How to insert a zipper on a knitted bag. Welt pocket “in the frame” with a zipper on the bag. So, a mini-tutorial - how to sew a zipper into a pocket on a bag

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Method of sewing in a zipper this moment I consider it the best for textile bags. Of course, nothing lasts forever. And there will be something else you love, for sure. In the meantime...

Still, a bag made of fabric and leather bag- this is not the same thing at all. If a leather bag can afford simplified technologies and will only benefit from this, then a fabric bag cannot, unless this is due to style or functionality. Therefore, maximum attention to detail! The zipper with strips is the most important of them all! And it's not difficult at all. On the contrary, it’s very simple.

We start by determining the dimensions of the strips and facings.

The depth to which the zipper is lowered from the level of the bag should be 2 - 3 centimeters. Less sense no, but there’s probably no need for more. I leave seam allowances in the bag details of 1 cm. So, we will need:

  • Lightning. The length of the zipper should be at least 10 centimeters longer than the width of the bag, but within reasonable limits. Although... You can always trim it.
  • Top facing. Width = (bag width + 1 cm allowance) * 2. Height with allowances 4 - 6 centimeters. Reinforce with non-woven fabric.
  • Bottom facing. Width is the same as the top one. It’s better to cut them out altogether as one piece. Reinforce with non-woven fabric. And then cut it. It's faster that way. Width = (bag width + 1 cm allowance) * 2 Height with allowances of 5 cm or more. Don't skimp on the depth of this facing. The lining should not peek out.
  • Zipper strips. 4 pieces. Below we will determine their sizes.

Here I’ll draw a better diagram. I'm an artist now. Well, so as not to embarrass myself with my level of proficiency in graphic editors. The most important thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the slats. Better yet, let’s try to derive the formula. The diagram below shows a top view of the bag.

The first step is to decide on the width of the fastener A. It depends on the model and personal preferences. On my bag - 5 cm.

The perimeter of the pattern is equal to: Two widths of the bag without allowances. You also choose distance B yourself. I like it to be minimal, for example 0.5 cm. But it was with this bag that I realized that this distance also depends on the thickness of the bag. (You remember about 2 layers of slimtex). So here it is. On thick bags, the bend turns out to be inelastic and it needs more space to bend beautifully. Therefore, we do not always use 0.5 cm. We try 1 cm or even 1.5 cm.
Now let's calculate the length of the bar C. C = Bag width - A - 2B I, of course, simplified the formula. I decided not to use sines and cosines (and I had already forgotten). But you remember the Pythagorean theorem. And the fact that half of the free arc of the bag will not be equal to 1/2A + B. I also remember. But I won't bother. And I don’t recommend it to you. This way we will make an additional fit for elasticity. I've sewn like this many times. The formula works.
The width of the H strip without allowances will be equal to 1/2A - 1/2 the width of the zipper. Please note that the zipper can be sewn in different ways. You can leave a lot of zipper tape in a contrasting color, for example. Then the slats will be narrower. Or maybe right under the teeth. But it’s better to make the strips wider, and then align them with the sewn-in zipper. I'll tell you when, and you yourself will understand.
So, the plank with allowances is a rectangle with sides:
C with allowances = Bag width - A - 2B + 2 cm for allowances
H with allowances = 1/2A - 1/2 the width of the zipper + 2 cm for allowances

And there are 4 of them. It’s better to cut it out in one piece, reinforce it with non-woven fabric, and then cut it into four pieces. I didn’t reinforce it with non-woven fabric here. Because burlap lining is already the best non-woven fabric. But in other cases it is a must! Actually, this is the most difficult and unpleasant moment in this process - cutting out these strips. But also the most responsible. The result depends on this, and not on dancing with a tambourine with sewing machine. Therefore, we take full responsibility for cutting! After cutting, on each of the four planks, iron allowances of 1 cm on the side sections, as in the photo below.

And we cover the zipper with strips. I have already cut the zipper and trimmed the edge with a piece of leather. It's great to cover it with fabric too. But I strongly recommend doing something with the edge of the zipper, because it remains free and raw edge somehow not comme il faut. To do this, first we fix one strip with pins to the zipper braid, while hiding the tail of the zipper as in the photo so that it does not peek out later. On the other side, we apply the second half of the plank, matching the side cuts, and fix 3 layers with pins.
Sew the details on sewing machine. I use a zipper foot...

We process the other side of the zipper in the same way. Then we sew a seam on the wrong side that secures the allowances. In the photo below it is indicated by a pink line. The seam is laid exactly in the same position as in the photo, through the bottom bar, zipper tape and all allowances. The top strip is not stitched at this stage. This seam is made without preliminary ironing. It is very convenient to lay out with your hands.

But after completing this technical seam, we iron the front panel into place. Everything turns out perfect, only the side cuts are still loose and unstitched. Now, on the front side (if we have our everything - my favorite foot G, then we use it) we sew the strips on three sides (in the photo we follow the white rabbit with a pink line).

Now we iron the strips with the zipper again and cut them to size A plus 2 cm for allowances.

We mark the middles of the planks by bending the part and cutting off small corners with scissors. This is the fastest, most accurate and visual way to mark sections. And probably the most economical... Everyone definitely has scissors).

In the same way, we mark the centers on the facings of the bag (on all sides, including the lining side, then you will rejoice). If the facing is solid, then in the same way we mark the place side seam, which does not exist. Just don’t forget that if the facing is without a side seam, then fold it not exactly in half, but in half only up to the seam, as in the photo below (pink lines: left line - cuts, right line - fold).

After making the marks, we connect the zipper strips with the facings. We always start by connecting the centers, and then spread out to the sides. Here we also make sure that the edges of the planks are symmetrical. We place the strips between the facings of the bag and sew a seam 1 cm from the edge (if you calculated allowances of 1 cm).

We perform my favorite technical seam - we fix the allowances for the bottom facing (foot G will help us). I also added some lace to make the seam connecting it to the lining more beautiful. (True, then this lace began to brazenly unravel, and I cut off all the scallops, so there is no lace in the finished bag, but some kind of misunderstanding sticks out :)). We sew the facing into a ring with a seam 1 cm from the edge.

Now we sew the facing to the bag, not paying attention to the zipper. I showed in detail how to sew a facing in the tutorial on sewing bags - Birds. My basket was too thick to stitch the edge of the bag. But even without it it keeps its shape well. You also need to attach the facing to the bag, otherwise the clasp will not be secured. I don't like stitching through the seams. In my opinion, the fewer there are, the neater the product looks. So I hand stitch the facing to the bag after sewing the lining through the hole in the bag. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of this process (I got carried away by something...) In the MK on the bird bag, I showed how to fasten individual parts after sewing on the lining (and in our case you need to go around the entire perimeter).

And this is how we get the tail. In some models it suits the bag very well when it looks out. If you don’t want it, you can hide it.

https://vk.com/wall-17673217_14886

1. Sew in a zipper with facing. I first assemble the entire base of the bag and the lining, and at the end I connect them. Since there will be a facing, the size of the lining is 4 cm shorter. Here is my finished lining.

I take the zipper and visually figure out which tail to leave.

I put marks on the closed zipper.

On the lining, on both sides, I also put marks where the zipper will begin and end. It is important to fold the lining evenly along the side seam and place marks equally on both sides.

I start pinning the zipper from the tail, matching the mark on the zipper and on the lining.

I pin the entire zipper, placing the lining in place. This is done so that the zipper, after stitching, does not have waves.

When we reach the end mark of the zipper, bend the tape in this way:

We stick the second side. The folding points of the zipper tape should be at the same distance from the side seam.

Before stitching, we pin the tip of the zipper as in the photo, so that the zipper comes out of the seam equally on both sides. (The place where the tape intersects coincides with the side seam)

We sew the zipper in a circle with a continuous stitch. The line can be given a couple of millimeters from the edge of the braid.

Close the zipper and check that the tape goes into the seam equally on both sides.

Preparing the facing of the zipper, grinding down the short sections.

Pin the facing to the lining over the zipper and connect the side seams.

Before stitching, under the facing, we also pin the zipper tails again.

We sew the facing in a circle, with an even seam at the same distance from the edge.

After this, you need to bend the facing and stitch along the facing and seam allowance.

In the end it turns out like this:

The tips start at the same level.

That's all, basically, the fasteners turn out very neat. Good luck in your creativity!

Did you buy the bag of your dreams, but after a few weeks the lock suddenly stopped working? Is it really possible to throw away an almost new item? Well, of course not! There are two options to save the situation: take it to a bag repair shop or sew on a new lock. If you choose the second option, then this article is for you! Let's find out how to sew a zipper into a bag.

Procedure for replacing an old lock with a new one

First, undo the broken fastener, first marking its location. Buy a new one that is suitable in size and shade. If your bag is made of very dense material (leather or very thick fabric), do not forget to purchase needles adapted for such sewing. Choose strong threads that match the color of the bag.

So, we have everything prepared, now let's proceed directly to the replacement. How to sew a zipper into a bag?

First, using large stitches using a thread of a contrasting color, sew a new lock in place of the old one. It should be installed exactly in the place of the previous one. Open and close the zipper several times to ensure that the bag's material does not get caught anywhere between the zipper teeth. If everything suits you, you can finally sew it on.

Replace the needle in the machine with a special one, thread it and carefully sew one side of the lock to the bag with a straight stitch, maintaining a distance of 2 mm between the stitch and the teeth. Cut the thread at the end and tie a knot on the wrong side. Sew the second part in the same way. Remove the draft thread.

If the handbag is made of lightweight material, then there will be much less work - there is no need to replace the needle, and sewing is easier.

How to sew a zipper into a lined bag

Some bags are sewn with lining. If you need to sew on a zipper, decide on the size and color. The length will be equal to the width of the bag + 4 cm. Let's get started? Let's connect it to the lining as shown in the photo.

We fix it with pins or hand stitching with thread of a different color. Let's sew, fold back the material, iron the seam. Sew along the outside edge.

Let's put this pouch in your bag, choose the direction of movement of the lock individually.

Unfasten the lock, use a needle and strong thread to carefully sew the lining with a zipper, making stitches over the machine stitching and without going to the front side.

That's it - the zipper is sewn on!

Clasp for a knitted handbag

And sometimes needlewomen have a question about how to sew a zipper into knitted bag. It was created using a hook and the look without a lock is unfinished.

Take a hook and the yarn remaining from knitting the bag itself, knit 2 strip strips, the length of which is equal to the width of the bag, and the width is guided by the zipper. Sew them to the lock on both sides using neat, invisible stitches (by hand). Then sew the lining bag to the slats and attach the whole thing to your bag with a darning needle and knitting thread.

Zip lock with placket

How to sew a zipper into a bag in simple ways, we found. You can try a more complicated method - master fixing the lock in the bar.

We cut out 4 strips from the material for turning: 2 on the front side and 2 on the inside, back. The size of the stripes depends on the size of the strips, which it is desirable to obtain at the end of the work.

The width of the pattern is calculated as follows: final width of the placket / 2 + 1.5 cm per bend + 2 cm seam allowance. Let’s say the size of the finished plank will be 5 cm. Then the pattern has a width = 5 / 2 + 1.5 + 2 = 6 cm. Make it a little wider, it’s easier to trim the excess once than to redraw everything several times!

The length of our strip will be equal to the length of the zipper.

For more convenient work, purchase adhesive non-woven strips for the belt. By gluing them to the material and cutting off the excess, not forgetting about seam allowances, you don’t have to calculate anything and don’t have to draw patterns.

Apply the facing strips on both sides with the right sides to the fastener, match the edges and sew, retreating 4 mm from the zipper teeth. Fold back the strips of fabric and iron them. Let's make another line next to the fold. This is the bottom side “looking” into the bag.

Now let’s process the top: apply the prepared strips close to the teeth of the lock, but so that the fabric does not interfere with closing, and secure with pins. We attach the foot for sewing on zippers on the machine and sew next to the edge. We remove all fixing elements and iron them thoroughly.

Working with knitwear

Knitted fabric is very capricious, and the question of how to sew a zipper into a knitted bag often remains open. Since knitwear stretches greatly, waves and creases may form when sewing on a zipper. In order to avoid this, cover the back of the bag in the places where the zipper is sewn with non-woven fabric or fleece. A dolevik is a fabric strip or used to secure a problem area of ​​work to avoid stretching, shedding of threads, etc. In this role, use strips of dublerin, thermal fabric. If you don’t have all this and there’s nowhere to buy it, then take a regular one. The strips need to be glued or basted onto the seam allowances in the places where the zipper will be sewn.

Zipper for internal pocket

Almost all women love not just interesting and original, but also practical bags. This means they must have secret pockets or even several! But if in new bag there isn't one? Build them yourself, with your own hands, always with a zipper lock so that all the useful small things do not get lost. Now let’s figure out how to sew a zipper into a bag pocket.

To begin with, to simplify your work, cover the fabric with dublerin or non-woven fabric - the lining fabric is usually very thin and soft. On the wrong side, in places with a glued seal, draw a frame, the width of which is equal to the width of the “dog”, and the length is equal to the zipper itself. Mark the corners for cutting. Cut out a piece (pocket) from the lining fabric that you will sew to this frame. Go through the entire perimeter of the drawn frame, cut the corners of the material very close to the stitching, and turn the pocket inside out. Iron everything very well, sew a zipper into this slot, at the closest distance to the edges of the fabric.

Many of you are ready to sew wonderful bags or crochet and knit them; some of you have several items that are not used due to a broken lock. Now you have learned how to sew a zipper into a bag - it’s completely easy. After trying it once, you will definitely return to this lesson, you will be very pleased with yourself and the result of your work!

I’m always afraid to publish my master classes (MK), I’m self-taught :) Maybe I’m doing something wrong, masters, don’t be angry.
But the latest MK How to sew a lining and a zipper to a felted bag collected a lot positive feedback, among which there were suggestions that in this way it is possible to sew a zipper to both a knitted bag and a sewn one.
I sew a zipper to a sewn bag a little differently, this is what MK will be about today :)

I’ll insert a photo from the previous MK, since the steps are similar:

we cut out the lining, sew on all the necessary pockets, sew on the sides and bottom, leaving an unsewn area of ​​15-20 cm “at the bottom,” pin and sew in a zipper.

Attention! Here the height of the lining will be 4-5 cm less than the height of the bag. These 4-5 cm from above will be added by facing

Now we have a lining bag with a sewn zipper.

1. Prepare 2 facing parts, sew them into a ring, press the seam allowances in different directions.
2. We combine the lining and facing face to face, it is better to put the bag inside the facing ring.

3. Sew along the line of sewing the zipper or 1-2 mm further from the edge
4. I leave the area near the end of the zipper unsewn.

5. Turn the facing up, allowances down, and iron the seam.
6. It needs to be stitched; I sew up the unstitched area by hand using small stitches.

7. The front side of the bag is already ready, we pin the handles

8. Place the lining inside face to face

9. Sew in circles

10. Turn the bag inside out through the unstitched “bottom” on the lining.

Somehow there were a lot of photos :) But it takes longer to tell than to sew! Good luck!


The method of sewing a zipper, which I will now show, is currently considered the best for textile bags. Of course, nothing lasts forever. And there will be something else you love, for sure. In the meantime... I present to you my favorite :).

Still, a fabric bag and a leather bag are not the same thing at all. If a leather bag can afford simplified technologies and will only benefit from this, then a fabric bag cannot, unless this is due to style or functionality.

Therefore, maximum attention to detail!

The zipper with strips is the most important of them all! And it's not difficult at all. On the contrary, it’s very simple.
«»


We start by determining the dimensions of the strips and facings.

The depth to which the zipper is lowered from the level of the bag should be 2 - 3 centimeters. There is no point in less, but more is probably not necessary.

I leave seam allowances on the bag parts at 1 cm.

So, we need:

1. Lightning. The length of the zipper should be at least 10 centimeters longer than the width of the bag, but within reasonable limits. Although... You can always trim it.

2. Top facing.
Width = (bag width + 1 cm allowance) * 2.
Height with allowances 4 - 6 centimeters. Reinforce with non-woven fabric.

3. Bottom facing.
Width is the same as the top one. It’s better to cut them out altogether as one piece. Reinforce with non-woven fabric. And then cut it. It's faster that way.
Width = (bag width + 1 cm allowance) * 2
Height with allowances of 5 cm or more. Don't skimp on the depth of this facing. The lining should not peek out.

4. Zipper strips. 4 pieces.
Below we will determine their sizes.


Here I’ll draw a better diagram. I'm an artist now. Well, so as not to embarrass myself with my level of proficiency in graphic editors.

The diagram below shows a top view of the bag.


The first step is to decide on the width of the fastener A.
It depends on the model and personal preferences. On my bag - 5 cm.

The perimeter of the pattern is equal to: Two widths of the bag without allowances.

You also choose distance B yourself. I like it to be minimal, like 0.5 cm.
But it was on this bag that I realized that this distance also depends on the thickness of the bag. (You remember about 2 layers of slimtex :)). So here it is. On thick bags, the bend turns out to be inelastic and it needs more space to bend beautifully.
Therefore, we do not always use 0.5 cm. We try 1 cm or even 1.5 cm.

Now let's calculate the length of the bar C.

C = Bag width - A - 2B

Of course, I simplified the formula. I decided not to use sines and cosines (and I had already forgotten).

But you remember the Pythagorean theorem. And the fact that half of the free arc of the bag will not be equal to 1/2A + B. I also remember. But I won't bother. And I don’t recommend it to you.
This way we will make an additional fit for elasticity. I've sewn like this many times. The formula works.

It's like on airplanes. My husband told me. He once designed rockets. It’s the same there: first they take a long, long time to calculate, then they make profiles based on the calculations, and then they blow them in wind tunnels anyway. Check the calculations in practice.

The bag, of course, is not a rocket. But tested in practice :)

The width of the H strip without allowances will be equal to 1/2A - 1/2 the width of the zipper.
Please note that the zipper can be sewn in different ways. You can leave a lot of zipper tape in a contrasting color, for example. Then the slats will be narrower. Or maybe right under the teeth. It depends, in short.
But it’s better to make the strips wider, and then align them with the sewn-in zipper. I'll tell you when, and you yourself will understand.

So, the plank with allowances is a rectangle with sides:

C with allowances = Bag width - A - 2B + 2 cm for allowances

H with allowances = 1/2A - 1/2 zipper width + 2 cm for allowances

And there are 4 of them. It’s better to cut it out in one piece, reinforce it with non-woven fabric, and then cut it into four pieces.
I didn’t reinforce it with non-woven fabric here. Because burlap lining is already the best non-woven fabric. But in other cases it is a must!

Actually, this is the most difficult and unpleasant moment in this process - cutting out these strips. But also the most responsible. The result depends on this, and not on dancing with a tambourine with a sewing machine.

Therefore, we take full responsibility for cutting!

After cutting, on each of the four planks, iron allowances of 1 cm on the side sections, as in the photo below.


And we cover the zipper with strips.

I have already cut the zipper and trimmed the edge with a piece of leather. It's great to cover it with fabric too. But I highly recommend doing something with the edge of the zipper, because it remains loose and the raw edge is somehow not comme il faut.

To do this, first we fix one strip with pins to the zipper braid, while hiding the tail of the zipper as in the photo so that it does not peek out later.

On the other side, we apply the second half of the plank, matching the side cuts, and fix 3 layers with pins.



We sew the parts together using a sewing machine. I use a zipper foot...


We process the other side of the zipper in the same way.

Then we sew a seam on the wrong side that secures the allowances. In the photo below it is indicated by a pink line. The seam is laid exactly in the same position as in the photo, through the bottom bar, zipper tape and all allowances. The top strip is not stitched at this stage. This seam is made without preliminary ironing. It is very convenient to lay out with your hands.


But after completing this technical seam, we iron the front panel into place.

Everything turns out perfect, only the side cuts are still loose and unstitched.

Now, on the front side (if we have our everything - my favorite foot G, then we use it) we sew the strips on three sides (in the photo we follow the white rabbit with a pink line).





In the same way, we mark the centers on the facings of the bag (on all sides, including the lining side, then you will rejoice). If the facing is solid, then in the same way we mark the place of the side seam, which is not there.
Just don’t forget that if the facing is without a side seam, then fold it not exactly in half, but in half only up to the seam, as in the photo below (pink lines: left line - cuts, right line - fold).


After making the marks, we connect the zipper strips with the facings.

We always start by connecting the centers, and then spread out to the sides.
Here we also make sure that the edges of the planks are symmetrical.

We place the strips between the facings of the bag and sew a seam 1 cm from the edge (if you calculated allowances of 1 cm).


We perform my favorite technical seam - we fix the allowances for the bottom facing (foot G will help us).

I also added some lace to make the seam connecting it to the lining more beautiful. (True, then this lace began to brazenly unravel, and I cut off all the scallops, so there is no lace in the finished bag, but some kind of misunderstanding sticks out :)).

We sew the facing into a ring with a seam 1 cm from the edge.


Now we sew the facing to the bag, not paying attention to the zipper.

I showed in detail how to sew a facing in the MK on sewing bags - Birds.

My basket was too thick to stitch the edge of the bag. But even without it it keeps its shape well.

You also need to attach the facing to the bag, otherwise the clasp will not be secured. I don't like stitching through the seams. In my opinion, the fewer there are, the neater the product looks. So I hand stitch the facing to the bag after sewing the lining through the hole in the bag. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of this process (I got carried away by something...) In the MK on the bird bag, I showed how to fasten individual parts after sewing on the lining (and in our case you need to go around the entire perimeter).

And this is how we get the tail. In some models it suits the bag very well when it looks out. If you don't want it, you can hide it.