ordinary) knitting needles

This type is used for all types of knitting, except circular. They are made from lightweight materials such as plastic, metal, aluminum, wood. They differ in thickness, from 1 mm to 25.5 mm, and in length. They have one working edge, and on the other there is a tip that acts as a limiter.

Stocking needles

Used for circular knitting, in particular socks, since it is not recommended to knit them with 2 knitting needles. They are sold in a set of 5 pieces. They have two working edges. The knitting process is carried out as follows: the product is placed in an equal number of loops on 4 knitting needles, and subsequent rows are knitted with the 5th.

Knitting needles for braid and braid patterns

Due to the bend in the middle of the knitting needle, their use greatly simplifies the process of crossing stitches. Their diameter can be 2-4 mm, selected according to the thickness of the yarn.

Marking paper clip

It is used to control the number of loops or mark a specific place on the product.

Circular knitting needles

They consist of 2 working tips connected by a metal or silicone line. They are used for certain patterns, circular knitting, or when the fabric is wide enough.

Pin

It is used to remove loops that at a certain stage do not need to be knitted. The dimensions of such a device can be different (10-15 cm).

Lesson No. 2. Introduction to types of yarn

Opening fashion magazines, you can see that clothes, depending on the seasonal purpose, are knitted from different types yarn. Seeing such beautiful things, every second person asks the question: “How to learn to knit?” For beginner knitters, a lot of information has been published with detailed step by step description. However, in order to create a truly beautiful and original item, you will need to choose the right yarn for it.

Wool thread

Refers to natural types. Sheep wool is used to make it. Features a wide selection color range. It is mainly used to knit winter items and is suitable for any type of pattern.

Cotton yarn

Ideal for any type of knitting. It is pleasant to the touch and does not cause allergies. A product made from this thread has a chic look.

Melange yarn

It consists of a percentage of synthetic and natural threads. Thanks to its texture, the products are lush and airy. Looks great on three-dimensional drawings.

Mohair

Designed for knitting warm items. This thread is very fluffy, so it is not recommended to use it for those things that are directly adjacent to the body. Large drawings are most relevant for her.

Fancy yarn

It is made by following a certain technology, which consists of combining threads of different texture, color and quality.

Lesson No. 3. Casting the first row

When starting to knit any fabric, you will need to make a set of loops with knitting needles. To do this, make a loop of yarn, which is draped over the thumb. One end of the thread passes through the index, and the other simply goes down. After this, both threads are fixed with the remaining three fingers. Having thus secured the yarn, loops are made using a knitting needle, from which the fabric will be knitted directly.

1st step

2nd step

3rd step

4th step

5th step

Lesson No. 4. Knit loop

Having learned how to cast on the first row, you can proceed to the main type of knitting - facial loops. They are fundamental to any drawing. In order to make a front loop, the thread is knitted with knitting needles in a certain way. To do this, you need to hook the loop onto the back wall with a free knitting needle and pull the working thread through it. If the drawing indicates the method of knitting behind the front wall, then a similar manipulation is performed, only the upper part of the loop is grabbed with a knitting needle.

Lesson No. 5. Purl loop

The next stage in mastering knitting techniques is purl stitches with knitting needles. They can be knitted in two ways - behind the front and back wall. The more common type is considered classic. To do this, the working thread is thrown over the fabric, the front part of the loop is grabbed with a knitting needle, through which the thread is pulled, which forms a new purl loop.

Lesson No. 6. Yarn over

Yarn over - air loop. It is formed by throwing on a working thread, holding it with a finger, and the subsequent knit stitch is knitted with knitting needles as usual. On the side where the purl loops are, knit a yarn over with knitting needles without twisting, so that a hole is formed. This knitting technique is used to create a product with an openwork pattern.

Lesson No. 7. Edge and edge loops

When knitting any fabric, you need to pay attention to the first and last loops. They occupy a central place in the manufacture of quality products. Thanks to a certain technique, the canvas has smooth and unstretched edges. Edge and edge loops are knitted in the following order. At the beginning of the row, the first one is removed without knitting, and at the end the last one is knitted with a knit stitch.

Lesson No. 8. How to knit elastic with knitting needles? Types and description

There are many different ways to knit elastic. As a rule, almost any product begins with it, so it is very important to learn how to knit it correctly and beautifully. The main condition for it is not to stretch the loops in order to maintain good density.

So, how to knit an elastic band with knitting needles, let’s look at simple options.

Elastic band 1 x 1

The simplest type. First row: alternate 1 knit stitch and 1 purl stitch. Subsequent rows are knitted according to the pattern.

Elastic band 2 x 2

It is knitted like the first option, only the row consists of 2 purl loops and 2 knit stitches.

Double elastic band is hollow

In order to knit it, you need to sequentially alternate 1 knit stitch, remove 1 loop without knitting. Knit like this on both sides of the product.

English gum 1 x 1

This option is more difficult for a beginner, but you can try.

An even number of loops are cast on the knitting needle. Next it is knitted as follows.

1st row: Knit 1, yarn over the next stitch and slip onto a working needle, alternating like this.

2nd row: a loop with a crochet is knitted, and the next one is yarn over and removed, repeat until the end.

3 throw: from the beginning of the pattern.

Lesson No. 9. How to learn to knit? For beginners: knitting a scarf

Having learned the basics of knitting, it’s time to try your hand at making a small accessory. You can already decide to knit a scarf for yourself or your family. Such a gift will be the most desirable for them. Any knitting patterns are suitable for it. Width is an individual value: if for a child, then 10-20 cm, for adults - from 15 cm. The length can vary from 1 m or more.

For a scarf, you can use threads of various thicknesses and colors, the main thing is that it is in harmony with the rest of your clothes.

Those that do not have a reverse side are better suited as a design.

An example of a simple scarf with a checkerboard pattern is given below.

Description:

The number of loops should be a multiple of 5, plus 2 edge loops.

1st row: 5 persons. p., 5 p., alternate to the end of the row, knit the last one.

2nd row and all even: according to the drawing.

3rd row: alternate knit 5, purl 5, edge knit.

5th row: knitted like the 3rd.

7th row: 5 purl, 5 knit, copied to the end of the row, the last edge.

9th, 11th rows: knit as 7th.

13th row: play from the 1st row.

Scheme of the "Chess" pattern

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Lesson No. 10. Diagrams and symbols

Any knitting patterns can have a description or diagram that tells you exactly how to knit this pattern. From the previous lesson you can see examples of descriptions and diagrams. However, in order to understand what is written, you need to familiarize yourself with the symbols and learn to read the diagrams correctly. At first glance, they seem incomprehensible, with some kind of squares, diamonds, arrows, triangles.

However, this complexity is deceptive; standard abbreviations are not difficult to understand. In any edition of a magazine or book there is always a “Conventions” item; as a rule, all abbreviations in the text and symbols used are deciphered there.

For example, the main ones are:

• persons - front loop;
• purl - purl loop.

Looking at the diagram under the pattern you like, you need to look for symbols. They may be printed at the end of the book or just below the diagram.

For example, it looks like this:

. - edge;
□ - purl loop;
■ - front loop;
▲ - 3 loops together;
Ώ - yarnover

Lesson No. 11. Patterns, diagrams and descriptions

We will describe simple patterns that need to be knitted; we will place the diagrams side by side for better perception. When trying to connect the proposed drawings, you need to try to understand as much as possible symbols, since the quality of the entire product will depend on this.

Pattern "Diamonds"

Scheme No. 1

19	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
17	□	■	□	□	■	□	□	□
15	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
13	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
11	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
9	□	■	□	■	■	□	□	□
7	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
5	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
3	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
1	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■

Description:

1st, 3rd, 5th rows: 6 p., 2 knits.

2-20th rows: according to the drawing.

7th row: k2, p4, k2, p2

9th row: P2, k1, p2, k2, p3

11th, 13th, 15th rows: 2 p., 2 knit., 4 p.

17th row: P1, k1, p2, k1, p3

19th row: k1, p4, k1, p2

21st row: repeat from the beginning.

For symbols for the diagrams, see lesson No. 10.

Star pattern

Description:

1st row: from 3 loops, knit 3 facial loops *, 1 knit.

2nd, 4th rows: out.

3rd row: 2 knits, from 3 loops 3 knits, 1 knit.

5th row: like 1st row.

*3 out of 3 loops - k1, yarn over, k1.

Pattern "Putanka"

3	□	■	□	■
2	■	□	■	□
1	□	■	□	■

Description:

1st row: P1, k1, duplicate to the end.

2nd row: K1, P1, alternate opposite to the previous row.

3rd row: repeat from the 1st row.

Now a frequently asked question is “How to learn to knit?” for beginners it will no longer be so scary and incomprehensible. If you follow the lessons provided exactly, you will have the opportunity to learn how to create original knitted masterpieces in a fairly short time.

How to knit loops with knitting needles

Do-it-yourself knitting differs from crocheting in that, firstly, there are other loops, and secondly, there are also different stitches, and the basis of knitting is two basic types of loops that have a different design, and are built on this design different loops and patterns. Therefore, some craftswomen prefer this type of knitting. Knitting with knitting needles with your own hands is not so hard work, the main thing is to have a lot of patience and learn the basic execution techniques and their derivatives.

Types of loops

The main or basic types of loops in hand knitting yourself are considered loops, which are called purl and knit. The purl loops are the wrong side of the product, and the front loops are its face. In addition to the main loops, there are also others:

• Edge. They can only be knitted in circular knitting, but if you are making a rectangular fabric, then you cannot do without them.
• Crossed. Since ancient times, such loops have been very popular. After all, the fabric that is knitted with such loops is very dense and retains its properties for a long time. appearance and is hard to deform.
• Decrease loop or decrease loop. This loop is needed to reduce loops in a row.
• Yarn over. Usually used for other openwork products.
• Extended loops can give knitting a more delicate look. Such loops are considered a type of slipped loops.
• Air loops are used to increase the length of the product by adding new loops; also thanks to them, you can make buttonholes.
• English. These loops are knit stitches, which are knitted in a different way - in English.
• Additional and double loops done when you need to increase the number of loops on the product.

How to knit a knit stitch with knitting needles

Knitting stitches

There are two ways to knit knit stitches with your own hands - behind the front and back wall.

1 way will show you how else you can make an English loop with knitting needles. For this method you need to do the following:

• lower the product down working thread and place it on the index finger of your left hand.
• pick up the loop with the right needle. In the direction from left to right.
• Next, grab the working thread on the left side in the same way, while holding the back wall of the loop, then pull the loop through it, which is located on the left knitting needle.

2 way . This method some call it continental, but you need to do it like this:

• Throw the working thread over the index finger of your left hand, and thus leave it behind the canvas.
• grab the loop on the left needle with right side behind the back wall and pull the working thread through it.

How to knit purl stitches with knitting needles

Purl loops

You need to make purl loops yourself in this way:

• throw on left knitting needle thread.
• on the right side, the right needle must be threaded under the front wall of the loop.
• correct thumb hand the working thread so that it is in front of the loop.
• Use your right knitting needle to lift the loop up a little, at the same time you need to grab the working thread clockwise and drag it through the wall of the loop.

How to knit edge stitches with knitting needles

To ensure that the edges of the fabric are neat and even, edge loops are used for this. These loops with your own hands can be divided into the first edge loop, with which you start the row, and the second loop, which ends the row.

There are many different ways knit edge loops, because it all depends on what kind of product you are knitting, because it can be made, for example, either convex in the form of a column of knots, or even in the form of a braid.

How to knit elongated loops with knitting needles

Elongated stitches are knitted very simply, and they can various lengths, depending on what kind of drawing you are doing:

• if you want to make a short loop, the length of which is one or two rows, then you need to remove the loop on the right needle untethered from the right needle, and then pull it up a little.
• In this principle, you will see how to make longer loops: put the knitting needle behind the wall of the loop in the direction from left to right, then throw the working thread several times on the edge of the knitting needle, forming turns in it. Next, pull the future elongated loop through the loop of the previous row. Depending on how high you need the elongated thread in the future, the number of turns will depend. The loop turns out higher when the number of turns increases.

Elongated loops with knitting needles

How to make a yarn over and chain stitch

Making a yarn over is very simple. While knitting, place the working thread on the right knitting needle in front of the knitted loop. In order to make a hole using a yarn over, in the next row, you need to knit it behind the back wall; if you want a closed yarn over, then knit it behind the front wall.

In order to knit air loops with your own hands, you need to throw the working thread over your finger so that it is shaped like a loop, then you need to transfer the thread to the right knitting needle and pull it up very carefully.

How to knit crossed stitches with knitting needles

These loops can be made not only using purl stitches, but also knit stitches. When you make purl crossed stitches, you must adhere to the following steps:

1. Throw the working thread over the top of the product onto the index finger of your left hand, so that the thread is above the desired loop.
2. in the direction from right to left, use the right knitting needle from below to pry the back wall of the purl loop.
3. Next, grab the working thread from right to left and pull out the crossed loop.

It is necessary to take into account which wall of the loop is closest to the edge, and after that choose the method of knitting the front crossed loops:

• if the front loop faces the front wall, then you need to insert the knitting needle in front of the back wall, and then pull out the loop
• if the back wall of the loop is closer to the edge, then the knitting needle is inserted in front of the front wall, and then the working thread is pulled out.

How to knit an additional and double loop with knitting needles

The double and additional loops may have similar functions, but despite this they look and perform completely differently.

In order to make an additional loop, you need to pull the thread from the gap that is located between the knitted and not yet knitted loops.

The following steps must be done in order to make a double loop with knitting needles:

• make a purl or knit loop behind the front wall, depending on the pattern.
• Then you don’t need to throw off the knitted loop from the left knitting needle, you need to knit it again, only this time behind the back wall.
• when you have done everything, you have a double loop that is knitted from one.

Making decreasing loops

In any place where a row is knitted, you can make decreasing loops; this can be done both on the wrong side and on the front side. In order to make decreasing or decreasing stitches, you need to knit 2 stitches that are on the left needle together as one purl or knit stitch, it all depends on the pattern.

If you want to conquer and master this type of needlework, then first you need to be able to make loops with knitting needles.

Casting on stitches on knitting needles is the very first obstacle that a beginning craftswoman faces. Of course, mothers and grandmothers will always tell us about the traditional option, but besides it there are many others that are suitable for different occasions and will ideally frame your work, as well as give its edge the advantages necessary in each particular case. This master class with detailed descriptions, photo and video materials will help you make your choice and teach you the many variations of buttonhole stitching..

Traditional knitting set

Absolutely all knitters are familiar with this option, because it is the simplest, most universal and, accordingly, very common. Knitting with this emb. allows you to make a pattern starting from the first row and is perfect for the neckline and sleeves. Suitable for both regular and circular sp.

To begin with, we should take n. in the left hand, leaving n. in reserve, which should be two or two and a half times (depending on the knitting density) longer than the width of the finished fabric. Next, we circle it around thumb clockwise and place it on the index finger, holding both ends in the palm of your hand. We insert two knitting needles folded together into the point on the thumb, grab the n. from the index finger and drag it into the loop on the big p., then we drop it, while helping ourselves with the big and index finger tighten the loop. Afterwards, holding p. uk. p. We lower the knitting needles towards ourselves and repeat the knitting as described earlier, in the end we will get two loops. To prevent the chain of sts from twisting, you should constantly hold the sts. uk. P..

Video lesson

Cord-like set of loops

Such an embankment loops create the effect of a decorative edge and are ideal for reinforcing the bottom of the fabric when making mohair products. As in the previous case, here we can also start knitting the main pattern immediately after the first row; The loops of the initial row are formed from the main thread, and the bottom chain is formed from a thick thread folded in three, which makes the neck of the product quite strong. Suitable for any joint, including circular ones.

Fold n. three times, place it on the left palm so that the main n. was on uk. p., triple on the big one, the formed loop is located between us. p. and b. p.. Next, everything is very similar to the traditional embroidery: we insert two knitting needles into the loop under the main. n. and, holding it, we continue to work as in the first option.

Video lesson

Set of hinges with thick edge

It is used most often as a decoration, because it perfectly retains the shape of the neck of the product and serves as a decoration for subsequent elastic or garter stitch. Also such an embankment. a loop with a thickened edge is called “double”; the compacted end is formed by embankment. p. and 1 r., and then, for example, 1x1 elastic bands.

After placing the double thread on your fingers in a figure eight pattern, make the first loop and tighten it. Next we will knit in the same way as with a regular embankment. pet., but with only one difference - on the thumb we remain with a double n., on the index finger - with one (we hold the second one together with the knitting needles). Thus, a dense “pigtail” is formed, which will reliably protect our work from deformation.

A set of hinges with a thickened edge: video master class

Tubular hinge set

This option is ideal in cases where we need an elastic and elastic end. Knitted after a 1x1 elastic band, it will perfectly retain the shape of the product, protecting the edge. from stretching. In addition, the tubular embankment. loops are also perfect for faces. satin stitch, to decorate the sleeve or neck of a sweater.
For work we will need yarn of two different colors, but of the same thickness. Additional no. we will link the auxiliary r. and then we will delete it. The number of stitches should be half the amount we need + 1 stitch (for example, if we need a fabric 60 stitches wide, we make 30 + 1 stitch).

Loose ponytail n. and sp. put it in your right hand, and n. from the skein - to the left, holding it, we draw it around the thumb and index point.. Sp. enter from bottom to top under n. large p., grab n. from uk. p. and pull out the loop, resulting in a crossed p.. We continue knitting the st. n., without pulling n. too much, until we get it on the sp. 31 p., then we turn the work over and work on the basics. n.: we knit the row completely l. p. behind the back wall, next p. - And. p., and the third p. already l. etc., but in the classical way - behind the front wall; thus, on our sp. along the bottom edge there are alternate stitches. and auxiliary colors.

Next, we make the first st., then we pick up the bow of the st. color, we transfer it to the left sp. and knit l. p.. Then – and. p., pick it up and do everything the same as with the previous p., continue this until the end of the p.

It is important to remember that the stitches on top should always be purl, and the stitches below (those by which we grab the sp.) should always be knit!

We remove the auxiliary thread and start working on our pattern. As mentioned earlier, for such a set the most suitable options– elastic bands 1x1 or 2x2. In the case of 1x1, we simply continue the elm. n. how they lie on the back: i. p. - purl., l. p. – persons..

Tubular set of hinges: video master class

Tubular set of loops

This option will give us a rounded edge, which is ideal for 1x1 or 2x2 elastic for the neck of the product. Suitable for both regular and circular sp.
First, we need, as in the previous case, to dial aux. contrasting n. the number of p., half as much as necessary, and make a few p..

Basic n. – 1 purl. R., then - 3 R. persons Ch. (1 r. - l.p., 2 r. - i.p., 3 r. - l.p.), turn it inside out and then make the first st. purl, insert the tip of the right sp. for the first stroke, put a st on the left sp. and make her faces. behind the back wall. We continue knitting in the same way until we reach the last stitch that we knitted. from the wrong side, we raise the stroke under the edge. p. and knit it, and then make it with the intended pattern, you just have to remove the auxiliary. n., cutting a few sts.

Video lesson

Invisible loop set

This option helps if we start working from the top (for example, from the neck of a sweater) and helps to avoid unnecessary seams. Knitters know various ways, but we will advise you only one invisible one - the simplest, most inconspicuous and universal.

We unwind the resp. n. such a length that it contains all the points that we want to type on. Working stitch, having released the small tail, pick up 1 stitch with a slip knot and place it on the tip of the sp. Clamp the tail of the sp. n., holding it under the sp., so that the sp. n. was in front of the worker.

Then we need to take the slave. and aux. n. in your left hand and keep them together all the time; more n. lion We insert our hands between the slaves. and aux. n. and pull the finger towards ourselves, while crossing the slave knitting needles. and aux. n..
Left direction p., insert between slave. and aux. n. and pull it away from us, holding it on it. n., we get something like a rhombus with a slave. n. on big p.. Then lower the tip of the sp. inside the diamond and grab the slave. n. towards you and up, we get the second st..

Later, we turn the brush towards ourselves and change the position of the p. n. and c. n. Because of this, working n. will pass under the auxiliary sp. below. We lower the sp. slave behind n. from under the far side of the diamond inward, capturing the workers. n. towards you and up, we get the third stitch. We continue knitting until the required width is reached.

Video lesson

Turkish

The edge with open loops, which is obtained with this embossing, is used if in the future it is necessary to continue knitting in opposite directions. The loops are cast on in the traditional way on each knitting needle (you can also use circular ones).

For two bedrooms of the same thickness we cast on one stitch, and the next one on the second sp. and so we alternate sp. until we reach the required length. If we make the Turkish embankment. correctly, then we will end up with one knitted r..

Video lesson

Temporary

The temporary set is also universal, suitable in cases where you need to make a cr. as invisible as possible against the background of the pattern - when knitting the neck of a product or the edge of a jacket, for example. Perfect for rubber bands.

We make p. from basic. threads for 1 sp., add aux. n., we go under it and grab the base. n., get out from under the auxiliary, throw on the main. n. on the sp. We continue knitting until the required number of stitches is reached, then we turn the work and remove 1 stitch with knitting needles as an edge stitch, the next purl stitch. remove, then - l. p. and so on until the end of the r., repeat this one more r., and then we can easily pull out the auxiliary. n..

Video lesson

Bulgarian

The Bulgarian knitting set, also called cross-shaped or “Bulgarian beginning”, is widespread due to its ease of execution and the resulting voluminous, dense edge, which has not only practical, but also decorative significance. This knitting is suitable both for the neck of the product and for decorating the edge.

We need to cast on stitches in the usual way, leaving a tail behind (number of stitches * 4 cm long) and then work knit. crossed loops, knitting each pair of loops on the left sp. as one. Our working thread is yarn in the form of a double thread, which consists of n. from the skein and the remaining tail. The first two stitches have already been knitted by one lyceum. Crossed, but not yet removed from the left back. Next r. – lyceums. n. only with yarn from a ball. Last row: above the item of the previous row. we knit the purl ones, from the broaches between them - the front ones.

The scheme of work is clearly shown in this video tutorial:

Decorative set with crossed loops

Perfect for knitting the neck of a blouse or its sleeves.

We use double yarn on the sp. an even number of stitches in the same way as in the “Bulgarian beginning” (see above), purl the row. pet. We don’t knit.

In the next r. remove the chrome. p., 1 i. p., 1 l. p. behind the back wall, alternate until the end of the p., i.e., purl. we do it over the purl, yarn overs - with the front ones, they will give us crossed loops in the end. 2nd row - remove the edge, 1 purl, 1 knit behind the back wall. Alternate until the end of the row, i.e. Knit the purls over the purls, and knit the yarn overs with the knit stitches - these are the ones that make the crossed loops. From the next day You can proceed to the main drawing.

Decorative openwork knitting set

This option is also suitable as a decoration for the edge of the product and its neck. It is quite elastic and soft, looks like knitted lace.

We need to dial in two sp. p., as in the previous case - an even number, do not forget to also leave a long tail.

1st r. – connect the main n. with a spare end and knit 2 loops together behind the back walls.
2nd r. (knit stitch of fabric, knit only the main st, break off the remaining tail) - without separating the double sts, knit them knit stitches. behind the front walls.
3rd r. – elastic bands 1×1: purl. p. above the wrong side, lyceums. we make from broaches between purl. p. and before the last edge.
After all this, you can safely proceed to the pattern according to your scheme.

Set of loops with fringe

In this case, we will talk about a purely decorative set. Of course, it is not suitable for every item, but this set of loops looks original and can easily decorate, for example, a blanket or rug, a scarf or mittens, and will also serve as a decoration for children's and women's products.

We hang it on the sign. p. yarn from the ball, and wrap the free tail around the thumb; after that we introduce 2 sp folded together. in a loop on a larger one. p. and grab both n. that come from the pointer. p., and output to p. on the big one. Drop the yarn from the large stitch and tighten the stitch. on a knitting needle.

As a result of these actions we will get the first fringe loop. We can adjust its length using the tension force of the tip, but if it is difficult for you to do this evenly, you can use a cardboard template.

Then we go back to sleep. under item on b. finger and grab both threads coming from the index finger, bring them into a stitch on the thumb, continue knitting until the end of the row, having received a set of double stitches, after which you can start working on the planned pattern.

Video lesson

We hope that our job descriptions, photos and video tutorials will help you master these techniques for casting on loops in as soon as possible. Thanks to them, you can do beautiful sweater, blanket or scarf, carefully and correctly framing it, which will make the item knitted by your hands strong, warm and durable.

The Italian method of casting on loops with knitting needles is perfect for ribbed cuffs and bottom trims, which retain their elasticity after many washes and frequent wearing of a knitted product. Excellent retention of shape is not the only quality of a product knitted using this method of stitching. The result of Italian knitting is very beautiful and is often confused with the perfect-looking machine knitting.

When casting on Italian stitches on knitting needles, the pattern turns out smooth and elastic. Professionals offer several methods of such knitting, which are perfect for both beginners and experienced knitters, who will definitely not get bored in the process.

Italian set of stitches with knitting needles - master class

What is unique about the Italian method of casting on stitches on knitting needles? First of all, there are several ways to knit stitches in the Italian cast-on, which allow you to get different variants patterns, and at the same time offer varying degrees of complexity of work:

• Italian set of loops with auxiliary thread;
• Italian set of loops without auxiliary thread.

Knitting loops with an auxiliary thread is considered more complex and interesting - here three knitting needles are used, and an additional thread (or elastic thread) of a contrasting color, while knitting with an Italian cast-on without an auxiliary thread is faster and more convenient - you only need one knitting needle and one thread. The choice is yours.

If you choose knitting in the Italian way, either with or without an additional thread, you can get a rounded, neat elastic edge, which is often knitted in the form of a 1x1 elastic band, double elastic bands and 2×2 elastic bands.

An important rule to follow when using the Italian method of casting on stitches with knitting needles: The first five rows should be knitted with knitting needles one full size thinner than the main elastic fabric.

With elastic edge

The Italian method of casting on stitches on knitting needles is really ideal for elastic edges of the cuff, neckline or bottom of knitted items such as sweaters, jumpers, hats. It retains its original shape for a long time and is convenient for circular knitting.

Let's consider a method that helps to get the most elastic edge - Italian method of casting on stitches with auxiliary thread. You can call the end result a 1×1 elastic band.

For this method, we prepare a yarn of the main color and an auxiliary thread of a contrasting color. We will knit stitches on two knitting needles.

Progress:

Using a contrasting thread, we put half of the required number of loops on the knitting needles. This thread will no longer be needed, so it can be cut so that it does not interfere with further work. Next we will knit with a thread of the main color.

First row knit with facial loops. Also knit the edge loop; there is no need to remove it. This applies exclusively to the first row. Subsequently, the edge loops are removed as usual - without knitting.

Second row- purl loops.

Third row- facial loops.

Knitting turn to work on fourth row. Remove the edge. The next stitch is a purl stitch. Then pick up a loop from the 1st row, put it on the left needle and knit. The next stitch is a purl stitch again (it’s already on the needle). Raise the stitch again from the 1st row and knit it. And so on.

Thus, you need to alternate: knit purl loops from purl stitches, and knit stitches from broaches. It is convenient to lift the loops using a hook or an additional knitting needle.

The number of loops will double and reach the required calculated number. This is what knitting looks like at the end of the fourth row.

Fifth row knit the way the loops lie, i.e. knit purl stitches with purl stitches, and knit stitches with knit stitches. A 1x1 elastic band is formed.

Knit the following rows with 1x1 rib until you reach the desired height.

Unravel the auxiliary thread and pull it out of the knitting. She is no longer needed.

Beautiful cross-shaped

A cross-shaped set of stitches with knitting needles is perfect for finishing the edge of a knitted product. A denser edge made with cross-shaped loops perfectly shapes the item. This method, also called the “Bulgarian beginning”, requires a special set of loops.

Knitting pattern and work progress:

To make this set of loops, fold the thread coming from the ball in three, and the length of the triple thread should be approximately three times greater than the width of the part. We place the thread on the fingers of the left hand, the triple thread from the ball hangs from the thumb, and the thread coming from the ball hangs from the index finger. We insert the knitting needles folded together into the loop, as shown in photo 1.

We press the threads with the index finger of the right hand to the knitting needles and form the first loop, grabbing the triple thread from the outside of the thumb of the left hand (photos 2 and 3).

We form the second loop by grabbing the triple thread with inside left thumb. To do this, the position of the triple loop on the thumb of the left hand needs to be changed: throw off the thread and immediately pick it up from the opposite side of the finger (photo 4).

By casting on loops alternately from the outside and inside of the left thumb (which is why the method is called cross-shaped), we get a series of loops that are placed on the knitting needles in pairs. The cross-shaped typesetting row on the front side is shown in photo 5.

Then each loop of the pair is knitted knit or purl, depending on the pattern with which the product will be made.

For elastic band 2x2

The Italian set of stitches with knitting needles for 2x2 rib begins to be knitted as a 1x1 rib, later supplemented with several important manipulations.

For this set of stitches you will need 1 pair of knitting needles with the number that will be used to knit the rib. Form the first loop on the needle. Place the working thread on your index finger and the end of the thread on your left thumb. The knitting needle with a loop is located in the middle.

Progress:

Place the knitting needle under the thread on your thumb, and then grab the thread from underneath it on your index finger. Pull the knitting needle towards you; a loop will form on the knitting needle, reminiscent of a knit stitch.
Move the needle away from you and down under the thread going to the index finger and grab the thread going to the thumb from under it. A loop has formed that resembles a purl loop.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have cast on the required number of stitches. The penultimate stitch cast on should look like a purl stitch. To secure the cast-on stitches, cast on the last stitch as in a normal cast-on. For a 1x1 elastic band, cast on an even number of loops; for a 2x2 elastic band, cast on a number of loops that are a multiple of 4 plus 2 edge stitches.

We knit the first row with a hollow elastic band. We remove the edge, and knit the next loop behind the back wall. We remove the purl loop that follows without knitting, the working thread passes before work. Repeat until the end of the row. The last, edge loop is knitted behind the front wall.

We knit the second row of hollow elastic. In this case, the knit stitches are knitted behind the front wall, and the purl stitches are removed without knitting the thread before work.

For a 2x2 elastic band, we knit the first row as follows. After the edge stitch we knit the first knit stitch.

We swap the next purl loop and the subsequent knit stitch. And then we knit a knit stitch.

There are many ways to start knitting. The choice of one edge or another depends on the future product... “You can master any knitting techniques you like, know how intarsia differs from aran and skillfully apply this knowledge. But if you don’t pay enough attention to the inlaid edge, the intarsia will be of no use.”

This truth was revealed to me when, conjuring over another sweater, I could not bring the character of the main pattern and the inlaid edge into line: the second did not want to harmoniously complement the first, and the first did not want to be a logical consequence of the second.
Actually, this was the motivating reason for collecting a collection of “beginnings”, which I will gradually make public.

Regular way

Some cast-ons are based on already cast-on stitches, cast on "normally".
I will describe the “usual method” that I usually use.

We stretch the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, leaving a tail that is approximately three times larger than the future width of the canvas. The thread of the ball goes through the index finger.
Place a couple of knitting needles under the stretched thread, press the thread against the knitting needles index finger right hand. We move the thread with the knitting needles towards us...

...move it under the thread coming from the thumb, then under the thread coming from the index finger and back under the thread from the thumb.

As a result, we get two loops on the knitting needles.

Each consecutive repetition of the movements recorded in photos 1 and 2 will add one loop to the knitting needles.
A fairly elastic edge with a delicate appearance, which makes it almost universal. However, as my readers rightly point out, in popular places they quickly lose their appearance due to abrasion:

BULGARIAN BEGINNING

We cast on the loops in the usual way, leaving a tail length of about the number of loops * 4 cm:

We work with knit crossed stitches, knitting each pair of stitches on the left needle as one. The working thread is a double thread, consisting of the thread from the ball and the remaining tail:

The first two loops have already been knitted with one knitted stitch, but have not yet been removed from the left knitting needle.

At the end of the row, we leave the tail thread - we won’t need it anymore.
We knit the next row with facial loops using only the thread from the ball.
The last row of the set: we knit purl stitches over the loops of the previous row, and knit stitches from the broaches between them.

The very broaches from which the facial loops are supposed to be knitted are marked.

Ready.

As a result, we get a decorative, embossed, not too elastic set.

ITALIAN SET

We take a thread of a contrasting color, a hook of a suitable size and knit a rather loose chain of air loops. The number of loops in the chain is calculated as follows: if you need N loops for work, the length of the chain should be N: 2+1 loops.

We put aside the hook, take a knitting needle and cast on loops on it using the following sequence of steps: one loop is knitted from the chain as a knit stitch, yarn over with a thread from a ball, knit from the chain again, yarn over again, etc.

Having completed the row, we connect the second knitting needle to the work: we knit all the yarn overs of the previous row with knit stitches, and remove all the knit yarn overs (now we see them as purl ones) as in purl knitting, leaving the working thread before work.

We will knit three more rows in this mode.
It is curious that a side effect of such knitting is the cavity that is formed between the many knit stitches and the many slipped stitches: if all the knit stitches of one row are removed on one knitting needle, and all the slipped loops of the same row are removed on another, then we will get two parallel fabrics.
By-effect with great potential!

The contrast thread unravels.

The cast-on edge - with neat teeth, absolutely elastic - is ready.

OPEN HINGE SET

THE QUESTION IS OFTEN ASKED: is there such a set that (both ours and yours) can then be knitted in both directions? For example, I knit a dress, pick up stitches and knit from the waist level, for example, and then somehow contrive and knit a skirt down from the initially cast on stitches. Relevant when you need to shorten a skirt, for example, and the dress is knitted at the bottom.

It turned out that there is, but not just one.

First way

We stretch the thread between the thumb and index finger of the left hand so that the thread from the ball goes through the index finger and position a pair of knitting needles relative to the thread in the indicated way.
We transfer the thread from the thumb with a turn of the wrist between the knitting needles and throw it onto the far knitting needle.

We return the hand to its original position, and throw the thread from the index finger onto the nearest knitting needle and carry it between the knitting needles.

Winding up the above-described “eights” should lead to the following result:

It is worth noting that the stitches on the two needles will be oriented differently: one needle will have a continental orientation, the other will have an English orientation. When working, they will need to be adjusted depending on your knitting style.

Second way

Another method of knitting in both directions requires a hook and thread of a contrasting color.

Take a hook, take a contrasting thread and knit a chain of the required number of chain stitches.
We put aside the hook, take a knitting needle, the main thread and begin to knit the front loops from the back walls of the loops of the chain.

Next, the desired pattern is made on the cast-on loops.

To start knitting in the opposite direction, the chain of auxiliary thread is unraveled...

...and the resulting loops are carefully placed on a knitting needle, observing their orientation.

Both methods give an identical result: in the fabric, the place where you started knitting with the second knitting needle is absolutely invisible:

LIFTED EDGE IN THE FORM OF A CORD

A universal set that gives a strong elastic edge - be sure to try it in your work!

Make a slip knot on the left needle.
We knit the resulting loop with a knit stitch, which, without removing the knitted loop from the left knitting needle, is placed on the left knitting needle.

We place the right knitting needle in the gap before the last loop of the left knitting needle and knit a knitting needle from it, which, without removing anything from the left knitting needle, is again placed on the left knitting needle.

Continuing to knit the front loops from the gap between the loops, we find that a twisted cord begins to form along the bottom of the work and note with satisfaction that we are on the right track.

Having thus collected the required number of loops, you can begin knitting the desired pattern.

This cast-on edge is interesting because it can be used not only as the beginning of knitting, but also as a way to cast on additional loops on the side of the knitted fabric.

STALLED EDGE WITH FESTONS

To complete this unusual set, you need to stock up on a pair of knitting needles and a crochet hook.

We put one knitting needle and a hook together, and cast on this pair in the usual way the required number of loops, depending on the desired width of the scallop (I decided to stop at ten).

Place the next loop only on the hook...

...and pull this loop through the previously cast on loops.

We transfer this loop to the knitting needle, and use it to hook the first loop of the scallop (pay attention to the color marking).

We put the knitting needle and hook together again and cast on the next scallop.

We work in the described manner until the required number of scallops appears on the knitting needle.

We turn the work and knit the next row with the required pattern, casting on the required number of loops in the first row inside each scallop (it seemed to me that three would be enough). You can use yarn overs or the same cord method.

Colored dots - yarn overs inside each scallop

We get a beautiful decorative edge, almost inelastic.

STALLED EDGE WITH FRINGE

A very interesting set: the fringe will be strong, in the form of loops or, if cut, a strand.

Starting position: the thread from the ball is on the index finger, the tail lies in a loop on the thumb.
We put two knitting needles together, guide them under the thread on the thumb...

Next, we grab both threads on the index finger and lead them into the loop on the thumb.

We drop the thread from the thumb and tighten the knot with the thread coming from the ball.

We drop the thread from the index finger (this is the first loop of the fringe), send it to the right hand, at the same time placing the thread from the ball in front of it. If necessary, adjust the length of the loop by tensioning the tail.

Again we guide the knitting needles under the thread on the thumb, grab the loop on the index finger, etc.

To adjust the length of fringe loops, it is convenient to use a cardboard or plastic template. I was too lazy to make a template - the loops didn’t turn out exactly the same.

The result of casting on will be a row of double loops on a knitting needle. In the next row you can begin knitting the planned pattern, knitting each double loop as one.

STAINED EDGE WITH TRIPLE THREAD

In fact, this is the same usual method, with the only difference that it involves a triple thread.

So, take the thread from the ball and fold it in three.

We throw the triple thread onto the thumb of the left hand so that the loop of the triple thread is between the thumb and index finger, and the thread going from the triple thread to the ball goes through the index finger.

We insert the knitting needle into the loop of the triple thread...

... we pull it towards ourselves, then, according to the usual method, we go under the loop on the thumb, hook the thread on the index finger from bottom to top and return back to the loop of the thumb.

The edge assembled in this way has a noticeable edge, moderately elastic and quite decorative. Of course, it is far from the Bulgarian concept, but this set cannot be called universal.

MACHINE EDGE

A tight, even edge is what you get as a result.

Starting position: the working thread is stretched between the thumb and index fingers of the left hand. The thread from the ball passes through the index finger.

Moving from left to right, place the knitting needle under the thread, turning the knitting needle slightly inside out. Edge loop received. In further work, we hold it with the thumb or index finger of our right hand in order to avoid unnecessary displacement.

We dive the knitting needle under the thread coming from the thumb, catch the thread on the index finger and draw it back under the thread of the thumb. This is the rule for casting on all knit stitches.

We direct the knitting needle under the thread going to the index finger, catch the thread of the thumb, which we bring back under the thread of the index finger. This is the rule for casting on all purl stitches.

Make sure that the loops do not twist, and that the interlacing threads securing them lie strictly under the knitting needle.

It is worth noting that the use of the concepts of front and back loops in in this case very conditional.
Purl stitches are called loops with a “pad” at the bottom (they are marked in red in the photo), knit stitches are all the rest:

Alternating between knit and purl stitches, cast on the required number of stitches. The last stitch cast on should be the knit stitch.

Let's turn the work around. We knit the first loop as an edge loop.
The next stitch is a knit stitch, but it is oriented incorrectly relative to the continental knitting method. We knit it with the front one crossed, and remove the next purl one without knitting, leaving the thread before work.

We work like this until the end of the row.

Let's turn the work around.
The orientation of the knit stitches has been corrected, so we knit the next two rows according to the following rule: knit stitches over knit stitches, remove purl stitches without knitting, thread before work.

After trying this set, you will definitely notice that the first four rows give a rather voluminous edge. To avoid contrast, cast-on rows are knitted with knitting needles of a smaller diameter.

TWO-COLOR SET

At the ends of the yarn of both colors we make a slip knot.

We send the knitting needle with knots to the left hand, with the right knitting needle we knit the first loop of the left knitting needle with a knitting stitch with a thread of a contrasting color.

We continue to work with the same color. Let's yarn over...

...knit the remaining stitch on the left needle in the same color.

Return the last knitted stitch to the left needle.

The thread of the color we have been working with so far is behind the work. We move it forward between the knitting needles.

The thread that is still unclaimed - on the contrary, we transfer it back between the knitting needles and make a yarn over with it.

We knit the loop of the left knitting needle with it.

We return the last knitted loop back to the left needle, etc.

To with “etc.” There are no difficulties, let’s go through the pictures in the sequence “return the loop - move one thread - move another thread - knit the front one” using the following loops as an example:

Ready set.

In the next row you can begin knitting the selected pattern. I, succumbing to the rhythm of the cast-on edge, performed a two-color satin stitch.