Hi all!

Today I’ll show you how I sewed a T-shirt like this with straps, with beautiful elastic bands:

As for underwear for my daughter, I like it with narrow straps. In kindergarten they are required to wear T-shirts, but in our group it is hot, and if you wear, for example, a sundress, then an ordinary T-shirt will stick out from under it. That’s why I sew this way for my daughter.

How to make a pattern? Option one is to trace the finished T-shirt, but in our house there are no purchased T-shirts))))) but only deposits of knitwear, so we are going the other way. We take a proven T-shirt pattern as a basis and cut off “everything unnecessary” from it. The result is a pattern like this: I pinned it on a T-shirt to make it easier to see. The sizes are written there (OG approximately 56, 4 years), and if they suit you, you can simply redraw them from the monitor, if not, then here are a couple of tips.

I like T-shirts that are almost tight, so I tapered the T-shirt pattern at the sides. We combine the armpits of the T-shirt with the armpits of the T-shirt (this is the chest line), and draw smooth lines on top to indicate how open we want our T-shirt to be. Another guideline is that the corners from which the straps go up indicate approximately the beginning of the shoulder seam. We draw a draft, cut it out, apply it to the child, adjust if necessary and go cut it out.J

1. We cut the front and back, glue the transfers, the width of my whole T-shirt did not fit, because... underwear is usually made from leftovers, so I made inserts on the sides from cash corse (and this way the T-shirt fits better on our convex figure), the T-shirt itself is made from cotton knitwear.

2. We overlock the top edges of the front and back using an overlocker. Not reaching the corner 2-3 mm, raise the foot, carefully remove the part from the pin (a metal pin around which an overlock stitch is formed), turn the part, lower the foot and continue overcasting.

3. We measure out the elastic bands for the upper cuts. When stitching, the elastic stretches a little, so we take it a little shorter than the cut, or the same amount if there is an allowance on the sides.

4. We pin pieces of elastic, sew on the machine with a zigzag or triple zigzag if the elastic is wide.

5. Now we need to figure out the length of the straps. You can use the same base T-shirt as a guide - take the distance from the corners of the upper sections to the top, but I prefer to try it on, it’s more accurate, and then it will take a long time to redo it. We baste part of the elastic along the front from the armhole towards the top, and part along the back (you can pin it on the back if the child calmly allows experiments with fitting).

6. We sew the straps along the front and back. We make fastenings in the corners - back and forth so that the elastic does not unravel. This results in a semi-finished product:

7. Sew the side seams. To prevent the elastic from moving, I used to grab the top side seam I use hand stitches, but it takes a long time, now I do this: I put the back and the front face to face, I cut off all the excess (the elastic allowance and protruding threads), and carefully tuck it under the overlock foot, bringing it close to the lowered needles. I make a couple of stitches and slowly pull the chain of threads back. The overlock sews our elastic without any thickening or displacement.

You can put a flag in the side seam, like this:

8. Hem the bottom with a double knitting needle. We hide the ends of the threads under the seam. I use a thick eye needle that holds all 6 threads. Sometimes it’s impossible to pull through such a thickness, so I pull out the needle with pliers that my husband gave meJ.

9. My least favorite step, but necessary, is the tack at the top of the side seam. It is needed so that the seam allowance does not stick out and imprint on the skin, and to prevent the elastic band from unraveling (store-bought T-shirts and panties are guilty of this). We unravel the chain of overlock threads - we simply pull out the needle threads - we stick the longest thread into the needle (we hide the rest under the seam allowance) and make a few hand stitches.

10. The final WTO - and the T-shirt is ready.

You can sew a couple more panties with it, but more on that next time ;-)

Thanks for watching! I will be glad to comments.

I’ll add a few more words to the post about the straps.Instead of elastic bands, you can make narrow straps from jersey. For the straps, you can use the same cotton waistcoat as the T-shirt itself, or you can take a cash-corse. Ribana, in my opinion, would be a bit thick for underwear, but just right for a summer T-shirt. It turns out that we must first baste the binding onto the front half, then check its final length during fitting. And you also need to take into account that during processing the strap will stretch, by 1-2 cm exactly, and then it depends on the chosen fabric. And be sure to use a knitted stitch to process the straps: double needle, triple zigzag or simple zagzag.

It's easy if you know a few tricks
1. The top of the top has a silicone tape on the inside.

2. The jersey in the chest area is stretched quite tightly

3. The back pattern is shorter than the shelf pattern.

Now more details on each of the points + pattern for size 46-48.

Here: construction of a top for size OG = 96-98, From = 78, OB = 98-100 cm

actwin,0,0,1360,742;Untitled - Rhinoceros (Corporate) - Rhino4 05/09/2015, 20:47:41

• Selection of knitwear.
  It should not be too stretchy and hold its shape well. For example, “butter” knitwear is not the best option for the top. I had a cotton jersey good quality, quite dense, medium stretch.
• Decate the fabric before cutting! Wash as usual so that there are no surprises afterwards - knitwear is tricky.
• Calculate the “negative gain” in the chest area.
  To do this, you need to stretch a piece of canvas across and determine a comfortable degree of tension to your measurement OG 1. Measure above the chest - the measuring tape passes under the armpits. We need to understand how much to “tighten” the top border of the top.
  The fact is that our top will be light, without supporting bones. He has to hold on only due to the tension on his chest.
  In the waist and hip area, it is enough to reduce your measurements by 2-3 cm
• We cut out the back and shelf.
  We will have two areas where the shelf will fit.
  Firstly, in the chest area 2-3 cm. This is how we distribute side dart for chest volume.
  secondly, in the waist area 1-2 cm. This way we shorten the back to get rid of folds in the lumbar deflection area. Fitting knitted fabric is simple and pleasant. We take advantage of the tensile properties: first you need to chop off the sections, evenly distributing the fit. Then stitch the side sections using any knitted stitch (I used a zigzag stitch with a small amplitude of 1.3 mm and a pitch of 2 mm). Stretch the fabric with your hands when sewing. All processes are in the photo. I’ll make a reservation right away: I’m not a fan of the cover-stitching technique. I don’t plan to buy an expensive flat-stitch machine for my small workshop. And in general, I prefer methods of processing knitwear that are different from industrial ones. Overlock, simple and stepped zigzag, hidden hand stitches - that's enough. this is NOT wrong! It’s soulful and couture). If you prefer special equipment, that’s welcome. All markers have different tastes and colors.
  I love knitwear, I sew it a lot and often. I advise beginners not to be afraid of technology). Knitwear certainly has sewing features. But this is such rewarding material that once you have mastered the simple rules, you will love it dearly, just like me). By the way, I plan to make a series of articles on knitwear.
• Processing side cuts using an overlocker. Of course, you can only get by with a 4-thread overlock stitch, but stretching the fabric under the overlock knife while simultaneously monitoring the direction of the stitching is quite problematic. “Somehow sloppy” (c).
• We process the lower and upper cuts with an overlock stitch.
• We just fold the bottom. As you like, use any knitted stitch or use your hands. In the photo: than more experience As I purchase, I use running stitches more often. Time for handmade I don’t regret it – it pays off in the end result.
• First, we stitch the silicone tape to the upper cut using an elastic stitch, slightly pulling the tape. Then we bend the cut. All processes are in the photo.
• The top is ready.

Model complexity level - simple

Technical drawing of the model:

Description of appearance

A slip and/or top made of silk material with a fitted silhouette. The front part of the combination (top) with a cut-off bodice on which darts are processed. There is a lace insert between the front and the bodice. The upper section of the bodice is decorated with lace trim. Back with middle seam. The straps of the combination (top) are made of edging braid. The processing technology of the straps allows you to adjust their length.

When ordering a pattern, you receive a pdf file containing 1 sheet of patterns, which can be printed on several A4 sheets, after gluing which you will receive one large sheet with the contours of the patterns:

* To print the pattern in actual size, when printing in Adobe Reader, select “Poster” in the “Setting the size and processing pages” section. Then the image will be automatically divided into required amount fragments of A4 format. If your version of AdobeReader does not have the "Poster" function, you need to download the latest version of this program from the link https://get.adobe.com/ru/reader/ (this is a licensed free program). If you still have questions, visit our FAQ section!

The following designations are used on the pattern:

Details (combination details with red numbers, top - blue. The cutting line of the top is indicated on the pattern with a dotted line and signed):

1. Back - 2 children.

2. Bodice - 2 children.

3. Before - 1 child. (with fold)

4. Lace trim on the bodice - 2 pieces.

5. Lace insert - 2 pieces.

Also on the back part there is an inscription: “Diameter of tape for edging and straps = xxx cm (including two straps of xxx cm each)”

When cutting, add seam allowances: along the side sections of the front, back and bodice - 0.8 cm; along the lower edge of the front and back – 1.0 cm; along the top cut of the front, top and bottom cut of the bodice - 0.5 cm. Seam allowances for parts made of lace: along the side, bottom and top cut of the lace insert - 0.8 cm; The seam allowance along the middle cut of the lace insert and lace trim depends on the processing technology of this knot and the technology used sewing machine– 0.3 cm if you connect these parts using a zigzag stitch machine, or 0.8 cm if this is not possible.

ATTENTION! Do not give a seam allowance along the armhole cut or the upper back cut, because... these sections will be edged during processing.

Recommendations on materials: To make the product you will need silk material (preferably viscose or Lyocell), preferably with elastane threads inserted or thin knitted fabric. For a combination you will need 70 cm of material with a width of at least 120 cm, for a top - 50 cm with a width of at least 100 cm.

LAYOUT of parts

COMBINATION

In addition, to make a combination and (or) top you will need lace fabric or lace braid 5 cm wide, edging braid or bias tape (length finished form taking into account the allowances indicated on the back parts), as well as strap length adjusters - 2 pieces.

Sewing sequence COMBINATIONS (TOPS):

1. Baste and then stitch the darts on the bodice. Iron the seam allowance towards the center.
2. Baste and then stitch the back pieces along the middle seam. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances to the side.
3. Sew the details of the lace insert along the middle seam using a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine (Fig. 1). If there is no sewing machine that performs a zigzag stitch, then overcast the middle sections of the lace insert, stitch, and then iron the seam allowances (Fig. 2).

1. Also connect the details of the lace trim of the bodice along the middle seam.
2. Baste and then stitch the lace trim of the bodice to the bodice along the top edge. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances.
3. Baste and then stitch the lace insert to the bodice. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances.
4. Baste and then stitch the lace panel to the front. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances down.
5. Baste and then stitch the front and back along the side edges. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances toward the back.
6. Finish the bottom edge of the combination with a hem seam with a closed edge (Fig. 1) or a hem seam with an open overcast edge (Fig. 2).

1. Prepare edging braid to form loops intended for attaching rings.

1. Edge the top section of the back (from the middle seam) and sections of the armholes of the bodice with edging braid or bias tape while simultaneously processing (sewing in) the straps.
2. Overcast the ends of the edging tape to attach the rings. Thread the rings, bend the free ends of the edging tape in half inward and secure with two short parallel lines at the base. Thus, the length of the loops into which the rings are threaded should be approximately 2 cm. Sew the loops with the rings on the back.
3. Overcast the ends of the straps, thread them through the buckles to adjust the length, bend the end of each strap inward, pull it through the buckle again from the inside and fasten it to the folded side of the straps.

Have you all paid attention to how such small item wardrobe - top, can complement the image you have imagined, decorate your appearance and create unique style! Tops can be different - from a simple T-shirt to fashionable fantasy designs. Even a small tight-fitting T-shirt can be sewn from lace fabric and complemented with winning accessories, not to mention all the abundance of fabrics, textures, decorating techniques, various ribbons, brooches, rhinestones, types of decorative straps and trims - all your imagination! In order to begin the modeling lesson, all we have to do is print out your basic pattern, which fully matches your individual size characteristics and fits your figure perfectly. You may ask, where can I get the basic pattern? And I will say that everything is very simple! You just need to follow the link, where the interactive service will generate your basic design based on your individual dimensional characteristics:

First step. First, let's print out your basic pattern. I encourage you to print out the basic dress pattern. Now we will make changes to it that will be necessary to model any of the tops presented in this article. First we will move the chest and shoulder darts to the armhole. To do this, we need to step back from the previous armhole of the front along the shoulder section to the right, a distance equal to the size of the chest dart, and complete the shoulder section as shown in Figure 1. We will do the same with the shoulder dart. We will simply forget about the waist darts on the back and on the front, as if they had never existed before. We will also outline the bottom line of the topic. You can choose this line arbitrarily, depending on your desire, it can be elongated (below the hip line, or it can also be shortened. In our case, the bottom line of the top is 4 cm below the point where the waist darts end.

Second step. Our basic pattern The top is almost ready - all that remains is to draw the line of the bottom cut. We step back 1 cm from the middle of the shelf and smoothly round it to the side. We'll do the same with the back. In Figure 2 the red line shows how to make this smooth rounding

Third step. And now we will look at several models of tops that you can very easily sew from the top pattern we created in the last two steps. Let's look at the simplest version of the topic:

This is a regular T-shirt with a wide strap. It’s just that in these three options the neck is designed differently. . In Figure 3, the blue dotted line shows the neck of the top, which is shown in the middle. There is no need to modify the armhole line for this. And the red line shows the neckline for the tops shown on the left and right. Plus, for them you need to slightly change the armhole line - it is shown with a green line.

Fourth step. The photos below show several options for batwing tops. They look very stylish, and are incredibly easy and simple to sew. All of them are made based on our drawing No. 2.

Let's first look at the shelf. In Figure 4 you can see that we just need to extend the shoulder cut line to the required length. Batwing sleeves can be either long or short. Our figure shows the middle option.

We do the back in the same way - it is shown in Figure 5.

Fifth step. Also, a T-shirt with thin straps can become a cute and funny top that, when original design will highlight your individuality and style. Let's look at a few options:

The red line in Figure 6 shows how to design the neckline and armhole line for the top shown on the left. The blue line shows the T-shirt shown in the middle. And the green line is the top on the right. Don't forget that for these T-shirts you need to calculate the length of the straps!

Sixth step. An American T-shirt, when made from beautiful gilded jersey, or with a lace insert, or simply decorated with an original print, can also become a favorite wardrobe item.

Moreover, its design is ridiculously simple:

Seventh step. The top with short one-piece sleeves looks very cute!

And besides, it is very easy to sew! Modeling should be done according to the “bat” cut principle. How, see Figure 8:

Final touches. Of course, in this tutorial we looked at the simplest top designs. There are complex topics, such as in the photo below:

They can also be made from our basic design, but not in one step, but in several. We will do this in the next lessons, but for now, don’t forget that fashion is the weapon of all girls, and being beautiful and stylish is within the power of each of us!

Also, do not forget that for all the designs presented in this lesson, you need to make seam allowances. On all parts the seam allowances will be 1 cm, and at the bottom of the product - 2.5 cm.

Show your creativity and you will look irresistible! I wish you success!

Not so long ago, the lingerie style of clothing quickly burst into women's fashion. This is not to say that this is something completely new and unprecedented. And in the mid-19th century, dress models made from lightweight cotton fabric with lace that flowed over the body in a loose fit.

For the first time, our contemporaries, world-famous fashion designers Jean-Paul Gaultier and Versace, used a similar style for dresses in their collections. Only ladies from high society wore such exquisite things to social events.

Nowadays, such light fabrics are loved by all female representatives, and a dress or top in lingerie style with lace can be seen in the wardrobe of any girl with a slender figure. That's very beautiful.

In the article we will look at color scheme, used in such models, we will get acquainted with the features of the cut, what they can be combined with and give advice on how to sew a dress in a lingerie style or a top.

Style features

First, let’s take a closer look at how the linen style differs from other models. Firstly, the color scheme is filled only with delicate pastel tones - soft pink, champagne, coffee with milk, white, light shades of green and blue. Although the latest fashion trends tend to favor bright colors, and more and more often you can see a top in a linen style in bright emerald, turquoise, even black.

The material chosen is light, flowing over the body, hugging all curves female figure. This is silk, chiffon or satin, thin cotton is allowed. Decoration occurs with the help of additional elements made of guipure and delicate lace. Although velvet in deep colors such as navy blue and purple is often used for evening dresses.

Typical styles

You can easily recognize a dress and top in lingerie style by appearance, reminiscent of underwear, combinations. Typically an open style with thin straps is used. Such things are suitable for girls with a boyish figure, narrow hips and a slender body. Wearing such things that reveal most of a woman’s body needs to be done thoughtfully and wisely. If the breasts are large and thin straps cannot withstand the weight, then it is permissible to use silk corsets or separately tailored cups in lingerie style.

Also typical for lingerie-style top models with lace is the presence of an open back and shoulders. The more body exposed, the better. But! In every style, you need to adhere to reasonable measures, otherwise the image will quickly turn from refined to vulgar.

Let's start with the classic Imagine the image of a girl entering a restaurant in long dress with delicate lace made of flowing fabric on thin straps, on her feet are stiletto sandals, and on her neck is a beautiful shiny necklace. Of course, all men's eyes will instantly be focused on her. And if the dress has a corset that fits the chest, then the image is feminine and sophisticated.

For a lingerie-style top with lace, there are a great many options for creating ensembles. It goes well with trousers and shorts, with a skirt and wide trousers. Even ordinary banal tight jeans with a top look great together.

On cool evenings, you can complement the look with a cardigan or jacket made from cashmere or wool.

Heeled shoes are perfect for an evening outfit; it is better to wear stilettos instead of pumps. They will look more elegant with thin cloth. For everyday wear in jeans, shorts or capris with a light lace top Ballet flats or leather sandals will look good. A clutch will complement the look, because you need somewhere to put the essentials for a walk.

Linen style of clothing

We have looked at the features of the main loose-fitting models with thin straps, let’s also note the variety of other shapes. There are models with brightly defined sewn-in cups, and there are narrow, tight-fitting styles of tops or dresses with or without a corset to the waistline.

Another interesting option cut is a robe dress that reaches floor level. There are this variety of dresses in several styles. For example, a slightly wraparound dress with a deep cut in the front, exposing most of the legs and chest. Another intriguing style, on the contrary, leaves completely open back. This cut is often used for evening dresses.

The latest innovation that has captivated all Hollywood stars and has come down to us is the chemise dress. Outwardly, this style resembles men's shirt, only longer. The cut is loose and homey. It seems that the girl was wearing her boyfriend’s shirt at home and forgot to take it off before going out.

When something new appears in the fashion world, the prices for innovations are simply astronomical. In fact, the difficulty of sewing such products lies in the insidiousness of silk and chiffon, which have a habit of stretching. Without the skills to work with such materials and a good sewing machine, it is impossible to sew neatly and beautifully Evening Dress or silk top.

Velvet is also quite difficult to work with, as it tends to crumble, so if you want to have a fashionable summer top or a dress with lace, you can start by sewing it yourself from cotton fabric. It’s easy to sew a lingerie-style top with lace according to the pattern; you need to prepare the materials for work and carefully consider the proposed pattern of the simplest top with loose-fitting straps.

Necessary materials

To sew a short top, you need to buy half a meter of thin cotton fabric. For edging, choose lace to match the fabric, 1.5 meters will be enough. It is also allowed to use lace of a different, contrasting color or standard white.

Some people sew the straps themselves by folding the material, but then the strap turns out to be rough. You can buy braid, 1 meter is enough. For cutting you will need chalk and sharp scissors. To baste the details, prepare pins and contrasting threads with a needle.

Set up sewing machine, putting first then you will need a regular stitch. Threads are needed in the same color as the material. If the lace is of contrasting shades, then it is better to choose a thread in the color of the edging, since the lace is sewn along the top of the fabric.

Sewing

Sewing a top is quite easy if you cut the fabric correctly. If you are in doubt about the indicated sizes, you can do it easier. Take a top you have in your wardrobe, iron it, carefully lay it on the fabric and trace it with chalk. When cutting out parts with scissors, do not forget to leave seam allowances.

Next, we sew the edges along the reverse side with an overlocker and sew down the pattern details using a basting stitch by hand. After trying on the top, you can sew the parts together using machine stitching. Next, sew the lace around the triangles of the bodice and straps. So a fashionable summer top in lingerie style with lace is ready. It's easy to sew. Good luck!