You can start modeling. And one of the main modeling techniques is the transfer (translation) of the chest dart. Next I will describe 7 examples translation of the tuck, read.

Initially, the shelf looks like in this picture. The chest dart is located from the center of the chest to the shoulder seam. We will only model the shelf. Next to the shelf you see a dress. This is exactly the kind of dress you will get if you leave the chest dart as is.

The pattern can be cut out from the constructed drawing, or a copy can be made. It’s better to make a copy and leave the drawing, it will come in handy later.

To make a copy of the pattern, you will need to transfer all the contours using a cutter, carbon paper or tracing paper onto paper. We translate the contours exactly along the lines. We translate everything that is in the drawing: structural horizontal and vertical lines, darts.

If you don’t want to bother with sheets and cutters, I invite you to take a course, we’ll model on a computer and save your time. In the program, we copy the file with the base pattern with one click and begin modeling. Parametric patterns with translated darts are suitable for cutting any shoulder item: dress, jacket, coat... And they can also be used for further more complex modeling.

Modeling

• So, we transferred the pattern for the base of the front (front half) with the chest shoulder dart from the drawing to another sheet.
• Next we draw new line position of the dart and connect it to point G7. Point G7 is the base of the chest dart.
• We cut the dart along a new line, while closing the opening of the chest dart from the shoulder and matching its sides.
• We got a new tuck, in a different direction.

This principle works in all examples of tuck translation.

Options for transferring a chest dart

1. Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line

From point G7 to any point on the armhole we will draw a new dart line. In the figure, this line is marked in red. Then we cut the pattern along the intended line, not reaching the G7 point 1-2 mm. And we will open a new dart, while closing the previous dart, which was from the shoulder seam. Thus, we got a new dart coming from the armhole line.

2. Transferring the chest dart to the side seam line

In this example, we draw a new dart line from point G7 to the side cut. This point is also chosen arbitrarily, approximately 3 - 10 cm from the armhole line. And we cut this line in the same way. We open a new dart, while closing the dart from the shoulder seam.

3. Transferring the dart to the side seam at the waist line

Similarly, we transfer the dart to the side seam at the level of the waist line. In this example, the point is located at the intersection of the waist line with the side seam. In the drawing this is point T4. We connect point T4 with Point G7 and cut the pattern along this line. We open the chest dart in a new place, while closing it at the shoulder seam.

4. Transferring the bust dart to the hemline

In this example, we lower the vertical from point G7 to the bottom line. And cut the pattern along this line. In this example, we also cut out the waist dart on the paper pattern. You can cut it in advance or after we cut the vertical from point G7. We also cut out this dart on the fabric. The main thing is not to forget about the seam allowance!

In this example of transferring a chest dart, we seem to combine two darts: waist and chest. If the dart is not sewn down, we will get an a-line dress. But then the back also needs to be made in the form of a trapezoid.

5. Transferring the chest dart to the neckline

In this example, we connect point G7 to an arbitrary point on the neckline. We cut the pattern along this line, not reaching the G7 point 1-2 mm. We open the new dart, while closing the dart from the shoulder line. Instead of a dart in this example, you can make gathers or put pleats along the neckline.

6. Transfer of the chest dart to the point of intersection of the neck line and the middle of the front

An example similar to the previous one. Only we take a point on the neckline not arbitrarily, but at the intersection with the middle of the shelf. In the drawing of the base pattern this is point A5.

We connect A5 with G7 and cut it 1-2 mm short of the G7 point. We push the lines of the new dart apart, while closing the dart from the shoulder seam.

7. Moving the chest dart to the middle front

And the last option is a dart from the middle of the shelf. This option can be with a seam from the neckline to the dart line or with a seam from the neckline to the bottom.

We do everything similarly to the previous examples. We connect point G7 with an arbitrary point on the line of the middle of the shelf. In this example, the dart line is horizontal. But it can be located at any inclination (angle) to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Here are examples of the translation of a chest dart.

Do you understand the principle?

If you have any questions, ask in the comments or at. I will be happy to answer.

Using these techniques, we can create patterns for any clothing model you like. If you liked this lesson, subscribe to new blog articles; we will model a bodice with yokes, raised seams, undercuts, draperies, etc.

© Olga Marizina

Based basic pattern, you can create different models shoulder products,through simulation. And I will show you one of the modeling techniques - transferring a chest dart - in this article.

The pattern can be cut from the constructed drawing, but I recommend making patterns. And the drawing will still be needed for many other models, we are not going to stop there!

To make a pattern, we will need to transfer all the contours using a cutter, carbon paper or tracing paper onto paper.

We translate the contours exactly along the lines. We translate everything that is in the drawing: structural horizontal and vertical lines, darts.

The patterns are ready, you can start modeling.

Today I'll show you six ways to move a dart from its original position to a new position. Why do we need this? In order to create a new product dictated by fashion.

Modeling

• After we have transferred the pattern of the base of the bodice front with the chest shoulder dart from the drawing to another sheet, we mark the top of the dart with point A.
• Draw a new line for the position of the dart and connect it to point A.
• We cut the dart along a new line, while closing the opening of the chest dart, aligning its sides.
• We got a new tuck, in a different direction.

Options for transferring a chest dart

1. Transfer of the shoulder dart to the armhole line

From point A to the armhole we will draw a new dart line. It is marked in red in the figure. Then we cut the pattern along the intended line (you may not need to cut 2-3 mm) and close the opening of the chest dart from the shoulder seam. Thus, we got a new dart coming from the armhole line.

2. Transferring the shoulder dart to the side cut

In this case, we draw a new dart line from point A to the side cut. We cut it in the same way, closing the chest dart from the shoulder seam.

Similarly, we transfer the dart to the side seam at the level of the waist line, to the waist line itself, to the middle of the front, to the neckline.

3. Transfer the shoulder dart to the side seam at the waist line

4. Transferring the shoulder dart to the waistline

You will notice that the new dart line is almost identical to the waistline side of the original dart. In this case of transferring the chest dart from the shoulder seam, we seem to combine two darts.

5. Moving the shoulder dart to the middle front

6. Transferring the shoulder dart to the neckline

Using modeling techniques, we can create patterns for any clothing model you like.

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Transfer of chest dart

Hello, my dear blog readers! Now we will look at several ways translation of the chest dart, because you will probably want to hide this large dart on the base pattern of the dress “from view.” If you have not yet made a base pattern for yourself, follow the link (there you will find step by step process pattern making - basics for beginners).

Methods for converting a chest dart will open up an incredible variety of models for you. That is, you can feel like a fashion designer and come up with a dress for yourself.

The tuck can be transferred in several directions: to the side seam, to the armhole, to the neckline, to the yoke, to the drapery. And this will result in a huge variety of models. The main rule is that the center of the dart is always directed towards the center of the chest. (Tsg, see more details here (“how to take measurements correctly”)).

To begin, transfer onto tracing paper the part of the pattern on which you will transfer the dart (the front or back of the bodice).

• to achieve smooth lines, the dart should not reach the center of the chest (in my drawing this is point G6) by 2 cm (if its ends look UP), and by 3-4 cm (if its ends look DOWN). Then the fabric will not become a cone on the chest.

Transferring the dart to the side seam

This is the most common way to transfer a dart. You choose for yourself - at what distance from the armhole will the dart be located? It can lie horizontally, or it can be lowered slightly (set aside 3-6 cm from the bottom of the armhole on the side, and connect this point to the point of the center of the chest).

The ends of the dart look down, so from the center of the chest we shorten the dart by 3-4 cm. Cut along this line and close the dart at the top.

Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line

Most often, point P6 is used to transfer to the armhole line with basic pattern drawing.

The ends of the dart point upward, so we shorten the length of the dart by 2 cm.

Transferring the chest dart to the shoulder line

Select any point on the shoulder line for the new direction of the dart. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

This way the dart will also remain on the shoulder, only its direction will change slightly.

You can convert the dart into two soft folds. (as in the picture below)

Transferring the chest dart to the neckline

Mark the transfer line to the side of the neck. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

Transferring the bust dart to the center line

Do not forget to reduce the length of the dart by 3 cm. (The photo also shows the transfer of the dart to the center)

Transferring the bust dart to the waist line

Design the sides of the dart taking into account the convexity of the chest. Lower the corner of the groove by 3 cm.

Relief - another version of the chest dart

The relief is the line that combines the chest and waist darts.

The relief can be from the shoulder line, from the armhole, from the neckline, from the center.

In tight-fitting silhouettes (read about silhouettes and body types here), the relief is located on the most convex points of the chest and shoulder blades.

Relief from the armhole

Relief from the armhole

Shoulder relief

Relief from the neck

First we move the chest dart to the center. And then we close the center dart, and it will open near the relief.

Front part with a fold (how to cut it out)

Remember, when constructing the drawing of the front of the pattern-basis of the dress, we made a fit in the chest area (half-skid). So: in order for us to cut out the front part of the bodice with a fold, we need to ensure that the front fold line is vertical and straight. And the half-skid creates curvature on the future fold line (see drawing below, the place of the half-skid is marked in pink)

Therefore, in order to make the fold line straight, we move the selected segment (in white in the figure below), forming a straight fold line in the center of the front part. This will increase the chest dart slightly. The white sector will lie on the drawing with a slight overlap below the center line of the chest (this is how it should be).

All! This way you will get a bodice detail with a fold in the center, which is convenient when converting the chest dart into relief.

Interesting options for transferring a chest dart

I bring to your attention various additional options for transferring a breast dart, maybe they will inspire you to create a BEAUTIFUL one!

This is where I will end this long review of the bust dart translation! I hope you can choose the option that suits you and inspires you! I wish you good luck and sew with me! See you soon on the blog pages!

Dart transfer method

A tuck is a constructive technique with the help of which a three-dimensional shape of a product is achieved and a uniform fit of a flat material of a complex body configuration is achieved. The main structural darts on the product correspond to certain convex areas of the figure. The upper dart of the shelf reveals the volume of the mammary gland and is located from the edge of the part towards the protruding point of the chest (determined on the pattern by the measurements Cg and Bg). The dart from the waist up on the front pattern is also directed to the same point. The chest dart is always directed to the center of the chest and can be moved to the armhole, side cut, mid-front line, waist, neckline, and can be replaced with tucks and gathers. To develop the design of models of complex shapes, they usually use a basic bodice base with set-in sleeves, in which darts are located from the shoulder sections of the back and front, from the side sections and from the waist line.

Transferring the bust dart to the waistline.

To move the chest dart to the waist line, mark its new position, then cut the pattern along this line and, having closed (laid) the main dart, open it in a new place (Fig. 1). Fig.1. To achieve smoothness when processing a bulge on the chest, the dart should not reach the center of the chest by 1-2cm. The dart can be sewn in completely or partially, leaving softness under the bust line. Instead of a dart along the cut of the waistline, you can design an gather. In this case, the bodice is usually lengthened by 3-5 cm to create an overlap. A soft, voluminous bodice is recommended for figures who need to hide excessive thinness. A wide tuck opening can be distributed into several shallow folds - tucks.

Moving the chest dart to the side cut.

To do this, draw the line of the intended dart on the front part from the side cut to the center of the chest and cut along the intended line. The chest dart from the shoulder seam is closed by aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, a).

The dart obtained in this way, to achieve smoothness during processing, is not brought to the center of the chest by 3-4 cm. Using the line drawn from the side cut, you can model a cut flank, the contours of which form a rectangular relief line running through the center of the chest from the side cut to the waist line (Fig. 2, b). The vertical part of the relief is led along the dart of the waist line. The relief is decorated with decorative stitching and piping for expressiveness. If the product is made of striped or checkered fabric, the barrel can be cut at an angle of 45° to the warp thread.

Moving the dart to the neckline.

The dart into the neckline is designed in the same way as darts from the armhole, from the side cut, etc., i.e., the desired direction of the new dart is outlined, cut, closing the dart from the shoulder seam.

Fig.3. In this case, the chest dart is distributed between the dart from the side cut and from the neck. The waistline is formed by gathering (Fig. 3). The open dart from the neckline is connected to the dart from the armhole, and the upper side part of the bodice is cut off. The resulting relief can be decorated with decorative stitching, piping, lace, finishing buttons, snaps, and embroidery on the cutting part. The neckline dart can be replaced by two opposing folds located in front at its center. The drawing is developed according to the same rules for moving the dart into the neck. In this case, determine the position of the counter fold on the neckline, for which 2.5 cm is set aside from the mid-front line along the neckline. Draw a cutting line from the neck line to the center of the chest, cut it, chopping off the chest dart from the shoulder section with pins (Fig. 4).

The resulting pattern for the front (front) of the bodice is transferred to paper again, marking an opposite fold in the dart solution. The neck line is marked and cut with the fold closed to obtain an accurate cut. The finished pattern is traced onto the fabric, adding seam allowances. The neckline is marked and cut only when the darts are inserted. The resulting configuration is reproduced on the fabric by adding seam allowances along the sections. Darts in finished form You can stitch from the inside out, stitch along the front side of the product completely or partially, leaving the softness of the shape above the bust line. Instead of darts, the neckline can be decorated with gathering.

Moving the chest dart into soft folds at the widened neckline.

This cut can be suggested for dresses and blouses made of light silk or cotton fabric. Instead of folds, the neckline is also decorated with ruffles. The model will fit young and slender. To make a pattern on the basic basis of a bodice with set-in sleeves, mark a new neckline. Next, from the line of the middle front on the widened neck, lay two 3 cm. The resulting points (and the central point of the neck) are connected by straight lines to the center of the chest (Fig. 6, a).

On the side cut line, set aside 3 cm from the armhole and draw a straight line from this point to the center of the chest. Clip off the chest dart and cut the pattern along the marked lines. The tuck solution is distributed evenly into the folds (Fig. 6, b).

Replacing the chest dart with puffs or pleats from the shoulder section.

The locations of the folds are marked on the shoulder cut line. The position of the first fold is 4-4.5 cm from the neckline. Then the chest line is drawn on the pattern. The position of the folds is also noted on it: for two folds, 2.5 cm are set aside from the center of the dart to the right, for three - 2.5-4 cm to the left and right. The shoulder cut points are connected to the resulting points along the chest line. The chest dart solution is distributed into the number of folds provided for by the model (Fig. 7).

The folds may be soft or partially stitched. This cut is recommended for smaller busted figures to create the desired volume. In this case, folds can be replaced by gathering and puffs. For figures with big breasts this cut (with partially stitched folds) can also be recommended, but with the aim of hiding excessive volume

Replacing a bust dart with a fold at the armhole line.

Mark a fold line parallel to the armhole to the level of the chest line and then from the armhole to the center the line of the bust dart. The pattern is cut along the marked lines, simultaneously closing the chest dart. The shoulder cut is made with the resulting fold closed at the armhole (Fig. 8).

The edge of the fold can run at a distance of 1-2cm from the armhole or exactly along the armhole line. In this case, a seam allowance is added to the pattern along the armhole, and a cut is made along the intended seam for setting in the sleeve. Folds at the armhole are usually made in straight, free-form products. If the dress has a cut-off waistline, then gathers or soft folds can be placed along the shoulder section of the bodice.

Moving the bodice darts to the mid-front line.

On the bodice of the base, mark the desired direction of the dart. To do this, draw a straight line from a point located 1-2 cm below the chest line to the mid-front line at an angle. The centers of the chest and waist darts are connected. The bodice is cut along the marked lines, aligning and pinning the warp darts. The resulting tuck solution is laid towards the waist line and in this form the line of the middle front is aligned (Fig. 9).

This bodice cut is interesting for making products from striped fabrics. The mid-front line is placed on the fabric along the grain thread (and therefore along the strip). And after the dart is ground off, the strip lies on the product at an angle, along the line of the dart, connecting along the line of the middle front of the bodice in a herringbone pattern. The direction angle of the dart depends on the size of the mammary glands and the size of the waist. Therefore, when developing a bodice pattern, the direction of the dart can be found using a dummy method by pinning a fabric or paper pattern, marked with a strip, onto the figure.

Moving the bust dart to the undercut from the armhole.

At the level of 1/3 of the height of the armhole, a cutting line is marked on the base pattern. The length of the undercut should not reach 1cm from the width of the neckline. Cut the front along the intended line and close the chest dart above the undercut line, after which the dart from the armhole side will open, and the lower edge of the undercut will lengthen to form gathers (Fig. 10).

To get more gathers on the shelf, you can cut the pattern from the hem down and spread it apart on the fabric to the desired amount. Using the same principle, you can make a pattern with any shape of undercut. The location of the undercut (above or below) is determined on the figure, observing the general proportions of the product. When moving the shelf from the undercut to the side, folds can be designed in this area (Fig. 11).

Changing the silhouette of a product by transferring darts.

By moving the darts, you can change the shape and silhouette of the product. So, when transferring the shoulder dart to the waist or hip line, we get a pattern for a product with a flared silhouette (Fig. 9).

Thus creating a flared pattern along the line side seam you need to give an allowance in the amount of 1/2-1/4 of the allowance obtained as a result of transferring the dart.

The length of the darts is determined depending on the shape of the convexity, but it is always less than the distance from the contour of the part to the center of movement. The upper (chest) dart of the front is made 2-3 cm shorter than the distance from the shoulder to the center of the chest. The back shoulder dart is usually 7-9cm long. The length and shape of the darts are specified during fitting.

Transferring the dart to the armhole

Creating new style and when using the technique of moving the dart, you must always remember the following: in all positions and types of chest dart, its top should always be directed to the center of the bulge of the chest.

And one more important information. To achieve smoothness in the chest area, the dart is shortened by 1 - 3 cm if its sides are directed towards the shoulder seam, towards the neckline and into the armhole. And by 2 - 4 cm, if its sides are directed to the side seam, to the waist line and to the center of the front.

If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, we recommend using our step-by-step instructions.

Moving the dart into the armhole.

To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.

We set aside approximately 1/3 of the length of the armhole from the side line and place point D.

Note: Dividing into 3 parts is just one of many options. Can be divided into 2 parts, you can select any point on the armhole line.

Let's continue. We connect point G7 with a straight line to point D and cut the bodice along this line.

We close the chest dart, thereby opening a new dart along the cut line G7D.

Do not forget to shorten the resulting dart by 1 - 2 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area. To do this, we shift the top of the dart from the center by 1 - 2 cm and connect this top with straight lines to the ends of the dart.

We have one more bodice style.

We will use this drawing of the bodice to transfer the bust dart to the neckline, but more on that in the next article.

Methods for transferring a chest dart to a neckline

The dart along the bust line can be moved to the neckline different ways, each time getting a new style. But in principle, all transfer methods come down to three main ones: transformation into folds, gathers or darts that start from the neckline.

You will need a pattern for the base of the bodice with comfortable increases for you (loose fit), which you have already sewed on and got a good result. We do the modeling on one half of the front, the other half is identical. All numbers in the drawings below are tied to a specific figure and are given for guidance; in your case they may differ slightly.

Easy transfer of bust dart to neckline

We draw a model line on the pattern - this is the segment connecting the neck and the VTG. The new chest dart will be located along this line. Cut the pattern along the model line and one side of the chest dart. We close the tuck opening and fasten its sides with tape. A new bust dart will open in the neckline, which can be sewn up or folded.

Uniform gathers along the neckline

To transform the chest dart into a uniform gathering along the neckline, draw an auxiliary arc (in red in the drawing). We draw model lines on the drawing: we divide the neck into several equal segments and from each division point we lower the segment until it intersects with the auxiliary line. We connect the ends of the segments with the VTG. We cut the pattern along the model lines, close the chest dart, revealing several small equal openings in the neck, fastening the cut parts with tape.

Pros advise
In practice, quite often, for a beautiful fluffy gather or deep folds, the solution of only one chest dart is not enough. In this case, professionals advise including a dart along the waistline in the modeling. The drawing shows that by closing it, we will get a 6cm increase in the solution without increasing the chest girth, which is very important if we do not want to get excess fabric around the bust. This modeling is only possible with a cut-off waistline.

Neck pleats

As a rule, 2 to 4 folds look good on the front neckline. A larger quantity will look like an assembly - the folds will not be clearly expressed.
We draw model lines on the pattern, as shown in the drawing below. We cut the pattern along them, close the chest dart, revealing three identical solutions in the neck.

Pros advise
When transferring the dart to the neckline, the total fold solution may be insufficient. What if the model does not have a seam waist?
We draw model lines on the drawing (in blue in the drawing) and cut the pattern along them. We close the waist dart as shown in the drawing. Align the side cut with a smooth arc.
After cutting, we pull the side cut in the area of ​​the waist line, and iron it along the hip line using a WTO.
Important! With such a transfer of the waist dart to the neckline, the fabric should lend itself well to WTO (wet heat treatment).

We create folds and gathers along the neckline

We make folds along the neck line as in the drawing. For uniform assembly, simply round off the neck line.
Don’t forget to align the side cut line with a smooth arc.

Maximum increase in dart opening along the neckline

If you want to make sure that there is enough dart solution transferred to the neckline, make a tester from calico for one half of the front.
But, if you want to further increase the opening of the folds or the pomp of the neckline, the pros advise using the armhole. This modeling can be done with both folds and gathers.

We apply model lines to the base pattern, some of which end in the armhole. We close the waist and chest darts. The additional solution will increase by 15 cm. Then distribute the solutions evenly.

Let's compare the previously done modeling with what happened with additional modeling due to the armhole. Important! The maximum possible increase in the solution can be obtained only with a cut-off waist line.

If the model is not cut at the waist, the modeling will be similar, but the waist dart is not involved. In this case, the increase in the solution will not be so significant, but suddenly it was precisely what was missing for the harmonious distribution of the assembly or folds.

Important! If your model is planned to have a yoke or an increase in the neckline, they are applied to the base pattern before modeling begins!

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When creating a new style and using the technique of moving the dart, you must always remember the following: in all positions and types of the chest dart, its top should always be directed to the center of the bulge of the chest.

And one more important information. To achieve smoothness in the chest area, the dart is shortened by 1 - 3 cm if its sides are directed towards the shoulder seam, towards the neckline and into the armhole. And by 2 - 4 cm, if its sides are directed to the side seam, to the waist line and to the center of the front.

If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, we recommend using our

Moving the dart into the armhole.

To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.

We set aside approximately 1/3 of the length of the armhole from the side line and place point D.

Note: Dividing into 3 parts is just one of many options. Can be divided into 2 parts, you can select any point on the armhole line.

Let's continue. We connect point G7 with a straight line to point D and cut the bodice along this line.

We close the chest dart, thereby opening a new dart along the cut line G7D.

Do not forget to shorten the resulting dart by 1 - 2 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area. To do this, we shift the top of the dart from the center by 1 - 2 cm and connect this top with straight lines to the ends of the dart.

The demodeling of darts is understood as the transfer of any part of it into sections (armholes, necklines, bottoms) with the aim of lengthening them, caused by a change in the shape of the corresponding section of the structure. A diagram of the conditional division of the back by the lines of the direction of translation of the shoulder dart of the back, indicating the possible values ​​​​of elongation of the sections, is presented in Figure 8.1.

1. Transfer the shoulder dart to the midline of the back. Used when modeling products with a middle seam. Recommended for products made from soft plastic fabrics.

2. The lengthening of the back neckline due to the transfer of part of the shoulder dart into it is insignificant. A large dart size transferred to the neckline can cause the neckline to lag behind the neck.

3. The transfer of the shoulder dart into the cut of the back armhole is carried out in such a way that the resulting lengthening of the armhole (Δ sp.sp.) corresponds to the change in the thickness of the shoulder pad.

If the shoulder pad is not provided in the BC, then Δ pr.sp. equal to the thickness of the shoulder pad introduced into the model structure. Depending on the designed inclination of the shoulder, a full or partial transfer of the shoulder dart into the armhole is carried out.

4. Along the armhole cut, an additional extension for ironing can be designed. This transformation is carried out in order to reduce the shoulder dart opening or to replace it with a shoulder cut fit. Tightening of the armhole is possible in products made from fabrics that are amenable to WTO. Incomplete ironing of the size of the dart transferred to the armhole or incorrect assessment of the molding properties of materials leads to the occurrence of defects, manifested in the form of inclined folds under the armhole.

5. In products made of soft plastic materials on the back with relief, you can use line 5 to transfer the shoulder dart.

Lengthening the cut of the relief of the central part of the back for ironing is used to reduce the ironing along the shoulder section. From the point of view of rational use of the molding properties of materials, ironing from the side of the oblique cut of the relief is preferable to ironing the almost longitudinal section of the armhole cut. In addition, ironing the relief cut can be replaced by preliminary stitching the relief seam, followed by ironing the seam and simultaneously ironing the fit. In model designs, as a rule, ironing is designed along three sections at once: shoulder, armhole and relief.

6. The transfer of the shoulder dart into the hem cut is used when designing a “trapezoid” silhouette.

Figure 8.1 – Scheme of possible directions for modeling the shoulder dart

Figure 8.2 – Scheme of possible directions for modeling the chest dart

Remodeling the upper front dart to change its shape has a significant difference from a similar procedure performed on the back. The bulge of the chest is so far away from the shoulder and armhole cuts that they cannot be used for ironing.

A diagram of the conditional division of the part in front of the direction lines for the translation of the upper dart with numbering and an indication of the possible values ​​of the elongation of the sections is shown in Figure 8.2.

1. Transferring part of the dart to the center line of the front is used when modeling swing products in outerwear with an open clasp, designing the ironing on the lapel side. This allows you to reduce the size of the tuck solution transferred to the floodplain, because Excessive lengthening of the armhole leads to the appearance of corner creases under the armhole. When making products, a lapel marker is placed along the fold line of the lapel, fixing the projected amount of ironing. With this design solution, it is necessary to iron the edge of the lapel, to avoid this, transfer of part of the upper dart is carried out in direction 2.

2. Translation is performed along a broken line. It is advisable to make the dart under the lapel split in order to grind it down with a fit of a longer cut and iron this fit when ironing the dart.

3. Transferring part of the dart to the neckline is similar to transferring it to the back neckline.

4. The transfer of the dart into the armhole must be carried out so that the lengthening of the floodplain does not exceed the lengthening of the backrest floodplain. This will ensure the balance of the model armhole in the product. With a significant increase in the model shoulder (the thickness of the shoulder pad is more than 1-1.5 cm), it is necessary to further lengthen the armhole by 0.5 cm for each centimeter of increase in the thickness of the shoulder pad.

It is possible that the lengthening of the front armhole, obtained as a result of the transfer of the dart, exceeds the lengthening of the back armhole. This solution makes it possible to obtain a high-quality design only if there is an expansion of the product along the chest line, and it is desirable that ΔPg be close in value to the value of the extension of the front armhole. In the absence of expansion under the armhole and the excess length of the front armhole, a corner crease from the armhole is formed in the product.

5. The transfer of part of the upper front dart into the relief line from the armhole is similar to the same transfer of the shoulder dart on the back. Tightening the cut of the relief of the central part of the front, lengthening as a result of the transfer of the dart, allows you to maintain the position of the center of the front convexity during the transition from the BC to the MC.