Technological sequence of manufacturing dresses table. Technological sequence of processing a female dress of an adjacent silhouette. Processing with one-piece facings of the neck and armholes of the dress - a master class

Appearance description

Everyday women's dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette, with a sleeve of a basic cut, detachable along the waistline with a zipper fastener in the middle seam of the back.

The adjoining silhouette shape of the product is provided by shaping elements (tucks) on the front, back, front and back parts of the skirt (see figure), as well as the middle seam of the back. For ease of use, the dress has zippers: one long one along the middle seam of the back or two - in the middle seam of the back and in the left side seam.

Note: The dress can be made not cut along the waistline.

1. When printing a pattern in A4 format, check "Actual size" (or uncheck "Fit to page") in the print settings. Print a test page, measure the sample square - it should be 10x10 cm. After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the indicated order: the letters (A / B / C +) indicate the column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) indicate the row . The first (top left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.

2. When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in AdobeReader (or FoxitReader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Page Size and Handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes "Cutting Marks", "Labels" and "Split Large Pages Only". If you have any questions, check out our FAQ page!

Parts specification

MAIN MATERIAL

  1. Shelf - 1 piece (with a fold)
  2. Back - 1 piece 9 with a fold)
  3. Sleeve - 2 parts (with or without a tuck)
  4. The front of the skirt - 1 piece
  5. The back of the skirt - 2 parts
  6. Turning the neck of the shelf - 1 piece
  7. Turning the neck of the back - 2 parts

The width of the facing of the neck of the shelf and back is 4 cm.

When cutting, add seam allowances of 1 cm, along the turning line of the cut of the neck of the shelf and back - 0.7 cm, along the bottom of the sleeve - 4 cm, along the bottom line - 3 cm.

To make a dress you will need:

- about 20 cm of adhesive cushioning material (with a width of 90 cm);

- two hidden zippers (16-18 cm and 20-24 cm) or one (45-50) cm

The average consumption of the base material depends on the size of the product and the width of the material. For products of medium and big size you will need one product length (measured along the back from the seventh cervical vertebra) + sleeve length (from the shoulder point) with a material width of 140 cm.

Variants of laying out the details of the cut

Option for laying out patterns on the material in a turn


Option for laying out patterns on the material in a fold along the warp thread


Technological sequence of dress processing

The product processing technology (operations performed and sequence) largely depends on the properties of the selected material, its thickness and flaking.

Therefore, the technological processing sequence for this product will be presented in tabular form, which will allow you to see the main differences in the processing of products from light (thin) and heavy (thick) materials.

Attention! The technological sequence is given on a cut-off dress along the waistline with two zippers

(in the middle back seam and left side seam)

Light (thin) materials

Heavy (thick) materials

Neck trim blank

1. Duplicate the facings of the neck (shelves and backs) with hot-melt adhesive gasket material.

2. Stitch the details of the facing of the neck (shelves and backs) along the shoulder cuts. Iron the seam allowances.

3. Overcast the bottom and side cuts of the finished facing of the neck.

Shelf processing

4. Stitch the upper (shoulder) tucks on the shelf. Iron the allowances towards the center.

5. Sew waist tucks on the shelf. Iron the allowances towards the center. (Fig. 1)


Rice. one

Back treatment

6. Overcast the middle section of the right and left sides of the back.

7. Sew waist darts on the back. Iron the allowances in the direction of the middle cut.

8. Mark the end of the zipper on the middle cut of the back with a control sign.

9. Stitch the right and left parts of the back from the bottom line to the control mark. Iron the seam allowances.

10. Sew a hidden zipper into the middle seam of the back.

Note: To simplify this operation, use the advice. In a hidden braid-zipper, the teeth of the fastener are at an angle of 90 degrees to the braid. If before stitching hidden zipper iron it out, i.e. equalize the location of the teeth with the plane of the braid, then stitching the zipper will be much easier.

Skirt blank

11. Overcast the middle section of the right and left back of the skirt.

12. Sew darts on the front of the skirt.

13. Press the tuck to the center.

To reduce the thickness of ready-made iron the allowances in the opposite direction, i.e. in the direction of the side cuts.

14. Sew darts on the back of the skirt.

15. Iron the tuck towards the middle seam.

To reduce the thickness in the finished form, iron the allowances in the opposite direction, i.e. to the side cuts.

16. Stitch the right and left parts of the skirt along the middle cut. Iron the seam allowances.

17. Sew the front and back of the skirt along the right side cut.

18. Overcast the sections and iron them towards the back.

19. Overcast the left cut of the front of the skirt.

20. Overcast the left cut of the back of the skirt.

21. Mark the end of the zipper with a control sign.

22. Sew the front and back of the skirt along the left cut from the control mark to the bottom.

23. Iron the seam allowances.

Overcast the side sections of the front and back of the skirt.

Stitch the front and back of the skirt along the right side seam. Iron the seam allowances.

On the left side, mark the end of the “zipper” braid with a control sign.

Sew the front and back of the skirt along the left cut from the control mark to the bottom. Iron the seam allowances.

Sleeve processing

24. Stitch darts on the sleeves. Iron the allowances down.

25. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom cut, overcast the cuts, seam allowances iron.

Overcast the bottom edges of the sleeves. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom edges. Seam allowances iron out.

Product installation

26. Stitch the front and back along the shoulder seams.

27. Overcast the sections and iron towards the back.

Overcast the shoulder sections of the shelf and back.

Stitch the front and back along the shoulder seams.

Iron the seam allowances.

28. Stitch the neckline of the dress with a stitch (Fig. 2). Iron the seam allowances towards the seam.


Fig.2

29. Sew the seam allowances on the seam. Fasten the facing along the side cuts to the allowances of the middle seam of the back.

30. Iron the neck of the finished dress.

31. Stitch the shelf and back along the right side cut.

32. Overcast the sections and iron towards the back.

33. Overcast the left edge of the shelf.

34. Overcast the left cut of the back.

35. Mark the beginning of the “zipper” braid with a control sign (usually at a distance of 5-8 cm from the top).

36. Stitch the shelf and back along the left cut from the top to the control mark.

37. Iron the seam allowances.

Overcast the right and left sections of the shelf.

Overcast the right and left sections of the back.

On the left side, mark the beginning of the “zipper” braid with a control sign (usually at a distance of 5-8 cm from the top).

Stitch front and back along right side seam.

Sew the front and back along the left side cut from the top to the control mark.

Side seam allowances iron out.

38. Sew the top and bottom of the dress along the waist line.

39. Overcast cuts.

40. Sew a hidden zipper into the left side seam.

41. Iron the finished knot.

42. Sweep, and then sew the sleeves into the armholes.

43. Overcast cuts.

44. Mark the line of the bottom of the sleeves.

45. Stitch the bottom of the sleeve with a seam in the hem with a closed cut.

Overcast the bottom of the sleeve.

Note the allowance for processing the bottom of the sleeve. Hem the sleeve with hidden stitches.

46. ​​Mark the bottom line of the dress. notice.

47. Topstitch the bottom of the dress with a hem seam with a closed cut.

Overcast the bottom edge of the product.

Note the allowance for processing the bottom of the dress. Hem the dress with hidden stitches.

48. Iron the finished dress.

1. The middle part of the front - 1 piece with a fold, turning the cutout of the half of the front - 1 piece with a fold.

2. The side of the shelf - 2 parts.

3. The middle part of the back - 2 parts, facing the neckline of the back - 2 parts.

4. The side of the back - 2 parts.

Seam allowances: hem hem 2 cm; on the seams: 1.5 cm, on the remaining sections: 1 cm.

Preparing the product for fitting

In preparation for fitting, all operations of wet-heat treatment that create the shape of the product as a whole and its individual elements must be performed. The shape of the chest designed in the product, the bulge in the area of ​​the shoulder blades and the back, as well as the three-dimensional forms in other areas, created by wet-heat treatment, must be finalized.

In addition, in preparation for fitting, all constructive lines, tucks must be finalized. All other constructive and shaped lines on the shelves and back can only be sour cream.

Preparation for fitting also includes tacking all the decorative and finishing details that determine the renewal of the product.

AT light dress, depending on the type of repair, for example, folds, tucks, reliefs, sides, fasteners, etc. can be completely processed. However, in a light dress, with a complex update, it is allowed to confine oneself to sweeping shaped and structural lines and details. For fitting in a light dress, all decorative and finishing details are also swept, side and shoulder seams are swept, the bottom of the product and sleeves are swept.

Processing relief seams

Stitched relief seams should be at least 1 cm wide. If the reliefs are located on symmetrical parts of the product, then on one part the relief seam is made from top to bottom, and on the other - from bottom to top. When sweeping a relief seam of a complex shape, the most oblique cut of the part should be on top. When sewing, the line is placed next to the basting line, and it is performed along the most direct cut. (Appendix 2, Fig. 3).

Ironing the seam is performed according to the model. As a rule, vertical seams are ironed towards the middle of the front or back.

Processing of side and shoulder seams

By connecting the shoulder sections, the back and the shelf of the product are folded with the front sides inward, the sections are equalized and, distributing the fit, they are cleaved with pins, after which they are swept away from the back. Grind the shoulder sections from the side of the shelf with a seam 1.5 cm wide. If there are tucks along the shoulder sections of the back and shelves, then they must be processed before basting and grinding the shoulder seams.

To protect the product from stretching while wearing, the shoulder seam is recommended to be performed with two machine lines. After sewing, the seam is ironed and, as a rule, ironed towards the back. Slices of allowances are overcast.

In products made of easily stretchable fabrics, the shoulder seams are additionally reinforced with strips of a denser fabric or cotton braid. The strips are applied to the wrong side of the front so that the cuts of the strip and the shoulder are aligned (i.e., the edge is directed away from the cut), and in this position the parts are swept away. After basting and grinding the shoulder sections of the front and back, the allowances of the shoulder seams together with the edges are ironed, then ironed towards the back and all three sections are overcast.

To connect the product along the side sections, the front and back are folded with the front sides inward, the control marks are combined, the sections are equalized, cut off with pins and swept from the side of the front. Stitching is carried out from the side of the back with a seam 1.5 cm wide, after which the seam is ironed. (Appendix 2, Fig. 4).

Neck and armhole processing

Neckline: Stitch the neckline front facing to the back neckline, iron the seam allowances. Stitch the facings face to face on the neck, combining the shoulder seams of the facings and the dress. Cut seam allowances up to 0.5 cm, cut the rounding several times. Press the facings upwards, stitch them into the stitching seam from the front side, while grabbing the seam allowances. Thanks to this seam, the facings will not twist to the front side. Wrap the facings on the wrong side and stab in the area of ​​​​the motive.

Rice. one.

Fold the product so that they are aligned: side sections, armhole section, shoulder sections. Outline the bottom of the product. Overcast the lower cut on special. car and iron. Next, bend the bottom of the product by 2 cm and, turning the edge of the hem, hem it by hand blind seam. Iron the bottom of the product.

Rice. 2.

Product finishing

The finished product is cleaned of threads, the ends of the threads are cut, traces of chalk lines are removed.

Final wet - heat treatment.

The final WTO is carried out with an electric iron on special equipment. table. The shoulder seam should be well ironed.

To iron the side seams, the dress is put on the ironing table or block with the front side up. Side seam is ironed towards the back

The bottom of the product is ironed from the front side through the iron.


One of the favorite types of processing the neck and armholes of a sleeveless dress for many tailors is. This type of processing allows you to completely hide the seams, and the neck and armholes of the dress look very neat with this processing.

Processing with one-piece facings is also used when sewing sleeveless dresses with a lining, while the lining is cut minus the facings and attached to the facings along the lower allowances.

School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati
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Processing with one-piece facings of the neck and armholes of the dress - a master class

For our master class, we prepared a fabric in two colors to more clearly demonstrate the processing process. When sewing a product, facings are cut, as a rule, from the main fabric.

Cut out the facings according to the pattern taken from the pattern of the front and back of the product. Allowances for seams to give the same as on the main product. The width of the piping without allowances is about 4 cm. It will cut out the piping of the front with a fold, and 2 piping of the back, if a zipper is provided along the back of the dress. If the zipper is located on the side of the dress, the back facing is also cut with a fold.

Rice. 1. One-piece facings reinforced with thermal fabric

Rice. 2. Stitching the side seams of the dress

On fig. 1. ready-made facings are shown. Duplicate all facings with thermal fabric. Cut out thermal fabric without allowances for seams along the neck and armholes (to avoid excess thickness).

IMPORTANT! Before processing the neckline and armholes of the dress with one-piece facings, sweep and try on the dress, make all the relief seams and darts according to the style, grind side seams, sew a zipper on the back. Shoulder seams remain open (!)

Stitch the side seams on the facings. Place the facings on the product with the front side to the front side (Fig. 3). Sweep over the head and proma, not reaching 3 cm to the shoulder seams (Fig. 4).

Rice. 3. The facings are put on the dress with the right sides

Rice. 4. Stitched facings

On the neckline and armholes lay a machine line, also not reaching 3 cm to the shoulder seams. When you reach the zipper, lay a line 2 mm to the right of the line. which has a zipper attached. The teeth of the zipper should be inside the facing (Fig. 5).

Cut the allowances for the neck and armholes and cut into a corner (Fig. 6)

Rice. 5. Attach facings

Rice. 6. Cut the allowances and cut to the corner

Turn over the facing to the wrong side and lightly iron to fix it in this position without basting (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Reedging the seams of the neckline and armholes of the dress

Rice. 8. Pull the shoulder seams out

Fold the shoulder seams together, put your hand under the facing and pull the play seams out (fig. 8) Sew in pairs the shoulder seams of the dress and the facings of the front and back (fig. 9).

Rice. 9. Stitch the shoulder seams of the dress and facings

Introduction

Model selection and appearance description

1 Rationale for choosing a model

2 Rationale for material selection

Technological sequence of product processing

1 Cutting

2 Preparing the product for fitting

3 Processing relief seams

4 Processing side and shoulder seams

5 Processing the neck and armholes of the product

6 Processing the bottom of the dress

7 Product finishing

Tools and equipment used in the processing of the product

1 Workplace for manual work

2 Workplace for machine work

3 Workplace for ironing work

Product Handling Safety

1 Safety rules for working with a needle and scissors

2 Safety precautions for using the sewing machine

3 Iron safety rules

Building the base of the dress

Conclusion

Bibliography

Appendix

dress seam hand finishing

Introduction

The history of the appearance of the dress goes back many, many years, but from this it has not lost its relevance. The man who invented this type of clothing was a genius.

The word "dress" in ancient times had a completely different meaning than it has now. Any clothing was called a dress. It could be a caftan, and pants, and a sundress, and a frock coat. The dress was what we now call the toilet.

The origins of the history of the appearance of the dress originate from ancient Greece. Then the dresses worn by both men and women were made from a rectangular piece of cloth, and fastened on the shoulders with a beautiful buckle.

In the Middle Ages, a person was judged by a dress. His financial condition, the degree of his "freedom", his social position, marital status, and much more were assessed.

The dress of the Middle Ages was influenced by the spread of Christianity in Europe. In connection with the change in views on a person, the appearance of the dress has also changed. Its color, cut and shape have become more complex. All sorts of lacing appeared on women's dresses. Such a concept was born in dress modeling as a “case suit”.

The history of the appearance of the dress was also noted in Russia, in the 16th-17th centuries. The Russian sundress became a favorite form of clothing for women - one of the types of dresses. It is noteworthy that at first it was truly men's clothing. By appearance sundresses were quite diverse. They could also be with short sleeves, and with long, and oar on buttons, and "deaf". Finished dresses were decorated with lace, gold thread, precious stones.

The Renaissance era, which put forward its own type of dress, did not remain unnoticed in the history of the appearance of the dress. It was supposed to emphasize the shape of a perfect and beautiful female body. For tailoring dresses, heavy expensive fabrics began to be used, as well as numerous laces as decoration.

Wealthy women used cotton wool in their dresses to give the figure the desired shape and fullness.

In the 18th century, rigid lines began to prevail in dresses. Women of this time wore uncomfortable metal corsets to emphasize the shape of their bodies. But such a dress with hard Spanish collars was very uncomfortable, so it quickly went out of fashion.

The 19th century came, which also did not fail to leave its mark on the history of the dress. Dresses, like all suits, are becoming simpler and more functional. This is influenced by the emergence of mass production of clothing. The century is characterized by industrial production of clothing and a rapid, sometimes rapid change in fashion. The struggle for the functionality of the dress, its simplicity and convenience affects the production of dresses. They become more democratic, and women are interested in how to choose the right dress according to the type of figure and not “get lost” in the presented variety of styles.

Currently, fashion designers are increasingly turning to folk traditions, use them in their models and entire collections. But along with this, "elite" collections of dresses in a single copy, called "high fashion", are created.
Any woman will always give her preference to a dress. Only a dress can make a sophisticated and sophisticated lady out of her. Dresses never went out of fashion, they only changed styles, texture and always remained the main thing in women's wardrobe.

Nowadays, dresses can be found in a wide variety. Now the dresses have absorbed all the best. Every year there are new models, thanks to modern technologies cutting and sewing, dresses take on a modern and very fashionable shape.

In the 20th century, when the feminist movement became popular, dresses began to lose their relevance. Dresses were replaced by trousers, shirts, men's jackets and rough shoes. Such fashion clothes perfect for work and leisure. It was convenient to housekeeping and relax in nature. Gradually, women began to forget that only a dress can turn them into truly feminine persons in the eyes of strong half humanity. Women began to wear dresses only in the evenings. Only evening dresses were popular.

For a short time, women enjoyed masculine style of clothing. Over time, they began to understand that there is nothing more valuable than femininity. Dresses began to reappear in wardrobes, now beautiful evening gowns have become the main type of clothing.

Among the variety of models, colors and styles, you can easily find dresses for Everyday life. These are, as a rule, discreet models, dark or pastel colors, below the knee length. They have inconspicuous patterns and patterns. These dresses are suitable for work, study office and other business events. In such a dress, every woman will look feminine and elegant. For special occasions, you can choose a black or white dress that will perfectly fit the figure and meet all the requirements.

It is worth noting that in the summer season dresses differ not only in styles and colors, but also in the texture of the fabric. The fabrics used are light and airy. Models are open and frank. Summer time of the year is the most right time in order to take off baggy clothes and enjoy the increased attention of men. In the summer you can afford to wear short dresses, models with a decollete and other fashionable dresses.

Brands such as Mondigo, Acasta, Savage, Apart, Tom Farr, Axara and others can boast of a variety of modern styles of dresses. All dresses of brands are not similar to each other, they differ not only in styles and models, but also in the texture of the fabric, designer finishes. They are elegant and coquettish, graceful and free, refined and strict. What is the dress for? To make you feel feminine, sophisticated and irresistible again. Proof of your perfection will be the admiring glances of the surrounding men and women.

aim thesis is the development of a technological sequence for processing a female dress of an adjacent silhouette.

For this, the following tasks were set:

reveal the technological process;

draw up a specification and requirements for materials, tools, fixtures, equipment necessary for work;

build the base of the product with a set-in sleeve.

Model selection and appearance description

1.1 Rationale for the choice of model

The main factor in choosing the shape of the product is the silhouette. Therefore, guided by a promising fashion trend, an adjacent silhouette was chosen. When creating a product, it is important to comply with the main functional purpose, which is ensured by the correct choice of the product according to the nomenclature, model, design, material, color.

Of all the variety women's clothing was chosen summer dress adjoining silhouette. The fit of this silhouette is achieved by waist darts. The composition of each presented model is solved on one common constructive basis, only the coloring of the material and its structure differ. Models of this family are distinguished by decorative and functional details.

In addition to aesthetic indicators, one of the main tasks of the costume is design indicators, ease of use, strength, service life, reliability in operation, dimensional stability, the possibility of repair and reuse, and hygienic indicators.

To ensure dimensional stability, the degree of rigidity of individual parts is increased, materials with a low-crease finish are used.

Reliability in operation is also characterized by the strength of clothing and its individual parts, that is, the ability to resist destruction under large instantaneous or short-term loads.

A dress can reveal, emphasize the external data of a person, visually increase or decrease the height, volume of the figure, hide flaws and emphasize dignity. At its core, it should be, first of all, convenient, expedient and functional. Based on the fashion trends for spring - summer 2014, the dress model being developed is the most relevant.

The main task of the suit is to create an atmosphere of physical and mental comfort for the person who wears it, to enhance his external attractiveness, to emphasize his individuality, to match his style of life and behavior.

Clothing must meet certain consumer requirements, which include: aesthetic and design indicators, ease of use, strength, service life, reliability in operation, dimensional stability, the possibility of repair and reuse, hygienic and economic indicators.

Economic factors play an important role in solving the issue of maximizing the requirements for clothing. The economic factor - the cost and availability of a product with high quality - serves such requirements as minimum material consumption and labor intensity in combination with other requirements for clothing.

Sleeveless dress made of costume "Carnival" fabric. Dress with a snug fit along the bust line, a medium fit along the waist line and a tight fit along the hip line, with a button closure. (Appendix 1).

2 Rationale for material selection

The choice of fabric depends on the direction of fashion, the season, the environment, the style of the proposed model, the purpose and nature of the work.

The color of the fabric is turquoise, due to the peculiarity of the fabric, the color shimmers, which is relevant in the next season.

The main hygienic functions of clothing include: protecting a person from mechanical and chemical damage, from exposure to adverse environmental factors, keeping the skin clean, ensuring the normal functioning of the body.

The fabric must have the following hygienic properties: air permeability, hygroscopicity, heat-shielding properties, impermeability, wear resistance, certain strength, washability, ability to form during wet heat treatment.

Therefore, the dress must meet hygienic, operational, aesthetic, functional, technological, economic. That is, the dress should protect a person from the effects of adverse environmental factors; ensuring the normal functioning of the body (skin respiration, gas exchange); ventilation of the underwear air layer; thanks to the choice of material from rep for sewing this product.

The product must provide comfort in wearing due to sufficient freedom of movement and right choice fasteners should provide strength and reliability in operation, characterized by good resistance of materials and seams to breaking loads, dimensional stability of parts and wear resistance of materials.

The designed product is characterized by a minimum area of ​​parts and, accordingly, minimal waste of materials during cutting.

The product is made of suit "Carnival" fabric. Polyester 50%, viscose 50%. By tactile sensations, this synthetic material resembles cotton. Polyester fabric is a polyester synthetic fiber that has the ability to retain its shape when heated to more than 40 degrees. In connection with this quality, polyester fabrics are recommended to be washed at temperatures up to 40 ° C. This material is characterized by a "cooling" effect. Also a distinctive feature of the fabric is resistance to fading under the influence of direct sunlight.

One of the most necessary materials to create clothes are threads. At lung tailoring range can be used silk, cotton, synthetic threads. Different requirements are imposed on sewing threads depending on their purpose. The main requirements for sewing threads are to ensure satisfactory sewing properties and to ensure the necessary strength and wear resistance of seams during operation. In the process of clothing production, sewing threads are used to perform various technological operations: stitching parts, finishing stitches, hemming the bottom, sewing on buttons, making buttonholes, etc.

To ensure high quality and reliability of thread connections in the manufacture of garments, the rational use of sewing threads must be ensured.

Table 1 - Characteristics of sewing threads

Type, conditional number of threads

Breakaway extension.

Coefficient of variation at break elongation

Executable line.

Cotton 50; 60

Estimating

Reinforced with polyester braid 35LL

Stitching, overcasting, buttonhole

Reinforced with polyester braid 25LL

Stitching

Polyester from complex threads 45LL

Button

The designed product uses a button fastener. It has the appearance of a round button on the leg with an inserted rhinestone.

2. Technological sequence of product processing

2.1 Cutting

1. The middle part of the front - 1 piece with a fold, turning the cutout of the half of the front - 1 piece with a fold.

The side of the shelf - 2 parts.

The middle part of the back - 2 parts, facing the neckline of the back - 2 parts.

Lateral part of a back - 2 details.

Seam allowances: hem hem 2 cm; on the seams: 1.5 cm, on the remaining sections: 1 cm.

2 Preparing the product for fitting

In preparation for fitting, all operations of wet-heat treatment that create the shape of the product as a whole and its individual elements must be performed. The shape of the chest designed in the product, the bulge in the area of ​​the shoulder blades and the back, as well as the three-dimensional forms in other areas, created by wet-heat treatment, must be finalized.

In addition, in preparation for fitting, all constructive lines, tucks must be finalized. All other constructive and shaped lines on the shelves and back can only be sour cream.

Preparation for fitting also includes tacking all the decorative and finishing details that determine the renewal of the product.

In a light dress, depending on the type of repair, folds, darts, reliefs, sides, fasteners, etc. can be completely processed for fitting. However, in a light dress, with a complex update, it is allowed to confine oneself to sweeping shaped and constructive lines and details. For fitting in a light dress, all decorative and finishing details are also swept, side and shoulder seams are swept, the bottom of the product and sleeves are swept.

2.3 Processing relief seams

Stitched relief seams should be at least 1 cm wide. If the reliefs are located on symmetrical parts of the product, then on one part the relief seam is made from top to bottom, and on the other - from bottom to top. When sweeping a relief seam of a complex shape, the most oblique cut of the part should be on top. When sewing, the line is placed next to the basting line, and it is performed along the most direct cut. (Appendix 2, Fig. 3).

Ironing the seam is performed according to the model. As a rule, vertical seams are ironed towards the middle of the front or back.

4 Processing side and shoulder seams

By connecting the shoulder sections, the back and the shelf of the product are folded with the front sides inward, the sections are equalized and, distributing the fit, they are cleaved with pins, after which they are swept away from the back. Grind the shoulder sections from the side of the shelf with a seam 1.5 cm wide. If there are tucks along the shoulder sections of the back and shelves, then they must be processed before basting and grinding the shoulder seams.

To protect the product from stretching while wearing, the shoulder seam is recommended to be performed with two machine lines. After sewing, the seam is ironed and, as a rule, ironed towards the back. Slices of allowances are overcast.

In products made of easily stretchable fabrics, the shoulder seams are additionally reinforced with strips of a denser fabric or cotton braid. The strips are applied to the wrong side of the front so that the cuts of the strip and the shoulder are aligned (i.e., the edge is directed away from the cut), and in this position the parts are swept away. After basting and grinding the shoulder sections of the front and back, the allowances of the shoulder seams together with the edges are ironed, then ironed towards the back and all three sections are overcast.

To connect the product along the side sections, the front and back are folded with the front sides inward, the control marks are combined, the sections are equalized, cut off with pins and swept from the side of the front. Stitching is carried out from the side of the back with a seam 1.5 cm wide, after which the seam is ironed. (Appendix 2, Fig. 4).

5 Processing the neck and armholes of the product

Neckline: Stitch the neckline front facing to the back neckline, iron the seam allowances. Stitch the facings face to face on the neck, combining the shoulder seams of the facings and the dress. Cut seam allowances up to 0.5 cm, cut the rounding several times. Press the facings upwards, stitch them into the stitching seam from the front side, while grabbing the seam allowances. Thanks to this seam, the facings will not twist to the front side. Wrap the facings on the wrong side and stab in the area of ​​​​the motive.

Rice. 1. Turning the neckline.

2.6 Processing the bottom of the dress

Fold the product so that they are aligned: side sections, armhole section, shoulder sections. Outline the bottom of the product. Overcast the lower cut on special. car and iron. Next, bend the bottom of the product by 2 cm and, turning the edge of the hem, hem it manually with a blind seam. Iron the bottom of the product.

Rice. 2. Processing the bottom of the dress.

7 Product finishing

The finished product is cleaned of threads, the ends of the threads are cut, traces of chalk lines are removed.

Final wet - heat treatment.

The final WTO is carried out with an electric iron on special equipment. table. The shoulder seam should be well ironed.

To iron the side seams, the dress is put on the ironing table or block with the front side up. Side seam is ironed towards the back

The bottom of the product is ironed from the front side through the iron.

Tools and equipment used in the processing of the product

For the manufacture of the product, we need the following tools, fixtures and equipment:

Scissors for cutting fabrics have unequal blades: the lower one is narrower than the upper one, and therefore, when cutting, it slides on the table, almost without lifting the fabric, which helps to cut accurately.

The ripper is used for cutting threads and ripping seams.

Pins - made of medium-sized wire, copper, nickel-plated or stainless steel, with a sharp end and head, with metal, glass or plastic heads. Used for pinning or pinning something.

Tailor's chalk is used to temporarily transfer the contour of patterns garment on the fabric of the upper and the lining, notches, designations of allowances drawn with tailor's chalk, disappear after the first wash of the product, even in the case of ordinary, non-self-disappearing chalk.

Patterns are the details of a product that are cut from auxiliary materials, such as oilcloth or paper. Patterns are made on the basis of measurements. To create it, you need a drawing of the main parts, which will be the basis of the design (back, shelf, sleeves). The basis of the shelf and back includes a tuck, neck, side and shoulder sections, armholes. The basis of the sleeve is the okat, its height, front and elbow sections. When constructing a drawing, the main horizontal lines are the lines of the waist, chest, hips, bottom, and the vertical lines are the lines of the middle of the front, the side seam and the middle of the back. The basis of the design can be fitted (darts along the middle seam of the back, along the waist line, along the side seam), straight (no darts at the waist) and trapezoid (expansion along the middle and side seams of the back).

Pattern - according to the working patterns, the contours of the parts over the fabric are outlined, as well as when constructing a drawing of the details of the products.

Hand needle - a long, thin, pointed tool made of solid matter, most often known to man from sewing needles with needle eye<#"795052.files/image003.gif">

Annex 2

Rice. 3. Stitching relief seam

Rice. 4. Processing of the shoulder and side seams of the product.

Appendix 3

Rice. 5. Single needle sewing machine 51 class.

Rice. 6. Iron ultragliss mod. 1610 - 1615 firm "TEFAL".

Creative project on the topic: "Making a casual dress"

1 . Substantiation of the theme of the selected project.

2 . Sketch and description of the model.

3 .Justification of the choice of materials and equipment used.

4 . Pattern making and cutting.

5 .Product manufacturing technology. Used seams in the manufacture of the product.

6 . Product cost calculation.

7 .Results of design work.

8 .Bibliography.

1. Substantiation of the theme of the selected project

The goal is to design and manufacture a dress for everyday wear.

Tasks: 1. Select manufacturing technology.

2. Conduct research work.

3. Put forward the idea of ​​the model.

4. Think over the manufacturing technology.

5. Make a product.

As a product for a creative project, I chose a dress for everyday wear at school.

While looking for a dress model for a creative project, I looked through and explored many options. There were many options, modern fashion offers a large number of models of dresses, different in style, texture and color of the fabric. Considering that this dress is necessary for me to wear at school, I opted for a strict dress. classical style from dense fabric. I decided to diversify my image with different detachable collars and cuffs.

Rice. 1. Dress options

2. Sketch and description of the model

Sketch

Rice. 2. Model sketch

Model Description

Purpose, name;

Silhouette, style;

Features details;

Finishing.

Casual dress for school.

The dress fabric was black.

Dress of classic style, has a fitted silhouette.

The dress is detachable along the waistline, with a half-sun skirt. Darts are located on the front and back of the bodice, the sleeve is long set-in. Neck round shape processed undercut turning.

On the back, the clasp is finished with a black satin braid - a zipper with golden links. The bottom of the dress and sleeves is finished with a hem seam with an open cut.

Removable collar and cuffs made of lace are made as decoration.

Rice. 3.4. Removable parts options

Rice. 5. Front and back view of the dress.

3. Rationale for the choice of materials and equipment used

Since the product chosen is everyday dress, then the fabric should hold its shape well and be resistant to abrasion. Therefore, a dense dress fabric of a universal black color was chosen as the material for sewing.

equipment andother accessories

Sewing machine "Janome 5519".

Overlock. "Janome My Lock 134"

Steam iron,

Hand needle for sweeping work, pins, machine needle No. 80, scissors. ironing board, ironing board.

4. Making patterns and cutting products

Dress cut details

1. Front - 1 piece

2. Back - 2 parts

3. Front and back panels of the skirt - 1 detail

4. Sleeve - 2 details

5. Turning-2 details

Open dresses

To cut the dress you need:

1. Prepare the fabric for cutting by decathing.

Lay out the fabric for cutting on the desktop, cut off the edge.

2. Fold the fabric along the lobar thread in half with the right side inward, equalize the lobar sections, chop with pins across the lobar sections, aligning the transverse sections.

4. When laying out the details of the pattern on the fabric, the shared thread of the fabric and the direction of the shared thread indicated on the details of the pattern must match.

5. First, lay out large parts on the fabric, then small parts of the pattern. Pin the details to the fabric with pins. Circle the details of the pattern along the contours. Then set aside the allowances for processing sections indicated on the parts, and draw new contour lines, exactly repeating the contour of the outlined part.

6. Cut out the details along the seam allowance lines.

5.Technology of product manufacturing.

Used seams in the manufacture of the product

Work plan for sewing a detachable dress along the waistline:

1. Processing of chest, shoulder and waist darts on the details of the cut of the bodice

2. Processing the shoulder sections of the bodice

3. Processing the side cuts of the bodice

4. Processing the fastener with braid - zipper

5. Collar processing

6. Connecting the collar to the neck

7. Sleeve processing

8. Processing of the side cuts of the skirt panels

9. Connecting the bodice to the skirt

10. Joining sleeves with armholes

11. Processing the bottom cut

12. Product finishing

Technological map for tailoring dresses

Practical work

Execution Technology

Processing of chest, shoulder and waist darts on the details of the cut of the bodice

Stitch the darts along the marked lines: chest darts - from the side cuts to the tops, shoulder darts - starting from the shoulder cuts, waist darts - starting from the lower cuts for temporary purposes. Delete temporary stitch threads. Check the quality of work. Iron the darts: moisten and iron on the edge, and then iron the chest darts with a fold down, the shoulder and waist darts with a fold towards the middle of the part, sew the slack of the fabric at the ends of the darts. Check the quality of work.

Processing of the shoulder sections of the bodice.

Sweep and stitch the shoulder sections from the side of the front part. Delete temporary stitch threads. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine. Check the quality of work. Moisten the shoulder seams, iron on the edge, and then iron in different directions or iron in the direction of the back piece until it fits completely. Check the quality of work.

Processing of the side cuts of the bodice.

Stitch shoulder seams from the side of the back piece. Delete temporary stitch threads. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine.

Check the quality of work. Moisten the side seams, iron to the rib, and then iron or iron towards the front piece until it fits snugly. Check the quality of work.

Processing the fastener with a hidden braid - a zipper

Prepare the braid - zipper for stitching: iron with moisture through the iron, check the operation of the lock and the links of the braid - zipper. Fold the back pieces with the front sides inward, equalize the cuts, sweep along the line of seam allowances.

Moisten the seams, iron on the edge, and then iron to a full fit. Delete temporary stitch threads. Open the zip lock. Place the front side of the lock on the right side of the back allowance so that the links of the lock are on the ironing line. Baste on the braid. Stitch the braid of the “lightning” lock to the back allowance, bending the links of the lock, using a special foot. The stitch should run at the base of the links. Close the castle. Baste the second side of the lock with the front side on the front side of the back allowance, stitch, bending the links of the lock. The line runs at the base of the links. Delete temporary stitch threads. Iron the clasp from the wrong side through the iron.

Check the quality of work.

Collar processing.

Cut out the details of the upper and lower collar from the main or finishing fabric after refining the neckline. Process the collar: overstitch the sections of the flyaway and the end of the details of the collar and collar, turn the collar on the front side, straighten the corners, straighten and baste the seam, iron from the side of the lower collar. Check the quality of work.

Collar to neck connection

Put the lower collar with the right side on the front side of the product, combining the middle of the collar with the middle of the back, and the ends of the collar with notches, equalize the cuts of the neck and collar, fasten with pins, sweep from the side of the product and stitch from the side of the collar. Bend the seam sections towards the lower collar. Bend the section of the stitching of the upper collar inward by 7-10mm, baste, closing the machine line, stitch at a distance of 1-2mm from the edge of the hem. Remove threads of temporary lines, iron. Check the quality of work.

Sleeve processing

Sweep and stitch the sections of the sleeves. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine. Check the quality of work. Moisten the seams, iron to the rib and then iron or iron towards the front until snug. Check the quality of work. Finish the bottom edge of the sleeve with a hem seam with a closed cut, iron the seam. Check the quality of work.

Processing the side cuts of the skirt panels

Sweep the side cuts of the panel. Stitch the side seams from the side of the back panel. Delete temporary stitch threads. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine. Check the quality of work. Moisten the side seams, iron to the rib, and then iron or iron towards the front panel until it fits snugly. Check the quality of work.

Connecting the bodice to the skirt

Turn skirt inside out, bodice right side out. Put the bodice into the skirt, combining the side seams, darts, the middle lines of the bodice and skirt details, equalize the cuts, chop, sweep along the line of the seam allowance from the side of the bodice. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine. Iron the seam allowances on the rib and then iron towards the bodice. Check the quality of work.

Joining sleeves with armholes

Baste the sleeves into the armholes, sew from the side of the sleeve, perform a bartack at the end of the line. Process the seam sections on the overcasting machine. Iron the seam allowances to the rib and then iron to the side of the sleeve. Check the quality of work.

Bottom cut processing

Process the bottom edge on the overcasting machine. Bend the bottom cut of the skirt to the wrong side to the width of the hem, sweep it up. Attach the hem with a blind stitch or machine stitch.

Remove threads of temporary lines, iron. Check the quality of work.

Product finishing

Remove the threads of the temporary lines, cut the ends of the threads, clean the product from the threads, perform a wet-heat treatment. Hang the product on a hanger until completely dry.

6. Calculation of the cost of the product

Materials used

Price, rub)

Consumption of materials for the product

Material costs (rub)

Dress fabric

dublirin

Zipper

Finishing fabric

The preliminary price of the product is 919 rubles.

Electricity costs - 39.52 rubles.

The total cost of the product is 1078 rubles (excluding wages).

The market value of the product is 3500 rubles.

Savings - 2422 rubles.

7. Results of the design work

At the end of the tailoring of the dress, I was satisfied with the work done. I enjoyed working with the material I chose. I didn't have any problems while making the product. I am glad that I gained new knowledge and skills in sewing! I am very pleased with the result of my work! I will wear the dress with great pleasure!

8. List of references

1. Fashion magazine.

2. Magazine "Burda Moden" 2013-2014

3. Mozgovaya G.G. "Technology. Sewing business" 7-9 cells - M .: Education 2009.