Fashion Week. Fashion weeks: what is happening to them and who needs them now Where was the first fashion week in 1943


This 10-year-old boy, whose name is Desmond Napoles, is truly amazing, especially after he showed up at New York Fashion Week on Sunday in the Gypsy Sport Fall 2018 show.

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“I FEEL AWESOME!!!,” Desmond wrote on Instagram. “I’m so excited about the opportunity I was given today.”
In an interview, Desmond said that he began dressing in women's clothing at the age of 2, when he would try on his mother's heels and walk around the house in them, and also use sheets as a wig.

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Desmond describes his appearance as "androgynous" and his style as "avant-garde drag". On Gypsy Sport he wore an oversized black blazer with Elizabethan frills around the neck.

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On the runway, Desmond exuded confidence, which seemed to fit with the vision of Gypsy Sport designer Rio Uribe, who was described in September's Vogue as a "born disruptor."
“For Uribe, thinking outside the traditional canons of fashion is a way of life,” the publication notes.

When Desmond was younger, he would wear his mother's clothes, high heels, make a wig out of a towel and hold a fashion show in the house. At the age of five, he loved to play with toy trains, cars and computer games.
Already at the age of six, the boy wore an Elsa costume from the cartoon “Frozen” and asked his parents to give him fairy-tale princess dresses.

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The parents were concerned about Desmond's behavior - they were afraid of the reaction of others and possible aggression from his peers. Having consulted a therapist, they heard one piece of advice - do nothing, and the boy should develop naturally, exploring his tastes in clothes, toys and activities.
But in 2014 Napoles' love for women's clothing only intensified. Then the boy starred in the video of transsexual singer Jinkx Monsoon, and fame came to him.
In June 2015, he took part in the gay pride parade in New York wearing a rainbow tutu and a gold beret. His photos quickly gained viral popularity.

Good evening, dear readers Sprint-Response website. The site has already published an article with a full review and all the answers in the game "Who want to be a millionaire?" for September 30, 2017. You can view it by following the link above. And in this article we will dwell in more detail on the ninth question, which was answered by the participants of the first part of the game: Alla Mikheeva and Ilya Averbukh.

In which city did the world's first Fashion Week take place in 1943?

New York Fashion Week is one of the four main fashion weeks in the world (together with London, Paris and Milan fashion weeks), also known as “7th on the Sixth”. Held twice a year: in February, collections for the fall season are shown. winter, and in September - spring-summer trends (New York Fashion Week begins on the second Thursday of February and from the second Thursday of September).

New York Fashion Week, held in 1943, was founded by Eleanor Lambert and was the world's first fashion week. The original name was “Press Week”. The purpose of the event was to divert attention from French fashion during the Second World War, when fashion connoisseurs could not travel to Paris for shows. The location of the shows until 2010 was Bryant Park. Its white tents, located on 24,000 m², have become a real symbol of New York Fashion Week. Currently, due to lack of space, all shows have been moved to Lincoln Center.

The word “fashion” has long entered our lives and has special meaning fashion for the world of clothing, accessories, all kinds of beauty products, including underwear. Fashionistas all over the world are actively preparing for each season and want to know the latest trends in advance and learn useful ideas For stylish looks. The primary sources of fashion are designer fashion shows and grand shows at Fashion Weeks. The most famous and eminent among them are fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

So, let's take a look at where it all began and how individual shows turned into modern Fashion Weeks.

In the mid-1860s, English-born French designer Charles Frederick Worth, an early exponent of HauteCouture, introduced the practice of displaying his designs directly on young female models, whom he called “sosies.” His first model was his wife, Marie-Augustine Berne, who became the first fashion model. Thanks to this inventive marketing technique, Worth won recognition from all the clients of his atelier.

The first impromptu catwalk was invented by the Frenchman Paul Poiret, who in 1909 showed his collection on girls who walked in the center of the room in front of clients. The designer personally helped the girls change clothes and adjusted clothes on models in a separate room. In 1911, Poiret staged a bright theatrical show “1002 Nights, or a Persian Triumph” in his own garden, which marked a new step in history fashion shows.

A full-fledged fashion show with a catwalk and musical accompaniment was first used in 1905 by the English fashion designer Lucille Glyn.

In 1952, in Florence, the Brioni fashion house held its first men's clothing show.

At the same time, in America, starting in 1903, large fashion stores and department stores in New York and Philadelphia began holding their own shows to attract female customers, and were very successful in this.

The first large-scale demonstration of women's underwear in history took place in 1915 in New York and attracted not only women, but also men, of course.

New York is rightfully considered the “father” of Fashion Week, and the “mother” is Eleanor Lambert, founder of the Council fashion designers America. In 1943, she held a “Press Week”, which turned out to be very successful, since Europe at that time was engulfed in war. Thus, the formal date of birth of Fashion Week is considered to be 1943, and the location is New York.

Since then, traditional Fashion Weeks are held twice a year in four fashion “capitals” - New York, London, Milan and Paris, lasting 5-7 days. From January to April, autumn-winter trends are shown, and from September to November, spring-summer trends are shown.

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Every person who keeps up with the times has come across the word “fashion” at least once in their life. This term is present everywhere - in household appliances, in cars, and even in the animal and plant world. But fashion is of particular importance for a sphere very close to us, girls, namely for the vast kingdom of clothing, accessories and all kinds of beauty products.

With the arrival of the new fashion season, avid fashionistas are actively preparing for the next one and stocking up on information about what will be trending in just six months. This motive is extremely simple - you need to have time to find the desired trendy new items without spending enormous effort, nerves and time, so as not to run around in last minute shopping, frantically trying to snatch the thing you liked from the hands of the same “sufferer”. Where can you get useful ideas about future must-haves for stylish looks? And this is where several guides come to the rescue - all kinds glossy magazines, popular fashion blogs, but the lion's share of information can be gleaned from primary sources - designer fashion shows and grand shows at Fashion Weeks.

Today, for an ordinary girl, getting to a personal fashion show, as well as attending a long fashion marathon, is not particularly difficult, since almost every big city can boast of its “native” designers and well-planned clothing presentations. But especially informative and unforgettable for all representatives of the fair sex will be the fashion shows as part of the Fashion Weeks taking place in the famous four megacities - New York, London, Milan and Paris. However, few people know that the tradition of organizing fashion shows is not that old. This publication will tell you how it all began and how individual shows turned into modern Fashion Weeks.

When recalling the history of fashion shows, one cannot miss such an important person for the fashion industry as Charles Frederick Worth, a French designer originally from England. Worth became one of the first representatives of Haute Couture and did a lot for the development of current fashion, but one of his innovations is of particular importance. In the mid-1860s, the fashion designer introduced the use of demonstrating the clothes he created not in sketches, but directly on young girl models, whom he called “sosies” (doubles). His wife, Marie-Augustine Berne, who is now called the first fashion model, made her public debut in the designer’s outfits. Thanks to such an inventive marketing technique, Worth won recognition from all the clients of the studio.

The first to bring models onto an impromptu catwalk was the Frenchman Paul Poiret, who in 1909 showed his creations on girls walking around the room in front of interested clients in one direction and the other. This allowed potential buyers to view the outfits from all angles. The revolutionary designer personally helped change clothes and adjusted clothes on models in a separate room, the so-called dressing room - the ancestor of the modern backstage. And already in 1911, Poiret staged a bright theatrical show “1002 Nights, or a Celebration in Persian Style” in his own garden, making a new round in the history of fashion shows.

A full-fledged fashion show with a catwalk and musical accompaniment was first used in 1905 by the English fashion designer Lucille Glyn.

In 1952 in Florence, thanks to fashion house Brioni held the first fashion show for men, thus introducing the stronger sex to the world of fashion.

On the other side of the Atlantic - in America - the fashion industry was also developing, and at an even more rapid pace. Beginning in 1903, large fashion stores and department stores in New York and Philadelphia staged their own shows to attract customers, who never stopped coming back after such shows. Models for such actions do not necessarily have to meet any special criteria - the main thing is that they have an attractive face and a smooth gait.

Already in 1915, the first-ever large-scale demonstration of lingerie took place in New York, which attracted the attention of not only women, but also their husbands.

In 1943, she held an event called “Press Week”, which was supposed to shake up the fashion industry and attract as many fans as possible to it. Lambert chose a very successful period for organizing this event, since American fashion designers could no longer draw ideas from their French colleagues, since at that time World War II was going on in the Old World. Due to the fact that the Germans occupied Paris in 1940, the editors-in-chief of the American glossy Vogue and Harper's Bazaar were unable to attend the fashion shows of the then famous French couturiers, and the world of American fashion was left without the influence of Europeans.

“Press Week” was a huge success among all fans of the fashion industry and those people who are directly connected with it. America's fashion has moved to new level development and gained respect from fashion designers from other countries, and compatriot buyers finally appreciated the creations of local designers. Thus, the formal date of the creation of Fashion Week is considered to be 1943, and the location is New York.

Since then, fashion weeks have traditionally been held in the so-called four fashion “capitals” - New York, London, Milan and Paris. In each city, the fashion marathon lasts 5-7 days and is organized twice a year: from January to April, autumn-winter trends are demonstrated, and from September to November, spring-summer trends are shown.

Within data Fashion Week designers present clothing collections called pret-a-porter, designed for mass buyers. The shows attract the editors-in-chief of leading glossy magazines and buyers, who determine which clothes will become a must-have regardless of the weather and will be sold out in stores with lightning speed.

Fashion weeks are also held in Kyiv, Moscow, Madrid, Singapore, Barcelona, ​​Los Angeles, Tokyo, Berlin and other big cities.

In addition, since 1973, there has been a 4-day Haute Couture Week, organized every six months in Paris, where iconic fashion designers introduce admirers to extravagant haute couture creations.

New York Fashion Week

Until 1994, shows during New York Fashion Week were held in luxury hotels, restaurants, elite nightclubs and lofts. But after a minor accident, when plaster fell on the heads of models and visitors to the Michael Kors show, the event “moved” to Bryant Park, where it remained until 2010. As a result of the incident, the popular expression “We love fashion, but are not ready to die for it” appeared.

Since 2010, the fashion marathon has been moved to Lincoln Center, and since 2009, Fashion Week has received the usual name Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

London Fashion Week

Foggy Albion and its capital, London, continue the fashion relay non-stop. Here Fashion Week as such made its debut in 1983 and was organized under the auspices of the British Fashion Council and the Department of Business. The traditional permanent location is Somerset House, which stretches over an entire block with cozy showrooms, huge fitting rooms and dressing rooms.

Milan Fashion Week

The third city to welcome guests is Milan, which hosted its first fashion week in 1979, although before that Florence was the center of Italian fashion. Every year, Milan hosts four seasonal weeks of shows - two men's "Milano Moda Uomo" and two women's "Milano Moda Donna".

Paris Fashion Week

Closes fashion season the city of all lovers is Paris. As usual, Paris Fashion Week is particularly elegant and enchanting. Since 1973, Paris Fashion Week has been held in the grandiose building of the Louvre Carrousel under the auspices of the French Federation of Haute Couture, which, together with Pret-a-Porter, is responsible for organizing the fashion show. The official name of the event is “Semaine des Createurs du Mode”.

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The founder of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Eleanor Lambert came up with the idea of ​​bringing together designers at the same time in the same place. The first fashion week took place in New York in 1943 thanks to her efforts. Then the event was called Fashion Press Week and only industry representatives were allowed to attend: fashion journalists and buyers. They decided to hold the shows six months before the start of the season so that the designers had enough time to sew clothes. Now the production time is much shorter, but the tradition of showing the collection six months earlier remains. Gradually, fashion became more popular and shows lost their aura of inaccessibility. In 1984, Thierry Mugler held a show at the Zenith Stadium in Paris - anyone could buy a ticket.

And last summer IMG was one of the organizers New York week fashion - began selling tickets to the event. The cost is calculated depending on what is included in the service package: attending shows, backstage access, meeting designers, hair and makeup from leading stylists and makeup artists. If you don’t want to spend money, there is always Instagram: live broadcasts from shows are either carried out by the brands themselves. It’s unlikely that Eleanor Lambert could have imagined this. The current state of affairs suits everyone except representatives of retail, for whom fashion weeks were started. Their problem is that this event has turned into a PR tool: more and more brands are making grandiose shows out of shows, while the commercial goals of the shows are no longer fully justified.

What is the problem?

One of the main disadvantages is the very tight schedule. Every day during fashion week there are up to 20 shows (it’s not necessary to attend all of them, of course, but still). Multiply by seven, and then by four more. Add to this presentations, which are usually held outside the main schedule, and four flights in a month. And now fashion weeks no longer seem like idle entertainment. Tatyana Strekalovskaya, co-owner and buyer of SVMoscow, claims that the existing format of fashion weeks is extremely inconvenient.

In the photo: Rick Owens spring-summer 2016 show

“During this time, everyone gets tired, especially the part that does work (after all, we don’t go to fashion weeks to watch shows, but to place orders). The influential big buyers I know don’t go to parties—it’s so exhausting. The most important ones may take about ten minutes. Slackers and newcomers move with delight from city to city and from party to party, and for the time being it delights them. At the same time, I feel increasing pressure from sales managers of brands, deadlines are being severely reduced, which means there is less and less time to think about the order. Either this trend will continue, or another revolution awaits us. That’s what we hope for.”

Dries Van Noten spring-summer 2016

But there are also advantages

First of all, impressions help brands sell. According to the fashion editor of Ukrainian Vogue Tatiana Solovey, thanks to the compactness of fashion weeks, insiders can form a general impression of the season. “Everyone operates with emotional images when modeling the mood and trends of the next season. Yes, buyers need jeans and white T-shirts, but what helps sell fashion items is not harsh necessity, but emotions. Vetements, after loudly announcing that it would stop staging shows, has returned to the official schedule of Paris Fashion Week. Now, it seems, everyone is interested in how to bring real emotions into the digital world and that wow effect that happens at perfectly executed shows (for example, Dries Van Noten) or at the sight of mesmerizing window displays (for example, Le Bon Marché) on social networks."

In the photo: Viktor & Rolf spring-summer 2010 show

Let's not lie, we all have at least once after viewing photos new collection conditional Céline caught themselves thinking that they urgently needed to start saving money. In addition, the more unusual the show, the more posts there will be on Instagram and publications in the media. And here all means are good.

How do brands attract attention?

A supermarket, a rocket launch, a replica of the Eiffel Tower, a waterfall—whatever happened at Chanel shows. There are usually no fewer people who want to see the grandiose decorations than those who want to admire the outfits. To show the fall-winter 2016 collection, Tommy Hilfiger built a real amusement park in New York, collaborated with Gigi Hadid and placed the main Instagram influencers in the first row. But the finale of the Versace show caused the biggest resonance during previous fashion weeks. The creative director of the brand, Donatella Versace, invited the main supermodels of the 90s to the show. It seems like everyone with the Internet has seen the photo with Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen in gold dresses.

In the photo: Chanel fall-winter 2017/2018 show

Creative director of the jewelry brand Anima Jewels, Mikhail Baryshnikov, believes that social networks have greatly changed fashion weeks: “Models from among the most popular on Instagram are invited to shows, and guests are also invited to the front row.”

But the journalist and author of the popular Telegram channel about fashion Good Morning, Karl! Katya Fedorova is sure that shows are mostly organized for the press and Instagram. “All these walls of flowers, rockets taking off, celebrities on the podium are just news feeds so that journalists have something to quickly catch on to, because now there is no time to write thoughtfully about the collection. There's nothing wrong with that, unless it's marketing fluff to distract attention from a weak and boring collection."

“In the information age in which we live, speed and bombshell effect are important - picture. Therefore, most of the shows turned into real shows. Guests come with the attitude: “How will you surprise?” — says Aizel PR manager Arthur Efremov. — Brands follow an integrated approach: at shows you can meet important clients and partners, celebrity friends, bloggers and, of course, journalists. It's like diversifying risks. It’s the same here: separation of information flows that will be broadcast through influencers, buyers, stars.”

Pictured: Gareth Pugh fall-winter 2015/2016 show

Not all brands want to participate in the “pay attention to us” game

Some brands, on the contrary, are trying to distance themselves from the pursuit of likes. Vivienne Westwood showed the autumn-winter collection only to journalists and buyers: on January 8, the designer sent them photos and videos by email. This time we will not see the Rodarte show either: Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the founders of the brand, decided to abandon it in favor of a closed presentation. Alexander Wang announced that this is the last time he will participate in fashion week. In the future, the designer wants to present his collections outside the generally accepted schedule. “Recently, more and more brands are showing off-season collections.” Couture was full of ready-to-wear: Proenza Schouler, Ellery, Acne Studios, Kenzo - they all decided to move away from the traditional calendar. According to them, the extra month gives more time for production.

In the photo: Vivienne Westwood spring-summer 2016 show

In addition, the collection is in stores longer than usual, before the discount season arrives, says blogger Doina Ciobanu. — If you think economically and efficiently, then all displays can be done in electronic format. Both journalists and buyers would save a lot of money, not to mention the brands themselves, who spend huge amounts of money on seasonal shows. But this industry relies heavily on people-to-people contact and acquaintances. Fashion weeks are like technology conferences: the technologies themselves can be presented online, but human interaction and live experiences are very important to attract investors.”

Maison Margiela fall-winter 2016/2017

It’s too early to say that all brands will soon refuse to show. They definitely aren't going anywhere anytime soon. If only because buyers are not yet tired of looking at waterfalls and the Hadid sisters. But many in the fashion industry are confident that fashion weeks have long since become obsolete. The most sought-after producer of fashion shows, Alexandre de Betak, believes that the “a thousand people travel to four cities over a month” format is worth reinventing. “Shows will remain a great communication tool for luxury brands, but they don’t necessarily need to be part of a fashion week. Thanks to social networks shows are so effective that they can be staged anytime and anywhere,” he says.