In response to the question in the article, I decided to try to write a short article on choosing equipment for a novice tourist.

When describing the equipment, I tried to choose something that would be suitable for both a one-day hike and a week-long hike. The time of year is summer or, at least, the off-season. In the future, this set should be basic and supplemented and changed based on experience, difficulty category, season, terrain, etc.

1. Equipment

1.1. Backpack.
Depending on how long you are going, take a backpack of 15-60 liters: for short one-day hikes - 15-25 liters, for trips of 2-5 days - 45-60 liters. Larger backpacks for longer hikes are definitely not for beginners.
On the advice of Your text to link...

for a man over 16 years old - 90-110 liters, for a woman and child under 16 years old - 80 liters.
so everything will fit inside, you won’t need to carry group things and the belongings of a suddenly weakened comrade in your hands

by backpack volume - from the experience of children's and adults' hiking and water trips along rivers and forests Nizhny Novgorod region for 3-20 days. those who buy a smaller backpack either hang all sorts of junk on the outside, or buy a different backpack.

Yes, for a small hike you can always carry a backpack with a sling

Whether to do this or not is your decision, but I personally don’t recommend it.
1.2. Documentation.
Just in case, take the documents. Take originals or take copies - everyone decides for himself. But in any case, you need to protect them from moisture.
1.3. Water and water filtration products.
The water supply should depend on the climate and terrain. Take 2-6 liters of water per day, for example, in bottles with a screw cap (they will come in handy later): less in winter, more in summer. Please note that you may need additional water for cooking.
Instead of a flask, you can take a plastic bottle.
As a rule, it simply doesn’t make sense to store a lot of water, because... in many places there are bodies of water (lakes, rivers, streams). In this case, take a water filter with you. Exceptions include areas that are far from natural bodies of water (for example, mountains). But a novice tourist, IMHO, has nothing to do there.
1.4. Food.
For a novice tourist, it is best that the food is ready to eat or easy to prepare.
If you decide to cook porridge, then take the porridge in bags (buckwheat, rice, millet, 80-100 grams of cereal per bag), such porridge will not burn on the pot.
If the hike is one-day, then it is possible to do without cooking at all. To use, for example, canned food: porridge with meat, cabbage rolls with meat, peppers stuffed with meat and others like that - just heat it up.
You don’t need to take:
- perishable food products (dairy, cold cuts, fish, ready meals);
- products containing hot spices, alcohol, kernels apricot kernels, culinary and confectionery fats, sodium pyrosulfate, table salt over 0.8 percent, nitrites over 0.03%;
- fruits and vegetables;
- confectionery products with a high content of confectionery products with cream fillings.
1.5. Clothes and shoes.
Clothes and shoes should not be new and should be worn in.
If possible, for beginner tourists I recommend clothing in bright colors, possibly with reflective stripes. If necessary, this will attract additional attention.
Clothes must have long sleeves/legs, because... There should be more protection and heat conservation just in case.
Shoes should be reliable and comfortable. As a budget replacement for hiking boots, you can use military boots, strong city boots, ordinary running shoes(for simple hikes like Crimea), inexpensive trekking boots from little-known manufacturers (there are quite high-quality options). You can also take sneakers, but they are not suitable for every terrain, because... they have thin soles (but can be used for camp wear, for example).
Cloth:
- Running pants - synthetic or synthetic is best mixed fabric, it is lightweight and dries quickly, unlike cotton. You can ride the train/fly on a plane in these same pants. No need to take jeans, it's extra weight.
- Shirt/T-shirt. You can take any shirts and T-shirts for hiking that you have in the house, except synthetic ones. If you are going on a multi-day trip, take 2 pieces.
- A warm sweater or fleece (fleece or Polartek jacket) - in case the weather worsens. Must have a throat. On a one-day hike, you can take a windbreaker instead.
- Suit against wind and rain (jacket and pants). You don't have to take it on a one-day hike.
- Socks\underwear. In the case of a one-day hike, you don’t have to take it (but if you get wet, you can rub your feet with wet socks, and your groin with wet panties...). In other cases, take 2-3 sets. Socks are preferably woolen, because... Wool absorbs sweat and, unlike other materials, allows moisture to evaporate. There is no need to store/wear torn socks, because... This can cause calluses. Also, wool, even wet, retains heat. Socks made of synthetic threads are unacceptable for hiking, as they do not provide adequate heat and air exchange when walking. Feet sweat quickly and blisters may form.
- Underwear/thermal underwear. Very necessary thing for hiking in winter and in the off-season, in summer you can get by.
- Polyethylene cape (poncho). Necessary for protection from rain. You can simply replace it with a piece of polyethylene measuring at least 130x180 centimeters.
- You must have a headdress. If this transition period(for example, autumn) or the climate requires it, then put a knitted hat (although it can be useful in the summer, when spending the night).
According to the new traffic rules, when crossing the road and driving along the sides or edge of the roadway in the dark or in conditions of insufficient visibility outside populated areas, pedestrians are required to carry objects with reflective elements and ensure that these objects are visible to vehicle drivers. Therefore, if you can drive near the road, take something with a reflective layer with you.
1.6. Hygiene products
Everything is in small tubes and packages. Toothpaste and a brush, small soap, toilet paper, hygiene products for women, shaving accessories. Towel. If you are traveling for a long time, be sure to take baby powder and baby cream with you. If it’s a one-day hike, then only soap and a towel will be enough. Alternatively, a pack is enough for a one-day hike wet wipes and a small tube of hand gel (suggested)
The towel is small, preferably made of microfiber fabric: absorbs well and dries quickly.
1.7. Means for starting a fire
It's best to take matches/lighter. Matches must be packed tightly.
1.8. Ax/machete.
What is better - everyone decides for himself. The debate about this continues...
Alternatively, you can take a folding saw (hacksaw) instead (for a short time) or together with an ax/mosque.
1.9. First aid kit.
There must be medications for chronic diseases.
It is advisable to include instructions for use of all medications in the first aid kit.
If you wear glasses, put spare glasses in your first aid kit.
Even if you don’t take a normal first aid kit, take an adhesive plaster with you (to cover calluses and abrasions).
You can also use 100 milliliters of alcohol (for disinfection, grind, use internally and for kindling).
1.10. Orientation.
To do this, it is best to take a navigator, perhaps even on a smartphone. I don’t recommend a map and compass for beginners, because... you need to know how to use them.
Take your smartphone only for a short hike, because... The battery drains quite quickly.
If you take a smartphone, be sure to take a spare/external battery. Yes, and for the navigator you can take a spare set.
1.11. Sleep/shelter.
This item is only needed if you are going overnight.
In warm weather, it is enough to use polyethylene or an awning. I also advise you to take a travel mat, because... the ground can be cold at night.
In colder times or winter, everything is more difficult. Use a camping mat, sleeping bag, awning or tent for shelter in various combinations.
The mat can be replaced with a budget option - building thermal insulation.
Take a sleeping bag depending on the time of year of the hike, location and local climatic conditions. The temperature range of the sleeping bag is written on its packaging.
The tent should be compact, but roomy enough (minimum 60 cm per person), two-layer for protection from rain and wind, and, preferably, light - it is the tent that weighs the most of all the equipment. If you are going in a group, perhaps the tent will be a group outfit, designed in this case for several people.
1.12. Seat (foam for sitting, “butt pad”, “butt pad”).
For sitting on the ground, as well as on anything cold, wet, dirty.
1.13. Dishes.
As a rule, this is a mug, bowl, spoon.
Take plastic or steel, but not ceramics/glass (they can break quite easily). Plastic dishes It’s more difficult to wash off grease, but metal (if not thermal) burns your hands - choose what you prefer.
If the hike is solo, and you are going alone, then take a small pot instead of a bowl. If you are not going to cook, you don’t have to take it with you.
It is possible to take disposable tableware, but only as a last resort.
1.14. Bowler hat.
If you don’t plan to prepare hot meals, then don’t take it (this applies to one-day hikes). If you are going in a group, take it as group equipment.
Be sure to consider what you will use to hang the pot over the fire (if you are not using a burner). To do this, use fire ropes, collapsible hearths, fire tripods, brackets, folding crossbars, various hangers and holders of fire crossbars.
1.15. Flashlight.
It is advisable to have a small flashlight with you, just in case.
If you are going overnight, I also recommend taking a headlamp.
Don’t be lazy, take a spare set of batteries for the flashlight.
1.16. Plastic bags.
Take 5-8 bags of different sizes. For example, for packing wet and dirty things.
1.17. Gas (or other) burner.
It can be used instead of a fire if you don’t want to light fires, it’s impossible, or you have nothing to use. Take a small one.
As an option, you can take a whisperer.
1.18. Knife.
I won’t recommend which one. I think you need to hold it in your hands first. Don't buy expensive ones, Chinese ones will do.
1.19. Gloves
If you are going to make a fire, take heat-resistant gloves (for example, aramid knitted) for working around the fire.
1.20. Whistle.
Needed in case you get lost, because... The whistle of a whistle is heard over a greater distance than a shout.
1.21. A ball of rope/string/paracord.
A diameter of 3-4 mm is sufficient. Take 4-5 meters. But it’s better to take one piece of at least 20 m and several pieces of 0.5-1 m. It can be useful in many places.
The rope should be consumable, that is, it should not be a pity to cut. An ordinary clothesline is perfect for this.
1.22 Sewing kit
For a long-term solution, take 2-4 sewing needles, 1-2 saddlery needles, threads (preferably black and green, on a spool. It’s a good idea to divide them into tonic and thick ones.), 2-3 safety pins (for quick repairs of clothes and other equipment). A few buttons. A needle threader (a device for threading a needle) (very useful in poor lighting, you will be happy with stiff fingers from the cold and tired eyes). You can put small scissors (for example, folding ones). You can take a small awl (for leather or thick fabric). You can also add a thimble.
For a one-day trip, take 2 sewing needles, 1 spool of thread (a small spool will be enough), 2-3 safety pins. You can add a threader, scissors, or a thimble.
1.23. Money.
Even if you are walking nearby and not for long, take money just in case: in different bills, so that you can pay without change and not lose all your money. Pack tightly.
Divide the money and put it in 2-3 places (pockets).
1.24. Optional equipment
There will be equipment here that you can do without, but it will make the hike easier.
- mirror. Remove a piece of trash or a midge from the eye and send a distress signal.
- monocular. It makes it possible to examine the proposed route from a distance, so as not to be faced with the fact that “you can’t get through here, you had to go around it.”
- Nordic walking poles. To help the legs, useful for beginners... And not only for beginners...
- sunglasses, dust glasses - to protect the eyes.
- repellents. You can do without them, but it’s better to take them. For those who are allergic to repellents, we can advise you to take individual electronic mosquito repellers
- rescue blanket.
- collapsible canister/bucket (in case of a long hike).
- a block for a knife and an ax (in case of a long hike).
- a triangular file for a hacksaw on wood (in case of a long hike).

2. The main ways to reduce the cost of purchasing equipment

- Engage more or less suitable clothing from your existing wardrobe.
- Borrow from friends or rent.
- Buy used ones at second-hand stores or at the market.
- Buy at sales (seasonal and other discounts in sports stores, travel stores, online stores, stocks, etc.). You can buy very high quality items at an affordable price.
- Replace the famous brand with a less expensive analogue.
- Look for travel equipment from domestic manufacturers - it can be quite good in quality and usually costs less than foreign brands.
- Take old clothes that you won’t mind burning at the stake as they become unusable or you’re tired of wearing them.

3. Packing things

You should pack your things mainly in case of unforeseen getting wet (for example, from rain). They will be safely saved from dirt by external (backpack) and internal (the things themselves) packaging. There are only two options here: either protect each item separately, or all at once.
As an option, use combined packaging - first pack each item (group of things), and then pack everything together.
For individual packaging, you can use, for example, grippers or sealed bags. For clothes - ordinary household bags (which are for garbage). Also, clothes can be packed in vacuum bags (seals and reduces the volume of things). Sometimes you can use some type of airtight container. And for general packaging you can use plain film.

4. Group equipment.

If you are hiking in a group for several days, you will take group equipment with you. In this case, consult your trek leader about what to take with you. Because otherwise, you may end up with unnecessary repetition in the equipment, or you may even take extra (unnecessary) ones.

5. Additional equipment and equipment.

I recommend that beginners take additional equipment and equipment only as directed by an experienced tourist, group leader, or as they gain experience.

6. About the “coolness” of equipment

When discussing the issues of choosing equipment for tourism, two points of view are most often encountered:
1. things should be only the most modern and specialized. These people are willing to shell out considerable amounts of money for such equipment. They are well versed in new technological fabrics and materials, and are always up to date with the latest catalogs of popular travel brands.
2. The latter, as a rule, do not worry about their equipment at all and are quite capable of making everything they need on their own from scrap materials. As a rule, these are representatives of the “old school” who found and began to get involved in tourism during the years of general shortage. The most interesting thing is that they really manage to get by just fine with homemade tents and sleeping bags, and make category hikes in old sneakers and well-worn windbreakers.
I believe that neither one nor the other is right, and the truth lies somewhere in the middle . Anyone who thinks that the coolness of a tourist is determined by the amount of money spent on equipment is, of course, just as wrong as those who claim that all this modern technologies no one needs. In fact modern equipment is desirable, but not at all vital a necessary condition carrying out a hike, unless, of course, it is related to expeditionary or extreme tourism.
Therefore, a simple conclusion follows - if you have the opportunity and desire to buy modern, advanced equipment - buy it. If there is no such possibility, then this cannot in any case serve as a reason for abandoning the campaign as such. On simple hikes (and if an experienced person, even on complex ones), you can always get by with improvised or low-budget solutions.

So you're going on a hike. The route has been chosen, the place has been booked, the tickets have been purchased, you are standing in the middle of the room, things are laid out on the floor, a backpack is in the center and the main question of any novice hiker is: “How? How can I put it all in my backpack?”

We will try to help you solve this problem and describe the most common principles in this article: how to choose a travel backpack; how to properly assemble it, how to adjust it correctly, how to properly wear a backpack on a hike, and we’ll give you the most common mistakes, which beginners admit during preparations before the hike.

Our article will help you correctly choose tourist backpack, so that you don’t get confused when standing in the store and looking at the huge selection of all kinds of models.

We also note that a backpack, shoes and a tent are something we recommend not saving on and approaching the choice of this equipment with particular seriousness.

Experienced tourists will confirm our words that there is no universal backpack and every trip has its own nuances. The first backpack will serve you for as long as possible if, before you go to buy it, you already know exactly the schedule of your trips for the season. But even if you follow all our recommendations, only after walking a few tens of kilometers with a backpack behind you will you be able to understand exactly what kind of backpack you want to wear, and what features of it are especially important to you.

The first thing you need to know about a travel backpack is that backpacks differ in volume, which is measured in liters. In a specialized store you can find backpacks from 40 before 130 liters In addition, there are women's and male models and models, with different types designs.

You should also decide on the type of hike and the climatic conditions that will exist along the entire route.

So, for a winter hike you need to take more things, which means you need a larger backpack. The amount of things you need to pack on a boat trip is significantly different from a trip across the mountains and plains. Please note that, for example, climbing Elbrus begins in a temperature range of about +15 +20, and at the top it can be down to -20. We recommend checking this point with the organizers of your trip in advance.

What size backpack should I choose?

Of course, you can pack all the necessary things into a small backpack, but to do this you need to know how to pack equipment correctly and considerable dexterity, which comes with experience. In addition, with a small backpack, there is often a need to hang large items “overboard”, which can cause a lot of inconvenience. With a large backpack, the situation is quite the opposite: the temptation to put a lot of unnecessary things is too great and the weight of the backpack can become simply incredible.

Depending on the build and preparation, an adult going going on a weekend trip, a backpack is enough 40-65 liters

— hiking on relatively flat terrain men need from 80 to 100 liters, women – from 60 to 80 liters;
— for mountain tourism men should stock up on a backpack of 90 liters or more, women the same 60-80 liters;
— water tourism or hiking with skis requires the presence of additional gear and equipment, therefore recommended volumes are from 130 liters for men and from 80 liters for women.

These numbers are very arbitrary, but they will help you navigate in choosing the right backpack for your first trip. We should also not forget about individual characteristics everyone. For example, a fragile girl can comfortably cover huge distances under a backpack of 80 liters, while young man Hiking can seem like hell with a 60 liter backpack. Everything is very individual and can only be learned through practice.

Some of the quality backpack manufacturers make backpacks in sizes (from S to XL) or with the ability to adjust the size yourself.

Types of backpacks:

Easel backpacks They have a strong frame in their design, to which a suspension (belts, belt, straps) and a bag are attached. This version of the backpack was very popular at the end of the last century, but now it is practically not used by tourists, because... The frame is quite heavy in weight and extremely rigid to use.

Frame backpack type is now the most popular type of travel backpack, thanks to the most thoughtful weight distribution due to special inserts made of plastic or metal. Most often, the plates are sewn into the backpack, but there are also models with removable “plates”, which makes storing the backpack easier (it can be rolled up).

Soft design backpack and is due to the absence of any rigid inserts. Which greatly simplifies its storage (you can fold it compactly both on a hike if necessary, and at home when there are no hikes), however, such backpacks need to be able to be laid out correctly in order to make it rigid with the help of your own things, and this not an easy task for newbies.

Structural elements of a tourist backpack:

Webbing system– this is 80% of your comfort on a hike. The straps should be firmly attached to the frame of the backpack, be elastic and soft, all seams should be well stitched, not slip and not cut into the neck. When trying on a backpack in a store, pay attention to the buckles; they should allow the tourist to adjust the straps in an already worn and loaded backpack.

Unloading belt– redistributes the load from the shoulders and spine to the hips. The belt should be approximately at the level of the bones on the hips. Make sure that the belt is wide enough and soft. It is very important that a comfortable buckle is attached to it, allowing you not only to adjust it to the structure of your body as much as possible, but also to quickly remove the backpack if necessary.

Flap and pockets– used mainly for storing small items that are often needed while moving, or for those items that do not fit into the main volume of the backpack. And if there is a valve in all modern models, and also serves to protect things from rain, then manufacturers are increasingly abandoning pockets, because By loading them, the tourist increases the volume and shifts the center of gravity of the load.

Additional loops, ties, fastenings serve to attach to a backpack necessary tools(for example, ice axes, rope, even a tent).

Lower entrance may not always be useful, especially if you have placed a rug around the entire perimeter of the backpack, so this detail may be considered “optional” when choosing your first backpack for a hike.

Waterproof cover Modern models often come with a backpack included. It protects your things from getting wet during a long trek in the rain, from dirt, and is even used to transport a backpack through water.

Your actions in the store when buying a tourist backpack:

• carefully study the design of the backpack;
• pay attention to the quality of fabric and seams;
• all buckles and fasteners must be strong, and ties must pass through them freely;
• the material on the back should be soft and, preferably, with a ventilating insert;
• the level of fastening of the straps on the back should be approximately in the middle of the shoulder blades; if this mark is noticeably higher or lower, then you should choose a different backpack according to size or height;
• adjust the loaded backpack, fastening and tightening all possible fastenings, until the ideal result.

How to pack a backpack correctly

The main rule here is proper weight distribution.

Before you start packing your backpack, make a list of the things you will need on your hike, lay the items on the floor and distribute them into groups: for example, things for sleeping, general equipment, heavy items, items often used on a hike, bulky items, clothes.

Try to use the entire volume of the backpack and leave no empty spaces, because... during movement, this will lead to a shift in weight in the backpack and entail a lot of inconvenience.

And now point by point:

• at the very bottom they put bulky things and things that will be useful only in the evening or while staying (sleeping clothes, sleeping bag), the tent and sleeping mat are usually secured from the outside;
• the heaviest things are distributed along the back, while trying to put soft objects between things and your back, this way you will avoid sharp corners that will fit into your back;
• It is better to pack the items of the group that were distributed to you in a separate bag so that you can get them out easily and not search for too long throughout the backpack;
• items that you plan to use frequently (camera, phone, map, medicines, water, insect repellent, etc.) should be placed at the very top to simplify access to them;
• It is better to pack all small-sized items in a separate container or bag so that they do not scatter throughout the backpack;
• It is better to pack documents, money, phones, chargers and anything else that is a pity in waterproof bags;
• It is better to place fragile items and crumbling products as close to the top as possible.
  Once your backpack is assembled, put it on, adjust it, and walk around. You should be comfortable and comfortable. If this is not the case, try moving things around to equalize the center of gravity of the load.

How to properly adjust a backpack

When you have decided what to pack for your trip and have packed your things correctly, it is time to put on your backpack and adjust it so that the trip is as comfortable as possible and does not turn into a nightmare.

The first desire - to pick up the backpack and forcefully throw it over your shoulders - should be ignored. The weight of the backpack is quite significant and such an attempt may not be successful and may even lead to injury.

In order to correctly adjust a tourist backpack filled with things, you should loosen the straps and place it, holding it by the handle, on some elevation (at home it can be a chair, table, cabinet), and only then alternately put the straps on your shoulders.
If there is no elevation at hand, then you can use your own leg bent at the knee instead.

Adjusting the backpack should begin with the lower fastenings. Pull the weight belt so that the buckle is midway between your thighs. The belt should fit your hips as anatomically as possible and take up to half the weight of the backpack.
After this, start adjusting the shoulder straps. You should not pull them up too actively, so as not to transfer all the weight from the unloading belt to your shoulders, but not too weakly, so that the backpack does not tip back when walking. Make sure that the straps do not dig into your neck and that the chest strap does not interfere with free breathing and movement.
If this is your first experience of assembling and adjusting a backpack, then we recommend walking around the apartment in it or even taking a walk around the yard in order to fit it as accurately as possible. If you are not comfortable, you should take out excess items or redistribute the weight within the backpack space.

How to wear a backpack correctly

In order to understand how to wear a backpack correctly, just follow the rules that we stated above:

1. You shouldn’t skimp on a backpack, but we wouldn’t recommend thoughtlessly buying the most expensive first backpack either.
2. You shouldn't buy a backpack online. It’s better to spend a little time, go to the store, try everything on.
3. You need to choose a backpack based on: a) your own anatomical features and preferences (no one has canceled the concept of a “beautiful backpack”), b) hiking conditions (hiking, mountain, water, etc.), c) quality of materials, threads and accessories, d) own feelings.
4. The heaviest things in the backpack should be located along the back, the most necessary ones - on top, those that will be needed only in the evening - at the very bottom.
5. There should be no empty spaces in the backpack.
6. A correctly put on and adjusted backpack is comfortable to wear, does not move anywhere when moving, and fits tightly.
7. With an assembled, adjusted backpack, you should walk around, try to bend in different directions, and make sure you are confident in your movements.
8. Please note that personal belongings on a hike should not exceed 10 kg! Another 4 to 12 kg will be added to them (depending on the duration and autonomy of the hike and your gender). The normal weight of a backpack for a hike of average difficulty for 10 days for a girl is about 17 kg, and for a man about 23 kg.

We wish you only the most wonderful hiking experiences and hope that our article will help you choose your perfect first tourist backpack.

We also have useful articles on choosing other equipment needed for hiking.

All player protective equipment, clothing and footwear must comply with generally accepted ice hockey standards. It is the player's responsibility to ensure that the equipment used complies with the specifications of the official rules.
All equipment used by athletes must comply with the IPC Sports Advertising Rules regarding IPC uniform and use of trademarks. The IPC ISH STC (IPC Sledge Hockey Technical Committee) adheres to the decisions of the HECC (Hockey Equipment Certification Committee) as the governing body for the approval of all hockey helmets and face masks for players and goalkeepers.
A list of IPC ISH STC approved player equipment can be found in Appendix 3.

Player equipment

Player equipment includes sled, seat, skate clamp, skate, sticks and pitons.

300 - Sleigh

a) The sled frame must be made of the following approved materials: steel, aluminum, titanium and magnesium. The frame must be cylindrical with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.
b) The width between the main side parts of the frame must be at least 15 cm (measured from the outside of the frame) and no more than the width of the sled seat. The sides of the frame can taper under the seat to accommodate skates; The cone angle should not exceed 45 degrees.

The frame may protrude beyond the back of the seat by no more than 1 cm.
The skate retainer can be located at the rear of the frame, however, the frame must protrude 1 cm beyond the end of the skate.
c) The front of the frame must be an extended arc with a maximum radius of one-half (1/2) of the inside width of the frame (measured at the widest part in front of the seat).
The following materials can be used in the manufacture of this part: steel, aluminum, titanium, magnesium and polyurethane.

d) The frame may have a maximum of (4) four cross bars and one footrest bar located in front of the seat. Cross bars can be square or cylindrical with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.

e) The height of the main frame, measured from the surface of the ice to the base of the frame, must be a minimum of 8.5 cm and a maximum of 9.5 cm.

f) The player's seat may be placed on the skate clamp as long as it is not located lower than 5 cm from the surface.

g) For athletes with double amputations, the frame must be:

1. 80 cm long.
2. Place the front skid to the required minimum length of 10 cm.

80 cm minimum

301 - Heel protector

Each sled must have a footrest with a maximum width of 10 cm. If the oka has a unilateral amputation, a second footrest for the stump may be used (maximum width 10 cm).

302 - Front skid

The sled must have one runner. This runner should be attached to the frame no further than 3 cm from its front end. The runner must be attached to the center of the frame. Its length: 10 cm minimum and 20 cm maximum. The height of the runner, measured from the base of the frame to the surface of the ice, must be 7 cm minimum and 9.5 cm maximum.

Material:

a) The runner can be made of the same material as the main frame. If it is made of a similar material, it must have a cylindrical shape with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.
b) The runner can be made of nylon/plastic. It can be solid and have a width of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.

303 - Footrest

A footrest is required for all players, regardless of disability category. It must be made of the same material as the main frame and have a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.
- The footrest can be of different heights (depending on the size of the player’s feet), but must not be less than 15 cm in height.
- The footrest must not extend beyond the main frame and be higher than the player’s foot/feet.

304 - Horse

Each sled must have a minimum of one (1) and a maximum of two (2) skates placed parallel under the seat. There are no minimum width restrictions between skates. The maximum width is the width of the seat. Skates must be at least 16 cm and no more than 32 cm long. Skate blades must not protrude more than 1 cm from the front or back of the skate clamp.

305 - Seat

a) The seat must be made of suitable material and have no sharp ends (the ends are rounded). The frame may protrude beyond the back of the seat by no more than 1 cm.
b) The maximum height from the base of the seat to the ice surface is 20 cm. The measurement is taken from the surface of the ice to the lowest edge of the main part of the seat (see picture below).
c) Removable seat cushions or fixed padding or a combination of both must not exceed 5 cm in height and extend beyond the seat.
d) No external protection or projection behind the rear of the seat shall exceed 1 cm.
e) Belts and/or tape may be used to secure players' legs, ankles, knees and hips.

Main part of the material, yellow

306 - Player's stick

The stick must be made of wood or another material such as carbon steel, aluminum, fiberglass or plastic. It should not have any irregularities and all corners should be rounded.
Sticky, non-fluorescent tape of any color can be wrapped anywhere around the club.
Dimensions:
Maximum length - 100 cm from the heel to the end of the stick Stick: Minimum width - 2 cm Maximum thickness - 2.8 cm Stick must be straight
Hook: Maximum length - 32 cm from heel to end of hook Maximum width - 7.5 cm

Hook: Maximum length - 32 cm from heel to end of hook Maximum width - 7.5 cm

The player's stick blade may be bent. The bend of the club blade must be limited so that the distance perpendicular to the line, measured from a straight line drawn from any point of the heel to the end of the club blade, does not exceed 1.5 cm.

307 - Clubs and heels

The depth of the heel teeth should not exceed 4 mm. The heels should be attached to the lower or thickened end of the stick and should not end with a single point, but have at least 6 teeth of equal length (minimum 3 on each side) in order to avoid damage to the ice surface.
Each heel prong should not be tapered or end in a needle-shaped point to avoid puncture wounds or possible cuts, whether intentional or accidental. The heel may be made of any durable material, including steel, and should be no longer than 10.2 cm (4 inches). The heel should not extend beyond the end of the solid part of the club by more than 1 cm. The heel may be beveled, but should not exceed 1 cm at any angle.
Heel:

Minimum thickness - 3.20 cm

Equipment

308 - Form

All players and goalkeepers on each team must wear the same color jerseys, shorts, leggings and helmets (except for the goalkeeper, who is allowed to wear a helmet that is a different color than the rest of the players on the team).
a) The base color should be approximately 80 percent of the color of each part of the uniform, excluding numbers and surnames.
b) Sweaters, including sleeves, and leggings must be the same color.
c) Sweaters must be worn in such a way that no part of them hangs below the level of the sled.
d) Each player must have an individual number between 25 and 30 cm high, located on the center back of the jersey, and 10 cm high on both sleeves. Numbers are limited from 1 to 99 inclusive.
e) The captain must have the letter “C” and the alternate captains must have the letter “A”, 8 cm high, in a contrasting color, located on the front of the jersey in a conspicuous place. At IPC competitions, each player must have his surname on the back of his jersey, in the center of the top, in block Latin letters 8 cm high.
1. Any player or goalkeeper whose uniform does not comply with these requirements shall not be allowed to take part in the game.
2. If, in the opinion of the Referee, the colors of the competing teams are so similar that there is a possibility of errors in the imposition of penalties, it is the responsibility of the home team to replace their jerseys if required by the Referee.
3. If the player long hair, and they cover the name patch or number on his jersey, and his hair should be pulled back into a ponytail or tucked under his helmet.

Protective equipment

Protective equipment includes: helmet, full face mask, gloves, throat protector, mouth guard, skin protector, elbow pads and shoulder pads.

309 - Helmet

During play and pre-game warm-ups, all players must wear HECC compliant hockey helmets with the chinstrap securely fastened. The helmet must be worn so that the bottom edge of the helmet is located no more than the width of one hand above the level of the eyebrows, and the space between the helmet strap and the chin must be equal to the passage of one finger.

310 - Full face mask

During play and pre-game warm-ups, all players must wear a full face covering that meets HECC standards. A full face mask must be constructed so that the puck, stick blade or heel cannot pass through it.
Colored full face masks and visors are not permitted.

311 - Gloves

During play and pre-game warm-ups, all players must wear gloves that cover the hand and wrist. The palm portion of the glove must not be removed, allowing the player to use his bare hand. All players must wear hockey gloves.

312 - Throat protection

All players must wear a throat protector during play and pre-game warm-ups. Exceptions may apply for medical reasons.

313 - Mouth guard

All players are encouraged to wear a custom-made mouthguard during play and pre-game warm-ups.

314 - Skin protection

During play and pre-game warm-ups, all players must wear skin protection covering the area between the ankle and knee as appropriate for their disability category.

315 - Elbow pads

During games and pre-game warm-ups, all players must wear elbow pads that cover the back of the elbow joint.

316 - Shoulders

During games and pre-game warm-ups, all players must wear shoulder pads that cover the area of ​​the upper arm and forearm between the elbow and shoulder joint.

317 - Leg protection

All players, including goalies, are recommended to wear hockey boots that protect their feet and ankles (depending on their disability category).
A safety device built into the frame can also provide suitable protection if it covers the entirety of the feet and ankles.

This year our first page of hiking stories in Crimea was opened. Before this route, we only made excursion trips during one daylight hours and without the appropriate equipment. Finally, we purchased sleeping bags, backpacks for tourism and a four-person tent, we already had a burner, and we outlined the first real hiking route in our lives, first on the map. Now we had to implement our plans on the ground.

It was a family trip, two adults - my husband and I, and two children - a teenage son and a daughter who is going to first grade on September 1st. It was decided to distribute all the equipment according to the age and level of endurance of each participant, with respect for female half our small group. Everyone carried their own sleeping bag and personal clothing items; they were taken to a minimum for their shift and in case of windy, cool weather. I carried in my small sports backpack additionally, medicines for various cases (poisoning, bruises, wounds, bites), special tweezers for pulling out ticks, soap, toothbrushes with paste, matches, candles - in case of failure of LED Chinese headlamps, a mat, water. My daughter couldn’t do without her favorite plush dog on a camping trip, nicknamed “Blue” based on the color of the material. soft toy and a small heart-shaped pillow from the Winx series. The husband and son bore the brunt of the camp's belongings. My husband had behind him a backpack with a capacity of up to 60 liters with a tent from the Finnish company Halti, which had proven itself and had been tested by us in practice over the previous several years in repeated use; gas burner with cylinders; two small saucepans; two tin mugs with spoons, a knife and a fork (specially taken for my husband); water. The rest of the water and food, the camera, as well as elastic bandages for injuries and sprains of joints and ligaments, were carried by the son in a backpack with a capacity of up to 40 liters.

We planned to complete the route in no more than three days and two nights. This is actually what happened. At this time, our camp provisions consisted of 10 liters of water, 5 cans of proven premium stew, one loaf of sliced ​​black bread, a pack of dried bread, 6 packs of instant noodles, tea bags, 0.5 kg of sugar, 0.5 kg of rice and buckwheat 0.5 kg, salt. No fruits and vegetables, anything that quickly spoils, chokes, stains and weakens, maybe apples and potatoes, but none of us wanted to carry them. Already on the hike, I remembered, having seen wrappers from candies of one type, thrown, like identification marks, one every 500-700 meters on trail 138 by some tourist who loves caramel, that I had to take candies with me, exclusively for tea. But nothing more, because after them you feel thirsty and water is wasted. I miscalculated with the bread, for this reason at the end of the hike there was one unopened can of stew left, they didn’t want to eat it without bread, and I also had to take another bag of dried bread, which went like a charm with morning tea for breakfast. Personal weight, which may have been lost during the hike, was then regained at sea in the village of Zavodskoye. I returned from vacation feeling better, as if there were no travel conditions at all.

First day of the hike. Jur-Jur waterfall and Khapkhal gorge.

We started from the village of Generalskoye. We arrived there the night before. We found out about overnight accommodation and parking. We were accommodated by local Tatars in one of the houses for 80 hryvnia per person, the bathroom and kitchen were in the house. At their cafe, we had a snack of pilaf and tea with delicious pies with blackberries and raspberries. We slept well after the long road trip to Crimea, got up in the morning and began to get ready. Everything unnecessary for the hike was put into a car, which was placed in the yard of one of the local residents under guard for 50 hryvnia for the duration of the hike. We went to the store to buy more food and went down to the spring near the village. It was the beginning of the twelfth day. We collected spring water. The UAZ drivers who transport tourists to the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall found out a little about the climb to North Demerdzhi, asked which direction to go to the waterfall and off they went.

I will say that it was not at all an easy trip, but it was an interesting and definitely not boring hike. Firstly, they usually rise from the side of South Demerdzhi and go to North Demerdzhi, descending from it, often through the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall. We decided to go in the opposite direction. We chose this route deliberately and unanimously. The fact is that in 2011 we already made an attempt to get to the top of South Demerdzhi from the Valley of Ghosts from the village of Radiant. We had already climbed there, and there was no desire to repeat that path. Secondly, he came with us seven year old child, which added responsibility and had to take into account the children’s usual walking pace, slowing down their speed. Thirdly, we are still those walkers! We see a path, joyfully turn onto it, and then, beckoning us to follow it, it suddenly disappears, and we are left to wander in conjecture through a thick carpet of fallen leaves, making our way between trees that have been fallen and broken by a thunderstorm and wind. If only navigators always worked in those places! This happened again: three times during the entire route we lost our way, twice we had to return to our starting position, winding up unnecessary kilometers of the road.

The first time this happened was at the beginning of the hike, after passing the Jur-Jur waterfall. At the cordon, the workers of the Khapkhal hydrological reserve, who were reassuring tourists, having learned about our intentions, began to warn that the route was difficult, there was a steep cliff, and they had doubts, like we and let's go as a child on her. We remembered the weather forecast promising rain. We definitely won't be able to walk on the wet rock. They wouldn’t let us pitch a tent in the reserve for the night, they would charge us a fine, so they unanimously recommended that we return and follow path 138, along which we were planning to return from Demerdzhi-yayla through Dzhurla. In general, they were a little intimidating, but even without them we knew that walking on the rocks in the rain is strictly prohibited, and our daughter already had an idea from real experience of how different the trails in Crimea can be.

From their information, I understood that difficulties with the rock would await us closer to the ascent at the edge of the Demerdzhi plateau, but it turned out to be completely wrong. The rock was located not far from the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall itself, now I know that these are rocky ledges - the so-called “cheeks”, squeezing the river bed on both sides. I would listen to my husband who suggested following it. I saw a path that at first glance went around the obstacle. We moved along it and deviated away from the intended route. We realized this when we began to gain altitude and the surrounding mountains were better visible, above which, by the way, rain clouds were gathering. We had to either go to the intersection with path 147 and follow it to Demerdzhi-Yayla through Tyrke-Yayla, forgetting about the original plan, or go back down to the rock. There were 2-3 hours left before dusk; it was easier to return to the fork than to move forward or, in the worst case scenario, pitch a tent in the middle of a clear felling area. Moreover, I understood that turning onto path 147, the deep Khapkhal gorge would remain hidden to a curious gaze, but my inner instinct suggested that the gorge itself should be very beautiful.

That’s for sure, I fell into the trap of the Crimean gnomes, who diligently worked day and night to create that rock, which blocked the path to the picturesque upper reaches of the mountain river Ulu-Uzen Vostochny or Megapotamo (translated from the Crimean Tatar and Greek languages ​​as “big (great) river (stream)"). This very rock did not turn out to be a difficult obstacle for us, but we will remember it under the name “leading away”. We crossed it easily, and before our eyes there opened up a beautiful view of a pristine forest on the moderately steep slopes of the Khapkhal gorge and a crystal clear water stream cascading down onto boulders and breaking into multi-tiered baths and baths, bubbling streams and quiet shallows. Truly, the “Wolf’s Mouth”, which is also called KhapKhal (Hab-Khal), can be synonymous with royal grandeur, impeccable beauty, wild sinlessness and age-old peace. Struck by the revealed splendor, we walked quietly and leisurely along the stream, as we were advised by a young man who met us just behind the rock “leading to the side” and knew this area well. He said that the rock is the most slippery place, and there will be no further difficulties, all the paths will in any case lead to the top of the Demerdzhi-yayla plateau, the main thing is to stick to the left bank (not orographically in our case) and not go sharply to the right.

In RuNet you can find a ton of information about how to properly organize rescue operations on any type of terrain. There are translations of foreign brochures, and, judging by the publishing program of the FAR, rescue is their main priority.

This, of course, is all wonderful - the ability to help each other out in trouble significantly increases safety... But do you know what increases safety even more? Good technique movement on the terrain, which allows you to avoid getting into trouble.

I don’t think that in the part devoted directly to the technique of movement, I will be able to convey something fundamentally new that cannot be found in the Soviet textbook of the 80s, but you will not find some of the nuances of preparing equipment and other little things there.

Traveling on gentle slopes

Moving along gentle ice slopes should not present any problems for any physically healthy person. However, breakdowns still occur. First of all, let's outline their reasons:

Incorrectly selected/fitted/configured equipment. Loss of balance (for example, due to errors in organizing simultaneous belays). Getting caught by crampons (which can be caused by both problems with movement technique and improper fitting of equipment)... Eh, these are my first rescues, what nostalgia))). Incorrect movement technique - placing the cat only on the outer or inner row of teeth, squatting.

Choosing equipment for ice treks

Let's start in order. How, after all, to properly configure and adjust individual equipment for simple ice routes? This question should be asked first in the store, then in the camp, then directly under the glacier.

Cloth

By equipment for ice routes I mean boots, crampons and an ice axe. However, a few words should also be said about clothing. Of course, it must be waterproof and windproof. But for safety reasons, it is extremely important that the pants are tapered to the shins, or if you are using flashlights, they should be compact enough and the adjustment strings tucked securely under the fabric. Crampons will constantly cling to your wide ski or snowboard pants. At best, it will end with a damaged item. At worst, he is a spoiled climber.

Boots

Firstly, it is advisable that they be at least a little insulated, even in summer, or at least they should include an extra sock. Boots from the “medium trekking” class and above will suit you. When choosing a model and size, try to lace it up very tightly. In this position, on the one hand, your leg should not become numb, and on the other, the boot shaft, when standing on your toe, should significantly relieve your ankle. This will be extremely important when you start driving on the front teeth. Before buying boots in a store, try tapping the toe on a hard surface, walking on an inclined surface (there are artificial slides in stores) to understand at least approximately what sensations you will experience on the ascent or descent.

Cats

Almost any crampons are suitable for flat ice. You should choose expensive and heavy technical models if you plan to go out on ice with a steepness of more than 30° (However, in winter, “advanced” crampons can be useful even on ice that is not steep). The main thing here is that the crampons match the boots. Compatibility issues are infrequent, but can still occur. Of course, only soft crampons are suitable for trekking boots. If you like semi-rigid or rigid, make sure your boots have a back welt (enough for semi-rigids), or a back and front welt (for rigid ones). If you wear shoes that are size 45 or larger, make sure the crampon clip connecting the front and back of the crampons is long enough. Some models of boots have a rounded sole on the toe for ease of walking, however, soft and semi-rigid crampons may not hold on to them very securely.

Ice ax

If, after completing a flat section, you do not plan to climb more cool ice, you should opt for a classic ice ax, with a straight shaft and a beak without a reverse deflection. If weight is not too important for you, it is worth taking an ice ax with a long shaft, which helps maintain balance on gentle slopes. Decide whether you will tie it, and if so, how exactly. I myself don’t usually tie on an ice ax, but I wouldn’t advise every beginner to do the same. On a non-steep slope, you can simply clip a standard lanyard into the hole in the beak of the ice ax.

Checking equipment before leaving or at camp?

When planning an ice climb, check that the teeth of your crampons and the beak of your ice ax are sharp.

It is very important to check whether the crampons will cling to the ropes hanging from the harness and backpack, shoe laces, and flashlight adjustments. The lanyard mustache should not hang below the knees. It is not advisable to use guy ropes longer than 25 cm - a cat’s tooth can also get stuck in them. Think about how you will remove the excess crampon strap - you can tuck it under the flashlights, tie it behind itself with a control knot, or simply cut it off if you do not plan to put the crampons on bulkier shoes.

Of course, you should match the crampons to the boots. The crampon is put on correctly if it sits on the boot only due to the friction of the vertical elements of the frame against the rubber.

A properly adjusted cat will hold even without a brace or a frog. There is no gap between the toe of the boot and the crampon platform. This way the blow is most effective

Putting on equipment

Put on your gear in advance. You shouldn’t go out onto the glacier through the snowfield and then suddenly find ice under your feet and, shaking with fear, pull on the harness and attach the crampons. When you stop, think about whether you can perform all the upcoming operations with your bare hands. If not, wear gloves whenever possible, removing them only when absolutely necessary. Before starting to move on ice, it is recommended to tighten the lacing of your boots.

If you come under the ice without flashlights, think about whether you will need them on the glacier - they are put on under crampons, and if you have to walk through deep snow in places, you will be forced to lanyard yourself right on the glacier, take off your crampons, put on flashlights and crampons , hanging on an ice screw - it is better to do this in advance.

First put on the harness, and only then the crampons (this is only relevant if your harness has permanent “legs”). Tie the ice ax to the lanyard or on a separate lanyard and put the trekking poles in your backpack (if you decide to go with an ice ax). All items of equipment that you may need when moving on the glacier should be in direct access, or at the very top of the backpack.

Ice movement technique. Maintaining balance, preventing crampons from getting caught.

By placing your foot on the full foot, you are in a much more balanced position than walking on the front teeth. Of course, four teeth penetrate ice better than twelve, but if your crampons are well sharpened, this will not be a problem even on hard ice. Therefore, with a slight steepness of the slope (up to 20º), place your foot on the full foot - this will make it easier for you to maintain balance and save strength for a more difficult section.

Place your feet a little wider than if you were moving along a slope of the same steepness without crampons - this will allow you to maintain balance and your feet will not cling to one another.

Traveling on an open glacier. I would just put my feet wider and turn my toes slightly to the sides.

Photo from the American textbook “Military Mountaineering”.

If you started practicing the movement on ice in class and not while climbing, find a safe area and practice without an ice ax first. This will allow you to better feel your balance and focus on your footwork.

Now that you understand that it is quite possible to move along the glacier without an ice axe, take it in your hand, with the beak back. There is no need to squeeze too hard - this moment it is needed only for support. Most likely, you will not be able to reach the ground with it, so on non-steep ice, up to 15°, it is needed for safety net in case of a fall, as well as to maintain balance if you suddenly stumble or stagger.

What about trekking poles?

They are long enough to rest on the ground, so maintaining balance will be much easier. If you start to fall on one side, then the chances of poking the ice with a stick and standing are much higher than with an ice ax. However, there are two problems:

Sticks that have been used extensively often have worn out tips. This isn't much of a problem on moraines, but on ice it's a different story. Imagine: you are about to jump over a small crack. You rest one stick on the other side, walk, and at that moment it slides off. Not a very pleasant feeling - I speak from personal experience. Actually, I wanted to cover this issue in a separate article, about the care of equipment, but since I started telling you - Replacement plastic tips for poles are sold in stores. But about how to put them - really, next time. How to cut yourself off? Firstly, you can walk with one ice ax and a pole. Not so convenient, but safe. Secondly, there are sticks with a handle from which a small beak sticks out. I think it’s a very good option, although I haven’t tried it myself.

Another way is to cut yourself with the sticks themselves, grabbing them together with both hands about a meter from the tips. For this method to work, the tips MUST be sharp. And the lanyards must be removed - otherwise the sticks will not be able to be quickly intercepted.