“Luvua, what are these strange scarves tied around the necks of these riders? I liked them. Make sure that tomorrow I have a dozen of the same handkerchiefs. These words were spoken in 1663, at the dawn of absolutism. Versailles is under construction, a huge, opulent palace southwest of Paris. At the head of France, which has emerged from the Thirty Years' War and has clearly grown stronger, is the 25-year-old Louis XIV, a king who pays attention to everything beautiful.
It is not known for certain whether Louis XI really instructed Francois Michel Le Tellier, the Marquis de Louvois - the future Minister of Defense of France, to get him some of these neckerchiefs. But it is known that at this time the modern German name for ties was born. In German, the tie sounds like Halstuch, translated into Russian, this word means "neck scarf".
It didn't take long to get the fashion on neckerchiefs settled in the UK. Already after 150 years, a similar scarf could be seen around the neck of every Englishman.

The first mention of ties can be found in the history of Ancient Egypt, where a piece of regular geometric shape thrown over the shoulders served as a kind of symbol of the social status of its owner. Also, one of the first ties was worn by the ancient Chinese. This is evidenced by stone statues near the tomb of Emperor Shihuan Di - on the necks of nobles and warriors are tied bandages resembling modern ties in shape. However, these headbands were too far from modern ties, both in terms of the way they were worn and in form, and were deprived of the main attribute of a modern tie - the knot.

The appearance of neckerchiefs in ancient Rome marked the beginning of the era of ties in the modern sense of the word. However, the year 1635 is considered to be the real victory of this symbol of men's wardrobe. After the victory over the Janissaries of the Turkish Sultan, the Croatian soldiers were invited to the court of the French King Louis XIII as a reward for their courage and valor shown on the battlefield. Officers of the Croatian army then wore colorful silk neckerchiefs. The French king liked the new piece of clothing so much that he could not resist and also tied something similar on himself, becoming the first trendsetter in the tie fashion of France, and therefore the whole of Europe. Hence one of the versions of the origin of the French word cravatte (French - tie), as a derivative of the self-name of the Croats
Since the end of the 16th century, men have been wearing camisoles. And as a decoration they put on a round corrugated hard collar. Often it was a large disc covering the neck, which could reach several centimeters in thickness. It was made of white fabric and starched so that it would not lose its shape.

Over time, he was replaced by a wide turn-down collar with teeth that covered the shoulders. This style of collar was sometimes called "Van Dyck". It was worn, for example, by the Puritans.

In the 17th century, a long vest came into fashion, which men wore under a regular camisole. A scarf was tied around the neck. It was wrapped several times around the neck, and its free ends hung down on the chest. Picturesque canvases of the late 17th century indicate that by that time such neckerchiefs had gained extreme popularity. They were made from muslin, cambric and even lace.
There were many options for knots on such a scarf. Sometimes, so that it would not move out, a silk ribbon was tied over it, making a large bow under the chin. This type of neckerchief was called "tapeworm", or "diamond". The bow resembled a modern bow tie. As you know, there were at least a hundred ways to tie a neckerchief. It is said that the Englishman Frant Brummell, who influenced men's fashion, could spend all morning on properly tying a neckerchief
In the 18th century, a neckerchief with long ends began to be called a tie, and in the second half of the 19th century, it already looked like a modern tie. It was also called a self-tied tie. Collared shirts came into fashion. Now the tie was tied in a knot under the chin, and its long ends hung down on a starched shirt. It was at this time that the tie became what we know it today.

It should be noted that without the subsequent spread of the fashion for wearing ties in England, they would hardly have acquired the importance that they have in modern business fashion. In England, wearing ties was elevated to the rank of high art, and the gentleman was offered a choice of up to a hundred different ways of tying. It was also believed that the most serious insult for a man could be a statement about his tie, "an insult from which can only be washed away with blood."
In Russia, Peter I began to plant ties as a sign of a civilized look. The history of this plantation was difficult, and sometimes curious.

The emperor was even forced to issue rules for using a tie, which stated that "it is not worth wiping with a tie and it is not ordered to blow your nose." Since then, expressive names such as “noose”, “loop”, “snake” have been invented for the name of the toilet item, forcibly introduced.
During the French Revolution (1789-1799), the color "croat" indicated a person's political beliefs. In the 19th century, the dandies of European society rediscovered this accessory for themselves. It was then that the tie ceased to be the property of some military men and politicians and migrated to the wardrobe of ordinary citizens.

In 1827, the famous writer Honore de Balzac wrote a book called The Art of Wearing a Tie, in which he described the aesthetic necessity of tying a tie. The Byronian tie was a wide-knotted handkerchief that did not tighten the throat. The "tragic" black tie was part of the mourning and uniform. "Walter Scott" was sewn from checkered fabric. The white tie was intended for ceremonial dress of balls, evenings and dinner parties; it was supposed to be worn with a tailcoat or tuxedo, but in no case with a jacket. It should be added that in the time of Balzac, ties were silk, woolen, satin with various patterns.
In 1924, the final “no” was said to all variants of neckerchiefs and scarves: the American entrepreneur Jesse Langsdorf patented his “perfect tie”. Such a tie was sewn - and is still being sewn - from three parts, cut along the oblique. The consequence of this patent was the widespread displacement of transverse ties and the standardization of long ties in stripes, slant checks or pay-sleeves. These patterns became the basis for English club and college ties, allowing their owners to in a simple way report their affiliation.

The history of the invention of the regatta tie is interesting. It is believed that one young athlete, not having much time to fuss with a tie, cut it at the back, and then sewed a loop and a button on it to put it on again. New style The tie caught on, and now such ties are an integral part of the uniform.

In the 20th century, the design of the tie changed many times. In the 60s, skinny leather and knitted ties were popular; in the 70s, riotous colors of wide ties ruled the ball. Fashionable men's and women's clothing.
Throughout its history, the tie has undergone many changes in appearance. According to the rules, the width of the tie should be in harmony with the size of the shirt collar. So, in the early 70s, its width reached 13 cm. this moment proportions in strict business men's clothing suggest a tie width of 8.2 cm (options from 7 to 8.9 cm are possible). Traditionally, there are two categories of fabrics from which ties are made: jacquard and silk. Modern technologies allow the fashion designer not to limit the flight of his imagination, but to implement the craziest ideas, mixing three or four textures at the same time.

Every decade, the fashion for ties changed, sometimes the fashion of the past years returned, sometimes ties had an absolutely unpredictable look. Today, ties practically do not contain small details; more strict ties of unobtrusive colors have come into fashion. Thanks to the wild imagination of designers and the latest technologies, today it is possible to make ties, one might say, of any texture. Therefore, it will not be difficult for you to choose just such a tie that will ideally fit and match your suit.

Many people think that it is customary to wear ties only with strict classic suits. This is not true. A tie can also be combined with democratic clothing. If you put on, say, denim shirt, jeans and a jacket with a tie - it will be very youthful, but it will still emphasize a little business style in your suit. In it, you can come to work in the office, and this will not embarrass anyone.

In modern fashion, there are no clear rules that determine the color, pattern, shape and length of a tie. The criterion for its selection is only the style and color of clothing, as well as the taste of the owner. You can choose a tie with classic stripes or a timeless paisley pattern, or you can choose a pattern that mimics pizza or soup stains.

The attitude of modern men to a tie is different. Some appreciate the tie because it gives you the opportunity to emphasize your own individuality, many consider it a necessary evil, others call it a "noose" and try to get rid of it at the first opportunity.

There are several theories about how the neckerchief or tie came about. The history of these accessories is very confusing. So who invented the tie?

Egypt

Historians have discovered that one of the first references to the tie was in ancient Egypt. The inhabitants of this ancient state used its likeness (a piece of fabric of the correct geometric shape) as a cape on their shoulders. It was a kind of designation of a certain social status of a person.

China

In another ancient culture, historians have found the origins of the tie. In China, interesting stone statues were discovered near the tomb of the Chinese emperor Shihuan Di. On the sculptures, you can see bandages that are similar in shape to a tie. As it turned out, such distinctive signs were worn by nobles and wars.

But the "ancestors" of modern ties did not have the main thing - the knot. So the ancient Egyptian and ancient Chinese neckbands are not quite ties.

Europe

It is believed that the tie appeared in Europe only in 1635. This happened after the Croats defeated the Turks and, for their courage, were invited to Paris to receive the Queen of France, Anna of Austria (then Croatia was part of Austria-Hungary, an ally of France). At that time, Croatian officers wore colorful silk scarves around their necks. The French king liked this accessory so much that he himself began to wear something similar. Many Frenchmen followed suit.

It is possible that the word cravate (i.e. from the French "tie") is a derivative of the name of the Croatian people. However, according to another version, the word cravate was used even before Louis XIV. For example, it can be found in the ballad of the French writer Eustache Deschamps (1340-1407).

It is worth saying that some historians are inclined to think that the Croats were not the ancestors of ties and scarves around the neck. They supposedly took the idea from the Romans (they called such an attribute of clothing "fascalia"). In Rome, they really wore special bandages around the neck. But this was done only so that the protective plates of the shell did not rub.

But it was Louis who turned out to be a true trendsetter. Thanks to his efforts, soon all fashionistas in Europe acquired neckerchiefs. Moreover, this idea was liked not only by men, but also by women.

The strong half of humanity in the 21st century cannot do without a tie. Thanks to him appearance men become more stylish, handsome and businesslike.

Ties have taken their place among men all over the world, but they have no practical purpose and are merely decorative items. Fashion experts, sociologists and other professionals have been interested in the history of the appearance of the tie for many years: who invented it and why, and how it became the pinnacle of business attire.

While many people dread the thought of tying a tie knot, others enjoy the fact that they can continue the tradition of formality, poise and elegance.

Many ordinary people are interested in why a man needs a tie in his wardrobe. Unlike the vast majority of clothing people wear, ties are purely decorative and have no practical purpose. Most clothing is used primarily as a tool to protect against environmental conditions such as heat, rain or snow. It also helps to meet the standards of cultural clothing.

Even scarves, which are the ancestors of the tie and bow ties, were used as protection from the weather.

For reference! People tend to approach a man with a large, loose knot than a small, tight knot because they will perceive him to be more social.

origin of name

Usually, when they ask the question - who invented the tie, it is believed that these are Croatian cavalrymen. After the upheavals of the Thirty Years' War, Europe saw the tie as it can be seen today. King Louis XIII hired Croatian mercenaries who wore a small piece of cloth around the neck as part of their uniform. While these early ties did serve their purpose (tying the tops of their jackets together) they also had a rather decorative effect - the look of which King Louis was very fond of.

In fact, he liked ties so much that he made them a must-have accessory for royal gatherings. And in order to honor the memory of the Croatian soldiers, the king gave the name of this piece of clothing "La cravate".

The word cravatte, the forerunner of ties, comes from the French "la croate", which means "Croat".

The first mention of a tie

What became known as the "tie" about three hundred years ago has been around for thousands of years, dating back to before the dawn of human existence. To display the origin of the tie and determine its meaning, you need to go back in time to antiquity. If you go back four thousand years to Ancient Egypt, you can see wide ties decorated with precious stones around the neck of many pharaohs.

First came scarves, which were worn by the Romans in 113 AD as a badge of honor. Many Imperial Legionnaires wore them tucked into their armor. Other sociologists believe that the scarf was a symbol of sick people.

In 1974 it was discovered ancient tomb Qin Shi Huang. He was the first emperor of China, who died in 210 BC, the famous Terracotta Army was found with him. Surprisingly, these soldiers wore wide scarves wrapped around their necks, while the officers wore carefully tied ties.

The Croatian equestrian scarf was the highest fashion in the French Baroque. It was a long white cloth, made of fine cotton or linen, which was tied around the neck in elaborate ways. Sometimes it was decorated with lace.

Expert opinion

Helen Goldman

Male stylist-image maker

The expensive lace frill worn by King Charles II of England in 1660 corresponded to about a 10-year salary at the time.

Further history and evolution of the accessory

The history of the appearance of a tie is quite large and the early ties of the 17th century bear little resemblance to today's tie. However, it was a style that remained popular throughout Europe for over 200 years. The tie as we know it today did not appear until the 1920s, but has undergone many changes since then.

Do you like the ties of yesteryear?

YesNot

In the last century, there have been many changes in the design of the tie:

• 1900 – 1909 . The tie was a mandatory set of clothing for men in the first decade of the 20th century. The most common were cravats, which originated from early 17th century neckties brought to France by the Croats. What was different was how they were connected. Two decades ago, the "Four in hand" knot was invented, which was the only knot used for ties. At the same time, two other styles of tie are becoming popular - the bow tie and the ascot;
• 1910 – 1919 . The second decade of the 20th century saw a decline in the fashion for formal ties and ascots as men's fashion moved more towards casual style and haberdashers focused more on comfort, functionality and fit. By the end of this decade, ties begin to resemble those known today;
• 1920 – 1929 . This is an important decade for ties, as the history of the tie, invented by Jesse Langsdorf, begins here. He cut the fabric at a 45˚ angle using a three-piece design. This made it possible to tie a tie with standard knots, while maintaining a uniform drapery and not twisting it;
• 1930 – 1939 . during these years ties became much wider and often had bold patterns and art deco designs. Ties were usually tied with the Windsor knot, which was invented at the time by the Duke;
• in the 50s a thin tie appeared, as it fit better with the style of clothing of the time. In addition, manufacturers began to experiment with different types of materials for their manufacture;
• in the 60s another extreme came into fashion - the widest ties. Products up to 15 cm wide were not uncommon. This style was called Kipper Tie;
• 1970 – 1979 these are the years where the fashion for a bolo tie came from, and in the 80s a thin tie appears, which was most often made of leather;
• By the 90s 8-10 cm wide ties with bold floral prints, as well as paisley patterns, became popular.

Modern look

Today, ties are available in a variety of widths, cutouts, fabrics, and patterns. Such a wide choice allows the modern man to express his personal style. The standard width for ties is still in the 8 to 9 cm range. Thin ties range in width from 6.5 cm to 7.5 cm. In addition to changing the width, unique fabrics, weaves and patterns have emerged. Knitted ties became popular in 2011 and 2012, as well as a strong trend towards bold colors and paisley patterns. A knitted men's tie with a blunt end is gaining no less popularity.

Conclusion

After all, a tie is a decorative item that should flatter its wearer. It belongs to an integral part of a man's wardrobe, because it has a great influence on how a person is perceived and helps to complete the image. Psychologically, there are many reasons to wear a tie, although the best one is to express yourself.

Tie. Borrowed from the German Halstuch, formed by adding the elements Hals - "neck" and Tuch - "handkerchief". Even in the last century, “tie” was read and written, which conveyed the sound of the last vowel of the German word.

tie

Dutch - halsdoek (tie).

German - Halstuch (tie).

In Russian, the word "tie" has been known since the 18th century, it is first found in Kurakin's "Archive" in the form "galzduk", which indicates a borrowing from Dutch (from halsdoek). Later, the form "necklace" was supplanted by the form "tie" from the German halstuch - "neck scarf", where hals - "neck", tuch - "handkerchief". The same meaning was assigned to the Russian word "tie" from the very beginning of its existence in the language and is its main meaning.

In the 20-30s. In the 20th century, the word "tie" acquired an additional meaning in combination with the adjective "pioneer" - a red tie, an attribute of Soviet pioneer schoolchildren.

Derivatives: necktie, necktie.

Tie. The easiest way would be to consider: this is from the Germans! After all, in German "Hals" - "neck", "Tuch" - "handkerchief". "Tie" is a "neck scarf".

Not so easy, however! For the first time, this word appeared among us in the days of Peter the Great, sounding like “galzduk”. Apparently, it came from Holland, where the "neck scarf" would be exactly "galsdoek". And only later German pronunciation changed it in its own way.

tie tie (Pushkin), for the first time in the form of a tie in the era of Peter I (1705), Ust. marine 1724; see Christiani 49. Initially borrowed gol. halsdoek "tie" was subsequently supplanted, apparently in German. Halstuch; see Smirnov 79; Converter 1, 118.

“An elegantly tied tie is the first important step in life".

Oscar Wilde

It is difficult to imagine modern men's fashion without such an accessory. like a tie. After all, this is the main decoration and business card any man.

The English gentleman was required to master the art of tying tie knots. different ways, and the most serious insult was considered a negative statement about his tie. In the material we will give a description of this accessory, as well as outline the history of its origin.

Origin of the word "tie"

According to the Oxford Dictionary, the origin of the name "tie" goes back to the word "Croat".

Who invented it? It is believed that Croatian cavalrymen who fought on the side of France against the Habsburg Empire wore neckerchiefs as part of their uniforms. When the French asked the Croats what they had on their necks, the soldiers thought they were being asked about their nationality.

Because of this misunderstanding, a word meaning tie appeared.

The word "tie" first appeared in Russia during the reign of Peter I and comes from two German words - "neck" and "handkerchief".

Interesting: a grabatologist is a collector of ties.

The history of this wardrobe element

Now about the history of the tie in more detail. Louis XIV, amazed by the elegance of the scarves of Croatian soldiers, made this accessory a sign of the nobility and declared himself the founder of modern fashion. The king did not even suspect that the history of the origin of the tie goes back centuries.

In Egypt

The first mention of the prototype of a modern accessory belongs to the history of Ancient Egypt.

The strips of fabric were rectangular shape and denoted social status owner.

In China

The ancient Chinese are also among the first to wear ties. But these bandages, which serve as protection against chafing by armor. They only remotely resemble the attribute of a modern man.

In ancient Rome

Roman legionnaires were the first to tie neck scarves in a knot.

What makes them look like a modern tie.

Romanians adopted the ancient Roman tradition of wearing ties.

Then only Croats.

Further existence

Fashion reached England 150 years after France. The British began to make ties of unusual colors and designs from wool, silk and satin. It was at this time that a large number of knots were invented, where Byronovsky became the most famous.

In 1827, Honore de Balzac wrote the book The Art of Wearing a Tie, where he gives recommendations on what to wear with a tuxedo or tailcoat and describes all types of accessories.

In 1924, the first patent was obtained for a tie, consisting of three pieces cut along the bias.

In the modern world

The tie has undergone many changes throughout its long history, but has always remained the most important part of the image of a man. After all, the corporate code in the modern world requires a suit and tie.

Node types

There are more than a hundred in the world various kinds nodes and when selecting it is necessary to pay attention to factors such as:

• proportions of the face and neck;
• material type;
• tie size;
• type of event;
• shirt collar type.

There are 5 most popular types of knots:

1. quarter. Suitable for office suits in daily life;
2. Windsor. Ideal for formal events;
3. small. Has the shape of a triangle;
4. Prince Albert. Combined with a long shirt collar;
5. Eldredge. The most complex and beautiful knot is suitable for celebrations.

Wearing rules

At present, there are no strict canons regarding form or color.

It is worth adhering to only the following general rules:

• the color should be lighter than the jacket, but darker than the shirt;
• a wide tie knot is suitable for thick men, and thin - narrow;
• shirt buttons must be buttoned;
• the narrow end should be threaded into the loop and not visible to others;
• for a tie with a pattern, you should choose a plain shirt;
• the width should be the same as that of the lapels of the jacket;
• the corners of the shirt should not be covered with a knot.

Important: the end of the tie should reach the belt buckle.

Accessories

Clip (hairpin) and pin are traditional elements menswear and designed for fastening.

1. The clip or barrette is the most popular and simple accessory.

   The color should be in harmony with the watch and the ring.