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Hello, dear readers!
Without a proper cut, any clothing looks unsightly - poor fit on the figure, creases or tension in the fabric - all this spoils appearance sewn product.
Therefore, in the process of creating clothes, the leading role is occupied by the design of clothes, the main task of which is to ensure the correct fit of the product on the figure.
Clothing design- this is the development of drawings of details (lakala) of clothing for an individual or standard figure. The connected parts of the product are called design
. For example: the front, back and sleeves are details
and a blouse is a construction of connected parts of the front, back and sleeves.
Clothing construction arose with the advent of tailored clothing. The simplest design was considered to be the clothing of the ancient Greeks and Romans, which consisted of pieces of fabric various lengths and width.
The development of cut began with the creation of tight-fitting clothing to distinguish between men's and female beauty. The clothes now have side seams and a center seam on the back.
As man and society developed, the shapes and styles of clothing improved, and systems and cutting techniques emerged in design. Today in the clothing industry there are dozens of design methods, which can be divided into three categories:
Calculation and graphic method
engineering method.
Dummy method is a method of creating clothing by laying out fabric on a human figure or on a mannequin. From a piece of fabric (often this fabric is muslin) a product is formed according to an artistic design, giving the product a shape through folds or darts, cutting off excess fabric, marking the position of the design lines and thus obtaining patterns. This technique allows you to create cut details for a specific human figure, taking into account all its features.
The dummy method is considered costly because it is cut off a large number of fabrics.
At the core engineering method lies the principle of unfolding volumetric surfaces onto a plane, i.e., a drawing of a clothing design is an unfolded shell of a future product. To give you an idea of what a surface development is, look at the picture of unfolded geometric surfaces.
But not all surfaces can be turned flat, so they resort to the method of folding and breaking the surface - in the design of clothing these are darts, seams, pulling or tucking the fabric. There are several techniques for engineering the design of clothing, which differ in the way the surfaces are deployed. Engineering techniques are used in three-dimensional design of clothing, which allows you to unfold surfaces on the monitor screen and obtain ready-made drawings of clothing parts.
The engineering design method is mainly used for scientific research, solving problems of existing methods and for developing designs for mass-produced products.
All methods of clothing design differ in the accuracy of the cut; engineering is among the most accurate. The development of clothing designs is carried out by designers who have knowledge of anatomy and anthropometry, methods of clothing design, understand the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics, and much more. As a rule, professional designers work in factories for mass production of clothing, in fashion houses, ateliers and author's workshops.
In individual tailoring, most often the design of clothing is not developed due to the fact that many clothing models do not have significant differences in the design of the main details, cut, they differ only in model features.
And a large number of clothing models can be represented by a limited number of basic designs. Therefore, in individual tailoring, the calculation and graphic method is most often used, in which many techniques have been developed for creating basic designs. And the basic patterns are already modeled in accordance with the model features of the future product.
Clothes modeling- this is a change in the design lines of the basic drawing of the product under new model of any complexity.
Construction lines- these are contour lines of parts (mainly seams), dividing the surface of clothing into separate parts (parts), creating its three-dimensional shape and characterizing its appearance.
The significant difference between designing and modeling clothing is that in modeling the design drawing is not built, but modified. I will give as an example my modeling experience, using a drawing of the basic design of a dress and the laws of modeling, I received three completely different dresses.
To summarize the above, I would like to add that, of course, having a special education in clothing design is a big plus, but for beginners in sewing and for those who simply sew for themselves, it is more convenient and simpler to use existing calculation and graphic methods - take measurements and substitute them into formulas on the basis of which to construct a drawing. But a logical question arises: what methodology should I choose to build a basic structure? Any experienced seamstress will tell you that it is best to use several techniques. For example, many for sewing shoulder products they use the EMKO method, and for waist ones - “Muller and Son”, and some even combine several methods to build one design. But I found the best answer to this question in Oksana Tsareva’s blog, where she talked about her diploma work, in which one of the points was a comparative analysis of various methods of designing clothes. Having selected the five most popular methods, Oksana used them to build the design of the same model of clothing and sew it for the same person. As a result, it was impossible to distinguish the finished clothing models by what method they were cut, and the fit in all cases was almost the same. Therefore, it is not so important what method you use to build basic patterns, what is more important is - take measurements correctly, determine your body type and make the right allowances for a loose fit.
As I fill out the blog, I will try to consider several methods for constructing various basic designs, but for now you can use Tatyana Roslyakova’s technique for constructing a pattern for the base of a dress.
Half girths (we divide girth measurements in half and get half girths):
Rice. 1
Ssh - half neck circumference
Сг1 - half chest circumference first
Сr2 - half chest circumference second
Сг3 - half chest circumference third
St - half waist circumference
Sat - half hip circumference
Lengths:
Rice. 2
Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Lts - back length to waist
Accident - shelf length to waist
Rice. 3
Widths:
Shp - shoulder width
Shg - chest width
Shs - back width
Rice. 4
Heights:
Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest 
Rice. 5
Vpks - shoulder height oblique back
Rice. 6
Vg - chest height
We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1−4. When taking measurements of the circumference of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to take Special attention the fact that the measuring tape should be positioned strictly horizontally in the narrowest/widest place (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, you do not need to tighten the tape, as this may lead to narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the designed line of the shoulder seam.
Increases in looseness of fit
The increases depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. For example, we will take average values. We also need to take into account that we use increments to build half of the product.For an example of how to build a dress, we will take size 48 (this is size 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.
Measurements:
Sh = 18.5 cmСг1 =45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
Shs = 18.3 cm
Vpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm
Increases:
Pg = 6.0 cmFri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm
Calculation for creating a mesh:
Mesh width (A0a1) = Cr3+Pg=48.0+6.0= 54.0 cmBack width (A0a) = Shs+Pshs=18.3+0.8=19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2)= Шг+(Сг2-Сг1)+Пшп=17.3+(50.4−45.9)+0.3=22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2)= Shpr=Shset-(Shsp+Shpol)= 54.0-(19.1+22.1)=12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5*Pdts =21.5+2.0+0.5*0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts+Pdts = 42.9+0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
Hip line position (A0B) = Dts/2−2 = 42.9/2−2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A"H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be set aside after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will set aside the length of the product from point A1.
Meshing
Step 1
Rice. 7
The first construction point is point A0 and from it we set the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.
To the right of point A0 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the backrest and get point a.
To the left of point a1 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
Segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.
Down from point A0 we set aside the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).
From point A0 downwards we plot the position of the chest line on line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on segment A0G, the position of the waist line is plotted and we obtain point T.
And we postpone the position of the hip line from point T on the segment A0G and get point B.
From point a1 down we also set off the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.
From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2 we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
First and important stage The mesh construction should look as shown in Fig. 7.
Drawing the backrest
Step 2
Rice. 8
From point A0 we put it to the left on a line of 0.5 cm - this is the outlet of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".
From point A0" down along the line A0H we plot the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4*Dts = 0.4*42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. We connect point Y to point A0" with a time line.
We build the depth of the neck of the back A0"A = A2A1 = 7.2/3 = 2.4 down from point A0" on the line A0"U. We complete the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a pattern curve.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 8.
Step 3
Rice. 9
From point T to the left on the waist line TT3 we set aside a bend along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.
To construct the middle seam of the back, we put a bend from point H to the right equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and get point H1. We draw the middle back seam through points A-U-T1-H1.
From the neck of the back, along the middle seam, we put the length of the back down and get point H (the correct length).
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 9.
Step 4
Rice. 10
We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck opening = 13.3+2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the dart opening is equal to 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk+ Pvpk, where Ppvk=Pdts+Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in in this case=0), and we get 43.2+0.5 = 43.7 cm.
At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1 we place point P1.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 10.
Step 5
Rice. eleven
We begin the construction of the shoulder dart by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, let's take the value 4.0 cm.
When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the tuck opening = 2.0 cm. We put point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Next, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to increase the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.
We connect the sides of the darts with the neck points A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular; we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. eleven.
Step 6
Rice. 12
We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build point P3 = 18.9/3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. We set point P3 from point G1 from the chest line to segment G1a1.
From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with length = Шр*0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8*0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.
Auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the armhole width, i.e. Шр/2 = 12.8/2 = 6.4 cm.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 12.
Step 7
Rice. 13
The back armhole line is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 13.
Building a drawing of a shelf
Step 8
Fig.14
To construct the chest center point, the distance G3G4/2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from point G3 to the right and we get point G6.
For products of the dress group, we draw up a descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we put 0.5 cm down from point T3 and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.
To construct the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh/3 + Pshgor = 18.5/3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, we move from point A3 to the left horizontally and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3" from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 14.
Step 9
Fig.15
The position of the highest point of the mammary glands is set aside from point A4 with a radius equal to Br = 27.5 cm and we obtain point G7.
At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the dart opening from point A4, we find point A9.
We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get a chest dart for the front.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 15.
Step 10
Rice. 16
To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. To do this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Next, this distance G4P4/3 = 6.0 cm and we put this distance from point G4 up and get point P6.
Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.
We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 16.
Step 11
Fig.17
To construct the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.
From corner G4 to construct the armhole we draw a bisector Шр*0.2 = 12.8*0.2 = 2.6 cm.
Through points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 17.
Construction of lateral lines
Step 12
Rice. 18
We will start constructing the side lines along the chest line from point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From point G4 downwards we draw a vertical line, this is the center line of the side seam.
At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.
To design the side seam, take 0.4*R-r outt waist = 0.4*11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete dart solution in the side seam. To do this, 4.6/2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.
Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, in order postpone the expansion along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.
In this example of construction, we will leave the dress with a straight silhouette at the bottom, so along the hem line along the side seam we set aside the same values as along the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.
Through points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the front and back.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 18.
Step 13
Rice. 19
To construct a dart along the back waist line, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21/2 = 21.8/2 = 10.9 cm and get point T4.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r out waist - R-r out waist side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8/2 =1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.
The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is 15.0 cm - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 19.
Step 14
Rice. 20
To construct a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf; to do this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the hip line - we get point T5.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the line waist size vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side-R-r vytal sp = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.½ = 1.55 and set it aside from point T5 and we get points T51 and T52.
The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 20.
Step 15
Rice. 21
To construct relief lines, it is necessary to translate part bust dart shelves. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the back dart = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.
We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the transfer radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.
Now from point A4 we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we obtain point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get a shoulder line to the shelf relief line and a section of the shelf relief.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 21.
Step 16
Rice. 22
To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.
We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 22.
Rice. 23
The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look as shown in Fig. 23.
Step 17
Rice. 24
Next, you need to transfer the main parts of the shelf, the side of the front, the back and the side of the back onto tracing paper and add seam allowances.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 24.
If these are your first steps in design, then the design needs to be checked, that is, sew the dress from mock-up fabric and try it on to be sure that there are no errors in calculations and construction.
Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the facings of the neckline and armholes of the back and front. And also, if desired, decorative elements - yokes, flounces, piping, etc.
Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva
The design of clothing is a device whose main characteristics are silhouette, cut, relative position of parts, their structural structure, type of connecting seams and materials.
The basic basis for the design of clothing is the rational design of its main parts, which is created once every 3-4 years, taking into account the modern dimensional typology of the population and optimal allowances. Any structure can be built various methods, which are divided into 2 classes according to the nature of the initial information.
1st class methods, which are based on the use of discrete measurements of typical figures, increases, data on the typical division of parts and the method of their formation. Class 1 methods or approximate construction methods include dummy, computational and graphical construction methods.
2nd class methods(engineering) are based on direct measurements of the shell and developable surface of the sample - the standard of clothing and are more accurate. These include methods of triangulation, cutting planes, geodetic lines, auxiliary development lines, development of clothing parts using model samples, etc.
The process of constructing drawings of developments of clothing parts using 1st class methods can be divided into three stages:
The initial data for calculations when constructing a base drawing are the dimensional characteristics of typical figures and the magnitude of structural additions to them, which are selected depending on the silhouette, cut of the designed product, and the type of material used.
The main difference between design methods is the use of initial data, which differ in quantity and methods of determination, as well as the sequence of constructing the basic framework and the presence of preliminary calculations.
Dummy method
Creating a model and obtaining scans of its parts in accordance with the artistic design is carried out by prototyping the product on a human figure or on a mannequin. The experimental way of creating a model allows us to fully take into account the anthropomorphic features of the human figure and the natural ability of the fabric to form; does not require any calculations; makes it possible to carry out visual three-dimensional prototyping of almost any model, regardless of complexity. Despite the apparent simplicity and accessibility of this method, its use requires good artistic taste and great professional skill. The accuracy of obtaining scans of clothing parts is not high enough; the method is labor-intensive and requires many numerical adjustments in the process of creating clothes.
The dummy method is used in the manufacture of theatrical costumes, modeling and design women's clothing, where details, darts and draperies of complex shapes may be found, when designing clothes for a figure with abnormal deviations, when designing corsetry. (Figure 2.2).
Calculation and graphic methods
History of the emergence of design methods.
In 1800, the London cutter Michel developed a cutting system called Drittel. The author divided half the chest circumference into three equal parts (1/3 each for the width of the back, armhole and front). This was the first "grid" for graphically constructing clothing design drawings. By dividing the original pattern into cells with the same side, you can proportionally increase or decrease this pattern as you wish.
Based on this method, a new cutting system is subsequently created - cellular. In this system, the rectangle was further divided into 6 parts and 18 small cells were allocated at the top and 2 large ones at the bottom. This made it possible to fix the shape of the cutting details when scaling in size.
A distinctive feature of the “Muller and Son” method is the mirror image of the location of the back and front in the drawing. This technique uses the values of full girths and widths. To measure the figure, the principle of spherical trigonometry was used, and the construction of development drawings was carried out using arc serifs on three sides of the triangles. The vertices of the triangles were the nodal points of the design parts, and the sides were the measurements of the human figure. Both versions of the trigonometric system used a large number of measurements, especially arc measurements.
In Russia, the coordinate system of the Levitanus brothers and the Langridge system are most famous. These systems provided for the construction of a drawing using individual points found by geometric construction in a rectangular coordinate system.
The development of mass production of clothing required new approaches to design. Taking measurements from the customer became impossible. Measurements of a specific figure were replaced by calculations based on proportional dependencies on the leading dimensional characteristics - chest girth and height (see figure below). This led to the emergence and formation of varieties of coordinate systems: calculation-measure and proportional-calculation systems. They were based on the idea that the figures of people of the same size and height without significant differences in physique can be accepted as conditionally normal and, in principle, considered the same.
The proportional-calculation method had many varieties and, as it were, developed previous cutting systems. Improvement went in the direction of studying and taking into account the structure of the human body, finding a more correct division of parts and assemblies of the product, and introducing new additional projection dimensions. This method was used for many years until material on mass anthropological measurements was accumulated, which convincingly proved that proportions in human size do not exist. Since 1959, TsNIISHP has been working to create a unified methodology for designing men's, women's and children's clothing (EMCO). EMKO was based on a calculation-analytical method, according to which design drawings are constructed by geometric developments of the smoothed contour of a human figure with allowances for a loose fit (SO) and decorative design.
The disadvantages of this technique include:
- cumbersomeness of graphical constructions and calculation formulas;
- lack of accuracy in constructing the basis;
- clarifications are required during the production of prototypes;
- difficulty in choosing bonuses for CO.
Modern methods of clothing design
In Russia, the most widely used method for designing clothing from the Central Scientific Research Institute of the Garment Industry and the unified method for designing clothing made to individual orders, developed by the Central Experimental Technological Sewing Laboratory ( TsOTSHL) based on the TsNIISHP methodology and differing from it by replacing individual calculation formulas with measurements of the figure and some simplification of the formulas.
Subsequently, the so-called unified methodology for designing clothing of the CMEA member countries (1980-1986) (UMKO CMEA) was developed, summarizing the design experience of the member countries of the former CMEA and other states.
CMEA methodology ( EMKO SEV) - a unified methodology for designing clothing of the CMEA member countries, which made it possible to automate the development of design drawings and formed the basis for many modern systems computer-aided design. In the EMKO SEV method, the values of full girths and widths are used.
In the computational and graphic design method created by the central experimental and technical sewing laboratory ( TsOTSHL) the correspondence of clothing to a person’s figure is ensured by taking 10-18 measurements (measurements) from him.
In the TsOTSHL and EMKO SEV methods, the construction of the structural basis is carried out according to a system of main structural segments; all necessary calculations of the parameters of the base grid are carried out directly in the process of constructing the drawing.
Modern technique "Muller and Son" significantly different from the previous one. It contains significantly fewer measurements and tables have been developed for constructing a bust dart with adjustments for non-standard busts. Figure measurements were replaced by calculations based on proportional dependencies on leading dimensional characteristics. The advantages of this technique are accurate calculations and clear construction of the basic principles, which makes it possible to use it in the industrial production of clothing. The downside is the cumbersome construction, requiring calculations and the inability to make corrections for a non-standard figure directly into the drawing.
A method of clothing design developed in MTILP, is based not only on the use of dimensional characteristics of a figure, but also on taking into account data on the development of surfaces of mock-ups of typical figures. The MTILP technique is characterized by the unconventional nature of the sequence of construction of individual drawing nodes, including drawing the lines of the base grid. Preliminary calculations are not highlighted in the methodology; thus, the position of the main vertical and horizontal lines of the base grid is determined based on a series of sequential calculations in accordance with the sequence below:
It has been established that the design of the base, built according to the EMKO SEV method, is intended for figures with normal posture and low shoulders. The design of the base according to the TsNIISHP method is preferable for figures with an upright posture. Low shoulders, full arms and developed breasts. According to TsOTSHL - with straight posture, normal shoulder height, thin arms and normal development mammary glands. Method "M. Muller and Son" is preferable for figures with a stooped posture, high shoulders and weak development of the mammary glands.
For design development knitwear the most accurate and reasonable is the methodology developed by the former All-Union House of Knitwear Models (VDMTI). The VDMTI methodology outlines a method for calculating and constructing product parts using calculation formulas mainly of the first type, taking into account the extensibility group of knitwear. This ensures the greatest reliability of the connection between individual measurements of the figure and the corresponding sections of the drawing, and a sufficient degree of accuracy of calculations. Elements of graphic constructions - drawing the base grid line, determining the position of the design points of the drawing by arc notches and the method of pattern curves. A distinctive feature of the basic grid of the shoulder clothing design drawing is the presence of additional verticals passing through the center of the shoulder blades (on the back) and the center of the chest (on the front), and the initial horizontal corresponding to the neck-shoulder line.
Engineering methods
- Developable surface method.
- Triangulation method.
- Method of cutting planes and geodesic lines.
Triangulation method
A general technique for constructing an approximate technical development is that a given surface is divided into separate elements and replaced with elements of conditionally developing surfaces, which are then developed. The accuracy of the approximation depends on the number of elements that break up the curved surface.
Cutting plane method
Proposed in 1954 by A.I. Ivanova. This method is one of the first attempts to obtain a development of clothing parts using descriptive geometry and drawing methods. Each section of the selected part of the figure is conventionally equated to a developing geometric surface and is sequentially developed and laid on a plane.
Geodetic line method
The essence of the method is to model on the surface a number of geodetic lines with a given step and sequentially construct scans of selected surface areas bounded by geodetic lines on a plane. This method later found its application in scanning and obtaining information about the figure.
Method for calculating developments of clothing parts using model samples
The essence of the method is that two mutually perpendicular warp and weft threads of a mesh-canvas or other material are fixed on the developed surface along the accepted orthogonal geodetic axes. When the mesh is completely aligned with the surface, the threads of this mesh form a Chebyshev network on it. Such a network can be laid in rectangular axes on a plane and a surface development can be obtained. Using a mesh-canvas, a Chebyshev network is modeled directly on a given surface while observing the theoretical conditions for its construction and simultaneously adjusting the part on the same surface taking into account technological requirements.
Table 1 - Basic methods of clothing design
| Name of the technique | Developer | Purpose | Construction methods used | Number of dimensional characteristics |
| Calculation and graphic methods | ||||
| TsOTSHL | Central experimental technical laboratory. | advance paynemt; Graphic techniques: applying a basic grid; - determination of the position of design points by arc serifs; - construction of pattern curves; -radiography. |
18 | |
| Designers from various countries of Eastern Europe | mass production | Graphic techniques: - drawing a basic grid of construction lines; |
28 | |
| MGUDT- Moscow State University of Design and Technology | mass production | - based on use dimensional characteristics of the figure - determination of the position of the design points of the drawing by arc serifs (radiusography method) |
26 | |
"Muller and Son" |
G.A. Muller | Mass and small-scale production | based on the use of special measurements female figures; measurement performance characteristics do not correspond to modern data design standards. | 17 |
VDMTI (methodology for designing knitted products) |
former All-Union House of Knitwear Models | Mass production | calculation and construction of product parts using calculation formulas of the first type, basic grid lines; determination of the position of the design points of the drawing by arc serifs and the method of pattern curves. | 25 |
Dummy method |
- | Custom production | prototyping on a human figure or on a mannequin. | - |
Engineering method |
||||
Triangulation |
- | Custom production | the surface is divided into separate elements and replaced with elements of conditionally developing surfaces, which are then developed | - |
Section planes |
A.I.Ivanova | Custom production | Methods of descriptive geometry and drawing | - |
Geodetic lines |
- | Custom production | modeling on the surface of a number of geodetic lines with a given step and sequential construction of scans of selected surface areas | - |
Have you tried building structures on a computer?
Of course, most of you will say that you use CAD for this. But is this method always available? For example, at home or in small studios? For this CAD is a very expensive pleasure.
In this case, the graphics editor CorelDRAW can come to our aid. It will reduce the time for constructing structures, simplify the modeling process and save you from paper and pencil red tape.
You can also print finished patterns (patterns) at a scale of 1:1 on a home printer without distortion.
More than 500 designers and fashion designers have already tried it in action, but do you want to?
Come to the mini-course “Designing a Skirt in CorelDRAW” and you will see with your own eyes all the Power and Advantages of this method
hidden Sources used
- Koblyakova E. B. Designing clothes with CAD elements / E. B. Koblyakova, A. V. Savostitsky, G. S. Ivleva. Moscow: KDU Publishing House, 2007.464 p.
- Kurenova S.V. Designing clothes: a textbook for universities / S.V. Kurenova, N.Yu. Savelyeva. Rostov-on-Don: Phoenix, 2003.480 p.
Clothing design is the process of designing a drawing, which is a development of the surface of the human body, taking into account the allowance for freedom of fit and movement.
There are two main directions in design:
- for industrial production using standard dimensional characteristics
- and for individual tailoring based on measurements taken from a specific figure.
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Clothing design concept
The design process involves creating a basic design based on custom or standard measurements. The purpose of design is to design a drawing that most accurately describes the shape of the body, embodies the silhouette, design and model lines of the product. Quality finished product depends on the accuracy of the measurements taken of the figure, on the chosen design method and the correctness of the calculations.
The correct design of sewing and knitwear must meet certain criteria.
- Take into account the technical properties of the material, from hygroscopicity to plasticity.
- Have the correct balance and fit.
- Ensure the product is comfortable to wear.
- Reflect the designer's idea in proportions and lines.
- Be technologically advanced in production.
To implement a high-quality product, basic design skills, knowledge of technology and materials science are required.
Stages of designing and modeling clothing
- Analysis of a technical drawing created by a designer.
- Analysis of fabrics and materials from which the product will be made.
- Study of technological methods and components used for sewing a specific product.
- Selection of design methodology.
- Taking body measurements or selecting standard measurements.
- Creation of the drawing grid and basic structure.
- Base modeling.
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Modeling is one of the stages of designing parts, which is expressed in drawing additional model lines on the basis of the drawing. On one base, using modeling, you can create many product variations.
Depending on the manufacturing method and the tasks assigned, the next steps include making patterns and checking the design on a mock-up.
If a clothing model is being prepared for mass production, then the modified patterns are graded by size and height. The outermost ones are checked again, with sewing and fitting of the product.
Clothing construction methods
In the modern domestic and world school of cutting, two fundamental clothing design systems are used:
- fake;
- calculation and graphic.
Dummy methods are used to create products of the highest quality, in individual production, to evaluate the external properties of materials, for example, elasticity, drapability, stretchability. Calculation methods underlie all mass production techniques, including modern CAD techniques.
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All existing design systems are based on the creation of a flat drawing that most accurately describes the three-dimensional figure of a person or object. The accuracy of the implementation is checked when creating intermediate mock-ups or trying on the product. The result of the development of the design and patterns are the cutting details that are assembled into the finished product.
History of design methods
The first methods of creating clothes were dummy cutting methods. The principle of moulage is the pricking of material onto a figure to create volume, draperies, a whole product or details. After fixing the fabric, the contours are transferred to paper for correction or worked directly with the fabric. It is also known as the dummy, moulage or tattoo method. This method is still used today for some types of products:
- for copying a historical costume;
- in corsetry;
- with individual tailoring;
- into “haute couture” level products with complex draperies;
- when using new materials.
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Later, at the beginning of the 19th century, computational and graphical methods for constructing clothing designs emerged. They were first created by practicing tailors who transferred the experience of hand-cutting into the simplest formulas. Each country at that time already had its own craftsmen and its own cutting systems. In Europe the following became famous:
- British "Drittel" system;
- French system;
- German technique "Muller & Sohn".
With the industrialization of the early 20th century, techniques for tailored tailoring were gradually developed for use in garment factories. In the USSR and the CMEA countries, a unified CMEA EMKO methodology was developed, which is followed in Russia today.
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Modern methods of clothing design
Several calculation and graphical methods are used in the CIS:
- EMKO SEV for mass production;
- EMKO TSOTSHL;
- EMKO for individual tailoring;
- VDMTI for knitted products;
- German "Muller & sohn".
Each country has its own schools of cutting and tailoring, which work with recognized local techniques. Each of them has its own characteristics.
The next stage in the development of methods for designing clothing drawings is the improvement of CAD, automated clothing production systems. CAD systems are based on various calculation methods. The choice of a specific design system depends on the type of production and the preferences of the designer. The advantages of CAD in modern clothing production lie in the rapid use of standard design operations: changing bases, modeling, grading patterns.
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Three-dimensional projections and developments of clothing exist and are actively used. Modern methods 3D design and modeling are used with the help of computer programs in the industrial design of any three-dimensional objects, not just clothing and accessories.
The process of making clothes is fascinating, and each of us can find a lot of interesting things in it for ourselves. To make wardrobe items, clothing design and modeling are used.
The process of creating clothes
First, the clothes are modeled, and the design of the clothes is the second stage in its creation. This process allows you to draw up a drawing of the future product and make patterns according to which cutting will take place. Patterns are templates for clothing parts that are made from cardboard, paper, film, wallpaper and other materials.
There are differences in the design of clothing for mass and individual tailoring. When mass tailoring, the following requirements are imposed: clothes must be made according to precise calculations, the patterns must be correct. Construction men's clothing assumes that the manufactured products will fit well on the body, will be comfortable to wear and will be easy to care for, and will fit well on the human figure.
Modeling
The basis for producing quality sewing products is modeling. This is an art that requires special knowledge, and many strive to master it.
The design and modeling of clothing works directly with the person. It's no secret that with the help of a properly selected suit you can significantly change the perception of a person.
Modeling begins with preparation. At this stage, the fashion designer decides who will wear this model of clothing, what it is intended for, and what materials will be used to make it. Having decided on the answers to these questions, the artist creates a sketch.
There are certain requirements for all sketches. This is clarity and completeness, the complete embodiment of the artistic concept. Also, if the model will be produced under conditions, it makes sense to find out how cost-effective it will be to produce it. And after that, the design of clothes begins. This is the sequence of the creative process.
Clothing construction methods
The creative process of creating clothes has deep roots. It is known that clothing design has a long history, and various methods have been developed over the centuries. There are two large groups methods of clothing design: approximate and engineering.
Approximate methods can also be different. The oldest of them are considered to be dummy ones, when measurements are made on a human figure or using a mannequin.
It must be said that the design of clothing in the usual sense began to take shape only in the twentieth century; before that, precise measurements for fit on the figure simply did not exist. Clothes were created using folds and folds.
Clothing design methods began to develop in the early nineteenth century, when the London cutter Michel came up with the first "grid" for clothing drawings. He applied the principle of scale: the original drawing was divided into cells with the same side, and it could be increased or decreased at will. In 1840, the famous cutting system of G. A. Muller arose, who used the principle of spherical trigonometry to construct a drawing.
In 1959, the design and modeling of clothing was studied by the central experimental-technical sewing laboratory, which applied it. Its disadvantage is that the graphic constructions in it are cumbersome, the accuracy of constructing the base is relative, and it is difficult to choose allowances for a loose fit.
Modern design methods
IN last years Engineering methods are becoming increasingly widespread. Many believe that in the future all measurements will be carried out using a 3D mannequin. This method will include the method of developable surfaces, the method of secant surfaces, and the triangulation method.
Computer-aided manufacturing (CAD) is now widely used to design clothing. It is based on techniques that were once developed by Michael Müller, a famous German tailor. Nowadays the Lyubax cutting system is also used, which involves visually measuring the figure before creating a pattern.
Designing children's clothing
Children's clothing is designed on the same principle as clothing for adults, but it requires knowledge of the physical and psychological development of the child. Not only artists and fashion designers, but also pediatricians, educators and teachers take part in the development of the concept of children's clothing.
When modeling and designing children's clothing great importance has a ratio of different children. Therefore, all children for whom clothes are created are divided into five groups.
This nursery group(age up to 3 years), up to school group(up to six years old), a junior school group, which includes children from seven to eleven years old, a teenage group, which includes children from twelve to fifteen years old. There is also a youth group, which includes children from sixteen to eighteen years old.
There are a number of requirements for children's clothing. It should warm in the cold and cool in the heat, and protect from bad weather. Due to the fact that children wear out clothes quickly, it is recommended to sew them from inexpensive materials. Often used to create folk art, this is inexhaustible for master fashion designers.
Patterns as a unit of measurement
The main unit of measurement in modeling and design is the pattern. They come in the following types: original patterns, control and working patterns.
The basis for creating any costume is a basic pattern. An experienced specialist can identify the clothing manufacturer at first glance, taking into account the quality of the basic pattern. The patterns are created taking into account all the features of the human figure.
Nowadays, when creating patterns, experts turn to modern technologies, especially to computers. Using computers in pattern making has its advantages. So, this is an opportunity to accurately adapt the patterns to the characteristics of a particular opportunity to show the result of the work to the client at any stage. This type of pattern can be used much longer than paper ones; they do not wear out and cannot be replaced.
A pattern made electronically makes it possible to virtually lay out material on fabric, which can simplify the cutting process.
Modeling by Burda Moden
Various systems for modeling and designing clothing have not helped create clothing that is comfortable for the majority of the population. And then Burda Moden magazine came to the rescue.
The magazine has made a name for itself in the field of women's clothing design. He entered the fashion arena in the post-World War II period. At this time, not all women had the money to buy a new beautiful clothes, while everyone wanted to look stylish.
In 1950, Burda Moden magazine was published and immediately attracted attention. Now it remains popular, this is due to the fact that the magazine reflects modern tendencies in the world of fashion. Moreover, all models are adapted to real life, and you can immediately sew the model and use it.