The styles of trousers can be very diverse: classic and sporty; voluminous in the hips and more adjacent; widened towards the bottom and narrowed; with cuffs and without cuffs; With different types pockets and without them; length, which varies from knees to foot level; with slits in the side seams and without slits; with various finishes: braid, lace, lacing and other decorative elements. Trousers are made both with and without lining. A wide variety of fabrics are used for sewing trousers: from guipure to drape.
The starting point for all this abundance is construction of the main drawing of trousers. And already on its basis all the styles that you can imagine are designed.
And here’s something else I would like to remind you: If you think that this is difficult, you will see that you were right. If you think that it is simple, you will again be convinced that you are right. So before you think, think! I wish you courage and self-confidence.
Let's take the first step.
We do not claim to be the author of the methodology for constructing the basic drawing of trousers, but only use it as an example. You can use any other one. It’s even better to try several methods to determine which one is most suitable for you. After all the main thing is to adjust what you get to your individual standard.
To construct a drawing of the base of the trousers, the following measurements and allowances are required (the figures given correspond to size 48:
Waist semicircle (St) = 38cm,
Semi-circle of hips (Sb) = 52cm,
Pants length to the knee (Lk) = 56cm;
Pants side length (Db) = 100cm;
Pants width at the bottom (W) = 24cm;
Increases for a loose fit at the waist (Pt) and hips (Pb) are selected depending on the degree of fit of the trousers: Pt - from 0 to 1.5 cm, Pb - from 0.5 to 4 cm. For our construction, we will take the minimum allowance at the waist, i.e. zero, and at the hips – 1 cm.
Fri = 0cm;
Pb = 1cm;
We also need three control Measurements: knee circumference, ankle circumference and hip circumference.
Construction of a drawing of the front half of the trousers.
We begin the construction of the drawing by drawing two mutually perpendicular lines.
We denote the intersection point as T1.
Seat height.
There are two options for determining the seat height: by taking measurements and by calculation. In our example we use the second option, i.e. Let's determine this value using the formula T1R1 = 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) + 1 cm. Let's substitute the values, we get = 0.5 x (52+ 1)+ 1 = 27.5 cm.
From point T1 downwards vertically set aside 27.5 cm and place point Y1. From point Y1, left and right, draw a horizontal line.
Hip line.
Then everything is similar - the formula, we substitute the corresponding values, we get the desired result. R1B1 = (T1R1): 3 = 27.5: 3 =9.1 cm.
From point Y1 up vertically, set aside 9.1 cm and place point B1. Through point B1 draw a horizontal line to the left and right.
The width of the front half along the hip line.
Formula, values, result. Let's move on.
B1B2 = 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 = 0.5 x (52+ 1) - 1 = 26.5 - 1 = 25.5 cm.
From point B1 to the right horizontally, set aside 25.5 cm and place point B2. Draw a vertical line up and down through point B2, and mark the intersection points as T2 and R2.
Rice. 2
Step width.
R2R3 = 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) Carefully substitute the values = 0.1 x (52 + 1) = 5.3 cm (see figure below).
From point Y2 to the right horizontally, set aside 5.3 cm and place point Y3.
The position of the fold line.
I1I=I1I3: 2.
Divide the segment Y1Y3 in half and put point Y.
Draw a vertical line through point I up and down, and mark the points of intersection with the auxiliary lines as T and B.
Rice. 3
Knee lines.
Distance TK is equal to the taken measurement Dk = 56 cm.
From point T down along the fold line, set aside 56 cm and place point K. Through point K, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.
Length trousers.
TN = db = 100cm.
From point T down along the fold line, set aside 100 cm and place point H. Through point H, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.
The width of the front half of the trousers along the hemline.
HH1 = HH2 = 0.5 x (Wn - 2) = 0.5 x (24 - 2) = 11cm. From point H to the left and to the right, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - H1, on the right - H2.
The width of the trousers at the bottom should not be less than the ankle circumference measurement.
Fig.5
The width of the front half of the trousers at the knee line.
KK1 = KK2 = HH1 = 11cm.
It should be noted that the width of the trousers along the knee line can be greater or less than the width of the trousers along the hemline or be the same, but should not be less than the knee circumference measurement (OK) plus an increase of 2 cm for a loose fit. We take the width of the trousers along the knee line to be equal to the width of the trousers along the hem line. From point K to the left and right horizontally, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - K1, on the right - K2.
Auxiliary points for designing the step cut line.
We obtain point R21 by dividing the segment R2R3 in half.
Connect points Y21 and K2 with a straight line, divide this segment in half and connect the division point with a smooth concave line to point Y3.
Draw a step cut line below the division point through points K2 and H2, connecting them with a straight line.
Rice. 6
Design of the “bow” line (the line of the middle cut of the front half).
T2T0 = from 0 to 1 cm;
The distance T2T0 is taken equal to zero for figures with a convex belly, as well as when trousers are supposed to be sewn from fabric with a checkered and striped pattern, although last condition it is not necessary to comply.
In our example, the distance T2T0 is 1 cm.
From point T2 to the left horizontally, set aside 1 cm and place point T0. Connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. Connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and place point D. Connect point D with a straight line to point R2. Divide the segment DY2 in half and mark the division point as D1. Draw the “bow” line through points T0, B2, D1, Y3 with a smooth line.
Rice. 7
Width at waistline.
Т0Т4 = 0.5 x (St + Fri) + two darts. The width of each dart is 2cm. We take the minimum allowance along the waist line, i.e. equal to zero. We substitute the values into the formula = 0.5x(38 + 0) + 2x2 = 23 cm.
From point T0 to the left horizontally, set aside 23 cm and place point T4.
Position of darts at the waist line.
The first dart is located along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from point T to the left and to the right. The length of the dart is 8-10 cm. Decorate the sides of the dart with straight lines;
The second dart is located in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the opening of the 1st dart. From the dividing point, lower a perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the dart, set aside 1 cm to the left and right and decorate the sides of the dart.
Rice. 8
Side cut line of the front half of the trousers.
Connect points J1 and K1 of the auxiliary straight line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular, set aside a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw a side cut line through points T4, B1, R1, deflection point, K1, H1.
Rice. 9
Bottom line.
The bottom line of the front half is formed by a straight line H1H2.
The construction of the drawing of the front half of the trousers is completed.
Construction of a drawing of the back half of the trousers.
The width of the back half of the trousers along the hemline.H1H3 = H2H4 = 2cm.
From points H1 and H2 to the left and right, set aside 2 cm and place points H3 on the left and H4 on the right, respectively.
Bottom line of the back half: from point H, set aside 0.5 cm vertically downwards and place point H5. Draw the bottom line with straight lines, connecting points H3, H5, H4.
Rice. eleven
The width of the back half of the trousers at the knee line.
K1K3 = K2K4 = 2cm. From points K1 and K2, set aside 2 cm to the left and right and place points K3 and K4, respectively. Connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.
Rice. 12
Step Width(See picture below).
R2R5 = 0.2 x (Sb + Pb) + 1. Substitute the values into the formula = 0.2 x (52+ 1) + 1 = 11.6 cm. From point Y2 to the right horizontally, set aside 11.6 cm and place point Y5
Step cutting line.
Connect points J5 and K4 with a straight line. Divide the segment Y5K4 in half, at the point of division along the perpendicular to the left, set aside 0.5-0.7 cm - we get an auxiliary deflection point. From point R3, lower a perpendicular 1 cm long down and place point R31. R3 R31 = 1 cm. From point Y2 through point Y31, draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Designate the intersection point as R51.
Draw the step cut line through points Y51, the deflection point and point K4 with a smooth concave line, and through points K4, H4 - with a straight line.
Rice. 13
Middle cut line.
Auxiliary points:
D1D2=D1Y2: 2
The balance of the trousers is the ratio of the levels of the cut vertices of the front and back halves.
TT21=TT2: 3
From point T to the right, set aside 1/3 of the length of segment TT2 and place point T21. From point T21, draw a vertical line up, set aside 4.3 cm on it and place point T5:
T21T5 = 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 = 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 = 4.3 cm.
Connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, mark the point of intersection with the hip line as B3.
Draw the middle cut line through points T5, B3 as a straight line, then through points D2, Ya31, Ya51 as a slightly concave line.
Rice. 14
The width of the back half of the trousers along the hip line.
B3B4 = (Sb + Pb) - B1B2 from the front half = (52 + 1) - 25.5 = 27.5 cm.
From point B3 to the left horizontally, set aside 27.5 cm and place point B4.
The width of the back half of the trousers at the waistline.
Т5Т7 = 0.5 x (St + Fri) + 2 darts. The opening width of each dart is taken to be 2 cm = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.
From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and place point T7. Connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.
Rice. 15
The position of the darts of the back half of the trousers.
Divide the T5T7 segment into three equal parts, lower perpendiculars 8-10 cm long from the division points - we get the axial lines of the darts, from which we put half of the dart solution to the left and right, i.e. 1cm each Decorate the sides of the darts with straight lines.
Rice. 16
Side cut line of the back half of the trousers.
To ensure a smooth side cut line, the distance B4K3 must be divided into three equal parts. From the dividing points along the perpendicular we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Moreover, at the upper point of division it goes to the left, and at the lower point – to the right.
Rice. 17
We draw a side cut line.
Connect points T7 and B4 with a slightly convex line, points B4 and K3 with a convex-concave line, through auxiliary points (see figure). We connect points K3 and H4 with a straight line.
Fig.18
The drawing of the back half of the trousers is completed.
Rice. 19
You have finished drawing the trouser pattern.
From this base you can construct any style and, of course, it can be used as a pattern for sewing dress pants. By making minor changes to the design, for example, widening the knees or narrowing the bottom, you will get a completely new model. By experimenting, you gain invaluable experience.
We will post detailed instructions on design and sewing technology with visual examples in the appropriate sections.
I wish you all creative inspiration!
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Simple step by step construction patterns women's trousers- a great start for those who dream of sewing them perfectly! The basic pattern that we offer you is the basis on which you can model any trouser item - capri pants, jeans, low-waisted, elasticated, and even maternity pants! In order for the products to have a good fit, you need to take all the necessary measurements as accurately as possible.
To create a basic pattern you will need the following measurements:
Waist circumference (FROM)
Hip circumference (H)
Knee circumference (OK)
Bottom width (ShN)
Side seam length (DB)
Seat height (from the waist to the subgluteal fold) (BC)
Knee height (VK)
Step length (L) (according to inside legs from groin to floor) or DB-VS
IMPORTANT! The step length measurement can also be calculated using the formula: Side seam length minus Seat height.
Calculation values required for creating a pattern:
Width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb) (1/4 OB minus 1 cm)
Width of the back half of the trousers (Шзпб) (1/4 OB plus 1 cm plus 0-1 cm for loose fit)
ADVICE! To accurately take measurements, measurements should be taken with the tape tightly wrapped around the body, preferably while wearing underwear. The waist circumference is measured at the thinnest part of the body, the hip circumference is measured at the protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account all the bulges (the “breeches” area), the maximum volume of the hips. The length of the trousers is measured along the side from the waist line to the floor. The seat height is measured while sitting on a chair - from the waist line, a centimeter tape is lowered strictly vertically to the surface of the seat.
Waist circumference (OT) - 72 cm 36 18
Hip circumference (H) - 98 cm 49 24.5
Bottom width (ШН) - 42 cm 21 10.5
Side length (DB) - 106 cm
Seat height (BC) - 25.5 cm
Knee height (VK) - 56 cm
Step length (LW) - 80.5 cm
Width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb: 1/4 OB minus 1 cm) - 23.5 cm
The width of the back half of the trousers (Wzspb: 1/4 OB +1 cm + 0-1 cm increase in freedom of fit) - 25.5 cm
¼ Шзпб=25.5:4=6.4 cm
Construction of the front half of the trousers
Rice. 1 Constructing a pattern for the front half of the trousers
We start constructing the pattern from the front half. In the upper left corner, stepping back some distance from the edge, place point A.
Draw vertical and horizontal lines. From point A to the right, set aside the width of the front half of the trousers: AA1 = 23.5 cm (calculated width of the front half of the trousers).
From point A down a vertical line, set AB = 25.5 cm (seat height according to measurement).
AK = 56 cm (Knee height as measured).
AN = 106 cm (Pants length on the side).
BB1 = 7.9 cm (1/10 Half hip circumference according to measurement + 3 cm).
Draw horizontal lines from points B1, B, K, H1.
From point A1, lower the perpendicular down to the horizontal line drawn earlier from point B. Points B2 and C are obtained.
В2В3 = 5.9 cm - The step width of the front half is calculated by the formula: 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips according to the measurement plus 0.5 - 1 cm. (Note: for tight-fitting trousers the increase is 0-0.5 cm, for standard ones - 0.5-1 cm, for loose wide ones - 1-2 cm).
Divide segment B1B3 in half to obtain point B4. НН1=В1В4. The arrow line of the front half is drawn through points B4 and H1 to the waist line, points A2 and H1 are obtained.
From point H1 to the left and right, set aside 1/4 of the width of the bottom of the trousers according to the measurement minus 1 cm: H1H2 = H1H3 = 9.5 cm. Connect points B1H2 and B3H3 with auxiliary straight lines. Points B0, C1, K2, K3 were obtained.
From point B2 to the right, set aside 0.5 cm. CC2 = 1/2 CC1. Connect the points C1C2 with a straight line.
A1A3 = 0.5-1 cm. Draw an auxiliary line from point A3 through point 0.5 to line C1C2. Draw a bow line for the front half, from point A3, through the auxiliary point 0.5 in a straight line, then along the pattern to point C1.
Calculation of the dart of the front half of the trousers
Set aside from point A3 the segment A3A4 = 1/4 FROM plus 1.5 - 2.5 cm for the dart plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit. Shape the waist line of the front half of the trousers according to the pattern, raising the side line from point A4 up 0.5 cm.
Location of the front half dart. Divide the distance between points A2 and 0.5 in half. Draw a perpendicular line to the hip line. Draw a dart 9-10 cm long and 1.5 - 2.5 cm deep, moving the end of the dart to the left 0.5 cm, as shown in the drawing.
Depending on the model, narrow the trousers at the knee by 0.5-1 cm, drawing a concave line.
ADVICE! It is easier to process hem allowances for trousers if the side and step lines are perpendicular to the hem line, at least by the width of the hem allowance. Therefore, draw the lines of the side and step seams downwards at a right angle, retreating 0.5 cm from points H2 and H3 to the left and right.
Constructing the back half of the trousers
Rice. 2. Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers
The construction of the back halves of the trousers is made on the basis of the drawing of the front half.
From point B4, set aside 1 cm to the right: B4B5 = 1 cm (arrow of the rear half). Connect points B5 and K1 with a dotted line.
From point B5, set aside 6.4 cm to the right: B5B6 = 6.4 cm (1/4 of the width of the back half of the trousers).
From point B0, set aside 4 cm upward: B0G = 4 cm. (Note: for figures with protruding buttocks this value is 3 cm, for figures with flat buttocks this value is 5-6 cm. For wide trousers also take 5-6 cm).
Rice. 3a. Construction of a perpendicular to the segment GV6.
Rice. 3b. Construction of the segment Г1Г2
Connect points G and B6. From point B6, draw a perpendicular to the segment GB6 up and down (Fig. 3a). Continue the line of the waist and hips to the left and right.
Next, you should construct a segment G1G2 with a length of 25.5 cm: G1G2 = 25.5 (calculated width of the back half of the trousers). Draw line G1G2 parallel to line V6G, so that point G2 lies on the line of the hips (Fig. 3b).
ADVICE! Drawing perpendicular and parallel lines, subject to certain conditions along their length, is much easier with the help of a large triangular ruler.
Rice. 4a. Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers
Rice. 4b. Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers
Measure the distance V5G2 and set aside the same distance from point B5 to the right: V5G2 = V5G3.
The lines of the side and step cuts of the back half of the trousers are drawn parallel at a distance of 2 cm from the lines of the front half of the trousers.
Place 2 cm to the left along the knee line from the side seam of the front half of the trousers - point K4. Also set aside 2 cm from the crotch seam to the right - you get point K5. Connect point K5 and point G3 with a straight line.
Draw a straight line from point K4 through point G2 to the waist line - you have obtained point T.
Waistline of the back half of the trousers. Measure the distance from K1T and from point K1 set aside K1T1 = K1T so that point T1 lies on the straight line from point B6.
Connect points T and T1. From point T1, set aside 0.5 cm to the left: T1T2 = 0.5 cm, connect points T2 and B6 with a straight segment.
Calculation of the dart of the back half of the trousers
T2T3 is equal to 1/4 OT plus 3 cm (for the dart of the back half), plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit.
Transfer the length of the side cut of the back half of the trousers from the front half, while the side line of the back half can rise up slightly above the waist line. Shape the waistline of the back half of the trousers.
Dart in the back half of the trousers. Divide segment T2T3 in half. Perpendicular to the waist line, draw a dart 13 - 14 cm long and 3 cm deep.
K5G4 - the length of the crotch cut of the back half of the trousers is equal to the crotch seam of the front half of the trousers G4K5=C1C3 minus 0 -0.5 cm. The seam of the trousers is drawn slightly concave.
Draw the line of the middle seam of the back half of V6G4 according to the pattern.
Rice. 5. Pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers
Separately transfer the pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers onto tracing paper and proceed to modeling the style.
In today’s article, we’ll look at a pattern for women’s jeans that fit your figure tightly and emphasize its slimness.
This pattern can also be used to construct a variety of skinny trousers.
Before you start creating a jeans pattern, you need to take measurements of your figure. See how to do this correctly.
As an example, we will use the following dimensional characteristics female figure:
Construction of the front half of women's jeans
1. Draw a vertical line with its vertex at point T, from which the following values are plotted down:
Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the size depends on the shape of the hips).
Seat height: TY = BC measurement – 3 cm = 27 cm – 3 cm = 24 cm.
Length of trousers to the knee: YAK = 1/2 DN – 1/10 DN, where
DN = measure DsB – segment TY = 106 cm - 24 cm = 82 cm
YAK = 1/2 82 cm – 1/10 82 cm = 32.8 cm.
Jeans length: TN = DSB measurement = 106 cm.
The final length is determined by fitting; see how to do this. 
Position of the hip line: YB = 1/10 measurements SB + 3 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 3 cm = 8 cm.
Through points T 1, B, Z, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.
2. Width of the front half of the jeans at hip level: BB 1 = 1/2 SB measurement – 1 cm = 1/2 50 cm – 1 cm = 24 cm.
3. Draw a vertical through point B 1, at the intersection with the horizontals we get T 2, I 1.
4. Step width of the front half of the jeans: B 1 B 2 = 1/10 SB measurement + 0-0.5 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 0.5 cm = 5.5 cm.
For very narrow trousers, a smaller increase is selected.
5. The position of the front fold of the trousers is determined by dividing the segment BB 2 in half, we get B 3, through which to draw a vertical line from the waist to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
6. Width of jeans at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 = H 1 H 3 = 1/2 measurement WN – 0.5-1 cm (displacement amount of side and step cuts) = 1/2 20 cm – 1 cm = 9 cm .
For skinny trousers, a smaller amount of offset in the side and step cuts is better for visual perception.
7. From points H 2, H 3, draw upwards:
- auxiliary side line to B;
- auxiliary step line to B 2.
We get points I 2, I 3.
8. To narrow the trousers in the knee area, set aside 1.5-2 cm inward from the auxiliary side and step lines, points K 2, K 3 are obtained.
9. To build midline the front part of the jeans from T 2 is set aside 1-1.5 cm to the left, depending on the value of the waist circumference or the shape of the trousers, we get T 3.
From B 1, move 0.5 cm to the right.
From I 1 up, set aside 1/2 of the segment I 1 I 3, we get point a, which is connected by a straight line to I 3.
Draw a middle line through T 3, 0.5, I 3.
10. To create a waist line from T 3, set aside 1/2 of the ST measurement + 1 cm to the left.
T 3 T 4 = 1/2 38 cm + 1 cm = 20 cm.
From T 4, set aside the top 1-1.5 cm (length of segment TT 1), we get T 5.
Decorate the top cut of the front half of women's jeans as shown in the figure.
11.Side cut draw by connecting points T 5, B, I 2 with a slightly convex curve, points I 2, K 2, H 2 with a smooth concave curve.
12. Checkout step cut through I 3, K 3, N 3 a smooth concave curve.
Constructing the back half of women's jeans
The back half of the jeans is built on the drawing of the front.
1. Extension at the level of the knee and bottom: K 2 K 4 = K 3 K 5 = 2 cm, H 2 H 4 = H 3 H 5 = 2 cm.
If in the drawing of the front half the displacement of the side and step sections was 0.5 cm (see point 6), then the expansion at the level of the knee and bottom will be equal to 1 cm.
Using the resulting points, draw side and step sections parallel to similar sections of the front of the jeans.
2. From B 3, set aside 1-2 cm to the right to determine the position of the back fold of the jeans, we get B 4.
This value also determines the slope of the back of the trousers:
- a larger value ensures a straighter position at the top of the back of the trousers (for flatter buttocks);
- a smaller value means a greater inclination of the upper section (for more convex buttocks).
3. From I 2, put 1-3 cm up (here 1.5 cm), we get a 1.
A larger value is reserved when constructing jeans for a figure with flat buttocks, a smaller value for figures with convex buttocks.
4. Width of the back half of the jeans (W): 1/2 SB measurement + 1 cm = 1/2 50 cm + 1 cm = 26 cm.
5. From B 4, set aside 1/4 W + 0.5-1 cm to the right.
B 4 B 5 = 1/4 26 cm + 1 cm = 7.5 cm.
6. Connect straight points a 1, B 5 and draw an auxiliary perpendicular up and down through B 5.
7. At a right angle to the auxiliary perpendicular, until it intersects with the hip line, set aside the value Шз minus 0.5-1 cm.
B 6 B 7 = 26 cm – 1 cm = 25 cm.
8. Measure segment B 7 B 4 and transfer the resulting value from B 4 to the right.
B 7 B 4 = B 4 B 8.
9. To build step cut connect B 8 to K 5 at the back of the trousers.
Measure the segment K 3 I 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside the found value minus the amount of stretching of the material equal to 0-0.5 cm from K 5 upwards, we get I 4.
K 5 I 4 = K 3 I 3 – 0-0.5 cm.
Form a step cut with a smooth concave line.
10. Connect straight line K 4 with B 7 and extend it upward until it intersects with the waist, we get T 6.
11. Measure the distance from T 6 to K 1 and transfer the resulting value plus 2-3 cm from K 1 up to the intersection with the center line of the back of the jeans, we get T 7.
K 1 T 7 = K 1 T 6 + 2-3 cm.
12. To build the waist, connect T 6 with T 7.
From T 7, put 0-0.5 cm to the left, we get T 8.
Length of the top cut of the back of the jeans: T 8 T 9 = 1/2 ST measurement – 1 cm + 1-1.5 cm (dart solution) = 1/2 38 cm – 1 cm + 1.5 cm = 19.5 cm .
13. In the middle of the segment T 8 T 9, draw a dart 6-8 cm long with a gap of 1-1.5 cm (in our example, 1.5 cm).
14. From T 9, draw a small perpendicular upward and transfer the length and shape of the side cut of the front half, while the side cut of the back half will be above the waist line.
15. Checkout midline through T 8, B 6, I 4.
16. Checkout side cut through T 10, B 7 a smooth convex curve, B 7, K 4 - a smooth concave curve.
Drawing control
It is important to compare the size on the drawing of the trousers in the hip circumference area with the size indicator Lunch + 3-4 cm.
Modeling
1. Draw the contours of the pockets in accordance with the drawing.
2. Draw a yoke on the back half and a patch pocket parallel to the yoke line.
3. Cut off the yoke, align the sides of the dart on it and align the upper and lower cut.
4. Transfer the rest of the dart on the bottom of the back half of the jeans to the side cut.
5. Combine the trouser parts and check the alignment of the lines. The warp thread runs along the front and back folds of the jeans.
They write to us:
« I want to say a huge thank you for the patterns using the generator. I sewed the trousers, I just want to cry with happiness, because the size is 60. Two summer trousers are being cut out. Thanks again to all the employees of this project for their great help... »
Lyudmila Kuptsova
« I’m a big girl, size 58-60, so I was very surprised when the basic pattern The trousers fit perfectly the first time I tried them on. I experienced a real shock. This was a week ago. Now I’m sewing two more pairs from expensive fabric. To say that I am satisfied is not enough! I am endlessly happy! Thank you!.."
Аecc
“...I already used the trouser pattern. I liked using the service: it’s easy, accessible and understandable, and inexpensive. Thank you. I will master other sections as well. And I will definitely recommend it to interested friends. All the best. Further success and development..."
Marina
It's very nice to receive such feedback from you! When you realize that your work is beneficial, you experience incomparable pleasure. On this wave, we decided to go further and publish a lesson on trouser modeling for you. We hope you find it useful. Let's learn how to model such models.
Palazzo Pants Pattern
The first trouser model we will look at is palazzo trousers. Loose and flared from the hips, they resemble a culotte skirt. Very comfortable at any time of the year, in summer - irreplaceable. Made from fine viscose jersey, silk, linen... flow pleasantly along the leg and! what is important is that they hide flaws, if any.
For modeling we will need scissors and glue.
The first step is to lower the perpendiculars to the bottom line of the trousers from the points formed by the intersection of the side seam lines and the hip line, and the end points of the seat seam on both halves of the trousers.
The second step of modeling the pattern of palazzo pants. To achieve the desired flared shape, you need to cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines from the bottom up to the top of the darts on both halves. Having closed part of the dart solution, we open them at the bottom, thus obtaining the required width of the trousers at the bottom.
Let's outline the width of the finishing part, the stripe; its width can be different, according to your wishes, in straight lines along the side seam line, perpendicular to the bottom. Having cut along the intended lines, we combine the parts into one. The dart solution along the side seam can be left in the center of the part, or it can be distributed into the stitching seam to the main parts of the trouser halves.
The upper section of the trousers is finished with a stitched belt. Cut it in a straight line 7 cm wide (without seam allowances), in finished form(folded) 3.5 cm, and length equal to waist circumference. We suggest making the fastener in any seam with a hidden zipper.
Jogger pants pattern
Jogger pants have an undoubted advantage - they are very comfortable. Their loose, but not too much, cut in the hips, slightly low waistline and seat, soft knitted cuffs and elastic at the top, material - all this ensures comfort and ease of style. They should be worn in Everyday life, although made of silk, fabrics with lurex...they can also become an evening wardrobe item. In our photo there is a model of Ralph Lauren jogging trousers, they are made of high quality soft knitwear.
Let's start modeling by checking the increases along the hip line. After you have printed it out, take a measuring tape in your hands and measure both parts of the trousers along the hip line, compare the result with your measurements + increase in looseness of fit. We recommend an increase in OB of 6-8 cm for this model. If the pattern in the hip area does not match your request, it is easy to adjust.
It is necessary to cut the pattern pieces lengthwise in the center and move them apart by the missing amount. See picture.
Next you need A little lower the waist line, along the back - along the middle line by 2 cm, and to the sides by 3.5 cm, in the center of the front half of the trousers by 3.5-4 cm, plus the width of the elastic waistband.
Lower the seat line.
Don't forget to shorten the trouser legs to the width of the elastic cuff.
Cuffs - elastic bands along the bottom of the trousers are cut out in rectangular pieces with a width equal to twice their width in the finished form plus an increase for the sewing seam (1 cm), and a length equal to the circumference of the ankle, plus a small (1.5-3 cm) increase for the freedom of fit, plus an allowance for the seam.
The belt is also cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length of OT + an increase in freedom of fit of 2-3 cm and a seam allowance of a width equal to twice the finished width.
On the outer side in the center of the belt, punch two blocks or sew two loops for threading the cord.
Sew the cuffs and waistband by slightly stretching them, aligning the cuts of the trousers and the processing details.
Pocket. Sew the pocket with an overlay seam, folding the sections inward, and process the cut of the entrance to the pocket into a hem or edge.
Cigarette trouser pattern
The next model we chose for this lesson is elegant and graceful. Cigarette trousers are very popular; they add sexuality and grace to women's legs.
Modeling it is not at all difficult. Having a well-fitting , you can easily cope with this task.
Just narrow the pants and adjust the length. To narrow it, you need to know exactly the desired width of the trousers at the bottom and in the knee area - for control. This can be done simply by removing the parameters from the figure plus an increase in the freedom of fit. The recommended increase in the knee area is 8-12 cm, at the bottom 5-10 cm. The amount depends on the fabric, because you can use fabrics with a high elastane content. Have you decided? Then measure the pattern in these places; modeling may not be needed!
If turned out to be wider (narrower) - let's correct it.
In order not to lose the proportions of the trousers, the excess (missing) value must be corrected with equal segments on each side of the side seam along the bottom and knee line, on both halves of the trousers. See picture.
Finish the top of the trousers with a stitched belt, which is cut out in the form of a rectangle with a length equal to the O measurement plus an allowance for freedom and an allowance for the fastener. The width of the belt is 3 cm when ironed and finished. Cigarette pants zipper will look best in side seam, with a hidden zipper.
We hope you liked our lesson. Good luck!
Thanks for your feedback.
Hello!
In this article we will analyze the construction of the design of classic women's trousers using the calculation and graphic cutting method TsOTSHL.
To draw a trouser pattern using the TsOTSHL method, we will need the following measurements:
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half waist (St) | 28,5 |
Half hip circumference (Sb) | 43,5 |
Seat height (Sun) | |
Front length (chipboard) | 103,5 |
Back length (Dsz) | 105,5 |
Side Length (DSB) | |
Waist Knee Length(Dtk) | 58,5 |
Product length (Di) | |
Width of trousers at the bottom (Wn) (according to model) | 16 (half measure) |
This technique suggests next increases for a loose fit:
In this example, we will use increases for tight-fitting pants.
Let's move on to building the front half of the trousers
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper that is 10-15 cm larger than the length measurement of the product.
Drawing grid
Stepping back from the top edge of the paper 5-10 cm and from the left edge 10-15 cm, draw a vertical segment TN equal to the measurement of the length of the product:
TN = Di,
(segment TN=Di=100cm).
Seat line level: from point T down, set aside the measurement of seat height + CO and mark point I:
TY = Sun + CO,
(ТЯ = 29 + 0 = 29cm).
Hip line level we find by the formula:
YaB = 1/3 x TYA,
we put the resulting value upward from point I and put point B (YB = 29: 3 = 9.7 cm).
Knee line level: down from point T, set aside the measurement Dtk and mark point K:
TK = Dtk
(TK = 58.5 cm).
Now let's draw horizontal lines from each point: T, B, Z, K and N.
Width at hip line
We will find this value using the formula:
BB 1 = 0.5 x (Sat + CO) - k,
k = 1 cm - for small volumes;
Let us plot the resulting value from point B to the right horizontally and place point B 1
(BB 1 = 0.5 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 1 = 21cm).
Through point B 1 we draw a vertical line up and down until it intersects with the horizontal lines from points T and Z; we denote the intersection points as T 1 and Z 1.
Centerline position
To the left of point B 1 we lay off the segment B 1 B0, the value of which is found by the formula:
B 1 B 0 = 0.15 x Sat + 1.5 + 0.25 x CO,
where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the Sb measurement (see table),
(B 1 B 0 = 0.15 x 43.5 + 1.5 + 0.25 x 0.5 = 8.2 cm).
Through point B 0 we draw a vertical line up and down until it intersects with all the horizontal lines; we denote the intersection points as T 0, I 0, K 0 and H 0, respectively.
Step line position
To the right of point B 0 we will set aside a segment equal to the length of the segment BB 0 (we measure the length according to the drawing) and place point B 2 (B 0 B 2 = BB 0 = 12.8 cm).
Width at bottom
We find the width of the front half of the trousers at the bottom using the formula:
0.5 x Shn - k, where
k = 1 cm - for small volumes;
k = 0.5 cm - for trousers of moderate volume;
k = 0 - for voluminous loose trousers.
We will put the resulting value to the right and left of the point H 0 and mark the points H 1 and H 2
(H 1 H 0 = H 0 H 2 = 0.5 x 16 - 1 = 7cm).
Width at knee level
If the width at knee level is known, then its value is laid off on both sides of the point K0. If the width of the trousers at knee level is unknown, then we will determine the width of the front half at this level using graphical constructions:
First, connect points B and H 1 with a straight line. This straight line will intersect the knee line at a point that we will designate K 11.
From this point we will move to the right or left the segment K 11 K 1, the size of which depends on the desired model of trousers:
K 11 K 1 = 1-1.5 cm to the right - for trousers of small and moderate volume along the entire length;
K 11 K 1 = 0-1 cm to the right - for trousers that are loose in the middle, without filling on the side in the knee area;
K 11 K 1 = 0.5-2 cm to the left - for trousers that are loose in the middle, when filled on the outside below hip level.
In our example, we chose a trouser style with a tight fit, so we will set aside 1.5 cm to the right of point K 11 and place point K 1 (be careful and choose the size of the segment necessary for your trouser style).
Let's connect point K 1 with points B and H 1 with straight lines.
Let's measure the length of the segment K 1 K 0 and put this value to the right of the point K 0, we get the point K 2 (K 0 K 2 = K 1 K 0).
Step line
Let's connect point K 2 with straight lines to points B 2 and H 2. In this case, the line K 2 B 2 will intersect the seat line at a point that we will denote I 2.
From the point I 2 we set aside a distance equal to 1/3 of the segment I 2 K 2. From the resulting point to the left, we will set aside a deflection equal to 0.5-1.5 cm - the greater the difference between the width at the level of the hips and the knee, the greater the amount of deflection. Let's connect points I 2 and K 2 with a smooth concave line.
Front waist level
Let's determine the waist level in front using the formula:
T 1 T 10 = Dsb - Dsp,
if the result is positive, we put this value down from point T 1;
if negative - up from point T 1 and mark point T 10
(T 1 T 10 = 106 - 103.5 = 2.5 cm).
For figures with a protruding belly, as well as for trousers with a front dart, it is necessary to construct a deviation of the middle front line from point T 10 to the left horizontally by 0.5-1 cm, mark the resulting point T 11 (T 10 T 11 = 1 cm).
middle line
Let's construct the bisector of the angle with the vertex at point H 1. On this bisector we will construct an auxiliary point M, which is determined by the style of the trousers:
I 1 M = 2.5 cm - for tight trousers;
I 1 M = 3 cm - for loose-fitting trousers.
(In our example we use the value R 1 M = 2.5 cm).
We connect points T 10 (or T 11), B 1, M and Z 2 with a smooth line.
Side line
The position of the side line at waist level depends on the style of the trousers; depending on this, we select the required value, which we put aside to the right of point T; we denote the resulting point as T 2:
TT 2 = 0-1cm - at uniform distribution folds along the entire part from the side to the middle seam;
TT 2 = 1-2 cm - when distributing folds closer to the middle of the part.
Let's connect point T 2 with a straight line to point T 10 (or T 11), and a smooth curved line with point B.
Bottom line
Up from the point Н 0 we will set aside the amount of deflection and set the point Н 10:
H 0 H 10 = 0.5 cm - for wide trousers;
H 0 H 10 = 0.7 cm - for tight trousers.
Let's connect point H 10 with straight lines to points H 1 and H 2.
For checkered, striped and unruly fabrics, when ironing, the hem line is left horizontal.
Total size of darts on the front half
We find the amount of darts in the front half using the formula:
S = T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO) - k,
where CO is the increase in loose fitting to the St measurement (see table), and where k = 0.5-1.5 cm is the fit at the waist.
1) If the total amount of darts in the front half is no more than 3 cm, then we design one dart on the axis line, placing half of the result in each direction along the waist line from the point of intersection with the axis line.
The length of the dart is 8-13cm, where longer lengths are taken for a flat stomach, and smaller lengths for a protruding stomach.
2) If the total amount of darts in the front half is more than 3 cm, then we design the second dart, distributing the result obtained equally across both darts. We design the second dart symmetrically to the axis line at a distance of 3-4 cm from the left side of the first dart. The length of the second dart is also 8-13cm.
For trousers that are voluminous in the upper part, the total amount of darts on the front half is determined by the formula:
S = T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO),
i.e. without taking into account the fit at the waist.
This completes the construction of the front half of the trousers.
Let's move on to building the back half of the trousers
The drawing of the back half of the trousers usually continues to be built on the grid of the drawing of the front half. If it is difficult for you to draw a pattern on top of another, then on a blank sheet of paper you need to re-construct the drawing grid, that is, draw a vertical segment equal to the measurement of the length of the product, draw lines for the waist, hips, seat, knee and bottom and draw a center line along the same the calculations we did for the front half of the trousers.
Now let's do the calculations
Find the width of the back half trousers without step width:
Shzp = (Sb + CO) - BB 1,
where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the Sb measurement (see table)
Шзп = (43.5 + 0.5) - 21 = 23cm.
Total step width for the front and back halves of the trousers we find using the formula:
Step = 0.4 x (Sat + CO) - k,
where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the Sb measurement (see table), and where
k = 1 cm - for trousers of moderate and large volumes along the hips;
k = 2 cm - for trousers of small volumes along the hips.
Step = 0.4 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 2 = 15.6 cm.
Calculate the step width of the rear half at hip level:
Shshaga zp = Shshaga - B 1 B 2,
where B 1 B 2 is the step width of the front half, the value of which will be measured according to the drawing.
Step zp = 15.6 - 4.6 = 11cm.
Step line position
From point B 0 to the right we plot the segment B 0 B 4, the length of which is found by the formula:
B 0 B 4 = (Shzp + Shshaga zp) / 2 + 0.5
(B 0 B 4 = (23 + 11) / 2 + 0.5 = 17.5 cm).
To the left of point B 4, set aside a segment equal to the step width of the rear half and place point B 3:
B 4 B 3 = Shshaga zp,
(B 4 B 3 = 11cm).
Through point B 3 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line; we denote the point of intersection as T 3.
Center line tap
To the left of point T 3 we put aside the segment T 3 T 31, which we find using the formula:
T 3 T 31 = 0.1 x Sat - k, where
k = 1-1.5 cm - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k = 2-3 cm - for voluminous trousers.
(T 3 T 31 = 0.1 x 43.5 - 1 = 3.4 cm).
Let's connect points B 3 and T 31 with a straight line, continuing it both up and down.
On this line upward from point B 3 we will plot the segment B 3 B 31, which determines the balance of the trousers; we will calculate its value using the formula:
B 3 B 31 = 0.05 x Sat - k, where
k = 0 - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k = 0.5-2cm - for voluminous trousers.
(B 3 B 31 = 0.05 x 43.5 - 0 = 2.2 cm).
On the same line upward from point B 31, we will plot the segment B 31 T 32:
B 31 T 32 = B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) + (Dsz - Dsp),
where the value of the segment B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) is taken from the drawing of the front half of the trousers
(B 31 T 32 = 16.8 + (105.5 - 103.5) = 18.8 cm).
Width at hip line
From point B 31 we mark an arc, the radius of which is equal to the width of the back half along the hip line, until it intersects with the continuation of the hip line; Let's denote the intersection point as B 5 (B 31 B 5 = Шзп = 23cm).
Sideline position
From point T 32 we mark an arc with a radius equal to the segment B 31 B 5, until it intersects with the continuation of the waist line; we call the intersection point T 4 (T 32 T 4 = B 31 B 5).
To the right of point T 4 horizontally we will lay down the segment T 4 T 41 - the solution of the side dart, the size of which depends on the style of the trousers:
T 4 T 41 = TT 2 (from the drawing of the front half) - for low-volume trousers;
T 4 T 41 = 3-4 cm - for trousers of moderate and large volumes, where the larger value is for figures with a convex side.
In our example, T 4 T 41 = TT 2 = 1 cm.
Let's connect point T 41 with points B 5 and T 32 with straight lines.
Back dart solution
We find the tuck solution using the formula:
S = T 41 T 32 - 0.5 X (St + CO) - k,
where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the St measurement (see table), and where k = 0.5-1 cm is the fit at the waist.
1) If the size of the back dart opening is less than 5 cm, then we design one dart. We find the position of the rear dart axis using the formula:
T 32 T 5 = 0.4 x B 31 B 5.
Let's put the result obtained along the waist line to the left of point T 32 and place point T 5
(T 32 T 5 = 0.4 x 23 = 9.2).
The axis of the back dart is located perpendicular to the waist line, so we will build a perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41 at point T 5. From point T 5 to the right and left along the waist line, we will set aside half of the back dart solution. The dart length is 9-13cm.
2) If the size of the back dart opening is more than 5 cm, then first, in exactly the same way, we design a dart with a 5 cm opening, and by the remaining amount we increase the outlet of the middle back line along the waist. That is, we put the remaining value along the waist line to the left of point T 32.
We connect the resulting point with a straight line to point B 31.
3) If the size of the dart opening turns out to be significantly more than 5 cm, then we increase the offset of the middle back line to 2 cm, and distribute the rest equally into two darts. We find the position of the first dart using the same formula:
T 32 T 5 = 0.4 x B 31 B 5;
We place the second dart 3-4 cm from the left side of the first dart. We draw the axes of both darts perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41; dart lengths - 9-13cm.
Width at bottom
Find the width of the rear half below using the formula:
0.5 x W + 0.2 cm,
we will put the resulting value on both sides of the point H 0 and put the points H 3 and H 4
(H 0 H 3 = H 0 H 4 = 0.5 x 16 + 0.2 = 8.2 cm).
Width at knee level
Let's calculate the width of the back half at knee level using the formula:
K 3 K 0 = K 0 K 4 = K 1 K 0 + k,
where K 1 K 0 - we take it from the drawing of the front half, and where
k = 2cm - for straight, slightly tapered trousers;
k = 2.5 cm - for trousers that are very tapered at the bottom.
Let's put the resulting result on both sides of the point K 0 and mark the points K 3 and K 4.
Side line
Let's draw a side line connecting points T 41, B 5, K 3 and H 3. From the waist line to the hip line, we draw the side line with a smooth convex line. Side line the rear half must be leveled along the lateral line of the front half:
T 41 B 5 K 3 N 3 = T 2 BK 1 N 1.
Step line
Let's connect point K 4 with straight lines to points B 4 and H 4. In this case, the segment B 4 K 4 will intersect the seat line at a point that we will designate I 4.
middle line
To the left of point I 41 we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with straight line B 3 T 32; we denote the intersection point as I 3.
Let's construct the bisector of the angle with the vertex at the point R 3 and on this bisector we plot the segment R 3 M 1, the length of which depends on the style of the trousers:
I 3 M 1 = 1.5 cm - for trousers with a slight increase in seat depth;
I 3 M 1 = 2.5 cm - for trousers with a deeper seat line.
(In our example, I 3 M 1 = 1.5 cm).
Let's form the middle line as a smooth straight line, connecting points T 32, B 31, M 1 and I 41.
