vadim wrote:
I still have I have a question about processing zigzag cuts.
Method 1: In my manual sewing machine it is written that the sections are processed specially. a stitch that is similar to a zigzag, but has 2 more stitches between the vertices of the triangle. Moreover, it is indicated that one of the vertices must fall exactly on the edge of the cut. The disadvantage is that the thin fabrics The machine crushes the edge of the cut and it turns out ugly. Well, I still don’t know how to sew completely over the edge. Sometimes I grab a little more, sometimes a little bit of tissue remains not captured at all.
Method 2: The books say that you need to process the cuts with a zigzag so that the unprocessed part of the allowance is cut with scissors. The disadvantage is that you can't cut it nicely with scissors.
What to do?
How long does it take to learn how to carefully trim with scissors? Is it possible to use method 1 on thick fabrics?
LET'S TRY TO UNDERSTAND “How should slices be processed?” Clarification: we are now considering ways to process side and shoulder seam allowances and the armhole+sleeve knot.
I'll start with two important points
There is no universal method suitable for all cases.
The method of processing a cut of a seam or hem allowance should be determined by the style of the product and the characteristics of the material from which it is made: knitted, woven or non-woven, loose or non-loose, washable or not, light or heavy, transparent or opaque. Try to process the cut so that it protrudes as little as possible above the surface of the fabric, is not rough/heavy, and at the same time does not crumble.
Sections do not always require processing...
The raw cut is found in lined products, as well as in unlined products made from knitted fabric, tightly woven fabrics, non-woven materials: felt, artificial leather, leather, suede, faux suede
and one important rule:
Before using one or another processing method, you should make a test sample. on scraps of the same fabric from the cut, with the same number of layers and the same threads that are used to sew this product. That is, you need to test it not on the product...
LET'S CONSIDER SEVERAL SIMPLE PROCESSING OPTIONS
Zigzag stitch cut
Widely used by amateurs. This method is suitable for items made from fabrics with a loose weave or loose fabrics that can be washed. It is important to remember: light fabrics curl when processing a cut using this method.
This can sometimes happen on medium-thick fabrics.
The defect can be eliminated: a) changing the upper thread to a thinner one; b) loosening the tension of the upper thread; c) reducing the width of the zigzag d) performing a) + b) + c)
If the defect remains, then another processing method must be used.
On flaps, experimentally, changing the parameters, select a zigzag stitch that suits you. Write down its data on the cardboard: width, length, and, if the machine has several types of zigzag, then the number. When you need to set up the machine to process the next cuts, you quickly set the width and length of the zigzag you wrote down on the cardboard and continue working. This is necessary to save your time and, what is important, this will ensure absolutely identical processing of ALL seams of the product. Defects such as: somewhere the zigzag is narrower, somewhere wider, somewhere thicker will simply be excluded. (!!!)
Why on cardboard? The chances of losing it or accidentally throwing it away are slim.
On the picture. I'm preparing a sample. Connecting the parts stitch seam. Operations: 1. sweep or pin pieces, 2. sew a stitch, 3. be sure to iron out the seam reserves.
Markings are visible on the seam stocks. Using a ruler at a distance of 1.5-2.0 cm from the seam, draw lines along which / or next to which the zigzag stitch will be made. What should you pay attention to?
1. If the zigzag is laid near with markings, you can allow yourself to draw clear lines with a simple pencil or even a ballpoint (but not a gel) pen. Because the lines will later be cut off along with the excess tissue. If you write along a line, mark with soap or chalk.
2. Marking will help you perform precise zigzag stitching
3. trimming excess fabric will be easy, quick and simple
4. such a cutting line will not become shaggy
5. Thanks to ruler markings, the entire product will have the same width of seam reserves
Laying a zigzag
Then trim off the excess fabric
Should be trimmed to medium size sharp scissors, stepping back from the edge of the laid line by 1-2 threads. Do not get too close to the stitching to avoid damaging it.
Since the stitching has been carefully marked and laid, this will not be difficult to do.
You can also process the cuts with a type of zigzag - stepped zigzag. Many household sewing machines can perform it. In the instructions for various sewing machines it can be called differently. This is what Vadim mentions in his question.
This is what the seam looks like.
Let's look at the photo below. The left cut is processed with this same stepped zigzag with different lengths stitch – the length of the line is shorter at the top. The excess has not yet been cut off.
If the seam pulls the fabric, read above how to eliminate this defect.
Hemmed cut
Sometimes a zigzag is not needed. Non-flowing seam reserve fabric can be folded down 0.5 - 07 cm. Sew along the top with a straight stitch 2 - 3 mm from the fold
Alternatively, you can use the line for blind seam. It will be beautiful. The quality of processing will improve.
See both options from the face - photo above, on the RIGHT seam stock
And from the inside out - photo below
Chalk had to be put down to press the fabric onto the table.
Serrated cut
If the fabric is not very loose, you can cut out a cut of the hem allowance with teeth.
There are special scissors for this job.
You can first sew a line along the allowance. Distance from seam line to stitch is 1.2 cm
This line will serve as a) a guide for making a straight line of a zigzag cut; b) will strengthen the cut and prevent it from stretching.
This method can be used to process sections of moderately loose fabrics.
vadim wrote:
I still have I have a question about processing zigzag cuts.
Method 1: In my sewing machine manual it says that the sections are processed with a special method. a stitch that is similar to a zigzag, but has 2 more stitches between the vertices of the triangle. Moreover, it is indicated that one of the vertices must fall exactly on the edge of the cut. The disadvantage is that on thin fabrics the machine creases the edge of the cut and the result is unsightly. Well, I still don’t know how to sew completely over the edge. Sometimes I grab a little more, sometimes a little bit of tissue remains not captured at all.
Method 2: The books say that you need to process the cuts with a zigzag so that the unprocessed part of the allowance is cut with scissors. The disadvantage is that you can't cut it nicely with scissors.
What to do?
How long does it take to learn how to carefully trim with scissors? Is it possible to use method 1 on thick fabrics?
LET'S TRY TO UNDERSTAND “How should slices be processed?” Clarification: we are now considering ways to process side and shoulder seam allowances and the armhole+sleeve knot.
I'll start with two important points
There is no universal method suitable for all cases.
The method of processing a cut of a seam or hem allowance should be determined by the style of the product and the characteristics of the material from which it is made: knitted, woven or non-woven, loose or non-loose, washable or not, light or heavy, transparent or opaque. Try to process the cut so that it protrudes as little as possible above the surface of the fabric, is not rough/heavy, and at the same time does not crumble.
Sections do not always require processing...
The raw cut is found in lined products, as well as in unlined products made from knitted fabric, tightly woven fabrics, non-woven materials: felt, artificial leather, leather, suede, artificial suede
and one important rule:
Before using one or another processing method, you should make a test sample. on scraps of the same fabric from the cut, with the same number of layers and the same threads that are used to sew this product. That is, you need to test it not on the product...
Zigzag stitch cut
Widely used by amateurs. This method is suitable for items made from fabrics with a loose weave or loose fabrics that can be washed. It is important to remember: light fabrics curl when processing a cut using this method.
This can sometimes happen on medium-thick fabrics.
The defect can be eliminated: a) changing the upper thread to a thinner one; b) loosening the tension of the upper thread; c) reducing the width of the zigzag d) performing a) + b) + c)
If the defect remains, then another processing method must be used.
On flaps, experimentally, changing the parameters, select a zigzag stitch that suits you. Write down its data on the cardboard: width, length, and, if the machine has several types of zigzag, then the number. When you need to set up the machine to process the next cuts, you quickly set the width and length of the zigzag you wrote down on the cardboard and continue working. This is necessary to save your time and, what is important, this will ensure absolutely identical processing of ALL seams of the product. Defects such as: somewhere the zigzag is narrower, somewhere wider, somewhere thicker will simply be excluded. (!!!)
Why on cardboard? The chances of losing it or accidentally throwing it away are slim.
On the picture. I'm preparing a sample. Connecting the parts stitch seam. Operations: 1. sweep or pin pieces, 2. sew a stitch, 3. be sure to iron out the seam reserves.
Markings are visible on the seam stocks. Using a ruler at a distance of 1.5-2.0 cm from the seam, draw lines along which / or next to which the zigzag stitch will be made. What should you pay attention to?
1. If the zigzag is laid near with markings, you can allow yourself to draw clear lines with a simple pencil or even a ballpoint (but not a gel) pen. Because the lines will later be cut off along with the excess tissue. If you write along a line, mark with soap or chalk.
2. Marking will help you perform precise zigzag stitching
3. trimming excess fabric will be easy, quick and simple
4. such a cutting line will not become shaggy
5. Thanks to ruler markings, the entire product will have the same width of seam reserves
Laying a zigzag
Then trim off the excess fabric
It is necessary to trim with medium-sized sharp scissors, stepping back from the edge of the laid line by 1-2 threads. Do not get too close to the stitching to avoid damaging it.
Since the stitching has been carefully marked and laid, this will not be difficult to do.
You can also process the cuts with a type of zigzag - stepped zigzag. Many household sewing machines can perform it. It may be called differently in the instructions for different sewing machines. This is what Vadim mentions in his question.
This is what the seam looks like.
Let's look at the photo below. The left cut is processed with the same stepped zigzag with different stitch lengths - at the top the stitch length is shorter. The excess has not yet been cut off.
If the seam pulls the fabric, read above how to eliminate this defect.
Hemmed cut
Sometimes a zigzag is not needed. Non-flowing seam reserve fabric can be folded down 0.5 - 07 cm. Sew along the top with a straight stitch 2 - 3 mm from the fold
Alternatively, you can use a blind stitch. It will be beautiful. The quality of processing will improve.
See both options from the face - photo above, on the RIGHT seam stock
And from the inside out - photo below
Chalk had to be put down to press the fabric onto the table.
Serrated cut
If the fabric is not very loose, you can cut out a cut of the hem allowance with teeth.
There are special scissors for this job.
You can first sew a line along the allowance. Distance from seam line to stitch is 1.2 cm
This line will serve as a) a guide for making a straight line of a zigzag cut; b) will strengthen the cut and prevent it from stretching.
This method can be used to process sections of moderately loose fabrics.
Melted cut
On fabrics that contain a lot of synthetics, sections can be melted in a flame (candle). You need to do this work carefully and carefully. Excessive melting forms a hard scar along the edge. Sometimes a soldering iron is used.
And that is not all.
Seams and processing of sections (continued). Closed seams
Clarification: we are now continuing to consider ways to process side and shoulder seam allowances and the armhole+sleeve knot.
Sometimes the problem of processing slices can be solved elegantly. How exactly?
The idea is simple and ingenious: we sew the product not with an ordinary stitch, but with a special seam with closed cuts. The peculiarity of this seam is that the cuts are embedded inside the seam and therefore do not need to be processed.
For such purposes, two seams are used: backstitching and reverse stitching.
Sewing seam
This seam has several names: linen seam, closed seam, lock seam, and sometimes it is called denim seam for its external resemblance to denim on the front side.
Since the seam is very durable, it is used in cases where the product is subjected to heavy loads during wear and washing. Namely: for sewing bed linen, nightgowns, pajamas for sleep, sportswear, industrial clothing, military uniform. Often when sewing men's shirts.
The design of the seam is such that the fabric sections are hidden inside. Professionals say about seams of this type: they have closed cuts.
The sewing seam can be used both for joining parts and as a decorative seam. Its width depends on the purpose.
Such seams can be used for sewing products from double-sided fabrics. Clothes sewn in this way can be worn on one side or the other.
Sewing enthusiasts must master the technique of performing at least a few basic seams that are easy to perform. Among them is the hemming seam. This will be especially useful for those who do not have an overlocker at their disposal.
This seam ensures high quality: both from the front and from the back the product looks neat and professionally sewn
It is performed in two steps. Read and understand this phrase so that this seam is made in (only) two lines. It has a special feature: it can be made on the front or back side.
For example, for a seam on the WRONG SIDE we work as follows:
Lay the sections of the parts with the right sides inward on top of each other, releasing the bottom of them to a width of 0.5-0.7 cm. Chip or sweep.
Sew the details. Sew to the width of your foot or less. Here it is: the farther from the cut you stitch, the wider the future seam will be. 
Open up the pieces to be sewn. 
Iron it out. Over time, once you get the hang of it, you will be able to work with cotton fabrics without an iron. But that will come later. Now you definitely need to IRON this seam.
The photo shows a special device for smoothing out seam reserves. Material - bone 
After ironing, turn both seam stocks to one side so that the wide cut is on top. 
Curl this cut 0.5 cm around the bottom cut. You will get a hem from 3 layers of fabric 0.5-0.7 cm wide 
Baste this hem to the bottom layer of fabric. With experience it will be possible to do without basting. 
Set aside at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold. Stitch length 1.5 - 4 mm. 
The width of the sewing seam can vary from 0.5 to 3.0 cm depending on the model and thickness of the fabric.
If everything was not clearly visible in the photographs, two diagrams for this seam will be useful to you 
Advice:
1. To make it easier to learn this seam, at the very beginning of work, shift the fabrics to be sewn not by 0.5-0.7 cm, but by 1 cm. It will be easier and easier for you to sew. However, you will end up with a wider seam. Do the same delay 1-2 mm from the fold, but with longer stitches - for decorative purposes. When you master this wide option, move on to the standard 0.5 - 0.7 cm
2. As you master it, first give up ironing and then basting.
To ensure that the fabric lies flat, ironing is replaced by smoothing the seam. With your fingers, a ring of scissors, a special device (see it in the photo above)
Another seam with closed cuts
double reversible
In addition, it has other names. Easy to perform. Indispensable for sewing and processing sections of thin and transparent fabrics.
This seam was described in detail by Larisa Klepacheva
I supplement its description with a small diagram of this seam 
and photo from the face 
from the inside out 
IMPORTANT!
If you sew a product using one of the closed seams described here, then when cutting the parts you MUST REDUCE the SEAM ALLOWANCES accordingly compared to a regular cut.
And products whose patterns were drawn with a large allowance for a loose fit (pajamas, nightdress, a sports jacket without insulation) is usually cut WITHOUT SEAMARY ALLOWANCES = provided that you sew with a regular narrow seam.
For thick fabrics, the width of the sewing seam should, of course, be wider than for thin fabrics. Optimal: decide on this issue BEFORE cutting
That's all for today. Next time I'll tell you about hem edging and the improved zigzag stitch.
In their work, tailors often encounter flaws in the fit of products. We have already given you recommendations for eliminating inaccuracies in the fit of skirts and trousers, and today we will consider in detail the causes of defects in the fit of shoulder products.
The correct fit of shoulder products - be it dresses, jackets or coats, is primarily determined by the balance of the main seams - shoulder seams should correspond to the shoulder lines, side seams should correspond to the side lines, the waist seam should be located exactly at the waist (with the exception of products with a low or high waist) . The product itself should fit the figure in such a way that, first of all, it ensures comfort of movement for its owner. There should be no unnecessary creases or folds on the product, and if there are any, such and all other defects must be eliminated during the fitting process.
In what cases can folds and creases appear on the product?
IMPORTANT! IN in this case We are talking about fit defects, and not about folds provided for by the style of the product.
Horizontal folds can occur if a product part has too much excess length in the vertical direction or lack of width in the horizontal direction. In the first case, the nature of the folds will be soft and free, in the second, the folds will be formed due to the horizontal tension of the fabric.
Vertical folds are exactly the opposite: they occur when the part is too wide in the horizontal direction or is not long enough in the vertical direction.
Inclined folds can occur as a result of shortening, lengthening or narrowing a part on one side.
It is better to eliminate most of these defects during preliminary fittings on a sample product. If for some reason you do not plan to sew a sampler, it is recommended to make increased seam allowances along the middle back seam, shoulder seams, armholes, and allowances at the bottom of the product.
Narrow back
With such a defect, horizontal folds form in the back area, the fabric is stretched, and the product hinders movement.
Rice. 1. Narrow back
How to fix?
The defect is eliminated by allowing allowance along the middle back seam. Open the middle seam and increase the width of the back by the required distance. To prevent the width of the back from increasing at the waist and hips, narrow the back along the side seam from the armhole line to the bottom.
Be sure to check the neckline of the back, it should not increase, as another defect may occur - the collar will lag behind the neck.
Rice. 1a. Elimination of the narrow back defect
Wide back
With such a defect, a horizontal fold appears along the back, and excess tissue is clearly visible.
Rice. 2. Wide back
How to fix?
Open the middle back seam and tuck excess fabric into the seam. The armhole line may also need to be adjusted (if the back is too wide). If there is a slight excess of fabric, pressing the fabric along the back can help.
Rice. 2a. Elimination of the wide back defect
Such a defect may occur due to an imbalance of the product, a discrepancy between the angle of the shoulder of the customer’s figure and the angle of the shoulder seam according to the pattern. The angle of the shoulder seam needs to be adjusted.
Rice. 3. Oblique folds along the back armhole
Rice. 4. Slant folds along the front armhole
How to fix?
It is necessary to adjust the shoulder line of the backrest. To do this, determine the value at which the folds disappear by lowering the shoulder of the backrest. Adjust the backrest's shoulder angle. Correct the inclination of the front shoulder in the same way (Fig. 4a).
If such a defect occurs as a result of an asymmetry of the figure (there are differences in height between the right and left shoulders), you can use a shoulder pad or increase the thickness of one of them.
Rice. 3a. Adjusting the backrest's shoulder angle
Rice. 4a. Correction of front shoulder angle
If the figure has straight shoulders, the opposite situation may arise in which it will be necessary to raise the shoulder of the front and back (Fig. 4b). The armhole depth may also need to be adjusted (see Figure 4a).
Rice. 4b. Correcting the inclination of the front shoulder with straight shoulders
Sloping creases at side seams
Creases are formed from the side seams, the fabric seems to roll, there is excess fabric in the side area. Such a defect may arise as a result of errors in the construction of patterns. It should be corrected on a product sample, then changes should be made to the patterns (Fig. 5a-6a).
Rice. 5. Sloping creases at the side seams of the back
Rice. 6. Sloping creases at the front side seams
How to fix?
Place a horizontal fold along the side of the back below the armhole line. Bring the fold to the center of the back. Mark the fold line with chalk, cut along the marked lines and adjust the pattern piece. Place the fold along the front to the required depth, bringing it to the center of the front. Adjust the patterns and try them on again.
Rice. 5a-6a. Elimination of oblique creases along the back and front and adjustment of the pattern
The product's floors diverge downward
With this defect, the floors diverge downwards below the chest line, and oblique creases may appear.
Rice. 7. The floors of the product diverge downwards
How to fix?
Lower the shoulder line of the shelf to the required height so that the floors do not diverge. Adjust the pattern and, if necessary, also adjust the armhole line.
A similar defect can also occur due to incorrectly performed WTO fabric - the floor can be stretched. In this case, the situation can be corrected by bending along the side along the length.
Rice. 7a. Elimination of defects in diverging floors
Floors overlap each other
With such a defect, the floors overlap one another at an angle, the product is distorted, there is no alignment along the middle front line.
Rice. 8. Floors overlap each other
How to fix?
This defect can be corrected by increasing allowances along the shoulder seams. The collar stitching mark must be moved to the appropriate length. Swipe new line shoulder After adjustment, try it on and check the hemline and armhole depth.
Rice. 8a. Floors overlap each other - eliminating the defect
Short back
Vertical creases occur, discomfort in the back area, the waistline and bottom line of the product are pulled up.
Rice. 9. Short back
How to fix?
Cut the pattern below the armhole line and extend it to the required length. If you have already cut out the product, and you have enough width for the shoulder and waist allowances, you can rebuild the back, lengthening it to measure.
Rice. 10. Long back
How to fix?
Cut the pattern below the armhole line and overlap the cut pieces to the required length. You can also shorten the back from the bottom by rearranging the lines of the middle and sides of the back.
Rice. 10a. Elimination of the “long back” defect
Before you begin to study the issue of imbalance, you need to have a good understanding of what balance is. The article gives basic concepts and tells you how to take measurements correctly. Read it before looking for fit defects caused by improper balance.
We especially note that imbalance is possible not only in a product that we sewed using a pattern we created ourselves, but also in a finished pattern that we took from a magazine or sent by mail. The fact is that these patterns are designed for a standard figure without taking into account body features. This issue is discussed very clearly in the forum topic.
Disturbance of balance
An imbalance in the form of creases, folds, diverging or converging floors is caused by a complex of reasons, which should be dealt with in the following order:
Identify existing defects.
. Based on the external expression of the defect, make a list of all the reasons.
. Analyze what caused the defect. Moreover, those defects whose cause is easiest to eliminate should be considered and eliminated first.
A specific example of rebalancing
Each case of imbalance is individual and depends on the specific figure. We will try to use a specific example to consider one of the typical cases of imbalance. The example considers the violation of vertical and horizontal balance simultaneously.
Creases on the shelf in the shoulder area- a defect that is most noticeable, therefore, it must be eliminated first. The reason is the incorrect location of the point at the base of the neck, hence the incorrect taking of measurements and, as a result, incorrect construction of the pattern.
Trimming is done: at the neck - at the point of the base of the neck and the seventh cervical vertebra; along the armhole - at the highest point of the shoulder and the point of articulation of the arm with the body.
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Incorrect position of the shoulder seam- it is shifted back. This is the second defect that immediately catches the eye when the figure is turned in profile. The reason is that the back length was measured incorrectly.
Sequencing. We unpick the shoulder seam or remove the pins from it. We move the position of the shoulder seam forward (due to the seam allowance) until it takes the correct position on the figure. This displacement can be up to 1 cm. If a larger shift is required, we eliminate the defect in a different way, because on the face obvious imbalance.
Let's begin to correct the balance. We move the side seam of the back up until the shoulder seam is installed in the place where the defect disappears. This will generally be the correct placement of the shoulder seam on the figure. Cleaving side seams.
Now our product is balanced. What do we see? We are once again convinced, looking at the position taken by the waist line (basting stitches), that the measurements of the back length and front length were taken incorrectly. Otherwise, the waistline on the back would not rise so high, and the waistline of the shelf would not fall so low, relative to the true waistline.
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All we have to do is align the bottom of the product, mark the new position of the waistline on the sampler and make these changes to the pattern.
Vertical deviation of product sides
The example discussed above shows a specific, most common case of imbalance. What other defects could there be?
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The sides of the product overlap each other belowLet's make sure whether the side was actually pulled down by the sharer. To do this, it needs to be removed from the side - torn or separated (if it is adhesive). If the defect disappears, it means that the reason was precisely in the share, and it must be attached so that the defect does not appear again.
After making sure that the bead is processed correctly, we check the position of the top of the neck in relation to the neck. If the position is incorrect, we rip out the shoulder seam, as in the specific example above, and find the correct location of the top of the neckline relative to the point of the base of the neck.
We move on to the next stage - check the length of the cut of the collar, which is sewn into the neck. We steam the collar, measure the length of its cut, as well as the length of the neck. Let's see how much one slice is larger than the other. Align the cuts. Since we cannot change the length of the neckline, we lengthen the length of the collar cut. This can be done using allowances, but more often than not, the collar is recut.
We clarify the correspondence of the slope of the shoulder sections of the back and shelf to the slope of the figure’s shoulders. If an adjustment is needed, we make it into the product - increase the bevel. There is no need to immediately grab the scissors, just pin the excess with pins, connecting the shoulder sections.
If the defect has not disappeared after all the steps performed, this means that the measurement of the length of the back to the waist was made incorrectly - it is long, that is, the balance of the product is upset. We looked at how to fix it using a specific example. We make corrections to the pattern.
Let's imagine that you made all of the above defects when sewing a coat without making a sample. This will cause the length of the coat to decrease after adjustments are made. Therefore, before taking on a serious thing, make a sample - it’s easier to correct mistakes.
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Possible causes of a defect when designing a pattern and sewing a product for fitting: |
The sides of the product diverge at the bottomWe analyze and correct defects:
Let's make sure that the side is really stretched. If yes, we remove the share, reduce the length of the side, and return the share to its place. Side length can be reduced different ways: lay a thread that will slightly tighten it or two parallel threads; to argue; Glue the splitter with tension to the side. We choose the one we own or the one that is most suitable for a given fabric.
. Find the correct position for the top of the shelf neck. We already know how to do this from the previous example.
We check the length of the cut of the collar, which is sewn into the neck. If necessary, shorten its cut.
We clarify the correspondence of the slope of the shoulder sections of the back and shelf to the slope of the figure’s shoulders. If an adjustment is needed, we make it into the product - we reduce the bevel, releasing the insufficient amount from the seams due to allowances. If there are not enough allowances, this indicates a serious imbalance in the product.
If the defect has not disappeared after all the steps performed, this means that the measurement of the length of the back to the waist was incorrect - it is short. We looked at how to fix the defect using a specific example. We make corrections to the pattern.
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Possible causes of a defect when designing a pattern and sewing a product for fitting: |
We analyze and correct defects:
We make sure how correctly the lining is connected to the product. Partially detach the lining from the product. If the defect disappears, there is an error in the fastening of the lining.
If the product presses in the armpit, the depth of the armhole is small. We deepen it a little bit until the defect disappears.
We make sure that the shoulder slopes correspond to the figure. Above we looked at how to fix this defect if it is present.
We check whether the reduction of the shoulder cuts and the reduction of the armhole cut, which are necessary for the protruding shoulder blades, have been made. If there is a defect, we correct it. And only after that we evaluate whether the shoulders are at the same height. If the difference between the arms is significant, then the defect will be on only one side of the product. We align the shoulder sections in accordance with the figure - increase the seam allowance for the low shoulder, taking the excess fabric into the seam until the crease disappears.
If the defect has not disappeared, there is an imbalance, namely the measurement of the length of the back to the waist is small. We correct the balance as described in the specific example. We make corrections to the pattern.
Thank you Murzilka behind qualified assistance in preparing the article.