Undergoing characteristic changes corresponding to each era. During the time of the aristocrats, the collar acquired the status of an independent accessory. We owe the appearance of the so-called English collar to Peter I. Women's practicality led to the appearance of removable collars, which are very popular in modern fashion.

But whatever the collar, original or simple, avant-garde or classic, it remains an integral part of the product, performing both practical and aesthetic functions.

Stand-up collar

Such a collar is sewn into the neck along with a stand, which serves as a “finishing” and form-building part. A stand-up collar is most often found on jackets and coats. In the instructions for Burda patterns, its details are designated as “collar” and “collar stand”.

Lapel collar

The lapel itself is part of an open garment, a lapel on the shelf. Lapels come in different widths and shapes. The upper and lower collars are sewn in separately.

Lapel collars are distinguished by the method of stitching.

Collar with lapels, sewn inright angle

Ribbed lapel collar, set in at right angles

For blouses and dresses made of thin, soft fabrics, a collar with lapels set in at a right angle can be grabbed: the part of the upper collar is turned up and sewn to the seam of the collar set-in. The same goes for the shoulder edges of the collars - they are folded over and sewn to the shoulder seam allowances.

Stand collar

One of the easiest collars to process and construct. Differs in different heights and degrees of fit to the neck. It can consist of two parts or be cut from fabric folded in half. may or may not reach the edges of the shelves' sides.

Shirt collar

It’s hard to imagine or without this collar. always has a stand that extends to the edge of the side. The collar stand can be one-piece with a collar, or it can be cut separately.

Shirt collar with stitched stand

Shirt collar with one-piece stand

Golf collar

This collar is business card turtleneck and sweaters. To ensure that a golf collar made of regular fabric fits well, if necessary, cut it on the bias. A collar made of knitted fabrics is cut in the direction of the loop column.

Tie collar

Its main purpose is decorative. To a greater extent it serves finished product, dresses or blouses. This collar is cut out both along the lobar and on the bias.

A collar is a knot or part of a sewing and knitted product that is used to decorate and process the neckline. Different types Collars simultaneously protect the neck and upper body from adverse conditions and decorate clothing. The name of this part is standardized and is intended for processing the neck of clothing.

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A correctly selected collar affects the perception of the entire created image; its shape and cut are in harmony with the type of face.

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The history of collars

It is believed that the collar as a detail along the edge of the neck appeared in the world history of costume in the 13th century. Later the edging was modified into a stand, going through various stages of change. In the 10s 21 it evolved into a fashionable detachable accessory. The fashion for collars entered Russia during the era of Peter I, who opened the door to our country to European architects, shipbuilders and tailors. Modern names for women's and men's collars developed and were systematized with the advent of the clothing industry and mass production of the 20th century.

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Types of Collar Classifications

There are several types of classification: according to the principle of construction, stitching and appearance. Changing fashion trends do not ignore collar shapes.

According to the principle of construction and design, they are:

• one-piece (cut together with the main piece of clothing);
• sewn into the neck.

The type of design is also influenced by the method of connection to the neck (set-in, one-piece or combined) and the type of fastener. Typically, a collar consists of a stand and a flap, which are divided by a conventional bend line or joint seam. In addition, it is important to understand that a classic textile collar with or without a stand-up collar is sewn from two main parts: the upper collar and the collar (lower part). The stand, in turn, can be one-piece or stitched. The higher the stand, the more carefully the material and design are chosen.

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Collar names

• Collars are divided by shape according to the classical school of sewing design and technology.
• Flat or turn-down (with a low, almost invisible stand).
• Standing (vertical stand along the neck).
• Standing-turn-down (stand with fly-away).
• Jacket type (added with lapels).
• Modified and fantasy.

The height of the stand, the width of the outer edge and the design of the outer edge depend on fashion trends and the designer’s imagination.

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The most common types of collars

Turn-down

Typical for children's and women's clothing. Makes the image cute. The application of this cut is very dependent on fashion influences.

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Stand-up

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Jacket collars

Fantasy collars

Fantasy ones come as modifications of the main types, they often decorate women's dresses and blouses.

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When choosing a collar, be guided by fashion trends, the proportions of the entire product and the purpose of the model. It is worth noting that sharp corners emphasize the severity of the image, while rounded corners emphasize infantility and softness. Much depends on the shape of the face, color and texture of the chosen fabric. Over the past few years, removable models have been popular, representing an actively decorated accessory.

T Such a detail of a suit as a collar seems to us a familiar and self-evident element. The collar performs practical and aesthetic functions. It can be original or modest, extravagant or classic. Collars as such did not exist until the Middle Ages and they first appeared in the form of a narrow strip on men's clothing. However, since that time, collars have experienced a turbulent history of development. Collars have come and gone in fashion. various types: wide, huge, miniature, lace, hard, soft, with protruding corners, on a frame. In the 20th century, collars appeared, which we now consider “normal” and wear with pleasure.

In modern fashion, several basic types of collars can be distinguished, many of which include many collars retro style, which are still in trend.

1. Peter Pen collar

This is a small turn-down collar with rounded ends. This sew-on collar is recommended for products with closed fasteners. It looks original, neat and very gentle. This collar received its slightly strange name in honor of the collar on the costume of Broadway actress Maude Adams, who played the role of Peter Pan in the production. This collar was designed in 1905 by John_White_Alexander and his wife for the first American stage production of J.M. Barrie (J.M. Barrie) Peter and Wendy.

It should be noted that the appearance of such a collar was not a discovery; as a model, it had already existed since the end of the 19th century. But after the production of the play about Peter Pan in New York, this type of collar became incredibly popular. So much so that the name of the famous character still remains behind him. Although there are other names that indicate earlier sources of its appearance. So, for example, in France, it was known as the Claudine collar, as it was described in the book “Claudine at School”, and the main character of the book wore a small round collar. After 1907, the popularity of the Peter Pan collar declined sharply. In the twenties, it could only be found mainly on children's clothing, for example, cute little girls' dresses. However, in the 30s it became almost a mandatory attribute on wedding dress. In the 50s, 60s and even 70s, the retro collar experienced another peak in its popularity.

After a little oblivion, now this collar is more relevant than ever. Moreover, in modern fashion this model is popular not only as a basic type of collar in women's clothing, but also as an original independent accessory that can be combined with an open top or dress or even a T-shirt. Now such a collar can be decorated in an original and unexpected way or sewn from unusual materials. We can safely say that over the past few years, the retro Peter Pan collar has again been at the peak of its popularity. This collar will make your look stylish, “innocent” and moderately vintage.

2. Sailor collar

This is a wide turn-down removable collar, rectangular in shape at the back, and forming a deep collar at the front. V-neck. The sailors' traditional collar was of blue color with three white stripes along the edge. This sailor collar is called a guy. Now a collar of such a specific shape can be different color combinations- it all depends on the chosen style and type of clothing. Like a view men's collar it appeared in the navy back in 1874.

And the reason for its appearance was the desire of sailors to keep their flannel shirts clean. The sailors' wigs had oiled pigtails made of horsehair, which left stains on their shirts and spoiled appearance clothes. The sailors came up with the idea of ​​putting flaps under the pigtails to protect the shirt. Subsequently, they were transformed into wide turn-down collars. In addition, they protected the sailors from wind and cold splashes. In 1881, white stripes appeared on the collar. Initially, the stripes indicated which division of the fleet the sailor belonged to. With the increase in the number of divisions, it was decided to leave only three stripes.

After some time, such maritime romance migrated to women's fashion, forming the so-called sea ​​style. Of course, the designers experimented with authentic shapes and colors, but the main motif was and remains easily recognizable. Such retro sailor collars were especially popular in the 60s, and subsequently in fashion in the 80s. A modern sailor collar does not necessarily have to be removable; it may well be a kind of imitation. In current fashion, such a collar will be an interesting and original detail for dresses, jackets and loose blouses.

3. Turn-down collar without a stand (convertible collar)

This type refers to sewn or set-in adjacent collars. Most often combined with blouses or dresses with open sides. It is called a fold-over because its edges can be folded back to rest on the shoulders and chest. This type of collar should not be confused with the classic shirt collar, which can also be unbuttoned, but the shirt collar has a stand-up collar.

The turn-down collar can be either buttoned or unbuttoned if desired. It should be noted that in an authentic turn-down collar without a stand-up collar, the top button was most often missing. This collar can rightfully be called one of the most popular retro collars. It was incredibly popular in fashion in the 40s and 50s. And in modern fashion, it is often used to create vintage models or bright blouses in a free style.

4. Band collar

This is one of the basic and most simple types collars. It usually fits snugly around the neck and appears as a standing strip or ribbon sewn to the neckline without laying down on the garment. Stand collars can vary in height, that is, they can be either narrow or wide. Exist different variants stand-up collars, for example, with and without a clasp. Such a collar always looks original and can really give clothes a specific look. It can often be seen on uniforms. It gives clothes a more strict and laconic look. It can be either with sharp or rounded ends.

Stand collars can be called one of the first types of collars in clothing. They appeared approximately in the 14th-15th centuries as an element of men's raincoats and jackets. Gradually they came into women's fashion. Varieties of the stand-up collar are the cadet collar, the mandarin collar, the pastor's collar, and the Italian collar. This collar looks great on women's blouses, jackets and coats.

5. Turn-down collar with a stand with buttons at the ends (button-down collar)

Home distinctive feature This collar is that the corners of the collar are fastened to the fabric of the product with buttons, less often with snaps. At its core, it is a classic shirt turn-down collar. However, the buttons give it an interesting and unusual look. This type of collar was developed in America in 1896 by the Brooks Brothers and was originally used only on polo shirts. And only in the 50s of the 20th century did they move from sports fashion to ordinary everyday wardrobe.

It is worth noting that this type of collar is still an element of rather a sporty or casual style. It is still considered not entirely acceptable for men to wear a shirt with such a collar under a classic suit. However, this retro collar looks great on women's shirts in men's style. Perfectly matches women's shirts in the office or business style. Moreover, for women, designers offer more extravagant models, for example, with an oversized collar, with deliberately elongated corners, or use buttons as additional decorative elements.

6. Mandarin collar

This is a short stand-up collar, without the usual shirt fastener. The edges of the collar do not meet, leaving visible narrow strip neck. The ends of the collar can be rectangular, smoothed, rounded, rigid in shape, but always with a small distance between the edges under the chin. The height of such a collar is usually 4.5 - 5 centimeters. It may have a clasp, which is usually a loop that goes over a button on the leg. The name was assigned to this collar due to the fact that it was believed that such collars were characteristic of the traditional costume of officials of Imperial China - mandarins, as the Portuguese called them. Subsequently, this name penetrated into other languages.

It is noteworthy that such a collar is also called the Nehru collar, since in the mid-20th century in India, famous Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru often wore clothes with such a collar. And therefore, such a collar is now often found in modern Indian men's clothing. However, for most of us, such a collar is associated with oriental style, especially when combined with silk blouses or Chinese-style jackets.

7. Jabot

This collar is a kind of frill made of fabric or lace, which starts from the collar and reaches the middle of the chest. Such voluminous collars can be sewn on or removable. It is noteworthy that the name of this collar is translated from French means "bird's crop." Traditionally, a brooch was pinned to the middle of the frill, but in modern fashion this is completely unnecessary. However, if you want to create an original retro look, then the combination of a large vintage brooch and a frill will help you do it.

Like many elements of women's wardrobe, the frill collar first appeared as an attribute men's suit. This happened in the 18th century, when frill began to decorate men's shirt. Lace or muslin frills were voluminous and could have large or small pleats. It is interesting that not only representatives of the nobility liked to wear frills, but also, for example, pirates. Catherine II in the 18th century tried to introduce jabots into women's fashion, but things did not go beyond formal uniform dresses. By the second half of the 19th century, men's fashion almost completely abandoned the frill, due to its impracticality and excessive mannerism. However, in women's fashion, the history of jabot was just beginning.

It is believed that such a retro collar was brought back into modern fashion by Karl Lagerfeld, offering a series interesting models with frill. Collars with frills can decorate women's blouses and dresses, and now they can be made not only from lace, but also from any other material. In any case, the frill always looks impressive and stylish.

8. Ascot collar

It is a type of retro stand-up collar, the edges of which turn into wide ribbons that can be tied under the chin in any way. For example, ribbons can be tied in a bow at the very base of the neck, or they can hang down tied in a loose knot. Sometimes it is tied in the form of a tie. In some models, the central part of such a collar is shifted to the side. In this case, the ribbons are tied in a bow at the side. The tapes themselves can be either very narrow or quite wide. The length of these tapes may also vary. It all depends on the style of a particular women’s blouse.

It is noteworthy that in men's fashion"Ascot" is a way of tying neckerchief under a shirt and is a specific type of men's tie. It should be noted that women's ascots appeared in the 19th century. The mistress of Louis XIV, Louise de La Vallerie, loved to sport such collars and ties. However, at that time they did not become fashionable everywhere and were rather a symbol of bright originality.

In the 20th century, such retro collars were especially popular in the 70s. Such vintage collars can be found in modern fashion. They add a certain amount of romance, femininity and poetry to blouses. By the way, especially original models This type of collar is tied not at the front, but at the back.

9. Shawl collar

This is a turn-down, fitted collar with a rounded shape on the back, which gradually tapers towards the first button of the product, forming a V-shaped neckline on the chest. It can be either one-piece or sewn on. There are different shapes of the turn-down part, but in most cases a rounded, streamlined shape is used. This collar always looks feminine and neat, beautifully emphasizing the décolleté area. Moreover, the cutout can be either minimal, almost closed, or deep.

The history of this collar takes us back to the early 20th century, to the fashion of the Victorian era. It was the collar that was used in Victorian tuxedo jackets. It is noteworthy that such a collar was also a distinctive feature of the jackets of American rugby players. Gradually it began to be used not only for jackets, but also for blouses, knitwear knitted blouses and dresses in women's fashion. Such shawl collars became especially popular in women's fashion in the 50s. For example, it was incredibly fashionable to combine a blouse with a shawl collar with a full flared skirt.

10. Golf collar (turtleneck collar, roll-neck collar)

This is a high collar that is turned down and fits tightly to the neck. At its core, it is a wide, double stand-up collar. It almost completely covers the neck. Very common in knitwear, but can be used in women's blouses, tops and dresses. In America, such a collar was called a “turtle neck” because of its resemblance to the neck of a turtle, which it can extend or curl and hide in its shell.

The history of this collar is full of mysteries. Some believe that its prototype originated in Europe as early as the 15th century. And for many years, clothes with such a collar were popular among philosophers, scientists, artists and intellectuals. However, there is another story that says that in the 20s Noël Coward introduced and how fashionable clothes middle class, and that this trend immediately penetrated into women's fashion thanks to the feminist movement. It is also believed that such a collar arose as a contrast to the classic duo of a shirt and tie, demonstrating a rejection of formal wear.

11. Mock turtleneck

This is a short (approximately to the middle of the neck), soft, tight-fitting one-piece stand-up collar. It resembles a golf collar, but unlike it, it does not turn away. The time of its origin dates back to the 60s of the 20th century. It is not very popular, although it is also found in modern fashion.

The collar is a very important and expressive detail in the design of clothing. It not only gives the product a finished look, but also visually affects the contours of the face and chin. neck shape and length. The collar must comply with fashion requirements. shape and proportions of clothing.

Collars are very varied in shape. They consist, as a rule, of two parts: the visible one - the take-off and the invisible one - the rack, between which there is an inflection line. According to the method of connection with the neckline and the principle of constructing the drawing, collars are divided into two types: those sewn into the neckline and cut together with the main part, most often with the front (one-piece). In shape, they can be standing (stand height 3.5-4.5 cm), stand-up (stand height 2.5-3.5 cm), semi-standing (stand height about 2 cm), flat-lying (stand height about 0.5 cm ). Collars also differ in width, which can vary from 4 to 24 cm.

When constructing a drawing, you need to keep in mind that the straighter the stitching line, the higher the collar stand will be. You can choose your own collar shape for each face type. All fluctuations in fashion are usually accompanied by changes in the shapes and types of collars, which are characterized by great variety. The main factors influencing collar design are:

Method of connecting the collar to the neck of the product (set-in, one-piece, combined);

Neck line shape; degree of fit to the neck (tight-fitting, flat-lying, lagging behind the neck);

Type of fastener for the product (closed, open).

When constructing patterns for any collars, the main importance is the shape of the stitching line into the neck and the height of the stand. The shape of the collar's flap can be very diverse and depends on the model and the imagination of the author.

The construction of the stand, its dimensions, and the configuration of the neck line determine the shape of the collar and the degree of its fit. With a maximum stand height and a straight or convex stitching line into the neckline, the collar fits tightly around the neck. By reducing the height of the stand and concave stitching line, the collar lies more flatly. In the absence of a stand, the stitching line coincides with the neckline in shape and the collar becomes flat. Collars, as a rule, consist of two parts: an upper collar and a lower collar (collar).

According to the method of construction, collars can be divided into three groups:

Set-in for products with a fastener to the top (or to a closed neck); one-piece and set-in for products with an open fastener; set-in and one-piece, flat-lying and fancy.

SET-IN COLLARS TO CLOSED NECK.

Patterns for set-in collars to the neckline with a blind fastener are constructed separately from the pattern for the bodice and neckline of the product. Depending on the configuration of the stitching line, collars can be: stand-up; stand-up; semi-turndown; apache; flat-lying

Stand-up collars have many varieties and are characterized by the presence of a stand of varying heights in the area where it is sewn into the neck of the back and tapering off towards its ends. In the area corresponding to the neck of the back and the upper third of the neck of the front, it is straight or slightly concave, and in the section of stitching into the rest of the neck it has a convex shape. The amount of curvature (in height along the line of the middle of the collar) ranges from 1.5 to 4.5 cm. The shape and size of the detachable part of the collar and its ends are determined by the model.

1. Stand-up collar to the neck with a fastener to the top.

A,

Mid line - vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. From point A On the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a dot A 1

A A, = POsh + 0.5 = 18 + 0.5 = =18.5 cm

(Collar length can be measured along the neck line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.) From the point A lay 2 - 4 cm along the middle line and put a dot A:

Aa= 2— 4 cm

Points A And A 1 A 1 and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.2 cm is laid. Points A 1 , 0.2, II. 0.5 cm and A connected by a smooth curve.

Departure cut. From point A 8 - 10 cm are laid up along the middle line - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A, on the segment a A 1 ; put points accordingly IN And IN 1 .

aB = A 1 IN 1 = 8-10 cm

Points IN And IN 1 connect with an auxiliary straight line, which is continued to the right by 3-6 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner).

From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore the perpendicular upward, on which 1 - 1.5 cm are laid. A smooth curve extending from the point IN at right angles to the line segment AB, connect the dots IN, 1-1.5 cm and 3-6 cm. Points A 1 and 3-6 cm are connected under the ruler.

2. Half-stand collar to the neck with a fastener to the top.

Construct a right angle with a vertex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and upward.

Midline – vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. From point A on the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the neck, – the length of the collar stitching line, and put a dot A 1 :

AA 1 , = POsh = 18 cm

(Collar length can be measured from the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.)

From point A lay 5-7 cm along the middle line and put a dot A:

Aa= 5-7 cm

Points A And A 1 connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. The division points represent / and //. From the point /, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.7 cm is laid on it. From the middle of the segment between the points A 1, and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.4 cm is laid. Points A, 0.7 cm, //, 0.4 cm and A 1 connected by a smooth curve.

Departure cut. From point A 8-10 cm is laid up along the middle line - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A 1 to a straight line aA 1 . Place points accordingly IN And IN 1 .

aB= A 1 IN 1 = 8-10 cm

Points IN And IN 1 is connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is continued to the right by 2-4 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner). From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore the perpendicular upward, on which 2-2.5 cm are laid. A smooth curve emerging from the point IN at right angles to the line segment AB, connect the dots IN, 2-2.5 cm and 2-4 cm. Points 2-4 cm and A 1 connect under the ruler.

3. Collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.

Construct a right angle with a vertex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and upward.

Midline- vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. From point A On the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the line for sewing in the collar and put a dot A 1:

AA 1 = POsh + 0.5 =18 + 0.5 =18.5 cm

From point A 1 to the right horizontally set aside 2-2.5 cm - an allowance for half skidding and put a dot A 2:

AA 2 =2-2.5 cm

From point A lay 2-4 cm along the middle line and put a dot A:

Ahh= 2-4 cm

Points A And A 1 connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. The division points represent / and //. From the point /, restore a perpendicular upward and put 0.5 cm on it. From the middle of the segment between the points A 1 and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.2 cm is laid. The edge of the half-skid is raised from the point A 2 by 0.3-0.5 cm. Points 0.3-0.5 cm, A 1 , 0.2 cm, //, 0.5 cm and A connected by a smooth curve.

Rack. From points A 1 , And A 2 put 2.5-3.5 cm up vertically - the height of the stand and place points accordingly a 1 And a 2:

A 1 A 1 =A 2 a 2=2.5-3.5 cm

The protrusion of the rack can be designed with a rounded curve connecting the points A 1 and 0.3-0.5 cm.

Departure cut. From point A up along the middle line they put 7-9 cm - the width of the collar at the back and put a dot IN:

aB=7-9 cm

From point IN A 1 , denoted by a letter IN 1 . Line BB 1 continue to the right 1-4 cm and put a dot AT 2 .

IN 1 IN 2 = 1-4 cm

Full stop AT 2 A 1 ; the line continues upward and on it from the point A 1 set aside 7-15 cm - the length of the corner; put an end to it V:

A 1 in= 7-15 cm

Line segment BB 1 divided into 3 parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to the point V.

4. Collar with a detachable stand.

Construct a right angle with a vertex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and upward.

Midline- vertical side of the corner.

The line for stitching the stand into the neck. From point A to the right lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a dot A 1 |:

AA 1 = POsh + 0.5= 18 + 0.5 =18.5 cm

From point A 1 restore the perpendicular upward, put 2-4 cm on it and put a point A 2 :

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm

Full stop A connect under a ruler with a point A 2 , the line is continued to the right 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half skidding) and a dot is placed A 3 ;

A 2 A 3 = 2-2.5 cm

Line AA 2 divided in half. From the point of division, a perpendicular is restored downwards, on which 1 cm is laid. The edge of the half-skid is raised from the point A 3 by 0.5 cm. Points 0.5 cm, A 2.1 cm and A connected by a smooth curve.

Top section of the stand. From point A lay down along the middle line 3-4 cm - the height of the stand and put a dot A:

Aa= 3-4 cm

From points A 2 And A 3, restore upward perpendiculars to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid, and dots are placed accordingly A 1 and A 2 .

A 2 a 1 = A 3 A 2 = 2.5-3 cm

Points A And A 1, connected by an auxiliary straight line. From its middle, a perpendicular is restored downwards, on which 1 cm is laid. Points A, 1 cm and A 1 connected by a smooth curve. The protrusion of the rack can be designed with a rounded line connecting the points A and 0.5 cm.

Line for sewing the collar into the stand-up collar designed with the same bend as the top section of the rack. It is built as follows. From point A 1, draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry. Its intersection with the midline is indicated by the letter V. From point V upward along the midline a segment equal to aw, and put an end to it V 1 :

bb 1 = aw

Full stop V 1 connect an auxiliary line to a point A 1 . Line segment A 1 V 1 divide in half and from the division point a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 1 cm is laid off. Points in 1 , 1 cm and A 1 connected by a smooth curve.

Departure cut. From point V 1 up along the middle line they put 4-5 cm - the width of the departure and put a dot at 2:

IN 1 V 2 = 4-5 cm

From point V 1 draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from the point A 1 is denoted by the letter V 3. Line V 2 V 3 continue to the right 1-5 cm and put a dot V 4:

V 3 V 4 = 1-5 cm

Full stop V 4 connect under the ruler with a point A 1 The line continues upward and on it from the point A 1, set aside 9-14 cm - angle length; put an end to it V 5:

A 1 A 5 = 9-14 cm

Line segment V 2 V 3 divided into 3 parts and the right dividing point with a smooth curve is connected to the point V 5 .

5. Detachable stand-up collar.

Construct a right angle with a vertex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and upward.

Line, middle - vertical side of the corner.

Top cut and stitching line. From point A On the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a dot A 1 ,:

A A 1 = POsh + 0.5 = 18 + 0.5 =18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neck line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.

From point A along the middle line, set aside 3-4 cm - the width of the collar and put a dot IN:

AB= 3-4 cm

From point IN draw an auxiliary horizontal line to the right, and from the point A 1 up vertical. Their intersection is denoted by the letter IN 1 .

The front edge of the stand can be raised by 1 cm. To do this, from the points A 1 And IN 1 vertically put aside 1 cm. Segments AA 1 and BB 1 divided into 3 parts and the right division points are connected in pairs by smooth curves with 1 cm points. The length of the upper cut at the middle of the front is reduced by 0.5 cm.

The stand collar has many variations. The set-in stand-up collar in the form of a rectangular strip is slightly behind the neck. To build it, you need the length of the neck line and the height of the stand. The top cut line is parallel to the stitching line.

If you want to give the collar a funnel shape, the stitching line is bent in the same way in the opposite direction.

The cowl collar pattern also has rectangular shape, but its height is twice the height of the stand. A collar pattern of this type is usually made with a slightly widened neckline. It is cut out at an angle of 45° to the warp threads and double width, i.e. the upper and lower collar are cut from one single piece of fabric, placing the takeoff line in the fold of the material.

Patterns for collars that turn into a bow or scarf are constructed similarly to a cowl collar and a rectangular stand-up collar, but the height and length of the collar are chosen depending on the model and type of fabric.

Fantasy models of stand-up collars.