To an uninitiated person, it seems that sewing a skirt is not a difficult task. In reality, this is far from the case.

After all, the beauty of even the simplest skirt is that it fits well on the figure. And for this it must be perfectly worked out.

FABRICS

A variety of fabrics are suitable for skirts: from cotton to wool.

Naturally, for summer skirts better use cotton fabrics. They are hygroscopic, wash well, but, however, they wrinkle a lot.

Therefore, we recommend sewing skirts intended for work from cotton or linen fabrics containing artificial fibers.

Such fabrics wrinkle less and retain their shape well. Silk fabrics, both natural and synthetic, due to the fact that they are flexible and drape well, are most often used in elegant clothes, sun and half-sun skirts, and skirts with frills. And finally wool fabrics- you can’t do without them if you are planning to sew a classic skirt. But even in this case, it is better to prefer wool blend fabrics with the addition of synthetic fibers. The skirt will be

much more practical: it will retain its shape longer, will not wrinkle, and will require less maintenance. However, keep in mind that with a large percentage of added synthetic fibers, the fabrics become excessively stiff, and this is for women's

skirts are not at all advisable.

For thick woolen fabrics, the stitching frequency should be 4-5 stitches per 1 cm, and the following threads and needles should be used:

Cotton threads for stitching - No. 40 and 50,

Silk threads for finishing stitches - No. 33A,

Machine needles - No. 90-100.

Don't forget that the color of the thread should match the color of the fabric.

FOLDS

To ensure that the folds on the skirt are clearly fixed and do not move during wear, when grinding them down, be sure to secure them on the wrong side with a stitch located across the allowance, thereby securing the entire width of the fold. This must be done both with one-sided folds (1) and with counter folds (2), and in both directions.

If the allowance for the fold does not extend along the entire length of the part, then lay the securing stitch from the front side, after carefully sweeping and ironing the fold (3).

POCKETS

Most often we are used to seeing on skirts internal pockets in the seams and internal pockets with detachable side parts. The first were discussed in detail in the previous article, when we discussed the processing of the dress.

This time we will introduce you to how to make internal pockets with cut-off side parts. The pattern of the side parts is usually made in one piece with the bottom burlap. Accordingly, she should cut out the top burlap.

On the front panel of the skirt, sew the cut of the entrance to the pocket with burlap (seam No. 2), folding it and the main part with the right sides inward (4).

Lightly iron the seam and, turning the burlap to the wrong side of the skirt, sweep it out, releasing a 1 mm edge from the side of the skirt panel, then iron it and stitch it to the width specified by the model. Now take the side piece, one-piece with the bottom burlap, place the front panel with the top burlap stitched on it, aligning the pocket openings, and baste. Align the sections of the burlap, stitch them together and overcast them (5). Make fastenings along the edges of the entrance to the pocket by stitching the main panel onto the side part by 2-3 cm on each side, the ends

secure the stitches. The pocket is ready.

On sun-cut skirts, pockets are often processed into a frame, but the technology for processing them is no different from processing such pockets on a dress, only the shape of the burlap changes. Cut the burlap in such a way that it is convenient to hold it in

pocket the hand, in other words, bringing the shape of the burlap closer to the shape of the palm.

After the darts, folds and pockets have been processed, you can stitch side seams. Use seam number 1 for this - seam allowances are usually pressed towards the front panel. But if the fabric is dense, then first iron the seams “on the edge”, and then

iron it out. If the skirt has internal pockets with cut-off side parts, it is best to iron the side seam allowances towards the back to avoid excess thickness. In skirts with a godet cut, the seams are pressed differently: from the waist to the beginning of the flare, the seams are pressed or pressed as usual. The lower part of the seam is ironed “on the edge”. In this case, the wedges fall gently and look very beautiful.

SLIDES AND CUTS

Very often, the seams of skirts end with vents or slits. Let's start with something simpler - cuts.

To process a short cut (5-15 cm), which is a continuation of the seam, normal seam allowances are sufficient; the lower corners are sewn with a hem allowance (6).

In order to process a long cut (over 15-20 cm), you should worry about wider seam allowances (4-5 cm) when cutting the skirt. Iron the seam allowances along the cut. Finish the bottom corners with a hem (7). It is recommended to lay a horizontal securing stitch (8) at the top of the cut.

To process the vent when cutting, it is also necessary to leave allowances 4-5 cm wide. Treat the upper side of the vent with a one-piece allowance, folding it along the continuation line of the seam, and iron it. Finish the seam allowance on the bottom side of the vent with a strip of main or lining fabric (9). Finish the bottom corners with a hem allowance (similar to processing the corners of the cut). On the right side, place a securing stitch to the width of the seam allowance (10).

ZIPPER

The fastener is processed after stitching the darts, folds and seams. It is usually done in the left side seam or in the middle seam of the back panel.

Iron the edges of the fastener along the continuation lines of the seam and stitch onto the zipper in one of two ways.

First, the lines are placed at a distance of 0.5 cm from the folds (11). And the second - the zipper is shifted and the back panel of the skirt is adjusted to the edge of the zipper, placing the fold near the teeth, and the front panel - at a distance of 1 cm from the fold (12).

PROCESSING THE UPPER CUT OF THE SKIRT

The upper section of the skirt can be trimmed with a belt or bodice. That part of the belt, which after stitching will be its outer side, is duplicated from the inside with a spacer.

In skirts made of thin fabrics, first sew the belt on the wrong side, leaving some room for the fastener (13). Sew two hangers made of braid into the same seam, placing them on the sides. Then, having sewn the ends, fold the belt over to the front side of the skirt, fold the free edge by 0.7 cm and stitch to the edge, closing the stitching seam (14). At the end of the belt from the side of the front panel of the skirt, sweep

loop, and on the protrusion of the reserve under the fastener on the side of the back panel, sew a button according to the loop.

In skirts made of dense fabrics and in lined skirts, it is recommended to sew the belt with an open cut to reduce the thickness. Please note that the belt is stitched after the lining has been basted. First, sew the belt to the skirt from the front side, folding the parts with the right sides inward. Then bend the belt along the line

fold to the wrong side of the skirt, baste, avoiding distortion of the fabric, and stitch to the edge on the front side, thereby securing its inner

Part. Don't forget to stitch in the hangers. The free section of the belt must first be overcast (15).

Above the darts or pockets of the skirt, you can sew belt loops, processed with seams No. 15 and No. 16. First, insert one end of the belt loop into the seam of the belt, bend the other by 0.7 cm and stitch it to the upper edge of the belt.

When processing the upper cut of the skirt with a grosgrain ribbon, first it is adjusted to the wrong side of the skirt at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge of the ribbon and 0.7 cm from the edge of the skirt (16). Two hangers are also placed into the stitching seam of the tape, placing them on the sides. Then fold the grosgrain ribbon over to the right side and stitch it onto the edge of the skirt, closing the stitching seam (17). Tuck the ends of the tape inside and stitch or

sew by hand. After this, bend the braid to the wrong side of the skirt and iron it. Place a stitch along the front side, departing 0.5-1.5 cm from the top edge, depending on the model (18).

HEMISHING THE BOTTOM

Depending on the fabric and cut, the bottom of the skirt can be hemmed in different ways.

The bottom of skirts made of cotton fabrics is processed with seam No. 4 - hem with a closed cut, the width of the hem in straight skirts is 4 cm, in flared ones - 3 cm.

The bottom of skirts made of woolen fabrics is hemmed with seam No. 10, the width of the hem remains the same.

We recommend hemming the bottom of skirts with a “sun” or “half-sun” cut, or heavily flared skirts using a machine using a double hem stitch (seam No. 14) or a hem seam with an open cut with preliminary overcasting (seam No. 7), stitch width

1 cm (19). If you are sewing a skirt with pleated or ruffled pleats, then the bottom of the skirt needs to be hemmed before taking the cut fabric to the atelier. Otherwise, it will be difficult to iron the folds along the bottom later.

LINING

The skirt lining is cut according to the details of the main pattern. If the skirt has pleats, when cutting the lining, the folds need to be “closed”, that is, folded in, and the excess fabric at the waist should be tucked into darts.

At the bottom, the lining should be 2-3 cm shorter than the skirt.

If the skirt does not have vents or slits, slits in the side seams (15-20 cm long) are left on the lining to ensure freedom of movement. If the skirt according to the model has slots or slits, then the cuts on the lining should correspond to them.

After all the darts and seams of the lining are sewn, baste it to the top edge of the skirt, folding the skirt and lining with the wrong sides facing inward.

Only after this proceed to processing the belt. Where the skirt is cut, the lining is sewn manually or by machine to the seam allowances (20).

In a skirt with a vent, when cutting the lining, provide a seam that should coincide with the allowance line for the vent (21). Sew the lining along the continuation of the seam to the allowances on the vent (22).

There is an easier way. Cut the lining without additional seams, and in the place of the slit or vent, cut an arched section of fabric to the height of the vent or slit. Overcast the edges of the neckline (its width is 4-5 cm), fold it 0.5 cm to the wrong side

rhona and stitch (23). There is no need to secure the lining to the cut - it will not be visible when walking. It's very simple and comfortable view processing.

Now all that remains is to iron the skirt.

During sewing, you have to repeatedly adjust the bottom of the skirt. Let's find out a few simple ways aligning the hem of the skirt.

How to straighten the bottom of a skirt

1. After the product is ready (a zipper is sewn into the skirt and all the seams are finished), it needs to be attached, preferably at the waist, to a rope. Clothes pins are attached to the bottom edge of the skirt.
2. For a better effect, you can wet the skirt with water.
3. It is necessary to leave the product in this position for several days.
4. After this, you can try on the new thing and select the desired length.
5. The bottom edge is hemmed.

How to process a vent on a skirt

The key to a beautiful appearance of a skirt lies in the correct processing of the vents. This is a very simple operation that will not take much time.

• To make a slot on the back panel, you need to use the correct drawing.

• The spline allowances must be duplicated on both the left and right edges of the canvas.
• The allowances on the slot must be ironed to the left side.

• The allowance that is left to fold the bottom edge needs to be overcast and ironed inside out.
• The two halves of the slots are folded and the level is adjusted (you need to make sure that they are at the same level).

• Use pins to mark the line where the product will be sewn.
• Don't forget that the left seam allowance needs to be sewn to the bottom edge of the skirt. Everything is ironed out. The slot is processed!

How to finish a slit on a skirt

At first it may seem that the slit on the skirt is just a minor decoration of the appearance, but in fact it is not. The cut creates not only a good overall picture, but also corrects the figure, emphasizing the beauty of the legs. Cutouts often help transform a formal look into a more elegant one.

• When sewing a seam, immediately make a cut and reinforce the place where the stitching ends. This will prevent possible seam tearing.
• The cut seam must be ironed.
• After this, you need to cut a strip from the fabric and fold it several more times (preferably 4 times) - it will help strengthen the cut.

• The fastener is sewn first on one and then on the second stitching seam.

• To be sure, you can also sew the fastener along the edges.
• Also, do not forget to stitch the fastener on the seam allowances.
• Excess fabric must be trimmed. That's all! The incision is processed and there is a guarantee that no trouble will happen.

How to finish the hem of a skirt

There are many ways and seams that can be used to finish the hem of a skirt. But before starting the process, remember - you need to straighten and stretch the bottom of the skirt. Typically, the hem is finished with an overlocker or bias tape.

• First, the bottom of the skirt is folded inside out by about 1 centimeter, and the fold that has formed must be basted.

• Please note that for straight skirts the width of the folded hem can be 3-4 centimeters, and for flared ones it can reach 2.
• The bottom edge can be sewn either with blind stitches or using a machine.

Before work, you should consider: the density of the fabric, the thread to match the fabric and the style. The bottom of products made from dense fabrics is treated with bias tape, and it happens that it is folded several times. The bottom of a classic-style skirt is best processed by hand, without a machine. And also, it is desirable that the thread with which everything will be stitched matches the fabric. In some cases, you can afford to buy threads 1 or 2 shades darker.

How to narrow a skirt to the bottom

• The skirt is fitted to the owner and chalk marks are made according to which the product needs to be narrowed.
• The seams are steamed and ironed.
• Marks made with chalk are also transferred inside out. You can use a template to connect the marks with a smooth line and thus make new style skirts.

• The skirt is pinned, and the straight seam is sewn down and ironed.
• Allowances are cut to one and a half centimeters.
• The sides are pinned and stitched as close to the zipper as possible.
• The bottom edge is stitched at a distance of 2 centimeters and that’s it, you get a completely new skirt.

How to style the bottom of a skirt

At this stage, the most important thing is imagination and creative perception. There are many options for designing the bottom of a skirt, let's look at examples of the most common ones.

How to process the bottom of a skirt: video

How to hem a skirt largely determines the overall appearance and the impression of the finished product. Therefore, I dedicate a separate master class to processing the bottom of the skirt. Let's take a closer look at how to properly hem a pencil skirt and several other options for processing the bottom.

The first thing to do is try on the skirt and determine its final length. When trying on, make a mark on the front at the desired height, we will use it as a guide.

Fold the skirt so that the side seams are aligned, and the folds are in the middle of the front and back panels of the skirt.

The pencil skirt is tapered at the sides, so when laid out on a table, its bottom has a curved appearance. This is completely normal for a tapered skirt. The smaller the taper, the straighter the hemline. For a straight skirt it is completely straight.

Before hemming the skirt, draw a hem line. We draw a line through our mark to the side seam. This line should be at a 90° angle to the fold of the front panel of the skirt (can be checked with a triangle). We do the same with the rear panel.

These two lines converge at one point on the side seam and form an angle that needs to be smoothly rounded. To do this (preferably using a pattern), draw a smooth line a little lower. We got the bottom line of the skirt - Fig. 2.

Pin the skirt along the first line to secure the two layers of fabric. Now we cut off all the excess along the cut line - Fig. 4.

We continue processing the bottom of the skirt - we sew the cut, turn it inside out exactly along our line, and pin it with pins. We do this along the entire bottom of the skirt - Fig. 6.

To hem the skirt evenly, carefully iron the fold from the wrong side. Try not to hit the pins with the iron - they leave marks.

Fig.7. How to hem a skirt

After removing the pins, you can iron it again.

All that remains is to work with a needle and thread. Classic skirts are most often hemmed with a hidden seam by hand or by machine. If your machine performs blind stitching and its quality suits you, then this option is also possible. Here we will look at the most, in my opinion, reliable and impeccable in quality - hand-made blind stitch - Fig. 8.

Fig.8. How to hem a skirt

How to hem the bottom of a skirt with a hidden seam

The thread and needle should be thin. This is especially important for thin and dense fabrics, when it is very difficult to make stitches invisible.
We begin hemming the bottom of the skirt from the vent (if there is one) or from the side seam.

The seam should not run along the edge of the allowance, but 3-5 mm below. It is most convenient to bend the bottom of the skirt to the front side, so that the edge of the allowance sticks up - Fig. 8.

Using a needle, hook the fabric so that it penetrates the thickness of the fabric without piercing it through. You can grab more for the allowance. The distance between needle punctures is 5 mm.

Fig.9. How to hem a skirt

The thread should run freely - Fig. 9. Tightening the thread will not make the seam stronger. Every 10 cm of seam, stretch the stitched section of the bottom of the skirt so that the thread relaxes. The longer the fabric stretches, the weaker the thread should be. Then the seam will not tear when worn.

If you are sewing a skirt with a vent, combine the processing of the bottom of the skirt with the processing of the vent.

How to make a double wide hem at the bottom of a skirt

Another option - how to hem a skirt - suitable for models sporty style- denim skirts, cotton and linen skirts with stitching. We hem the bottom of the skirt with a double hem and stitching. The hem can be quite wide - up to 8 cm.

Fig. 10. How to hem a skirt

The internal fold of such a hem can be narrow - 1-1.5 cm or wide, like the external one. So, for a hem 3 cm wide in finished form The allowance for processing the bottom of the skirt is 6 cm.

Procedure: draw a hem line on the front side of the skirt, iron all 6 cm on the wrong side, and now bend this 6 cm in half (cut to fold) and iron it again.

All that remains is to hem the skirt on the machine. It is better to stitch from the front side. You can pre-baste.

Finishing the bottom of the skirt with a narrow hem

If the skirt is made of fabric that is easy to process, and the bottom cut is straight or slightly rounded, then you can make a narrow double hem - Fig. 13.

The hem allowance is 2 cm. Fold it twice, 0.5-1 cm each, and stitch. If your eye is weak, do as in the example with a wide double hem using an iron.

Fig. 13. How to hem a skirt

Knitwear occupies a special place among materials. How to hem a knitted skirt, and sewing knitwear in general is a separate conversation.

Publications for the project have been completed. Taking into account today's: Processing the bottom of the skirt and final processing of the product.

If you haven’t had time to sew a tulip skirt for the holiday, there will probably be many reasons to use information on cutting and similar skirts.

I suggest you consider options and stages of processing the bottom of the skirt.

First you need to repair the bottom of the product- that is, align all the cuts, trim and trim off excess fabric if it appeared during the process of sewing the skirt.

Skirt trim.

To make the basic skirt you need:

• turn inside out;
• spread out on the table;
• bend the front and rear panels in the middle;
• combine side seams and darts;
• check the length of the skirt
• mark the line for cutting and hemming the bottom;
• trim excess fabric.

Bottom edge.

The bottom of the skirt can be processed different ways, including - or processed using braid, and you can also do the following:

• Overcast the hem allowance at the bottom.
• Sweep (pin) it onto the wrong side of the skirt and iron it.
• Place adhesive web into the ironed seam allowance and glue the seam allowance.

I like this method for its simplicity and accessibility, you just need to pay attention to the accuracy of gluing.

This method has a slight drawback– with frequent washing, the allowance may partially come off. This can be corrected by gluing that part of the lower cut that was partially deformed.

You can also baste the seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side to the edge or carefully hem the bottom of the skirt using hand blind stitches.

The method of processing the bottom of the skirt depends on the material used and the purpose of the product.. Let’s say, for a sporty version of a skirt it’s great double will do finishing stitch along the bottom, but for this it is better to use either hemming with blind stitches or the adhesive method.

The choice is yours!

Final finishing of the skirt:

Final Carry out wet-heat treatment with an iron with preliminary moistening of the fabric, while straightening the edges, seams, giving the product the required shape and eliminating irregularities, creases, seams, etc.

After final processing, the finished item must be dried in a suspended state until the shape is completely fixed.

The drying time for items made of woolen fabrics is 20-25 minutes, for items made of silk and cotton – 10-15 minutes.

IMPORTANT:, ironing work takes into account the processing modes of the fabric from which you are sewing the product!

• In the finished skirt, remove all remaining ends of the threads, traces of chalk, clean the skirt from the front and back sides with a brush or a piece of clean cloth.
• Sew the side seams and seams connecting the skirt panels from the wrong side without an iron.
• Iron the belt from the wrong side,
• Iron the bottom of the skirt from the hem side using a damp iron.

Your tulip skirt is ready!

With wishes of good luck, Elena Krasovskaya!

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Hemming the bottom of a dress, skirt or other product is the final part of working with the product. If special decorative processing is not intended for the bottom, it must be hemmed so that the seam is completely invisible from the front side. At medium density and thin fabrics It is better to hem the bottom with hidden cross stitches, and on dense heavy ones - with hidden inclined stitches.

It is advisable to use threads that are darker or the same color as the material. The width of the allowance at the bottom depends on the material and style - from 7.5 cm on a straight skirt to 4-5 cm on a wide flared skirt. Product allowance for transparent fabrics and knitwear is narrow, regardless of the model. Hemming is preceded by processing of the lower cut; the method of processing depends on the properties of the fabric. The cut along the bottom is folded, overcast by hand or on a machine, edged on easily fraying fabrics (wool, linen), and so on.

Blind stitch

The allowance along the bottom can be stitched with a secret stitch specially designed for this purpose on a machine. Thanks to this stitch, everything is done very quickly and on any fabric, including knitwear, it gives a hard, even edge. If your sewing machine has such a function, then first install a special hemming foot, and on the machine platform, install a specially designed device that adjusts the width of the seam.

Several ways to hem a product

The most common way is to fold the bottom edge, fold it again to the required width and sew with blind stitches.

- a fairly common way to hem a product. A separately cut strip of fabric makes it easier to hem products with a figured bottom edge (for example, scallops) or in case of insufficient length when cutting the product.

This method can be used for transparent fabrics or for double-sided products. It can be made using a ready-made edging or a strip of another material.

How to correctly mark the bottom line of a product

Before hemming the bottom, the product should “hang” for 24 hours, especially if the bottom cut is on the bias. After this, the product is tried on, making sure to wear shoes with heels, and the correct fit and fit are checked. To mark the line of the bottom of the skirt, you need the help of a third party who will measure the distance from the edge to the floor in a circle with a ruler. The bottom line is marked with chalk or pins along the entire circumference at the same distance from the edge to the floor. Then pin up the resulting seam allowance and check the hem while standing in a natural position in front of the mirror. The bottom of the product and the floor should be parallel.

For tops, trousers and straight skirts, transfer the hem line from the pattern to the outside of the fabric using basting or pins. Fold the hem to the wrong side and try on the product. Change the necessary parameters and try it on again. The hem line around the entire perimeter should be smooth. The method is good when there is no one to help you.

Put the product on yourself. An assistant will mark the hemming line with pins (place the pins at a distance of 5 cm from one another), measuring from the floor with a ruler or a board with markings. Pin the hem and try it on.

Check that the chalk does not leave stubborn marks. Turn the product inside out and put it on. Standing straight, do not turn quickly and make a mark every 5 cm. Pin the hem and try it on again.

Hemming the product with a single hem

When the hem allowance is folded in, the bottom edge is processed and slightly seated. In order for the hem to lie flat and look neat, when folding it, you need to match the markings of the center of the front and back parts, the lines of the side and any other seams on the product and the hem, and only then pin it with pins.

1. Inside the hem, trim the vertical seam allowances to half the width to avoid excess density.
2. Fold the hem along the marked bottom line and pin it across with pins at a distance of 5 cm from each other. Baste close to the fold.
3. On the folded fabric, mark the width of the hem evenly. Trim away excess material. Along the edge of the hem, place a landing stitch 6 mm from the cut.
4. Pull the ends of the threads, adjusting the hem until the edge lies flat. Finish the edge, press lightly and topstitch or hand baste.

The width of the web for heavy fabrics should be almost the same width as the hem itself. Overcast the cut of the bottom and use pins to secure the fusible web between the product and the hem. Press down with the iron, holding the iron in one position, moving it each time you move it to a new area. Do not run an iron over fabric.