Step 1.
To create a block, we will need 4 types of fabric (preferably in a contrasting color).
We cut out 2 sets of stripes, 4 stripes in each set. Width - any (I have 2 ""). It’s best to cut strips along the grain, but if you don’t have enough fabric, you can also cut them perpendicular to it.
Step 2.
We sew the strips together in the required sequence. For more precise stitching, I recommend using a 1/4-inch foot and be sure to pin them together before sewing the strips perpendicular seam lines.
After stitching, iron one set of strips in one direction, the other in the other.
Step 3.
We lay out the stitched strips on the mat so that the edge of the strip lies exactly along the marking line. Determine the width of the strips (mine is 6.5 ") and using a ruler and a roller cutter, cut the strip into squares. From the first and second set of strips, cut out 4 squares. Total - 8 squares.
Please note that the square must be a square!! Deviations are not allowed, otherwise the seams will not meet.
To avoid confusion, we arrange the squares in two piles (although in the photo it is one big pile :-)).
Step 4.
We take one from the first stack of squares and place it on the mat so that the marking lines exactly coincide with the edges of the block.
We place the ruler diagonally across the square and slowly, cut the square diagonally.
Set the cut triangles aside. From the same stack we take the second square, again place it along the marking lines and place the ruler along the other diagonal.
Please note that we place the second square on the rug in exactly the same way as the first (for me, with the brown stripe at the top).
Cut the square diagonally and set the resulting triangles aside.
We repeat this operation with all the squares from the first and second pile. You should end up with 16 right triangles.
Step 5.
We assemble the cut triangles into squares.
We collect squares into blocks. 16 right triangles make 2 blocks.
If you suddenly decide to save money and sew this block of 4 squares cut into triangles, then you will be disappointed. This is not possible! But in everything you can find positive sides. With this cutting, you get not one, but two blocks.
The blocks turned out to be mirrored. The mills in the center of the block twist in different directions. Beautiful?
Step 6.
We disassemble one of the blocks into elements and sew the triangles together so that we get squares again. Special attention pay attention to the seams. In order to get a “lock” and the strips to fit together better, it is necessary that the seams of the triangles being sewn face in different directions. We fix them with pins and stitch them.
We perform a similar procedure with the remaining elements.
Step 7
So, you should end up with 4 squares of the same type as in the photo.
Turn on the iron and iron the seams on all squares so that they look clockwise or counterclockwise.
Step 8
At this stage, you need to use a ruler and a knife to trim all the squares.
To do this, place it on the rug markings so that the diagonal seam coincides with the 45 degree line and carefully trim it on all sides.
Place our future block on the mat again.
Step 9
We sew two squares together so that we get horizontal rows. Do not forget to first pin them together with pins and combine all the “locks”. Ideally, after sewing, all your seams should come together. Particular attention must be paid to the point where the three seams meet (see photo). Everything must be perfect, otherwise the seams will not come together. Iron the seams in different directions.
We sew two rows of blocks together. For better convergence of the seams at one point, the horizontal seam must lie exactly at their intersection (see photo)
Open the seam and iron it. Gently iron the block off the face and.... The block is ready!!
If you use it in the future, check whether it is even. If not, trim it!
The finished block measures 11.5 x 11.5 inches.
I’ll also tell you about one option for creating a block of stripes.
I have already described many of the stages of creating a similar block above, but since I wanted to create a full-fledged master class, some stages will be repeated.
Step 1.
To create a block, we will need four types of fabric.
We cut the fabric into strips of any width. For this block, I cut strips 1 3/4″ wide. Since I use a special patchwork foot, my seams are always the same at 1/4″. When sewing blocks, I never use a bartack (to allow the seams to “open up”) and set the stitch length to 2-2.5 mm.
Step 2.
We sew the strips together sequentially. If you are not confident in your abilities, or are a beginner, I urgently
I recommend that you chop off the strips before you start sewing! The pins should always be positioned perpendicular to the future seam line, then the machine needle will easily “skip” them.
Carefully, trying not to stretch the fabric, iron the seams to one side.
We place the strips sewn together on the rug so that the edges of the strips coincide with the marking lines. Using a ruler, knife and mat, cut off the excess and cut the strips into squares. To create this block, we will need 4 squares.
After you have cut the required number of squares, be sure to check if they are square? If yes, then you can proceed to the next step, if not, then you definitely need to trim them!
We stack the cut squares in the same way (for example, with a light green stripe at the top, like in my photo). We take the first square from the stack, place it along the marking lines and use a ruler to cut it diagonally. We also cut the second square diagonally, but in a different way (see photo)! You should end up with 8 right triangles.
If you make a mistake when cutting, you will not be able to put the block together.
Let's try to put triangles together to form a future block. Beauty!!
Now we sew the triangles together, after pinning them together with pins. Don't forget about the "locks"!!
Surely, when chopping the triangles together, you will find that there are no “locks” in sight! And you will be right. With this cut, “locks” are not automatically obtained. And you need to iron out the seams on some of the triangles... But! If you decide to take a swing at William Shakespeare... :-) (I mean a blanket), then you better have two sets of strips from which you will later cut into squares and then triangles. For one of them, the seams should be pressed in one direction, for the other, in the other. In this case, you won’t have to iron anything!
After the triangles are sewn together, we fold our future block again and smooth out all the seams either clockwise or counterclockwise (see photo).
Step 9
Even though we use a ruler, a knife, a mat, we measure everything exactly... sometimes we have to trim what we sew!
All the squares are trimmed and all that remains is to sew them together. We don’t hope for a miracle and don’t forget to pin everything with pins. It’s better to spend 30 seconds than to sit and flog for 5 minutes.
Be sure to monitor the convergence points of several seams. Ideally, everything should turn out as in the photo.
Step 11
After assembling the block, we pick up the central seam and carefully (without stretching the block) iron the seams. Voila!!
pay attention to reverse side block. You should get about the same thing.
After the block is ready, be sure to lay it out on the mat and check the dimensions. If it’s crooked, let’s figure out why (by the way, you could write a whole opus on this...). If necessary, we trim it!!
The finished block measures 9.5 x 9.5 inches.
That's all for today!
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The bright colorful cover for the sofa cushion is sewn, like other patchwork items in this selection, by the talented needlewoman Rebekah. Let's look and admire: 
Materials and tools:
Sew the squares together and press the seams:
Fold the square flaps and connect
Sew a stripe from contrasting fabric,
Iron it.
Roll it up and put the cord inside.
Then lay the resulting edging with the upper part and side parts. Sew.
Place on the pillow and sew up the edge
It turned out to be an excellent sofa cushion.\!
Having accidentally seen a blanket made of pom-poms on the Internet, I also got excited about the idea that such a miracle must be made. There were also a lot of descriptions, some detailed and some not so detailed, as well as pictures of finished products, based on which a plan for further action was formulated.
Well, now I want to tell and show what happened in the end in my photo master class on making a blanket from pompoms.
I want to say right away that the process of making such a blanket is quite labor-intensive and not fast, despite at first glance - so be prepared to be patient and persevering. And also be prepared for the fact that it may not be possible to avoid small calluses on delicate fingers)))
To make a blanket of pompoms measuring 80*80cm I needed:
A knocked together wooden frame measuring 90*90cm, along the perimeter of which, at a distance of about 4 cm, you need to drive small nails. I ended up with 22 nails on each side of the frame.
And of course you will need yarn. In my case, the above size required 5 skeins of acrylic yarn, 350m each (100g) and half a ball of thin acrylic threads in the color of the blanket (but you can also use required amount thread from the above skeins)
And of course the manufacturing process itself:
We fix the thread on the outermost nail on either side of the row and start with a snake, moving from top to bottom and back to fix the thread, moving from one side of the frame to the other. When you reach the end of the row of nails, carefully transfer the thread to the adjacent nail, and now fasten the threads not vertically, but horizontally. In this way, we wind all five skeins layer by layer, connecting the ends of the skeins into one thread (horizontal stand of threads - vertical layer and again horizontal - vertical). We fix the end of the thread by tying it well on a nail.
This part of the process is quite simple and takes little time.
The most difficult things lie ahead.
Please note right away that you need to leave a certain number of threads for the next stage of production, or choose another skein that matches the color. I took a small skein of thinner thread.
Let's proceed to the second stage of making a blanket from pompoms. To do this, we cut the thread into pieces of 10-15 cm, and use them to tie each intersection of the layers of thread on the frame. Since I had 22 nails in a row, I ended up with 400 thread crossings, each of which needed to be tied with a strong knot.
It was precisely this stage that I wrote about above as the most difficult, because, believe me, it is impossible to tie 400 strong knots in one evening, and your hands and fingers get pretty tired. Therefore, be prepared to stretch this pleasure over several evenings. It took me a week, despite the fact that I knitted knots in the evenings for two to three hours.
Well, when all the knots have been tied, there remains the third stage, which will seem simple and quick to you. All you need to do is take scissors and methodically cut the threads between the knots in the center from one row to the next, forming pompoms. In this case, we cut not all the threads, but 2/3 of them, since the pompons should be formed only from the front part of the blanket, and from the back there remains a layer of threads that form a “frame” on which the pompons will be held.
I left the outer rows with thread knots for last, so that when cutting the pom-poms, the blanket would be well fixed to the frame. At the very end, we cut the layers of thread along the perimeter between the nails - the tension of the threads will be weakened - the pompoms will take shape and become closer friend to friend.
And now the blanket is ready! Fluffy soft pom poms will delight not only you, but also your baby! And of course, it’s worth noting that the look of the blanket evokes only admiration!
Video to help
Blanket with two-color pompoms ready for discharge! (MK)
Today I finished my work.
This is the blanket we will wrap our baby in when she is discharged.
To knit such a blanket you will need:
Yarn (I had 10 skeins of 150m each - 100% acrylic, you can also take acrylic with wool - 2 white, 2 coral and 6 peach. Subsequently, I bought another white skein for tying the intersections)
A sheet of plywood, I have a thickness of 18mm, size 80*80cm (more is possible, but accordingly it will take more threads!)
80mm nails (in short, I don’t recommend it because the threads will fly off.
Help from a spouse or other male person to drive nails into a sheet of plywood (perhaps there are especially gifted young ladies who can do carpentry work, alas, I’m not one of them)
And your desire, patience and of course hardworking hands))
1. I had yarn in three shades.
2. Here is a sheet of plywood, the nails are already hammered in. For me, the distance between the nails is 4 cm, maybe 5, then the pompoms will be a little larger. And we begin to wind the threads, first in rows horizontally, then vertically, alternating. I advise you to start with white threads or any contrasting from the main color of the blanket.3. Macro.
20 rows of white yarn were wound, we started winding coral yarn)
4. Continue... after two skeins we wind the main color - peach (well, this is mine, but you may have a different shade of thread) 
All the yarn has been wound... 
5. We bandage all the intersections (very tightly, I bandaged it twice). At the intersection points, there are 2 times more threads.
If we take the classic version of knitting this blanket, a total of 50 rows should be wound vertically and 50 horizontally, (of which 20 rows are the lowest in a contrasting shade), i.e. Accordingly, at the intersections there are 100 threads. I got more.
6.
After all the intersections are tied, we begin to form the pompoms. We just stretch the top 30 threads (to the white yarn) - I didn’t get 30, but more, exactly in the middle between the intersections. Be careful, one wrong move and this cute product could be... spoiled. That's all! If anything is unclear, please contact me, I’ll help you. 
Wrong side 
Additions to the post at the request of girls - How to remove a blanket from nails
Now we move on to the next stage of work. We cut our blanket from the nails. We go along the entire perimeter of the frame and where it is marked with a red line in my photo, we cut it in half.
We have completed most of the work, now we are waiting for cutting the pompoms. We take scissors, preferably not very sharp and not dull))). Scissors also cause a lot of chafing on your fingers, so take breaks when cutting. We cut 30 threads from our knots on four sides, without touching the base, otherwise nothing will work.
Now I’ll explain why we took threads of a different color for the warp: in order not to count 30 threads each time, we simply see by color where the warp is and don’t touch it, we only cut the other color that we wound after the warp.
I also show in the photo exactly where to cut, the red line indicates the location of the cut. That is, we cut the small sides of the resulting squares in the middle.
Thus, we cut our entire blanket and in the end we get such a wonderful fluffy blanket made from pompoms with our own hands.
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What is associated with pleasant dreams, comfort and bliss? Of course, a bon blanket. It will warm and decorate the interior, it will be useful for a newborn baby to walk during the cold season, and it can become a comfortable mat for the child’s development. Just choose a model that is suitable for children and adults.
The bom blanket looks great in a nursery. As for the choice of colors, it can be made monochromatic or multi-colored by choosing two or three colors that match each other or match the tones of the interior. And thanks to its light, airy structure, adults will also like it. The model in cream or pink tones looks like a marshmallow treat and will definitely appeal to a teenage girl.
This original blanket is a variation patchwork quilts. But the special technique of its manufacture turns this model into an airy and elegant interior decoration. After all, the highlight of this type is not just the colorful shreds, but the fact that it consists of components that look like small ottomans or bright bubbles.
It has different names: bombon, biscuit blanket, ottoman blanket, bonbon, and even marshmallow blanket. Therefore, by choosing the color and material in accordance with your personal preferences, you can sew with your own hands a wonderful, warm and beautiful blanket for your beloved child.
Gallery: bonbon blanket (25 photos)
How to sew
You will need the following materials and tools to sew a bombon blanket; the master class will be presented below:
- fabric for small pillows is plain, two or three colors, to choose from;
- fabric for the base, you can take any cotton fabric, even an old sheet, it will not be visible;
- holofiber or padding polyester for filling the pads; it is not advisable to use cotton wool, since after washing it will form clumps and the product will lose its appearance;
- threads in colors matching the fabric;
- needles for fastening fabric;
- scissors;
- pencil;
- ruler.
Of course, you will need a sewing machine, free time and the desire to make a beautiful and original thing.
Schemes for making a blanket
First you need to decide what the product will look like. If you plan to sew a blanket from multi-colored scraps, it is better to draw a diagram on paper. Form finished product will be square or rectangular, and if alternation of colored fragments is expected, then this needs to be thought out immediately on the diagram in order to produce the appropriate number of elements.
Squares for pillows should have a side not less than 8 cm and not more than 40 cm, with other parameters the blanket will not have beautiful view. A universal calculation based on the expected size of the blanket is as follows: the width of the base fabric should be one and a half cm larger than the size of the material that will be used to sew the top, that is, the sum of all squares, plus 2 cm for seam allowances.
When choosing a fabric, you should be guided by the purpose of this wonderful thing; for example, silk and satin are good for adults; such a blanket will be very elegant. For kids, it is better to opt for bright chintz. You can sew it from scraps of unnecessary fabric; this option will be the most economical.
Basic methods
There are two techniques for sewing a product with your own hands, which differ from each other in the ways of making blanks for the product:
Sequential stitching
Let's look at the step-by-step instructions for the first option of sewing a bombon blanket. Master class, in in this case, is based on making a product for a child. Let's say there are three colors of cotton available. The blanket will consist of squares with a side of 17 cm, eight in width and ten in length.
In the diagram they will alternate with diagonal stripes, from right to left, and the first square in the upper right corner will be from fabric No. 1, the next two squares in color from fabric conventionally called No. 2, then again diagonally striped from fabric No. 1, and the fourth diagonal from color No. 3. Let's start again: a diagonal of squares in the following sequence - with colors No. 1, No. 2, No. 1, No. 3.
We repeat this alternation in the diagram for the size of the blanket we need. Thus, there will be 80 squares: 40 from fabric No. 1, and 20 each from fabric No. 2 and No. 3. Decide for yourself which fabric will have which number.
Now let's start cutting.
Make a pattern of a square with the selected side and cut out the required number of squares from fabric of different colors. Fold the first horizontal strip of squares according to the diagram and sew. Press seams to the right. Assemble the next horizontal strip from squares of the desired colors, also assemble into a ribbon, just smooth the seams to the left. This will help you sew the strips together later so that the seams look nice.
Draw the fabric chosen for the base into squares with a side of 11 cm. You need to leave a 1 cm seam allowance in length between each row. Leave an allowance of 4-5 cm on the sides so that you can later make an edging to decorate the finished product.
Take a strip sewn from squares and attach it to the base so that the drawn stripes coincide with the boundaries between the squares on the strips. But the free part of the fabric needs to be folded into two neat counter folds or gathered when sewing.
It is better to secure the strips to the base with needles, because depends on how smoothly all the stripes are stitched appearance finished product.
We sew a strip on one side horizontally, and then attach it along the vertical stripes in exact accordance with those drawn on the base.
It should work out pockets that need to be filled with holofiber. Carefully tuck it inside and stitch the remaining side. Now the next strip according to the same pattern to make a beautiful colored blanket.
To finish making the blanket faster and have fewer seams, you can sew on the next strip, closing the remaining cut for stuffing with one seam. Then you need to secure all intermediate results with needles so that the tapes do not move.
When all the prepared ribbons were stitched, it turned out beautiful product, all that remains is to trim the sides. You can sew the second side to the blanket from the wrong side, and between them a layer of padding polyester, so it will become even warmer.
Ottoman blanket
Now recommendations for sewing a bonbon blanket from small pillows. You need to cut out a square template with an arbitrary side, for example, 10x10 cm. You can take fabric of two or more matching colors, but from all the multi-colored scraps you will get a colorful and cheerful blanket. This will fit well into a rustic interior, for example, in a summer cottage.
Decide on the dimensions and cut out the required number of squares. Moreover, the front part of the pads will be sewn from beautiful fabric, but for the opposite, any plain and even unnecessary sheet is suitable. This side will not be visible, since the pillows will need to be sewn onto the base.
MIRACLE BAG
How cute: a purse with a straw border, fun pompoms and crocheted flowers.
YOU WILL NEED:
For a jute bag: red grosgrain ribbon 2 cm wide, 65 cm long; elastic cord 1 m long; braided jute cord 1.2 m long; fringed braid approx. wide. 5 cm, length 65 cm; narrow braid with beads 65 cm long; 2 crocheted flowers; sewing threads; thick needle for embroidery or darning. For pompoms: wool yarn of various colors and a fork.
HOW TO DO:cut out the details of the jute bag:
Circle for the bottom of the bag, dia. 18 cm
The top of the bag is 62 cm wide, 22 cm high.
For the top of the bag, sew the 22 cm long sides face to face (seam width 1 cm). Iron allowances. At a distance of 11 cm from the bottom cut, pin a braid with fringe. Tuck the ends of the tape at the seam. Stitch the top edge of the braid. Hand sew beaded braid along the top edge of the fringed braid. Gather the top of the bag along the bottom edge, for which, at a distance of 8 mm and 12 mm from the bottom edge, sew with long stitches, leaving the ends of the threads hanging. Pull the fabric onto threads finished form width is approx. 50 cm. Distribute the clusters evenly. Sew the bottom to the bottom cut of the top of the bag. Stitch the ends of the grosgrain ribbon, the finished edging is 60 cm wide. Fold the ribbon in half widthwise and iron. Place the ribbon around the top edge of the bag and stitch with a zigzag.
Lay the top of the bag flat so that the seam is in the middle on the back side, mark the side folds. Elastic cord cut into 2 equal parts. At a distance of 5 cm from the top edge of the bag, thread the cords into the fabric of the bag according to the markings using an embroidery or darning needle. Tie the ends of the cords in knots so that when stretched the bag is extended to its full width.
Sew flowers to the front of the bag, crocheted. For the handle, sew the ends of a braided jute cord at a distance of 6 cm from the top edge of the bag to mark the sides from the inside of the bag.
Make pompoms: wind the yarn around the fork several times. Secure the numerous loops that appear in the middle with thread. Cut the loops on both sides, if necessary, trim the ends of the threads evenly.
Sew two pompoms to the bag. Sew one pompom to the ends of the elastic cord.
When tassels, pompoms, etc. come together, the effect is guaranteed!
YOU WILL NEED:
remnants of straws of natural, hot pink, turquoise and yellow flowers. Hook No. 4; matching thread for sewing; a needle with a blunt end. Two golden hooks for earrings, golden sequins. Golden beads, 2 rhinestones of blue color. Sewing needle small scissors.
HOW TO DO: crochet from straw natural color chain of air p. Wrap straw around the chain in a spiral, while sewing individual circles with a needle with a blunt tip and sewing threads. When the ring is 4.5 cm in diameter, sew up the ends of the straw. Make the second circle in the same way.
In the middle of both circles, hand-sew crocheted flowers using small stitches. Sew on beads, sequins and rhinestones. Tear the pom-poms off from the braid, cut them to shape and also fasten them onto circles of straw. Tie three small tassels from multi-colored straws; attach these tassels, along with the finished tassels, to the bottom edge of the straw circles. Attach earring hooks to the top edge of the circles. 
IN TWO ACCOUNTS
Straw clothing for all bracelets! Choose according to your taste - with tassels, with ornaments or with pom-poms.
Bracelet with pompoms
YOU WILL NEED:
plastic bracelet 2.5 cm wide; red straw; thick darning needle. For pompons: wool yarn of different colors, fork.
HOW TO DO:
wrap the bracelet tightly with straw, sew the ends of the straw on the inside of the bracelet. Make pom-poms, see the “Miracle Bag” model, and while tying, leave the ends of the threads hanging for a length of approx. 10 cm. Attach pompoms to the ends of the threads on the bracelet.
Crochet bracelet
YOU WILL NEED:
plastic bracelet 2.5 cm wide; orange and green straws; hook No. 4; thick darning needle.
HOW TO DO:
knit a row of air from green straw. p., row length = bracelet diameter. From the wrong side from each air. p. knit st. b/n. Close the row into a circle. Pull the knitted circle onto the bracelet and place it in the middle. Thread the orange straw into a darning needle. On one side, stick art into the loop. b/n, draw straws with inside around the bracelet and on the other side, insert the needle into the same loop. In this way, sew the ring on the bracelet, sew the ends of the straw on the inside of the bracelet.
Bracelet with tassels
YOU WILL NEED:
bracelet, straw. Black embroidery thread, darning needle, scissors, ruler.
STEP 1 From each skein of straw, cut 7 pieces 12 cm long and tie them on a bracelet, alternating the colors and direction of the ends.
STEP 2 Trim the ends of the segments using scissors.
STEP 3 Sew embroidery thread around each knot on both sides of the bracelet.
Photo: Jan Schmiedel (7); catwalkpix.com (2); execution: Teresa Bachler.
Far not every studio can sew to order a quilted bedspread, and if you can persuade him, the price for the work, not counting consumables, can be staggering.
Any person who can deftly handle scissors and a needle can sew a quilted bedspread with their own hands;-)
The simplest bedspread - rectangle made of fabric, preferably tapestry. It can be cut out and sewn without lining.
If you want to have a silk or satin bedspread, more elegant, and also with a frill along the edge, you need to additionally stock up on padding polyester and fabric for the lining.
For the bottom layer, a simpler fabric is usually selected.
Below step-by-step instruction intended for those craftswomen who are starting to create for the first time quilted bedspread independently, bringing your own ideas into the work.
Preparing for work
Taking measurements
STEP 1 Before you sew a quilted bedspread, you need to prepare everything you need. First, it is advisable to determine how much and what kind of fabric to take.
Bed measurement We arm ourselves with a measuring tape and measuring the bed or a sofa along, across and in height.
On a piece of checkered paper in the selected scale building a drawing for clarity.
It turns out to be a rectangle, with strips attached to its sides, the width of which corresponds to the height of the bed or sofa.
Planning fabric consumption
STEP 2 Depending on the design of the bed, sometimes it does not make sense to sew a frill on the side of the back or backs if it is a corner sofa.When transferring dimensions to paper you need to add 3-5 cm to the length and width of the main fabric to fit the fabric during the sewing process. Frill height, on the contrary, is better reduce by 1-3 cm.
You can immediately draw on the drawing the lines along which the bedspread will be stitched.
The drawing itself should consist of squares or diamonds of absolutely the same size.
It is easier to choose a convenient size on paper, where an unsatisfactory result can always be corrected.
Scheme on paper When calculating fabric consumption, you need multiply the total length of the frills by 1.5.
Perhaps, for sewing them, the strips that remain after cutting the main fabric will be enough.
- If the fabric width is 140 cm, the quantity of material for the frills is calculated separately and added immediately, so as not to scold yourself later.
When choosing a fabric, you need to pay attention to its width.
- So, for a double bed, a width of 140 cm may not be sufficient, and additional seams may adversely affect the appearance of the finished bedspread.
It is better to immediately take a width of 280 cm.
We cut and sew
Layer cutting
STEP 3 The complexity of the work depends on what fabric you plan to use to create the masterpiece.
Bedspread cut pattern If you choose satin or silk, the materials are quite slippery, and the cutting process must be approached with caution.
It is most convenient to fold the fabric in half lengthwise so that the length of the upper part from the fold line is equal to half the required length.
You can do the same with width. Then, closer to the cutting line, connect the layers in several places with pins or needles.
Cut only on smooth surface, under no circumstances should you do this by weight!
In the same way, the padding polyester lining and the bottom layer are cut to size, but there is no need to allow for shrinkage.
Stitching the layers
STEP 4 Armed with a needle or sewing machine(if anyone is more familiar), we combine all three layers into one, making a seam along the edge.This is necessary in order to fix the shape.
Marking the drawing
STEP 5 Now you can start marking the design on the fabric.Only a top-class seamstress can afford to quilt a bedspread directly on a machine. The rest will have to be patient and have a template cut out of thick paper based on preliminary calculations.
Drawing stitches The template (square or diamond) must be life-size.
Starting from one of the corners along the front side of the product, we apply our workpiece and, trying to capture all three layers, “draw” lines with a basting stitch.
Once we have outlined it, we move the square (rhombus) close to the line on one side, and the adjacent side to the edge, and sew again.
And so on until we reach the opposite corner.
- The future blanket should be on a smooth surface while working.
Stitch
STEP 6 It's time to sew the resulting long lines across the entire blanket on a machine.
Stitch - If possible, try to stitch as close to the basting as possible, but without stepping on it, then the auxiliary thread will be easily removed.
Sew on the frill
STEP 7 All that remains is to sew on the frill. The required length does not have to be measured on a single piece of fabric; large scraps can also be used.
Frill Main requirement: All typesetting strips must be cut in the same direction. Longitudinal or transverse - not so important.
Decorating the bedspread with a pleated or finely gathered frill is a matter of taste and habits of the craftswoman.
Sometimes the frill is not sewn to the bedspread at all, but is attached directly to the bottom of the bed.
As a workout
It's difficult to get a perfect result the first time.
Who doesn’t want to take risks, maybe before sewing a silk quilted bedspread, first practice on, for example, for a crib.
Technique patchwork (patchwork) allows you to fill your hand with even long seams using an almost finished drawing, or rather, prepared on the basis of an idea.
Patchwork technique For patchwork sewing any used items in the house are used, and scraps from old jeans will give strength to the bedspread if they are “fitted” into the overall scheme.
- Assembling a canvas from scraps of fabric prepared in the form of identical (pattern) squares, rhombuses, rectangles or triangles is easier than obtaining identical shapes on fabric sliding in your hands by stitching on a typewriter.
If the work went smoothly the first time, and the result inspired new products, then the craftswoman has succeeded!