(developed by M.A. Boyko, teacher at children's art school, Moscow)

Belts were made, as a rule, from multi-colored woolen threads, sometimes with the addition of linen (less often, silk). Their patterns were very diverse - from simple longitudinal or transverse stripes to beveled geometric motifs, made using the bran method (on boards). Folk belts were made long, their ends were decorated with lush tassels, and trimmed with beads, bugles, and cannon balls.

The colors for the belt were mostly chosen to be bright and contrasting, but folk craftswomen knew how to avoid excessive variegation - all multi-color schemes were subordinated to one leading color: red, orange-yellow or another .

An elegant colorful belt served as an addition to the folk costume, both women's and men's. Belts were made in different ways.

Belts

Children's works

Weaving "twitching"

The simplest method of making belts and braid is the so-called “pulling” - a type of weaving that was used especially often in the Ryazan province. This method is simple and does not require special equipment; children 7-8 years old can easily cope with this work.

Before you start tugging, you need to prepare the threads - make five loops of the same length out of them, taking into account the fact that the weaving will be one and a half times shorter than the loops. On one side, we tie the loops tightly together and attach them to some stationary object: a nail, a wall, a door handle, etc. We put the free ends of the loops on the fingers: three loops on the index, middle and ring fingers of one hand, and two loops on the index and the middle fingers of the other hand (the hands should be turned with the palms facing you, the fingers slightly bent), the ring finger of the right (or left) hand remains free for work.

We pass the free ring finger into the loops placed on the fingers of the other hand, picking up the far loop from the bottom up, and pulling it through the other loops towards ourselves, after which it will be put on the ring finger of the other hand. The ring finger of this hand was freed up for work. Now we will pass this free finger through the loops put on the fingers of the other hand, pick up the far loop and pull it towards ourselves - the loop will end up on the ring finger of this hand again. Now let's repeat the whole cycle from the beginning. Having pulled through the next loop, you need to spread both hands to the sides and pull all the loops to tighten the work. This must be done evenly so that the belt is even and does not expand or contract. The pattern is formed by alternating loops of different colors. Having made the desired length, we tie the threads, leaving a few centimeters for the brush.

This method can be used to weave a round or flatter belt. If the length of the belt or braid must be more than one meter, then two people must work, since the large length of the loops will not allow one person to spread their arms to the required width to tighten the braid. In this case, one actually pulls, and the second helps to tighten the loops. In this way, you can weave a narrow patterned belt from woolen threads of different colors.

Weaving "on a bottle"

Variants of the simplest forms of weaving belts are technologies based on knots and loops. For weaving round belts or braid, there is a “bottle” weaving method. Weaving was most often used in the Russian North, in the Arkhangelsk province. Woolen threads were used for weaving. The pattern was obtained in the form of stripes twisted in a spiral. The preparation of threads with this method was that a certain number of threads (the number of strips depends on the number of threads) twice as long as the future finished product collected on one side into a bundle and tied into a knot together with the main thread, and on the other, each thread was wound into balls. The end of the knitting needle was inserted into the knot and lowered into the bottle. Weave around the knitting needle, tying a knot around the main thread with patterned threads.

Plain and twill weaving

For weaving wider belts, there was another method, which also did not require additional equipment. Threads for weaving were taken from wool or silk, and the pattern was obtained in a bias check. The preparation of threads using this method consisted in the fact that a certain number of threads (depending on the width of the product) with a length of one and a half times longer than the future finished product were collected on one side into a bundle and left free on the other. It was necessary to attach the tied bundle to a stationary object, for example, to the back of a chair, placing it in front of you. When we started weaving, we distributed the threads in the desired order, dividing them into two equal strands. Now you need to separate the outer thread on the left side and move it to the middle (i.e. to the left edge of the right strand), forming a plain weave, and then attach it to the right strand.

Then, in the same order, the rightmost thread is laid to the middle and attached to the left strand, and so on.

The pattern is obtained by interlacing colored threads.

The order of weaving threads can be not only according to the principle of plain weave - through one thread, but also through two, each time with a shift of one thread, that is, according to the principle of twill weave. Weaving of this type is somewhat more complex, but with its help you can get an interesting effect reminiscent of a transverse or longitudinal scar. With the first type of weaving, it is better to take an even number of threads, with the second - an odd number (for better processing of the edges). Another variant of this weaving is with additional threads that are braided with patterned threads .

Fabric on boards

Another way to make patterned belts is to weave on small square-shaped thin boards with holes in the corners. Children of different ages can cope with this weaving, but the teacher helps younger children (7-9 years old) thread the threads into the boards, while older children (12-16 years old) cope with the task on their own.

Threads tied into a bundle and attached to a stationary object are inserted into the holes of the boards: one thread into each hole (four threads into each board). The number of planks can be different - they determine the width of the product. Usually they take from ten to thirty, and in some cases more. The threads for such weaving are usually woolen, multi-colored, and of medium thickness.

When weaving in those places where threads of the same color were threaded into the boards, you will get a narrow longitudinal strip of that color. In the place where threads of two colors were threaded into one board, you will get a motley stripe. Then the planks are connected and the threads are stretched. Before weaving begins, the planks must be installed in pairs, so that two adjacent threads are threaded symmetrically relative to each other. For the weft, use the same thread as for the warp.

When weaving, the threads must be in a taut position. To do this, they are tied to the belt in such a way that there is about half a meter left for work, counting from the garter to the stationary object. The planks are folded close to each other so that a shed is formed between the threads threaded into the upper and lower holes.

The weft thread is laid into this shed and nailed onto itself with a finger or a wooden knife. Now the planks are carefully turned over all together 90 degrees towards themselves, and another weft thread is laid into the shed thus obtained and nailed to the first weft thread as tightly as possible. Then the planks turn towards themselves again, another weft thread is laid, pulled up and nailed to the previous one. We repeat the whole process from the beginning. We work in this way until the threads become so twisted that it becomes difficult to work. Then we begin to turn the planks in reverse side, we lay the weft threads in the same order.

The pattern is formed by alternating colored stripes, smooth and variegated. You can come up with various patterns framed by smooth stripes along the edges or make multi-color checkers. You can also make a pattern in the form of a large Christmas tree in the middle, bordered by smooth and variegated stripes along the edges. Christmas trees are made from the same checkers, but made with a shift of one turn of the board.

There is also a known method of weaving belts and other products with ornamental patterns on tablets. Products with such patterns are made on two types of boards: regular and with threads of two colors located diagonally. The edges of the product, as a rule, are made on ordinary boards, with a pattern of longitudinal stripes. The pattern is made from threads of two contrasting colors.

The number of patterned boards is taken, depending on the width of the pattern being made, one pair for each ledge of the pattern.

At the beginning of the work, the patterned boards are installed in such a way that in the upper part of the pharynx there are threads of both the first and second colors, arranged in the same order as in the pattern in its original position. The transition from one position to another corresponds to one turn of the planks and one insertion of the weft. Simple planks are always rotated the same way - 90 degrees. Patterned boards are rotated depending on the pattern. By turning a pair of patterned planks together with non-patterned ones by 90 degrees twice (and, accordingly, laying wefts each time), we thereby leave the first color at the top. But with the next turn by 90 degrees, it should go down, so we look at the drawing: if, according to the pattern, it should go down with the next weft insertion, then we turn this pair of planks, as usual, by 90 degrees. If we see that this color should remain at the top in a given place, then we rotate the board 270 degrees so that the desired color is at the top again. And we do this with all pairs of patterned boards, strictly following the pattern. The more pairs of patterned boards, the wider and more complex the pattern that can be made on them. There is only one indispensable condition - smooth stripes must be placed along the edges of the pattern, made on ordinary boards.

The ornamental motifs themselves can be varied. If desired, you can make a belt or other product with inscriptions, dates, arranging them into a pattern.

One of the most ancient types of weaving is weaving on planks. It appeared much earlier than the loom, at the beginning of our era. Perhaps its roots come from ancient Egypt. The dawn of this technique occurs in the Middle Ages in the regions of Scandinavia and England. The Anglo-Saxons and Vikings wove beautiful cords and braids on planks, which they then used to decorate their clothes. Archaeological excavations indicate that this method of needlework was mastered by masters different countries. So, at one time, tablets were discovered in China, Norway, Germany, and Sweden. The peoples who have long inhabited the territory of the modern Leningrad region had different kinds hand weaving - weaving on planks, on reeds, on threads.

Weaving on planks is an ethnographic term. In ancient times, tablets could be made of wood, leather, horn and even metal. For example, in Novgorod, such devices were made from bone. Wooden planks were used for weaving belts in various regions of Russia until the beginning of the 20th century.

This is a very ancient type of weaving, it is a technology of transition from weaving, from twisting ropes to weaving.

Woven belts in Russian costume

A mandatory element of both women's and men's peasant costumes has always been a belt. Walking without a belt, “unbelting” was considered a great sin and indecency. The belt in ancient Russian costume played a sacred meaning and served as a talisman. IN at different ages people wore different belts. For a child, just a twisted cord was enough; for teenagers, girls and boys, these were thicker belts, twisted from a larger number of threads with some kind of simple pattern. Then, with age, the belt became wider. And then, the most beautiful, most elegant belt was the swear belt, made for a wedding. Or a prayer woven on a belt or dedicated to a specific person.

Belts differ in technology, ornamentation, and color scheme.

On the belts were woven insignia of the clan, preferences in choosing the future, or some statements. A belt is a mandatory part of a costume in Rus'. It was a kind of amulet for its owner.

The belt was put on the child right at birth, thereby, as it were, tying him to this life. Of course, it was just a thread spun with a slander. As the child grew, the type of belt changed as he grew older.

Preparing to weave a belt

Nowadays, this long-forgotten Russian craft has begun to gradually revive. It is usually used to make belts, ribbons or braids with various patterns. Such ribbons are used for decorating clothing, haberdashery, and also for home interiors.

Mastering this craft does not require complex or expensive tools. The main thing is desire and simple tools.

As tools we use a belt, a knife for nailing the weft, scissors, woolen, half-woolen, linen or silk threads, which must be previously woven (wound).

The length of the thread depends on what kind of product you want to weave. This is the length of the product plus one third of the length.

There are several types of drawings. There are threading belts, that is, colored threads are threaded into each board in a certain way and with the constant rotation of these boards all the time in one direction or at a certain frequency. For example, six turns in one direction, then six turns in the other. This way a certain pattern is obtained.

Belts in Rus' were made using different technologies, for example, using the bran technique. Or simply weaving laces, there were many different types hand weaving belts.

There are two techniques for weaving on planks. Embedding, where the pattern is obtained from the arrangement of colored threads when threading. And the transfer technique, when the drawing is obtained by changing places of the boards.

So, let's move on to weaving. To do this, you need to make special boards. These are squares with a side of 6 cm made of thin plywood, thick cardboard or plastic. Holes are made in the corners of the squares. It is best to number all the boards and each hole. The holes are numbered clockwise.

The squares need to be made with smooth edges and the corners should be cut off so that when turning, our threads do not cling to them.

In addition, you need a shuttle. I make it from the same cardboard. The weft is wound around it.

The width of the resulting product depends on the number of threads used and their thickness. The more threads, the wider the belt.

In my article I will talk about typesetting technology.

Weaving

4 threads are inserted into each board. They can be the same color or different colors.

For weaving with ornaments in some planks, we will thread the threads only into two holes, those located diagonally.

So let's begin.

We choose the pattern we will weave with. We have one like this.

It requires threads of two colors. It is desirable that they be contrasting.

The edges of the product, as a rule, are made of the same color, threading the threads into all four holes. The middle, patterned part is made on boards threaded with two threads of different colors. For our drawing we need 8 boards with four threads and 10 boards with two threads (from now on I will call them patterned). We insert threads of the same color into regular boards, and two colors into patterned boards.

Let's start threading the threads. To begin with, take strings about a meter long. According to our drawing, you need to fill it as follows. In the first, third and fourth - 4 light threads, in the second - 4 dark threads. In the next 10 boards we insert one dark and one light thread into the holes located diagonally. And then in two boards - four light threads, in one - 4 dark threads and in the last - 4 light threads.

Now we collect the boards in a pile. We fold it so that along the top there are threads of the color needed in the design. Our simple boards are located along the edges, and the patterned ones are arranged so that dark threads run along the top. This is how the threads are arranged for the first row.

In general, at the beginning of the belt I always weave several rows without a pattern, just in stripes. And only then I start drawing.

We wind the ducks onto the shuttle. It is better to take it in the same color as the main thread, but you can take it thinner. Mine is light.

We fold the edges of all the threads evenly and tie a knot. We tie a lace or rope to this knot. This will be the beginning of our work. We fix the second end to something stationary. Just above the waist we tie a belt around ourselves and tie a cord to it. The weaving threads must be well tensioned. When we stretch the threads, a hole is formed between the upper and lower threads - the pharynx. We will insert a weft thread into this shed.

Carefully turn all the planks 90 degrees towards you. The threads change places. And you can again insert wefts into the throat. It doesn't need to be tightened too much, but it shouldn't hang loose either.

In order for us to get the required pattern, we need to constantly monitor which threads we have on top. Simple planks always rotate 90 degrees, but patterned ones must be rotated depending on the pattern.

By turning a couple of patterned boards along with the simple ones 90 degrees twice, we thereby leave the first color at the top. But at the next turn it should go down. Therefore, we look at the drawing: if, according to the pattern, the weft should go down at the next insertion, then we turn this pair of planks as usual, 90 degrees.. If we see that this color should remain at the top in this place, then we turn the board 270 degrees, i.e. three-quarters of a turn, so that the desired color is again at the top. And we do this with all pairs of patterned boards, strictly following the pattern. And don’t forget to lay wefts after each turn.

If you have to interrupt work, you must definitely fix the boards in the position in which they were at the end of the work. You can secure them with a rubber band or a large pin, threading it through the holes on the boards. Then, starting work after a break, you will not confuse the drawing.

The more pairs of patterned boards, the wider and more complex the pattern that can be made on them. There is only one indispensable condition - smooth stripes must be placed along the edges of the pattern, made on ordinary boards. And the ornaments themselves can be taken in a variety of different ways.

To make the drawing clear, you need to be very careful. Each flaw will be clearly visible on the product. The first time it will work out slowly, over time, with practice, the work will move faster and easier.

Now, in this century modern technologies, many craftswomen weave belts on planks using special devices that allow the weaver not to become attached to her creation. These are something like this.

I hope I explained and showed the whole process clearly enough. And if you take up this task, it will give you a lot of pleasant moments and the result will please you.

I wish you success, dear readers! Share your achievements in the comments.

Braided belts have accompanied people for a long time. Such belts were tied over clothing and were a mandatory element of the look. They were woven from wool and linen threads. Belts were narrow, wide, simple and patterned. A belt is a stylish and important wardrobe detail. It is not always possible to match a belt to your clothes. The solution to this issue can be quite simple. Make your own woven belt! It can be woven from threads, rope, braid and ribbons.

Required materials and tools:

• twine or twine;
• scissors;
• belt buckle;
• two boards;
• threads;
• cotton ribbon;
• sewing machine.

Braiding a braid for a belt

To make a woven belt with your own hands, choose a buckle so that its width is equal to the width of the belt. Cut 15 strands of twine, 2 meters long (this is average length(if your belt turns out to be long, you can easily cut off the excess). Now take two planks and place all the strands of twine between them. Then clamp the sides of the boards for further convenient work with the ropes. Divide the threads into 3 groups of 5 threads and begin weaving. The braid should be flat. After braiding the braid, secure the last threads.

Wrapping the buckle

Cut about 50cm of twine and wrap around the buckle pieces, starting from the bottom edge. Use glue for the first and last skein. Use it to secure the ends of the twine to the buckle. Continue until you have covered the entire surface of the buckle. Secure with glue. Clear hot glue works well for this and won't leave any marks on the rope.

Sew the ribbon

Carefully remove the clips from the top of the braid. Will you add more if necessary? braid Fold the cotton ribbon in half and stitch along the long edge on sewing machine and then sew the sides together. Thread the top end of the braid through the buckle. Place a sewn ribbon over the top of the braid and secure with a clip. The tape should be between the braid and the top threads.

Sew

Then stitch along the top edge, next to the buckle. Now use your sewing machine to sew a line below the ribbon parallel to the first seam near the buckle. This seam should secure the tape to the braid. Cut off the excess length from the threads and trim the ends.

Sew the other end

Place the belt around your waist and decide how long it should be. Bend the ends of the threads from the other raw edge back. Sew along the folded edge using a sewing machine. You can also make this seam by hand or use a hand stitch. Carefully cut off any excess long threads and trim the ends. Ready! This DIY woven belt will perfectly highlight the curve of your waist and go with almost any outfit.

“Fly a leaf to the east onto the chest of a white man who is dear to my heart and I give it as a souvenir”- red, white, blue threads twist, intertwine, twist, these simple, but words of immense hope appear on the narrow bright canvas...

“Untie your belt, give way to the earth!”

There are few moments when folk clothes were unbelted, and all of them were extraordinary.

Conspiracy with otherworldly forces

Closing around the belly ( life) a person, the vest protected him from all evil - emanating from people, elements, otherworldly forces. But there were cases when a person, of his own free will, removed the amulet and opened up.

• The Russian shirt turned out to be unbelted when the owner went to look for treasure, to extract fern color on Kupala night - the treasures were not opened in any other way, the fern did not show a flower.
• The girl, wanting to know her betrothed, took off her belly-up and put it under her pillow at night, saying: “My belt, belt, show the groom and the train.”
• In some provinces they believed that woven "one day" a sash made from the remnants of flax, which must be worn alone over clothing, allows you to see all your deceased relatives on Radunitsa (Parents' Day, Tuesday of St. Thomas Week).
• The young woman, entering the room for her first wedding night after the wedding and feast, takes off her wedding belt and throws it on the stove (according to another version, this is done by the husband) - this is how she entrusts herself to the owner of the house, the brownie, and her husband, recognizing the latter as the complete master over her belly (life).

In ordinary life, only sorcerers, werewolves, and witches did not girdle themselves, so as not to trap themselves and lose their strength.

Childbirth, pregnancy

Folk dresses did not imply frequent changes: the woman gave birth in whatever she was wearing and where she was - in the field, in the meadow, in the barnyard, in the hut. Often the birth was difficult, then they untied the sash and vest from the woman in labor, and unraveled her braids. The women who were present during childbirth and helped the midwife did the same.

It happens that even now, when sending a daughter or granddaughter to give birth, they order her to let down her hair, undo buttons, and untie ties if they end up on her clothes.

And in distant Siberian villages, some old women healers still treat infertility by forcing a boy to tie a sash on a woman. You need to wear it constantly: they say it helps.

However, it is better for the woman herself to make such belts for pregnancy, for the birth of a child. Therefore, below we will tell you how to weave a lace in the most in a simple way- twitching.

We weave a thin belt - under the body, for a Russian sundress or blouse - on the fingers

The twitching technique is the simplest and most ancient of all the many that are now known.

• To weave a strong cord, take 5 threads of the same thickness, the same color or multi-colored, 2 times longer than the future product.
• The threads are folded in half, the free ends are collected in a bundle, securely fastened to something at chest level, the loops are put on the fingers - the index, middle, ring of the right hand; middle and index - left (Figure A).
• The free working finger is the left ring finger. They grab the loop from the right index finger and pull it through other loops on the right hand (Figure B).
• Now there are 2 loops on the right. They are transferred to the index and middle finger, freeing the ring finger, which becomes a worker and performs the same manipulations as the ring finger of the left hand - in a mirror.

…You can talk a lot about belts: how they were tied, woven, decorated, how much a girl was supposed to make before marriage, which one to go with a wedding suit, how to protect livestock and home with their help. If these stories seem interesting to you, we will definitely return to them.

I would like to add one thing: studying architecture and aesthetics folk costume, its smallest details, you are convinced of the extraordinary wisdom of our ancestors, in the obvious possession of amazing knowledge that we have yet to revive and assimilate.

A braided belt always looks very impressive. It can be worn with jeans or trousers, and if it is very thin, over a blouse or tunic.

It is not difficult to make such a belt with your own hands. We only need a buckle and threads for weaving. The buckle can be taken from an old belt. This is very convenient if the belt is worn out and you don’t want to throw it away. An old buckle will sparkle in a new way in a beautiful frame!

You can weave a belt from laces, twine, leather ropes, braid, satin ribbons etc. Choose what you like and suits you. Even fabric tightly twisted into strands will do.

How to make a belt?

We fix our threads for weaving at the base of the buckle and begin to weave according to the diagram. This simple weaving in the macrame style seems difficult only at first glance. You can secure each end of the cord to prevent them from running away from you as you braid. You can come up with weights for them (hairpins, for example), or you can ask someone close to you to come to the rescue and hold the unruly laces. However, if you know how to braid and do hairstyles, you can handle macrame in no time.