ELLE has compiled a short cheat sheet on the history of fashion from the 1910s to the 1990s
There is no designer who has never quoted his predecessors. Transfer the well-forgotten old to new way- a favorite technique of Jeremy Scott, Karl Lagerfeld, and Nicolas Ghesquière. In order to guess the couturier's allusions at one glance at the silhouette and cut, it is worth understanding the history of fashion of the last century. ELLE has compiled a short “cheat sheet” on fashion eras, which will not allow you to make mistakes.
Belle Epoque (translated from French as “beautiful era”) with its characteristic hourglass silhouette is being replaced by Art Deco. The new canon of beauty is the natural, unconstrained forms of the female body. Europe dresses up in exotic outfits, inspired by the ballet “Scheherazade”, presented by Diaghilev as part of the “Russian Seasons” in Paris.
Fashion designer: Paul Poiret is a fashion reformer; it was he who freed women from corsets and bustles, offering loose tunic dresses in the ancient Greek style, as well as capes, montos and trousers inspired by the East. Poiret introduced exoticism and orientalism into fashion, cultivating luxury and abundance in clothing: expensive fabrics and a lot of decor are signs of his creations.
Styles: high-waisted dress, tapered skirt, trouser skirt, bloomers, kimono cape, sari dress, turban, pouch bag.
Fabrics and decor: brocade, silk, velvet, taffeta, oriental ornaments, embroidery with gold threads, gems, batik.
Style icons: Isadora Duncan made Poiret's loose tunic dress famous throughout the world by appearing on stage in a translucent outfit - unheard of audacity. Another fashion icon of the era - Ida Rubinstein, star of the ballet "Scheherazade" - did not leave the image oriental beauty and off stage, choosing silk kimonos for every day.
An emancipated woman drives a car, writes novels, smokes, and famously dances the Charleston in a comfortable straight dress with a low waist - a symbol of the era. The modest elegance of Coco Chanel juxtaposes with the excesses of the Jazz Age: feathers, boas and fringe. The garcon style (translated from French as “boy”) coexisted with Art Deco, which was still popular.
Fashion designer: Coco Chanel dressed women in men's clothes and proved that small black dress, complemented by a string of pearls, – evening option no worse than a beaded outfit. Jeanne Lanvin was responsible for a more feminine fashion direction.
Styles: a cylindrical dress, a fur moncot, a jacket, a cardigan, loose canvas trousers, a pajama suit for the beach, a cloche hat, headbands and hair bands with abundant decoration.
Fabrics and decor: lace, silk, velvet, wool, boucle, jersey; basic colors – black, white, gray, cream, beige; jewelry made of pearls, a minimum of decor - from Chanel, a maximum - from the rest (embroidery, feathers, bows, bugles).
Style icons: Silent film actress and dancer Louise Brooks became famous not only for her freedom of morals, but also for her love of cloche hats. Tennis player Suzanne Lenglet introduced the fashion for women's sportswear.
The new era decisively abandons the androgynous style of dress, which hides sensual curves. Fashion designers are proclaiming a different silhouette - an emphasized waist, from which flows long skirt. Following the athletes, girls are starting to wear knitwear. The luxurious decor of the previous decade is forgotten - the Great Depression and the feeling of an imminent war set a completely different mood.
Fashion designer: Elsa Schiaparelli designs a sweater dress, a printed jumper, and uses viscose and a zipper for the first time. She is the first provocateur and fashion surrealist. Just look at a dress with lobster and parsley or a hat in the shape of a shoe!
Styles: floor-length dress with an accentuated waistline, sweater dress, jumper, tennis pleated skirts, polo dresses, sweatpants, elbow-length silk gloves, trains, first swimsuits.
Fabrics and decor: tulle, silk, velvet, wool, knitwear; noble rich and pastel colors - dark blue, burgundy, pearl; lace trim.
Style icons: Women of cold beauty, Hollywood stars - Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, beckoning from the screens with perfection and sophistication.
The war begins, and the girls are forced to give up their luxurious, elaborate outfits. Military-style clothing appears - women's clothes made from the same fabrics as military uniforms. While fashion in Europe is constrained by the restrictions of World War II, the United States is creating its own “haute couture.”
Fashion designer: The main “trend setter” of the decade is the shortage of fabrics, buttons, and decorative elements. It is he who determines innovations in the women's wardrobe: he shortens the length of the skirt, prohibits lush frills due to the high consumption of fabric, deprives stockings and stilettos, and girls have to wear hats and scarves to hide untidy hair.
Styles: fitted jacket with padded shoulders, double breasted coat, pencil skirt, blouse with puff sleeves, shirt-cut dress with an emphasis on the waist, dress in nautical style, hat with veil, belt, brooches, beads.
Fabrics: dark green, khaki, brown, gray, dark gray, black, blue, white, light yellow, red; wool, cotton, flannel; check, polka dot print.
Style icons: America's sex symbol, Hollywood actress Rita Hayworth and pin-up models Betty Grable and Bettie Page. American soldiers loved the images of beauties so much that they even repeated them on airplanes.
Paris regains its title as fashion capital. New look - a new look for a woman, proposed by Christian Dior, is gaining popularity. During the war years, everyone was too tired of hardships! Girls strive to look as feminine as possible and spend a lot of time and money on toilets.
Fashion designers: Christian Dior generously spends meters of fabric on one full skirt With high waist(outrageous and delightful luxury!) and again pulls women into corsets. Cristobal Balenciaga takes a different path and prefers a straight silhouette and architectural experiments with it to Dior’s “buds” and “hourglass”. Coco Chanel returns to the world of fashion and presents a tweed jacket with a skirt, and Hubert Givenchy creates elegant, aristocratic outfits for his muse Audrey Hepburn.
Styles: floor-length bustier dress, flared pleated skirt, short narrow-waisted jacket, A-line coat with three-quarter sleeves, gloves, small hat, clutch bag, pointed shoes, pearls, necklaces.
Fabrics and decor: velor, flannel, wool, silk, satin, suede; embroidered flowers, lace, small floral pattern, horizontal stripes.
Style icons: From the screens, fashion is dictated by Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn, demonstrating the latest models of the most popular designers.
Freedom of morals is the fashionable anthem of the era! A miniskirt, jeans, a trouser suit, A-line dresses and A-line coats appear in the women's wardrobe. Fashion designers, following modern artists, are experimenting with all their might and creating clothes from vinyl and synthetic materials.
Fashion designers: English designer Mary Quant gave the world the miniskirt. Andre Courrèges and Yves Saint Laurent almost simultaneously presented a short a-line dress, which became an absolute hit. In addition to Haute Couture, couturiers are beginning to create ready-to-wear collections.
Styles: miniskirt, high-waisted trousers, jeans, a-line dress, round-neck coat, peasant-style shirt, sundress, knee-high boots, long-strap bag, wide-brimmed hats.
Fabrics and decor: cotton, denim, knitwear, wool, viscose, stripes, checks, polka dots, small patterns; strings, bows, collars, lace trim.
Style icons: Brigitte Bardot made the sensual look ultra-fashionable: her tousled hairstyle and bright black wings were copied everywhere. Jacqueline Kennedy reconciled trends and timeless classics in her stylish looks and has served as a model of elegance for thousands of women from all over the world.
The denim boom is sweeping the world: blue and dark blue, torn and distressed denim are at the peak of popularity. Following the growing hippie movement, couturiers are turning to folklore and ethnicity. The unisex style is gaining ground - men and women dress in the same, simple and comfortable things. Current music dictates its own dress code - this is how the disco style arises. Shocking punk - the style of rebellious youth - was adopted by Vivienne Westwood. New fashion centers are emerging - for example, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace and the Missoni family presented their collections at the first Milan Fashion Week.
Fashion designer: Yves Saint Laurent gave fashion a women's tuxedo, a transparent blouse, safari style, abstract prints, African motifs and much more. “A Japanese in Paris” Kenzo Takada acted as an apologist for Asian sensuality and street style. Sonia Rykiel made a sweater dress made of fine knitwear her calling card, and Oscar de la Renta opened a signature brand in New York.
Styles: turtlenecks, shirts, jeans, flared trousers, sundresses, knitted sweaters, cardigans, hats, ponchos, canvas bags, baubles, overalls.
Fashion designer: Karl Lagerfeld becomes Chanel's creative director in 1983 and launches the house's first ready-to-wear line. Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo are declaring themselves a completely new direction in fashion - deconstructivism, which transforms and breaks the usual silhouettes of clothing.
Styles: classic trousers with creases, jackets and tuxedos with padded shoulders, sheath dresses, dresses and sweaters with batwing sleeves, leather jackets and raincoats, leggings, bustier tops, mini and midi leather, platform shoes, over the knee boots.
Fabrics and decor: leather, mohair, velor, corduroy, suede, silk, satin, viscose; rich and neon shades, animal prints, vertical stripes.
Style icons: Grace Jones, who did not cheat on her boyhood short haircut and leather outfits. Madonna and her aggressively sexual image.
Fashion designers: Marc Jacobs shows a grunge collection at Fashion Week on behalf of the Perry Ellis brand. John Galliano shocks critics with his theatrical shows. Calvin Klein is bringing androgyny back into fashion.
Styles: T-shirts, pullovers, denim jackets, low-waisted jeans, denim skirts, sundresses with thin straps, hoodies and sweatshirts, sneakers and sneakers, rough boots.
Fabrics and decor: cotton, denim, leather, flannel, viscose, chiffon, all colors, prints with logos and names of famous companies.
Style icons: Supermodels Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss, who became not just faces of the era, but role models for millions.
Do you want to make your image bright and memorable? Then these tips are for you! Adopt them and you will look great in any situation.
You will learn how to properly handle clothes, which ones to choose and how to buy certain things correctly from our guide to fashion and style. With these tips you will change your image and become more attractive and interesting.
- Throw away everything old.
It's worth starting with this. To make room for something new, you need to get rid of the old - this rule applies not only within the wardrobe, but also in relation to life in general. - Are you planning to buy an outfit for important event? Approach the issue with all seriousness.
To make shopping for a dress for a wedding or party go as smoothly as possible, wear the shoes and underwear you plan to wear that day to the store, as well as do the same makeup and hairstyle. This way you can make sure everything looks perfect.
- Extend the life of cashmere.
To make cashmere last longer, try to buy more quality clothes from this material. Also, such products should be washed by hand in cold water.
- Stretch new shoes without pain.
To stretch shoes that chafe, fill freezer bags with water and stuff them into your shoes. Then put the shoes in the freezer overnight.
- Don't have time to dress up? Tie a bow tie!
It looks very impressive, and you can make a butterfly out of anything. This is a quick and easy way to look more stylish and original.
- Buy outerwear wisely.
When you buy a jacket, coat or blazer, it is very important that the item fits perfectly at the shoulders. After all, this is the only thing that cannot be corrected in this kind of clothing.
- Rule of open areas of the body.
Expose one area of your body at a time. This could be the legs, back, arms or décolleté. But not all at once. Otherwise, you risk looking vulgar or inappropriate.
- 8. Treat yourself like a queen.
Love yourself and take care of your health. Allow yourself to get enough sleep and rest when necessary. The better you treat yourself and the more you take care of yourself, the more beautiful you will look.
- Make your clothes work for you.
Try to choose clothes that present you in the best possible light. It is enough to know a few basic rules about which styles and colors are suitable for this or that type of figure, and use them to your advantage.
- Problems with jeans?
Without a pair of jeans, no wardrobe can be considered complete. If at the time of purchase you are in doubt about which size to choose, take the smaller one, since after several washes all jeans stretch.
- Say no to makeup and deodorant stains.
If you find such a stain on your clothes, try to remove it with warm water and detergent. Also, many stains of this kind can be wiped off with ordinary damp wipes.
- Be bold with accessories.
The right accessories will add personality to your look. If your clothes are in calm shades, be sure to add bright accessory. Another easy way to make clothes more interesting is to alter the buttons.
- Scarves are always a good idea!
A scarf is one of the most important accessories. There are many colors, sizes and materials, so you can definitely choose the one you like. Even the simplest outfit with a scarf becomes more stylish.
- Dress comfortably to party all night long.
If you want to have fun, be sure that your clothes don't require you to think about them every couple of minutes.
- What to do if your budget is limited...
Make a list of what you need. Look for discounts and great deals on these items. Don't buy clothes just because they're on sale. You'll probably just be throwing money away. Also try to choose quality over quantity.
- Critically evaluate the item before you buy it.
When you buy clothes, take your time and carefully consider them from all sides. Listen to your feelings. If you feel at your best in this thing, then this is exactly how you will look in it.
- Be open to new things.
Are there dresses, blouses and sweaters of the same cut hanging in your closet? You shouldn't be afraid to try something new. Do you doubt that this dress will suit you? Be sure to try it on.
- Make friends with belts.
A properly selected belt will not only help make your waist look thinner, but will also become a striking accessory.
- Have you ever worn men's clothes?
The suit is a very comfortable thing. You will feel great in it and will be able to give the impression of a strong personality. Only under one condition - it must fit perfectly.
- Take a spare set of clothes with you, just in case.
Unpleasant moments happen to each of us sometimes. Spilled coffee on your blouse right before a meeting? A stain can make you feel out of place when you should be shining.Therefore, at important moments it is better to have something in reserve. You can leave a set of clothes in the office just in case. For example, a white button-down shirt can fit into any style of clothing.
- Contact a seamstress.
Custom-made clothes often look better than store-bought ones because they fit perfectly. Meet a good seamstress and consult with her about what is best to sew or alter from what you have. Together you will come to many bright solutions.
- Bags for all occasions.
Bag - business card every woman. There should be several of them different types outfits
- Know how to deal with your things.
Learn to pack your clothes compactly in one suitcase or travel bag. To keep your clothes clean and fresh, place them in freezer bags.
- Learn to sew.
Knowing how to sew a little is very useful and simply necessary. This skill will come in handy everywhere - from torn buttons and children's costumes for matinees to the fact that you can create original things with your own hands.
- Take care of your things.
Buy a quality iron and a good washing powder. Also, be sure to look at the sewn-in labels, which tell you how to care for which item.
Armed with these basic rules, you can develop your own unique style in clothes that will help you feel irresistible in any situation. Save these tips so you don’t forget anything!
Finally, the weather outside is pleasantly warm, which means it’s time to change your shoes. However, you shouldn’t rush into shopping, because not all models can decorate your feet in the spring. We have compiled a list of 5 options that you should avoid in stores. They will ruin the beauty of your feet!
#1: Overloaded with decor
Apparently, modern fashion has decided to take a little break, and the proof of this is minimalism as one of the main trends of recent seasons. Shoes were not spared this either.
Models overloaded with details in the form of appliqués and rhinestones are a thing of the past. And we are glad, because they mercilessly spoiled women’s legs, weighing them down and drawing attention to all the shortcomings (if any).
No. 2: “Ultra feminine” models
Many girls, when creating romantic images, often go too far, deciding to enhance the effect with openwork shoes. In most cases, these are boots with a lace top layer, all kinds of ruffles and perforations.
However, few of them think that such a “zest” will forgive the image, and sometimes make it provincial. And there is no way to emphasize the beauty of the legs with their help.
#3: Transparent shoes
Some time ago, brands began to include transparent shoes and boots made of plastic in their collections. The trendsetter in this case was Kim Kardashian. Her daring images captivated millions of girls around the world, and they began to rush to buy similar ones.
And it would seem that they are good for everyone: they are both fashionable and a perfect pedicure can be demonstrated. But it turned out that in ordinary life they are not so practical. Depending on the thickness of the shoe, the foot can be visually distorted, and in warm weather, condensation can be created, which will kill all the “coolness” of the image outright.
No. 4: Semi-sports ballet shoes
Perhaps the creators of this variation of everyone's favorite ballet shoes acted from noble intentions, but the situation clearly got out of control. A shoe style that is a mixture of sports and classic style, simply doomed to failure.
Just remember the platform or heeled sneakers that caused a stir 10 years ago. As for semi-sports ballet shoes, all their advantages end with convenience. They weigh down your legs, make them visually shorter, and make any image awkward.
No. 5: Low shoes
Spring weather does not always please us with warm days, so ankle-high “short shoes” appear in girls’ wardrobes. However, in this pursuit of two birds with one stone (at the same time “it’s still warm” and “it’s not hot anymore”), women forget about how these shoes affect appearance their legs.
The main disadvantage is that they “cut” your legs making them much shorter. In addition, a volume, albeit insignificant, is created around the ankle, which makes this area wider than it actually is.
Don’t try to surprise everyone around you with original shoes or boots, but rather rely on time-tested classics. We guarantee you that it will be an excellent investment not only in your wardrobe in general, but also in the beauty of your legs in particular.
How does Alena Kashina, who lost 100 kg and had plastic surgery, live?
The most people come to Andrei Malakhov’s program “Let Them Talk” different people With amazing stories. Many of them are tragic, hopeless and touching to tears. But the story of Alena Kashina from Izhevsk has a happy and inspiring ending. Weighing 180 kg at the age of 28, the girl managed to lose as much as 100 kg and started new life. How did she manage to achieve such impressive results and what is she doing today?
Lack of attention is the cause of overeating
On the TV show, Alena said that since childhood she had a tendency to be overweight. Her parents did not monitor her diet and allowed the girl to eat whatever she wanted, in any quantity. After all, mothers and grandmothers are usually only happy if the child has a good appetite, and when they realize it, it’s too late - doctors diagnose juvenile obesity and a number of functional disorders internal organs.
This is exactly what happened to our heroine. She herself claims that the reason for overeating is the lack of attention, affection and warmth from the mother. Since childhood, the girl was left to her own devices, felt abandoned and unnecessary, so she consumed her stress with everything that came to hand.
This is what Alena’s standard snack looked like before Psychologists say that this is possible. Many women, when they feel lonely and unnecessary (during conflicts with loved ones, stress at work, after breaking up with a loved one) begin to console themselves and “reward” themselves with delicious food. “Can’t I at least afford this?!” - this is how they motivate eating a pan of pasta with meat, half a cake and a bucket of ice cream in one sitting.
But! You should not look for excuses for your weaknesses in others. The decision is always made by the person himself. And if he was able to take a step in one direction, he can take it in the other. Alena needed a push and support from the outside. It was for them that she turned to Andrei Malakhov’s program.
Your own body is like a prison
By the age of 28, Alena had become a prisoner of her own swollen body. With a height of 160 cm, she weighed about 180 kg. With such dimensions, the girl could hardly walk, climbing stairs turned into hard labor, taking a shower became a real challenge. Alena could hardly put on her underwear and fasten her shoes on her own.
But in fact, the pretty and intelligent young woman also wanted to meet her hero, start a family, and give birth to a child. But about nothing personal life, as well as a career, there could be no talk: with such weight, no one looked at Alena and did not invite her to a prestigious job.
With such dimensions, Alena had difficulty coping with everyday activities: showering, getting dressed, going to the store She voluntarily locked herself within four walls and went out only when absolutely necessary. Her consolation was sausage sandwiches, sweet buns and cream pies - she ate plates of them. I realized that I was harming myself even more, but I couldn’t stop.
Diet, physical training and surgery - only an integrated approach helped
Immediately after the TV show, nutritionists and a fitness instructor began working with Alena. Alena said that she tried several times to lose weight on her own, but failed every time.
The maximum she managed to achieve was 20 kg. And then the weight came back again.
This trend is typical for people with an extremely high body mass index. Diet and exercise alone are not enough - you need surgery to bypass the overstretched stomach. The girl was promised to undergo it, but only after she had lost at least 20 kg. For Alena this was a powerful motivation! After all, she would never be able to pay for the expensive operation on her own.
Under the supervision of a nutritionist and gastroenterologist, Alena began to lose weight. First up to 160 kg, then more. After 2 years she appeared in the studio again. And the audience did not recognize the former fat woman with a sad look in the perky, slender beauty.
Two years later, a completely new guy appeared in the studio. new person How it happened - expert report
If you are interested in the details of Alena Kashina’s weight loss: at first she was switched to fractional low-calorie meals. She also worked out daily on an exercise bike, uphill walking, and received strength training - all under the constant supervision of instructors.
In June, when the girl’s weight dropped to 140 kg, they began to prepare her for gastric bypass surgery. The operation has a number of contraindications, so a month was first spent on a complete examination of the complex patient. In July, the operation was performed: doctors divided the distended stomach into two sections and removed part of the intestine from the digestive tract.
After the operation, Alena lost almost 30 kg in three months. During the rehabilitation period, the girl ate like a baby - everything boiled and unleavened. pureed. She continued to exercise on the track and walk, then began visiting the pool.
20 months after the start of the fight against excess weight, Alena weighed a little more than 80 kg. She was not going to stop and announced on the re-transmission that her plans were to weigh 56 kg. She continues to lose weight little by little - about 500 grams per day - adheres to fractional meals and does not stop playing sports.
Fantastic transformation - this is what Alena looked like 20 months after the first program So what now?
Today Alena Kashina is already 34. She is not yet married, but notes that men pay attention to her. The young woman made new hairstyle, wears fashionable clothes, which was previously inaccessible to her, and enjoys visiting Gym.
And Alena and the specialists who helped her get rid of 100 kg excess weight(!), are deservedly proud of their achievements. And it's true incredible story. It is not about how useful it is to exercise, eat right, or how advanced medicine is today.
It is about the personal heroism of a simple girl who managed to overcome weakness and lack of will and start a new life at the cost of titanic efforts, pain and tears. And also about caring people who did not turn away and helped those in need regain the joy of life and health. It is about patience, faith and fortitude.
This is what Alena looks like now - and she’s not going to stop This style of the 16th-17th centuries is named from the Italian barocco - bizarre, strange. Dutch sailors also used this word to call rejected pearls. It is not surprising that for a long time the word “Baroque” was negative, and only in the 19th century did attitudes towards it change.
Michelangelo is considered the creator of the Baroque style. It was he who became the author of the most important baroque element - the plasticity of the wall. And his followers took the path of complication, depriving the walls of visual reliability and monumentality due to plasticity and dynamics. This is how buildings appeared with convex, concave or even curved facades, richly decorated with bas-reliefs, sculptures, vases, and cartouches. And the interiors have turned into a real whim: rounded corners, an abundance of mirrors, gilded stucco moldings, ceiling paintings using the effect of “flowing” of space into “sky-high heights.”
In general, the Baroque style emphasized power and prosperity, and strived for grandeur and pomp. This is ostentatious, sometimes even exaggerated luxury.
A separate era in Russian architecture is the Naryshkin Baroque. This style was popular in the Moscow region from the 1680s to the 1710s. It owes its name to the boyar family of the Naryshkins, on whose lands in Fili, Kuntsevo, Sviblovo, Troitse-Lykovo these bizarre buildings first appeared. They are well recognizable by their combination of traditional old Russian design, elegant flowers and abundant, often white stone, decoration. This is due to the fact that the decree of Patriarch Nikon unified the forms of churches, leaving freedom of creativity only in decoration.
| Character traits Baroque buildings: | spaciousness, fluidity of complex curvilinear forms, rich stucco decoration, large-scale colonnades, abundance of sculptures; characteristic details - atlas, caryatid, mascaron, volutes. |
| Predominant colors of Baroque buildings: | pastel colors, red, pink, white, blue with a yellow accent, a combination of white and gold. |
| Lines of Baroque buildings: | convex-concave asymmetrical pattern, use of semicircles, rectangles, ovals; vertical lines of columns, pronounced division of the facade. |
| Form and design of Baroque buildings: | broken facades with many towers, balconies, bay windows, decorative columns. |
| Characteristic elements of the interior of Baroque buildings: | massive grand staircases, columns, pilasters, bas-reliefs, stucco moldings; painting is one of the main dominant features; the furniture is a real piece of art, and its pretentiousness and richness seemed to be intended only for interior decoration, and were not of a utilitarian nature. |
| Windows of Baroque buildings: | semi-circular and rectangular with magnificently decorated platbands; large keystones or pediments above the windows; bull's eye windows (oval shaped); French windows (starting from the floor, so-called “window-doors”). |
| Baroque building doors: | arched openings with columns. |
| Roofs of Baroque buildings: | hip or flat roofs with parapets; mansard roofs (double slope: the upper one is flat and the lower one is steep), which increase the useful volume of the building; oval domes. |
