How to sew a shirt with your own hands? Tailoring master class and recommendations for choosing the design of male and female models. How to build a pattern for the base of a men's shirt How to start sewing a women's shirt

The idea to start sewing men's clothing sometimes frightens even experienced needlewomen who have already got their hands on the manufacture of women's and children's products. And the seams are not the same, and the slats and collars are processed differently - it can be difficult to abandon the usual techniques. But if you want to please your loved one - why not try? Moreover, in fact, everything turns out to be not so difficult. In addition, some of the fair sex try to have things in their wardrobe in men's style, so new tricks will not be superfluous. How to sew a shirt will be discussed in our article.

Types of shirts

Before sewing a women's shirt, it will be very useful for beginners to deal with men's sewing. Men's shirts are divided into two types:

  • summer;
  • tie shirts.

A summer shirt has an open collar, while a shirt has it on a stand - this is a more complex option. It's better to start with summer. She also has the advantage that such a product can be sewn from bright and even colorful fabric so that the mistakes inevitable at the first stage do not spoil general form. In addition, a summer shirt can also be assembled with a regular seam, with open sections processed with an overlock. But if you want to make a branded product, you need to immediately master the sewing seam.

Trying the seam

This option for connecting parts is also called a linen seam, since it is used for the manufacture of duvet covers, pillowcases and other similar products. To sew a shirt, you need to be confident enough to own this, in fact, a fairly ordinary technology.

The main version of the sewing seam is performed in several stages:

  1. Cut 2 identical pieces.
  2. Determine which side the allowance will be ironed on - this part should be on top when applied.
  3. Fold the blanks so that the cut of the lower part protrudes 2-5 mm.
  4. Bend the allowance of the bottom piece to the top.
  5. Sweep and stitch the pieces.
  6. Spread the workpiece in one layer with the right side up.
  7. Iron the allowance on the side of the part that was on top.
  8. Iron the seam on the front side.
  9. Sew the seam allowance 1 mm from the fold - it is better to use a seam with a bartack.
  10. Iron the seam on both sides.

Important! All the details of a classic men's shirt are stitched in this way. But nothing prevents the use of this connection method when sewing summer shirts - both men's and women's.

Preparation

Knowing the main seam, you can quickly find a way to sew a men's shirt - the master class will not take so much time. The question immediately arises, where to get the pattern:

  • It is best to order it in the studio, because everything will be done strictly according to the standards. It will come in handy more than once if you are going to sheathe your lover further.
  • But not everyone has such an opportunity, but building a pattern on your own is a rather painstaking task (although the process is described in great detail in old sewing publications).
  • The most popular options are to translate from a fashion magazine or download on the Internet, fortunately, many fashion houses have their own websites and regularly post patterns along with manufacturing instructions.
  • The traditional home option, when an unnecessary but suitable product is torn apart, is not very suitable here - there is a lot of fuss with sewing seams. But, if there is no other way, then this one can be used. The main thing is not to cut the seams, but to carefully rip them apart. It is better to iron the allowances, rather than cut them off, so that if necessary, the pattern can be corrected.

Choosing a fabric

Shirts are most often sewn from shirt fabric. The summer version can also be made from ordinary chintz or satin. Adhesive calico is usually used to strengthen the collar. In all cases, it must be taken into account that this product is washed quite often, so the fabric should not shrink.

To avoid trouble, the material must be decoded:

  1. Soak the cut in warm water.
  2. Gently wring it out, but do not twist it
  3. Let it dry a bit to keep it moist.
  4. Lay it out on a horizontal surface with the wrong side up.
  5. Dry with an iron.
  6. Do the same procedure with coarse calico.

Important! The fabric should not be folded in half - this way it is very easy to iron the fold, and then it will be very difficult to smooth it out.

cutting

If you took a pattern from a magazine, it indicates how the details should be cut:

  • along the shared thread;
  • along the transverse;
  • obliquely.

Arrows are usually placed on the drawings, which must be translated into patterns. If for some reason the arrows are missing, follow a few common principles:

  1. The main details - a shelf, a back, a sleeve - are cut along the share.
  2. The yoke, riser and cuffs are located transversely.
  3. When cutting, a monophonic fabric is folded along, the edges are combined.

Important! In magazines and on specialized sites, halves of the drawings of racks, yokes and cuffs are usually given. This is not very convenient. It is much better to cut them out of paper entirely, and then transfer them to fabric. But if the cut is large enough, you can cut it in half, aligning the middle cuts with the fold of the fabric.

Transfer the patterns to the fabric (if you have a plain shirt fabric, it is better to use a special aqua marker for this purpose, which is easily washed off) and make allowances of 1.5 cm in all sections. Small details are cut with an allowance of 1 cm. These fragments include:

  • collar;
  • rack;
  • pockets;
  • cuffs;
  • facing cuts of sleeves;
  • planks.

Important! If the fabric is striped, the cut should be folded so that the edges of the strips match, not the edges.

Strengthening the details

It will be much easier to assemble the product if you prepare all the details in advance. You should start by strengthening the collar. Adhesive calico can have different stiffness - soft calico is taken for summer shirts, harder for office shirts, and if you need a collar for a tie, the toughest calico is glued in two layers.

The collar for an office shirt requires special attention, because the layers in it are different. One gasket has an allowance, the other does not. Therefore, we do this:

  1. We glue a detail with an allowance on the upper collar.
  2. We glue the second layer on top of the first, this workpiece does not have an allowance. The pad is ironed so that it does not come off after several washes.

In principle, the second layer does not have to be glued to the entire part. You can only strengthen the corners in this way if the calico is thick enough.

Important! There is another way - special plastic bones inserted into the drawstrings.

plank

There are two types of slats on shirts:

  • double;
  • male.

Double plank

Its width is 2-4 cm, depending on the style. No allowance is left along the edge.

Option 1:

  1. Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf.
  2. Stitch it at a distance of 1 mm from the fold.

Option 2:

  1. As in the first case, iron the bar twice on the wrong side.
  2. Mark places for buttons and loops.
  3. When the product is ready and the buttons are sewn into place, the bar will fix itself.

Men's plank

It differs from the double one in that it is done only on the left shelf - where the loops are located. On the other side is the usual double, buttons are sewn on it. The width is 3-4 cm, plus 1 cm for processing:

  1. Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf.
  2. At a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold, make a line.
  3. Unscrew the bar so that the cut is in the fold.
  4. Iron on.
  5. Lay the second line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold.

Assembly of the main parts

It's time to do the shelf. In classical male pattern it consists of two parts - the actual shelves and the barrel. Select the seam you will use to sew the pieces to sew the shirt:

  1. Sew the barrel to the part of the shelf - you need to do this from the side of the barrel.
  2. Sew the yoke to the shelf and back - when folding the parts (as in the description of the seam), the yoke will be from below.

double coquette

In classic men's shirts, the coquette is often made double. In this case, no allowances are visible. What's the matter?

  1. Pin the front and back pieces onto one of the yoke pieces.
  2. Roll up the shelves and back with a rudder and roll it onto a yoke.
  3. Lay the second part of the yoke face down on this entire design.
  4. Stitch both details of the coquettes, capturing the main blanks as well.
  5. Trim the allowances so that no more than 5 mm remain.
  6. Pull out the main parts through the neck.
  7. Iron the seams.

The most important task is completed, it remains only to delay the coquettes along the seams, as well as sew the neck sections.

One of the main technological differences in the manufacture of men's and women's shirts is the order in which the details are ground:

  • When sewing women's shirts first connect the shoulder and side seams, and only then the sleeve is sewn in.
  • IN men's clothing- on the contrary, the sleeve must be planted in the armhole before the side seams and even the seam of the sleeve itself are completed. To do this, you will need a certain number of pins - it is more convenient to stick the part in, and not to sweep it in.

Here is the standard order:

  1. Fasten the sleeve in the armhole - do not forget about the marks on the collar.
  2. Sew the part - this should be done from the side of the sleeve.
  3. If the seam is regular, the allowance is ironed on the armhole, and then a line is laid along the armhole.
  4. Sew with one line the side seams of the front and back and the seam of the sleeve itself.

Important! If you used a regular seam, overcast the seam allowances together and then press them to the side of the back.

Sleeves

Sleeve placket

The appearance of the product largely depends on how well the various small parts are processed. Particularly the sleeve trims. There are several options, but the most popular is the following:

  1. Mark a 12-14 cm incision - it should be at the back.
  2. Cut out the bar, which should be 16-18 cm long and 7 cm wide.
  3. Sew it along the slit on the side where the distance from the seam to the slit is greater.
  4. Make a cut so that about one and a half centimeters or even a little less remain to the edge of the line.
  5. At the end of the cut, cut a triangle towards the end of the stitch.
  6. Iron the allowance that goes along the bar onto it.
  7. Turn the free edge of the cut twice 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.
  8. Iron the triangle up.
  9. Iron the bar itself into the cut, and then fold it in half lengthwise and iron it too so that the fold covers the seam with which the part was sewn.

Important! As for the upper edge of the bar, it is folded into a corner and adjusted to the sleeve.

cuffs

Glue the outer part of the cuff with coarse calico to almost finish sewing the men's shirt (there should be an allowance on the lining):

  1. Iron the bottom cut to the wrong side.
  2. Attach the allowance.
  3. Place both cuff pieces together right sides together.
  4. Sew them.
  5. Cut the allowances to 0.5 cm, in the corners - obliquely.
  6. Turn out the cuff.
  7. Iron her.
  8. Lay the folds along the bottom of the sleeve - the folds should be located on the side of the cut.
  9. Place the cuff so that its reinforced part is on the front side.
  10. Attach.
  11. Iron the allowances towards the cuff.
  12. Mask the seam from the front side by bending the reinforced part of the cuff so that it covers the line.
  13. Sew the cuff to the edge, then topstitch.

Collar

One of the main details men's shirts- yes, and female, however, too. It's already prepared for you. Then proceed like this:

  1. Cut the lower part (on which there is no coarse calico) along the upper and side cuts.
  2. Mark the midpoints of both collar pieces.
  3. Align the details.
  4. Fold them right sides to each other, chip or sweep, aligning all the cuts.
  5. Stitch the details from the bottom side, making cross stitches in the corners.
  6. Trim the corner allowances 1mm from the seam.
  7. Trim straight seam allowances to 0.5 cm from the seam.
  8. Iron the allowance on the lower collar.
  9. Turn out the part.
  10. Straighten the corners.
  11. Iron so that the edge of the top collar overlaps slightly with the bottom one.
  12. Sew the bottom edges
  13. Fold the collar in half.
  14. Check the corners and trim the bottom cut.
  15. Sew the collar, turning Special attention at the corners (it is better to lay an auxiliary thread there).

Rack

In any case, the stand should be somewhat stiffer than the collar. At the same time, the part that will be in contact with the neck is glued together with allowances, and the outer part is strictly according to the pattern:

  1. Iron the allowances of the inner part of the allowances from the side of the neck to the wrong side.
  2. Lay a line along the bottom edge, grabbing and cut the allowance.
  3. Place a collar on the outer stand so that the glued side of it is on top.
  4. Align the parts and stitch along the top of the racks, and trim the allowances.
  5. Unscrew the stand.
  6. Iron.
  7. Mark the sewing line along the fold of the outer rack.
  8. Sweep and stitch the collar, iron the allowance towards the stand.
  9. Baste the stand so that the hem lies on the line.
  10. As with all small details, sew along the edge.

Bottom

Well, almost everything is ready, it remains to process the bottom:

  1. Fold the seam allowance on the wrong side by 0.7 cm.
  2. Iron.
  3. Bend the allowance again to the same distance.
  4. Sew it at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold.

It remains to make loops and sew on buttons.

Women's shirt

Having once tried to sew a men's shirt, you will very easily find the answer to the question of how to sew a women's shirt. Yes, almost the same, only the fastener is made on the other side, that is, the bar with loops will be on the right shelf. In this case, you can safely use ordinary seams. There are many options for processing the bottom - it can, for example, be made curly. As for small details, they need to be strengthened in the same way so that they keep their shape better. All paired details are strengthened:

  • rack;
  • collar;
  • cuffs.

As for the sequence in which it is most convenient to sew a women's shirt with your own hands, it will be as follows:

  1. Treat all slats in the same way as for a men's shirt.
  2. Sweep the product for the first fitting, if necessary - lay a fold along the back, while it is not necessary to assemble the yoke, you can limit yourself to one detail.
  3. Sew a yoke and connect it to the front and back.
  4. Attach sleeves.
  5. Process the collar in the way already described.
  6. Sew on the collar.
  7. Process the bottom, sew on the buttons and make loops.

No pattern

Is it possible to sew a shirt with long sleeve do it yourself without a pattern quickly? Nothing is impossible! Only it will not be a classic shirt - rather, something in folk style, because before they sewed shirts without any patterns. It will turn out to be one-piece, and as a collar, you can make a low stand. Although nothing prevents the connection different types cut - for example, make a shelf, back and sleeves in the form of rectangles, but sew on classic cuffs and a classic collar. Of course, it will be a women's shirt, and a very interesting style.

The pattern is a few rectangles - 2 shelves, 1 back, 2 sleeves. When stitching the collar, the neckline is swept and laid in assemblies, the bottom of the sleeves too.

Important! Such a shirt can also be made with a solid shelf by making a cut in the front or back.

footage

Thus, sewing even a classic shirt is not so difficult, the main thing is to follow the technology and perform all operations patiently and accurately. As for non-traditional models, modern fashion is so democratic that any novice needlewoman can come up with something interesting, including the representatives of the stronger sex.

A shirt is an outer garment that always has sleeves. It can be both warm and light, and is also worn by both sexes in the modern world.
Sewing a shirt with your own hands is not so difficult. First you need to decide what kind of shirt you want to end up with. In this article, we will present the most popular options: how to sew a shirt for women, for men, a christening shirt and a dress shirt.

How to sew a men's shirt with your own hands

To sew a men's shirt with your own hands you will need:

  • textile;
  • sewing threads;
  • scissors;
  • sewing machine;
  • pattern;
  • ruler;
  • pins.

patterns

Patterns can be drawn on paper or newspaper with a pencil or pen. Make sure the pattern is absolutely symmetrical.

Measurements to be taken from a man:

  • height;
  • chest girth (OG);
  • waist circumference (FROM);
  • sleeve length (DR);
  • neck girth (OSh);
  • back length to waist;
  • wrist girth (OZ);
  • shoulder length (DP);
  • length of the product.

The length of the sleeve and product is measured taking into account the estimated lengths, it can also be measured on a man's factory shirts. Also measure the length of the back to the waist (from the shoulders).
Next, we give auxiliary measurements that are calculated from the main ones and are needed to create patterns:

  • back width (SHSp). For an exhaust gas less than 112 cm, it is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.2 and minus 1 cm. If an exhaust gas is greater than 112 cm, then the SHSP is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.1 and plus 10.5 cm;
  • armhole width (SHPr). It equals the OG multiplied by 0.1 and plus 2 cm;
  • chest width (SHG). For an exhaust gas less than 112 cm, it is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.2 and minus 1 cm. If an exhaust gas is greater than 112 cm, then the SPR is considered as an exhaust gas multiplied by 0.5 minus SSP and minus SPR;
  • armhole depth (GPr). It is considered as OG multiplied by 0.1 and plus 15 cm;
  • back neck length (DGsp). It is equal to one sixth of the OG;
  • cuff length (DM). It is calculated as OZ plus 5 cm.

In addition, in order for a man to be able to freely wear a shirt, the following increases must be made:

  • 5.5 cm for exhaust gas;
  • 1.3 cm for SHSP;
  • 3.5 cm for SPR;
  • 0.7 cm for SHG;
  • 3 cm for SPR.

Building a pattern for the main part of the shirt

Do the calculations, and then you can verify that the results are correct. To do this, add up the calculated values ​​of SSP, SPR, SGR. You should get 0.5 OG
To facilitate the construction of the pattern of the main part of the shirt, draw a grid as in the figure below, where the distance between AB is multiplied by 0.5 OG plus 5.5 cm, and AH is equal to the length of the future shirt.
The distance from A to D is the GPR, and from A to T is the length of the back to the waist. Draw horizontal lines from G, T and a vertical line from B, mark points G1 and T1 at their intersection, respectively.
On the GG1 line, mark the points G3, G4 and G2 (as shown in the figure) so that from G to G3 the distance is WGR plus 0.7 cm, from G3 to G2 - SPR plus 3.5 cm. It should turn out that from G2 to G1, the distance is equal to ShSp plus 1.3 cm. Point G4 is marked in the center of the G3G2 line.
From G4 down draw (perpendicular to GG1) a line to the intersection with H, call the resulting point H1. The point where the lines TT1 and G4H1 intersect is denoted by T2. Set aside 2 cm to the left of T2 and mark the point through T3, and 1.5 cm to the right and mark it as T4, and draw a line from G4 to H1 along the pattern through T3 and T4 (as shown in the figure).
To the left of point B, set aside DGsp plus 1 cm, the resulting point is marked as B1. Set aside 2 cm upwards from point B1 - this point is marked as B2 and a curved line is drawn through it to B along the pattern according to the figure.
From G3, lay a line up (perpendicular to GG1) until it intersects with the line AB, call the resulting point P2. Also, exactly from G2, lay a line up to the intersection with AB and designate it as P.
Distinguish 3 cm down from point P, call the resulting point P1. Connect B2 and P1 along the ruler and draw further so that this line is equal to DP plus 0.5 cm in length. The end point is indicated by B3.
From P2, lay down 4 cm and designate the point as P3. From point A, set aside DGsp and designate the point as A2. Connect A2 to point P3 (as shown in the figure) and draw further, taking into account that the distance should be equal to DP plus 0.5 cm. The end point is indicated by A3.
Divide the armhole lines (PG2 and P2G3) into 5 equal parts (in the figure, equal segments are marked with crosses, mark points C1, C2, C3 and C4 as shown). Set aside horizontally 1.5 cm from C1 to the left, 0.7 cm from C2, then draw a curve through the obtained points using a pattern until it intersects B3 at one end and G4 at the other.
Set aside 0.5 cm from C3 and draw a curve along the pattern through the obtained point and C4 until it intersects with A3 from one end and G4 from the other.
From point A, lay down DGsp plus 2, mark the resulting point as A1. Connect according to the pattern A2 and A1.
Make an allowance for the bar - from point A1 set aside 4.5 cm to the left and draw down to the level of HH2 and connect to point H as shown in the figure.
If you want a pocket, place it as shown in the picture (5.5 cm from the D-point, pocket 12 cm wide, 15 cm long).

Building a sleeve pattern

Measure the length of the armhole on the pattern of the main part. 1/3 of the value obtained minus 5 cm is the distance OO1 on the sleeve pattern shown below, and the length of the armhole of the main drawing, multiplied by 0.5 and minus 2 cm, is the length of the lines O1P and O1P1.
Focusing on the presented sleeve pattern, lay down a horizontal line from point O to point H through point O1 (the distance to which has already been indicated earlier). The distance from O to H is calculated as DR minus 1.
From point O1, set aside to the left and right (perpendicular to the OH line) the calculated values ​​of O1P and O1P1. Designate the obtained points as P and P1, respectively. Connect points O with P and P1 using a pattern according to the figure.
From the point H, set aside to the left and right (also perpendicular to the OH line) two points (in the figure it is H1 and symmetrical to it), assuming that the distance to them is the length of the cuff of the sleeve, which is multiplied by 0.5 and plus 4 cm.
Mark the cutting line at half the distance HH1. The length of the cut is 10-12 cm.

Building a cuff pattern

The cuff pattern is built according to the figure below. Two variants of the cuff are given: with or without a cufflink. The distance AB is equal to DM.


Construction of a collar pattern

The collar pattern is built according to the figure below, where AB equals DGsp plus 1.5 cm, and AD equals BC for all shirt sizes and equals 11 cm.


Making a shirt

Product stitching process

After you draw all the above patterns, cut out and, pinned to the fabric with pins, cut off the corresponding blanks (remember that you should have two pieces for each part, and also do not forget to cut out the pocket separately).

Try on the pocket (if it is intended) and parts of the collar and sew to the main part in the appropriate places. Sweep and grind tucks. Then you need to sweep the main part along the side and shoulder seams and stitch. Sew the sleeves at the seam, but why sew into the armholes of the shirt.

How to sew a women's shirt with your own hands

To understand how to sew a women's shirt, you can familiarize yourself with the material presented above about a men's shirt. The principle of pattern development is almost the same, with only minor changes. You can learn more about the pattern of a women's shirt here: http://korfiati.ru/2008/12/kak-sshit-bluzku/.
Pattern details are also sewn on a sewing machine in the same way as a men's shirt.

How to sew a shirt dress with your own hands

There are many different variations of dress shirts, below is one of the possible.
To sew a shirt dress with your own hands you will need:

  • textile;
  • sewing threads;
  • scissors;
  • sewing machine;
  • paper (or newspaper) and a pencil (or pen) for a pattern;
  • pattern;
  • ruler;
  • pins.

patterns

Draw the patterns for the shirt dress pieces as shown below.

:



Sizes are taken and put down in the same way as a men's shirt.

In total, you should get the following details:

  • back - 1 detail;
  • before - 1 detail;
  • sleeve - 2 parts;
  • collar - 2 parts;
  • pocket - 1 detail.

Product stitching process

Cut out patterns, and then, pinning them to the fabric, cut out all the indicated details in the appropriate amount.
Then everything is done with a sewing machine.
Try on the pocket and parts of the collar and sew to the dress in the appropriate places. Sweep and grind tucks. Sweep the dress along the side and shoulder seams, stitch. Sew the sleeves along the seam, but why sew into the armholes of the dress.

How to sew a baptismal shirt with your own hands

To sew a baptismal shirt with your own hands you will need:

  • fabric (white, material of your choice, but must be thin enough, standard use
  • cambric, calico or thin poplin);
  • sewing threads (white);
  • scissors;
  • sewing machine;
  • paper (or newspaper) and a pencil (or pen) for a pattern;
  • ruler;
  • pins.

However, many people want to sew not just a baptismal shirt, but also decorate it. For this you will additionally need:

  • embroidery threads (usually gold);
  • Embroidery Machine;
  • detachable stabilizer;
  • iron;
  • hoop;
  • needle;
  • ribbon or lace.

Pattern

The pattern can be drawn on paper or newspaper with a pencil or pen. Make sure the pattern is absolutely symmetrical.

Measures to be taken from the child:

  • chest girth (OG);
  • neck girth (OSh);
  • arm circumference (OR);
  • length (estimated length of the christening shirt, if you want to knee length - measure from shoulders to knees).

Draw a pattern on paper, adhering to the following principles:

  • the width of the shirt is OG plus 10 cm (if you do not want a too loose shirt, you can add 7 cm);
  • add 2 cm to the OSH - this is the width of the round neck;
  • We set aside 2 cm from the top of the neck deep and draw a smooth rounded line (if it is not entirely clear, look in the pattern diagram below);
  • add 8 cm to the OP - this is the width of the sleeve;
  • the length of the sleeve is half the exhaust gas. Here, too, if desired, you can add 2 cm;
  • there should be a rounding in the transition area from the main part to the sleeve. Set aside 1/6 of the OG from the point of intersection of the sleeve and the main part towards the sleeve and down towards the bottom edge. The resulting points must be connected with a smooth round line (if it is not entirely clear, look in the pattern diagram below);
  • The length of the shirt is up to you. It is recommended to add 2 cm to the intentional, but it is not necessary. The standard length of a christening shirt is 40-50 cm.

As a result, the pattern will look something like this, where your dimensions will be marked:

The process of making a baptismal shirt

After completing the pattern, it should be cut out and attached to the white fabric chosen for the shirt. Fold it in half to make sure that the pattern is completely symmetrical, if it is not, then carefully adjust to achieve symmetry. Remember that there should be enough fabric on the front and back of the product. Fold the fabric in half and pin the pattern to it with pins so that the base of the neck of the product and future sleeves are on the fold line (in the pattern figure this line is marked in red). Carefully trace everything along the contour, except for the lines marked in red in the pattern drawing. Peel off the pattern and cut along the lines you marked. Straighten the bend, you should get approximately as in the figure given below.

After that, fold the shirt again along the fold line and carefully sew the lines from the wrong side on the typewriter (the side on which you will sew will be the wrong side), marked in the image with red and blue numbers (i.e. line 5 is sewn with line 3, 6 with 2, 7 with 1, and 9 with 15, 10 with 14, 11 with 13) retreating from the edge of about 1 cm. The lines marked in green and purple remain unsewn, however, if you are not going to decorate the shirt, then these lines should be swept.
Turn the stitched shirt inside out (the seams should be inside). If no shirt decorations are planned, then the baptismal shirt is ready.

Christening Gown Decorations

This is an optional part, but makes the shirt more beautiful. With embroidery threads, you can depict a certain pattern, as a rule, this is a cross. If you have an embroidery machine, then embroider a golden cross on the stabilizer using it, then remove the excess part of the stabilizer and sew on the cross. Attach the cross to the front of the baptismal shirt and through an additional layer of fabric (you can take a piece left from the shirt) iron the cross with an iron. This way it sticks to the shirt. If you don't have an embroidery machine, you can make a cross by hand using a hoop, gold thread and a needle.
A ribbon or lace can be carefully sewn to the neck using a machine. Optionally, you can make a cut in the neckline in front, if you make it, then do not forget to sew a ribbon or lace on the cut. Next, sew ribbons or lace to the sleeves and hem using a sewing machine as well.
Your baptismal shirt is ready!

The men's shirt has been a classic for many years. male fashion, is a sign of good taste and elegance. The shirt looks good in both business and informal settings. Silk and wool, denim and plaid, strict striped and romantic with a frill - there are never too many shirts in a man's wardrobe.

Recently typed in the search: "to sew a men's shirt." As usual, helpful Google and Yandex offered a lot of various articles, of which I especially liked one article, or rather the line (I quote literally): "sew a shirt for a man with your own hands and you will give him not only an excellent hand-made thing, but also share your own mood." I don’t know what about a great hand-made thing, but the mood after such lines really rises.

The master class "How to sew a men's shirt" will be divided into 5 sections:

  1. MK 1: ;
  2. MK 2: ;
  3. MK 3: ;
  4. MK 4: ... And also - the final processing of a men's shirt - hemming the bottom of the product, overcasting buttonholes and sewing on buttons;
  5. MK 5: .
Making a men's shirt begins with taking measurements and building a pattern.

You can make a pattern for a men's shirt like this:

  1. Rip open an old men's shirt, iron the details with an iron, transfer the contours of the details to paper, cut them out and the men's shirt pattern is ready.
  2. Build a pattern of a men's shirt from magazines and books.
  3. Download a free pattern for a men's shirt via the Internet and print it on a printer.
I used point #2.

Fabric consumption (plaid flannel) for a men's shirt is calculated as follows:

  • with a fabric width of 1 m 50 cm = one shirt length + one sleeve length + 40 cm for cuffs, collar, pockets, etc.
  • with a fabric width of 1 m 10 cm = two shirt lengths + one sleeve length + 50 cm for cuffs, collar, pockets, etc.

The flannel fabric must be decanted before cutting - rinse in hot water, dry, iron with a hot iron from the wrong side.

When cutting a men's shirt, attach all the details with pins along the shared thread on the fabric folded in half. Lay the pattern of the front of the men's shirt 1 cm from the edges, and align the middle of the back, yoke of the back, collar, collar stand with the fold of the fabric. The strips for processing the front fasteners can be cut out in one piece (as, for example, I cut out), or as separate parts in the shared, transverse or oblique directions. The length of the straps of a men's shirt is equal to the length of the fastener, and the width is 3 cm in ready-made(with allowances for seams - about 5-6 cm). Pockets and flaps can be cut out in any direction, however, I cut them out along the shared thread in such a way that the rapport of the pattern on the pockets, flaps and shelves coincided.

Seam allowances - 1.2-1.5 cm on each side of the men's shirt cut detail.

From interlining or any other cushioning fabric, cut out a collar, collar stand, cuffs, valves according to the already cut out details of a men's shirt from the main fabric.

Men's shirt cut details:

1. Back - 1 piece

2. Shelf with a one-piece bar - 2 parts

3. Back yoke - 1 piece

4. Sleeve - 2 parts

5. Cuff - 2 parts

6. Collar - 2 parts

8. Invoice pocket - 2 parts

9. Pocket valve - 2 parts

10. Facing sleeves (piping) - 2 parts

Details of cut from adhesive interlining:

5. Cuff - 2 parts

6. Collar - 2 parts

7. Collar stand - 2 parts

9. Pocket valve - 2 parts

To your question why I called the article "Sewing a men's shirt is easy!", I will answer this way: I really think that sewing a men's shirt is easy. As a rule, the fabric for men's shirts is natural (or "conditionally" natural), from which it is a pleasure to sew - sewing machine it sews perfectly, it sews well when ironing, there are no many cut details, the seams are mostly straight and uncomplicated (stitched, turned, stitched) and much, much more in favor of the fact that you can start learning to sew with a men's shirt.

In the modern world, ladies are very fond of dressing up in "male" things and designers actively indulge them in this. Yes, and the men themselves believe that by borrowing some items from the men's wardrobe, women only added to their attractiveness and sexuality. One of the brightest heroes of this story is a loose fit women's shirt. Borrowed by women in an unprecedented fashion from men and used for more than a hundred years, this piece of clothing remains relevant no matter what. This model is universal and fashion trend. In pursuit of ideas, women looked into the men's wardrobe and borrowed the most valuable things from there. This affected various items - from accessories to shoes and outerwear. Trousers, raincoats, bow ties, and even leggings ... But once all these things were in the sole possession of men. Depending on the length, the shirt can be worn loose, or tucked in, tied around the waist with a belt, loose sleeves are usually tucked up or fastened with tabs. In such a "male" women's shirt, you will look charming in any situation!

Advice! If you do not like to sweep tucks, pin them with pins, but not across, but along the seam - the fabric will be securely fastened. Remove pins as you advance the foot. And in order to accurately determine the beginning and end of the tuck, stick two pins at the points of the tops of the tuck across (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Stitching darts on the back details

After the tucks are processed, we proceed to the processing of the slats on the shelves. We gave a detailed master class in one of the previous lessons, you will find it at the link

Processing patch pockets on the shelves

On the shelves with marking stitches, transfer the markings of the location of the pockets from the pattern. On the pockets, lay and stitch along the entire length of the opposite fold. Bend the allowances on the upper sides of the pockets and stitch close to the edge. Bend and sweep the allowances on the side and bottom sides of the pockets (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Shirt pockets prepared

Put the pockets on the markings on the shelves and baste. (Fig. 3)

Rice. 3. Pockets are located on the markings on the shelves

Sew the pockets on the shelves close to the edge, re-sew on the upper corners with two short horizontal lines 5 mm long, fasten and cut the threads. (Fig. 4)

Rice. 4. How to sew patch pockets on shelves

Coquette processing

In such models of shirts, the yoke is two-layer, all seams are closed inside, between the layers of the yoke. Place one part of the coquette with the front side on the front side of the shelves, align with allowances and pin or baste. (Fig. 5)

Rice. 5. Processing the coquette of the shirt

Place the second part of the coquette with the front side on the wrong side of the shelves, align with allowances and pin or sweep (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Processing the coquette of the shirt

Stitch both parts of the yoke to the shelves along the allowances with one line (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. How to sew a yoke to the shelves

Cut the allowances to 0.7 cm, straighten the seams and iron. Sew the yoke on the shelves close to the edge (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. How to stitch a shelf yoke

Stitch the yoke to the back in the same way. To do this, lay the outer part of the yoke with the front side on the front side of the back, align according to the allowances and salt with pins or baste. Stitch the outer yoke piece to the back piece. Bend the inner part of the coquette along the allowance, baste exactly along the seam and sew, laying a line along the seam. This stitch is also the finishing stitch on the underside of the back yoke.

Collar processing on the stand

Rice. 9. Duplication of shirt collar details with adhesive pad

Chip off the reinforced and non-reinforced parts of the detachable collar, giving it a shape in which it will be located in the product (Fig. 10). For these purposes, you can use a tailor's blank or form a collar on a flat surface.

Rice. 10. Pin off the collar pieces and shape the collar

Stitch the details of the detachable collar along the allowances of the short and outer long sides (Fig. 11).

Rice. 11. Processing the collar of the shirt

Cut seam allowances to 0.4 mm. To prevent excess thickness from forming on the corners, cut off the allowances additionally on the corner (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. How to cut allowances on the corners of a shirt collar

Turn the flyaway collar right side out and cleanly sweep from the wrong side (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13. How to baste a shirt collar

Sew the collar along the short and long sides at a distance of 5 mm from the edge (Fig. 14). For a straight stitch, use the edge of the machine foot as a guide when sewing. 5mm short of the corner, unfold the piece and topstitch the collar along the long outer side, then turn the piece again and topstitch the second short side of the collar.

Rice. 14. How to sew a fly-away shirt collar

Bend the collar in half lengthwise (this is how it will be located in the product) and chip off the allowances (Fig. 15).

Rice. 15. Bend the collar in half lengthwise

Place the part of the stand reinforced with a gasket with the front side on the outer side of the detachable collar and pin it off with pins or baste (Fig. 16).

Rice. 16. How to baste a stand-up collar on a shirt

Stitch the part of the stand to the detachable collar (Fig. 17). Lay the line exactly on the allowance. After completing the stitching, fasten the ends of the threads and cut. Lay both allowances on the rack and lightly iron.

Rice. 17. How to sew a stand-up collar on a shirt

Stitch or tuck the prepared collar into the product, placing the collar with the front side on the wrong side of the product (Fig. 18). Align the edges of the slats with the edges of the collar (allowances should protrude beyond the edges of the slats).

Rice. 18. How to Sweep a Stand Collar into a Shirt Neck

Stitch the collar into the neck of the shirt, lay the line from the side of the collar. Gently straighten possible wrinkles in the fabric so that they do not accidentally fall under the needle (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. How to sew a collar into the neck of a shirt

Bend the bottom allowance on the non-reinforced part of the rack and iron (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Bend the bottom allowance on the non-reinforced part of the rack

Align the stand with the collar along the seams and pin or baste (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Processing the collar on the stand

Stitch the unreinforced part of the stand to the collar. Bend the corner of the bar so that it does not get into the seam (Fig. 22). To do this, it is convenient to use an ordinary awl or a corner of scissors.

Rice. 22. How to sew an unreinforced stand to the collar

Baste the lower bent allowance exactly into the seam (Fig. 23).

Rice. 23. How to Fold and Baste the Edge of a Stand Collar

To make it easier to fill in the allowance at the ends of the collar, also use an awl (Fig. 24).

Rice. 24. Use an awl to tuck in the corners of the planks

Stitch the upright on the bottom side, as well as on the sides and top sides (Fig. 25). Lay the line close to the edges of the stand collar.

Rice. 25. How to sew and topstitch a rack

How to sew shirt sleeves

On the sleeves, process the cuts with the placket. Detailed master class we gave you in one of the previous lessons

In order to make it convenient to fix the sleeves in a folded form, stitch the straps on the sleeves. To do this, sew 2 straps about 22-24 cm long and 2 cm wide, sew one loop at the ends and sew the straps on the wrong side of the sleeves in the center at the level of the elbow line. Sew a button on the front side of the sleeves at the place where the strap is attached.

Sleeve cuff finishing

Duplicate the outer side of the cuff with an adhesive pad as shown in fig. 26.

Rice. 26. Duplication of the cuff of the sleeve

Lay 2 folds on the sleeve close to the bar, put the cuff with the right side on the front side of the sleeve, align the allowances and pin the cuff along the allowances (Fig. 27).

Rice. 27. Processing the cuff of the sleeve

Attach the cuff to the sleeve. Then fold the cuff down, put both allowances on the cuff, iron and lay a fixing line at a distance of 0.7 cm from the stitching seam (Fig. 28).

Rice. 29. How to sew a cuff on the sides

Bend the allowances along the open edge of the cuff, baste and stitch close to the edge (Fig. 30). Sew along the sides and bottom of the cuff at a distance of 5 mm from the edge.

Rice. 30. Sew the cuff of the sleeve

On the right placket, stand-up collar and cuffs, sew on loops, sew on buttons. The finished shirt is shown in fig. 31.

Rice. 31. Ready-made women's shirt

More original patterns and interesting ideas for creativity you will find on the website of the School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati. Sign up for a free subscription and be the first to receive new lessons!

Building a pattern for the base of a men's shirt with a straight silhouette

Exist different techniques building a pattern for a men's shirt (as, indeed, for any other type of clothing). Each of them has its pros and cons. Let's start with something not very fancy. Today I picked up one of the simple ways to build a men's shirt with a minimum number of measurements. It should be noted that this method takes less into account individual characteristics figures, but it is simple to build - for beginners it is! And then we will consider more complex methods. We will learn to take into account the shape of the shoulders, posture, etc.

To build a pattern for a men's shirt, we need the following measurements:

  • Neck half circumference Ssh 19.5 cm.
  • Semi bust SG 48 cm.
  • Product length Di 78 cm

We build a rectangle. Width of this rectangle, AB is the width of the product, which consists of a half-girth of the chest and an increase in free fit.

The increase for a classic-style men's shirt can vary significantly. We will opt for a rather free option and take an increase of 12 cm.

Thus, in our example, the width of the rectangle will be: 48 + 12 = 60 cm.

Height rectangle AN is equal to the measure of the length of the product. In our example, 78 cm.

Line AH is the middle of the back, and line BH1 is the middle of the front (shelves).

The top line AB is the shoulder line, and the bottom line HH1 is the bottom line.

Draw a chest line

From point A down we set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the semicircle of the chest plus 8 cm. Let's mark this value with point G.

In our example, it will look like this: AG \u003d 48: 3 + 8 \u003d 24 cm.

We draw a horizontal line from this point G, we denote the intersection with the front line by the letter G1, thus we get chest line.

back width

From point G to the right horizontally (chest line), set aside 1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 6 cm (half of the allowance for free fit), set point G2. 48:3+6=22cm.

From this point G2 we draw a vertical line upwards. The point of intersection with the shoulder line will be denoted by the letter P.

Armhole Width

From the point G2 to the right along the chest line, set aside ¼ of the half-girth of the chest plus 4 cm and set the point G3.

Г2Г3=48:4+4=16 cm

The distance G2G3 is the width of the armhole.

Draw a vertical line upwards from point G3, denote the point of intersection with the line of the shoulders by the letter B1.

Side cut line

Divide the width of the armhole in half 16:2 = 8 cm and put the point G4.

From point G4 we draw a vertical line down to the bottom line. The intersection point will be denoted by the letter H2 - this is side cut line.

Back neck (sprout)

From point A to the right along the line of the shoulders, we set aside 1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the neck plus 1 cm and set point A1.

AA1 \u003d 19.5: 3 + 1 \u003d 7.5 cm is the width of the sprout.

Now, upwards from point A1, we set aside the height of the sprout, it is equal to half the width of the sprout minus 0.5 cm and set point A2.

A1A2 \u003d 7.5: 2-0.5 \u003d 3.3 cm is the height of the sprout.

Let's decorate the neck of the back - connect points A and A2 with a smooth concave line.

Back shoulder line

Set aside 2 cm from point P down and set point P1. We draw a segment from point A2 through point P1, extending by 1-1.5 cm, set point P2.

Back armhole

In order to draw a beautiful armhole line, we will build several auxiliary points.

Divide the distance P1G2 in half, put the point P3.

On the bisector drawn from the point G2, set aside 3.5 cm - this is ¼ of the width of the armhole minus 0.5 cm, and put the point G5.

In our example, it looks like this:

G2G5=16:4-0.5=3.5 cm

We draw the armhole line of the back with a smooth concave line, connecting the points P2, P3, G5 and G4.

We built a pattern for the back of a men's shirt.

The next stage is the construction of a shelf pattern (front).

Front neck

The width of the front neck is equal to the width of the neck of the back (sprout). Moreover, in this technique, the height of the front neck is equal to its width. From point B to the left horizontally and down vertically, we set aside 7.5 cm each. We put points B2 and B3, respectively.

BB2=BB3=AA1=7.5 cm

We draw the front neckline from point B2 to point B3. You can do it with a circle.