In runet, you can find a wagon of information about how to properly organize rescue operations on any kind of relief. There are translations of foreign brochures, and, judging by the publishing program of the FAR, the rescue service is their main priority.

This, of course, is all great - the ability to help each other out in trouble, significantly increases safety ... But do you know what increases safety even more? Good technique movement on the relief, which allows you not to get into trouble.

I do not think that in the part devoted directly to the technique of movement, I will be able to report something fundamentally new, which cannot be found in a Soviet textbook of the 80s, but you will not find some of the nuances of preparing equipment and other little things there.

Driving on gentle slopes

Moving on gentle ice slopes should not present any problems for any physically healthy person. However, failures still occur on it. First of all, let's outline their reasons:

Incorrectly selected / fitted / tuned equipment. Loss of balance (for example, due to mistakes in organizing simultaneous belaying). Cats catching (which can be caused both by problems with the technique of movement, and by improper fitting of equipment) ... Eh, these are my first rescues, what nostalgia))). Incorrect movement technique - placing the cat only on the outer or inner row of teeth, squatting.

Choice of equipment for ice hikes

Let's start in order. How, after all, to correctly configure and fit individual equipment for simple ice routes? This question should be asked first in the store, then in the camp, then directly under the glacier.

Cloth

By ice trail equipment I mean boots, crampons and an ice ax. However, a few words should also be said about clothing. Of course, it must be waterproof and windproof. But in terms of safety, it is imperative that the pants are tapered to the shin, or if you are using flashlights, they should be compact enough and the adjusting ropes should be tucked securely under the fabric. Cats will constantly cling to wide ski or snowboard pants. In the best case scenario, it will end up with a messed up thing. At worst, a spoiled climber.

Boots

Firstly, it is desirable that they be at least a little warmed, even in summer, or at least they should include an additional sock. Shoes are suitable for you, starting with the "average trekking" class and above. When choosing a model and size, try to lace it up very tightly. In this position, on the one hand, the leg should not swell, and on the other hand, the bootleg, when standing on the toe, should significantly relieve your ankle. This will be extremely important when you start driving on the front teeth. Before buying boots in a store, try to knock the cape on a hard surface, walk along an incline (artificial slides are organized in stores) in order to understand at least approximately what sensations you will experience on the rise or fall.

Cats

Almost all cats are suitable for flat ice. It is worth choosing expensive and heavy technical models if you plan to go out on ice with a steepness of more than 30 ° (However, in winter, "advanced" crampons may be useful even on non-steep ice). The main thing here is that the cats fit the boots. Compatibility issues are rare, but they can still occur. Of course, only soft harness crampons are suitable for trekking boots. If you liked semi-rigid or stiff, make sure your boots have a back welt (good enough for a semi-stiff one), or a back and front welt (for a stiff one). If you are wearing shoes in size 45 or over, make sure that the length of the brace that connects the front and back of the cats is sufficient. Some boot models have a rounded toe for easy walking, however, soft and semi-rigid crampons may not be very secure on them.

Ice ax

If, after passing a gentle slope, you do not plan to climb more steep ice, you should opt for a classic ice ax, with a straight shaft and a beak without back deflection. If weight isn't too important for you, a long-shaft ice ax is a good idea to help maintain balance on steep slopes. Decide if you will bind it, and if so, how exactly. I myself do not usually tie an ice ax, but I would not advise every beginner to do the same. On a non-steep slope, you can simply clip a regular lanyard mustache into the hole in the beak of the ice ax.

Checking your equipment before departure or at the camp?

When going on ice climbing, check if your crampons' teeth and ice ax beak are sharpened.

It is very important to check whether the crampons will cling to the ropes hanging from the harness and backpack, shoe laces, flashlight adjustments. The lanyard mustache must not hang below the knee. It is undesirable to use guys longer than 25 cm - they can also get a cat's tooth stuck in them. Think about how you will remove the extra line of the cat - you can tuck it under the flashlights, tie it with a control knot, or simply cut it off if you do not plan to dress the cats on bulky shoes.

Of course, the crampons should be fitted to the boots. The cat is worn correctly if it sits on the boot only due to the friction of the vertical frame elements against the rubber.

A correctly adjusted cat can hold itself even without a brace and a frog. There is no gap between the toe of the shoe and the platform of the cat. Thus, the blow is the most effective.

Donning equipment

Put on your gear in advance. You should not go out onto the glacier along the snowfield, then suddenly find ice under your feet and, shaking with fear, pull the harness over yourself and attach the crampons. When you stop, consider whether you can perform all the upcoming operations with your bare hands. If not, wear gloves whenever possible, removing them only when absolutely necessary. It is recommended to tighten the laces of the boots before starting to move on ice.

If you came under the ice without flashlights, think about whether you will need them on the glacier - they are worn under crampons, and if you have to walk in places through deep snow, you will have to stand on a self-belay right on the glacier, take off crampons, put on flashlights and crampons when hanging on an ice screw - it is better to do this in advance.

First put on the harness, and only then the crampons (this is relevant only if your harness has one-piece "legs"). Tie the ice ax to the lanyard or on a separate mustache and put the trekking poles in your backpack (if you decide to go with an ice ax). All items of equipment that you may need when moving on the glacier should be in direct access, or at the very top of the backpack.

Ice movement technique. Maintain balance, prevent cat catching.

Placing your foot on a full foot is in a much more balanced position than walking on the front teeth. Of course, four teeth penetrate ice better than twelve, but if your cats are well sharpened, this shouldn't be a problem even on hard ice. Therefore, with a slight steepness of the slope (up to 20º), put your foot on a full foot - this way it will be easier for you to maintain balance and save strength for a more difficult section.

Place your legs a little wider than if you were walking on a slope of the same steepness without crampons - this will keep your balance and your legs will not cling to one another.

Moving on an open glacier. I would only put my legs wider, and slightly turned my socks to the sides.

Photo from the American textbook "Military Mountaineering".

If you start practicing movement on the ice in class and not while climbing, find a safe area and work first without an ice ax. This will allow you to better feel your balance and focus on your footwork.

Now that you understand that it is quite possible to move on the glacier without an ice ax, take it in your hand, with your beak back. It is not necessary to squeeze strongly - in this moment it is needed only for support. Most likely, you will not be able to reach them to the ground, so on non-steep ice, up to 15 °, it is needed for safety net in the event of a fall, as well as to maintain balance if you suddenly stumbled or staggered.

What about trekking poles?

They are long enough to lean against the ground, so balance will be much easier. If you start to fall on one side, then the chances of poking into the ice with a stick and resisting are much higher than with an ice ax. However, there are two problems:

On well-used sticks, the tips are often worn out. This is not a big problem on moraines, but on ice it is a different story. Imagine you are about to jump over a small crack. You put one stick on the other side, walk, and at that moment it slides off. Not very pleasant sensations - I speak from my own experience. Actually, I wanted to cover this issue in a separate article about equipment care, but since I started talking about it - Replacement plastic tips for sticks are sold in stores. But about how to put them - really, next time. And how to hack to death? First, you can walk with one ice ax and a stick. Not so convenient, but safe. Secondly, there are sticks with a handle, from which a small beak sticks out. I think it's a very good option, although I haven't tried it myself.

Another way is to hack to death with the sticks themselves, grabbing them together with two hands about a meter from the tips. The tips MUST be sharp for this method to work. And the lanyards must be removed - otherwise the sticks will not be able to quickly intercept.

So, you go hiking. The route has been chosen, a place is booked, tickets are bought, you are standing in the middle of the room, things are spread out on the floor, a backpack is in the center and the main question of any novice hiker is: “How? How to put it all in a backpack? "

We will try to help you with this task and describe the most common principles in this article: how to choose a travel backpack; how to put it into it correctly, how to properly adjust it, how to properly wear a backpack on a hike and we will bring the most frequent mistakes, which beginners admit during the preparation before the hike.

Our article will help you correctly select travel backpack so that you do not get confused, standing in the store and looking at a huge selection of all kinds of models.

We also note that a backpack, shoes and a tent are what we recommend not to save on and to approach the choice of this equipment with particular seriousness.

Experienced tourists will confirm our words to you that there is no universal backpack and every trip has its own nuances. The first backpack will serve you as long as possible if, before you go to buy it, you already know exactly the schedule of your hikes for the season. But, even following all our recommendations, only after walking several tens of kilometers with a backpack on your shoulders, you will be able to understand exactly what kind of backpack you want to wear, and what its features are especially important for you.

The first thing to know about a travel backpack is that backpacks differ in volume, which is measured in liters. In a specialized store you can find backpacks from 40 before 130 liters. In addition, there are female and male models and models, with different types constructions.

You should also decide on the type of hike and the climatic conditions that will be along the entire journey.

So, for a winter hike, you need to take more things, which means that a backpack needs more volume. The amount of things you can do on a boat trip differs significantly from a hike in the mountains and plains. Please note that, for example, climbing Elbrus begins at a temperature of about +15 +20, and at the top it can be up to -20. We recommend that you check with the organizers of your trip in advance.

What volume to choose a backpack?

Of course, you can put all the necessary things in a small backpack, but for this you need to know how to properly pack your equipment and a lot of skill that comes with experience. In addition, with a small backpack, it is often necessary to hang large items "overboard", which can cause a lot of inconvenience. With a large backpack, the opposite is true: the temptation to put a lot of unnecessary things is too great and the weight of the backpack can become incredible.

Depending on the size and training, an adult going on a weekend hike, enough backpack in 40-65 liters.

— hiking on relatively flat terrain men have enough from 80 to 100 liters, women - from 60 to 80 liters;
— for mountain tourism men should stock up on a backpack of 90 liters, women the same 60-80 liters;
— water tourism or hiking with skis assumes the presence of additional equipment and equipment, therefore the recommended volumes are from 130 liters for men and from 80 liters for women.

These numbers are very tentative, but they will help you navigate in choosing the right backpack for your first hike. Also, do not forget about individual characteristics everyone. For example, a fragile girl can comfortably travel huge distances under backpacks of 80 liters, while young man a hike can seem like hell with a backpack and 60 liters. Everything is very individual and can only be learned in practice.

Some of the manufacturers of quality backpacks make backpacks in sizes (from S to XL) or with the ability to adjust the size yourself.

Types of backpacks:

Easel backpacks have a solid frame in their design, to which a suspension (belts, belt, webbing) and a bag are attached. This version of the backpack was very popular at the end of the last century, but now it is practically not used by tourists, because the frame is quite heavy and extremely rigid to use.

Wireframe backpack type is now the most popular type travel backpack, thanks to the most thoughtful weight distribution due to special inserts made of plastic or metal. Most often, the plates are sewn into the backpack, but there are also models with removable "armor", which simplifies the storage of the backpack (it can be folded).

Padded backpack design but due to the absence of any rigid inserts. This greatly simplifies its storage (it can be compactly folded both on a hike, if necessary, and at home when there are no hikes), however, such backpacks need to be able to be properly packed in order to make it rigid with your own things, and this not an easy task for newbies.

Constructive elements of a tourist backpack:

Webbing system- this is 80% of your comfort during the hike. The straps must be firmly attached to the frame of the backpack, be elastic and soft, all seams are well stitched, and must not slip or cut into the neck. When trying on a backpack in a store, pay attention to the buckles, they should allow the tourist to adjust the straps in the already worn and loaded backpack.

Unloading belt- redistributes the load from the shoulders and spine to the hips. The belt should be approximately level with the bones on the hips. Make sure the belt is wide and soft enough. It is very important that a comfortable buckle is attached to it, which allows you not only to adjust it as much as possible to the structure of your body, but also to quickly throw off the backpack if necessary.

Flap and pockets- they are mainly used for storing small items that are often needed during movement, or for those items that did not fit into the main volume of the backpack. And if there is a valve in all modern models, and also serves to protect things from rain, then manufacturers are abandoning pockets more and more often, because loading them, the tourist increases the volume and shifts the center of gravity of the load.

Additional hinges, ties, fasteners serve to attach to a backpack necessary tools(eg ice axes, rope, even a tent).

Lower entrance may not always come in handy, especially if you have a rug tucked around the entire perimeter of the backpack, so this detail may be considered "optional" when choosing your first backpack for a hike.

Waterproof cover on a backpack in modern models is often included. It protects your belongings from getting wet during a long transition in the rain, from dirt, and is even used to transport your backpack through the water.

Your steps in the store when buying a travel backpack:

• carefully examine the design of the backpack;
• pay attention to the quality of the fabric and seams;
• all buckles and fasteners must be strong, and the ties must pass through them freely;
• the material on the back should be soft and preferably with a ventilating insert;
• the level of fastening of the straps on the back should be approximately in the middle of the shoulder blades, if this mark is noticeably higher or lower, then you should choose a different backpack in size or height;
• adjust the backpack when loaded, fastening and tightening all possible attachments, to a perfect result.

How to assemble a backpack

There is a main rule here - competent weight distribution.

Before you start packing your backpack, make a list of the things you will need on the hike, lay things out on the floor and arrange them into groups: for example, sleeping items, general equipment, heavy items, frequently used items during the hike, bulky items, clothing.

Try to use the entire volume of the backpack and do not leave voids, because during movement, this will lead to a shift in weight in the backpack and entail a lot of inconvenience.

And now, point by point:

• at the very bottom they put voluminous things and things that will be useful only in the evening or during parking (sleepwear, sleeping bag), the tent and karemat are usually attached outside;
• the heaviest things are distributed along the back, while trying to put soft objects between things and your back, so you avoid sharp corners that will fit into your back;
• the things of the group that fell on you during the distribution, it is better to pack in a separate bag so that you can easily get them and not look for too long throughout the backpack;
• items that you plan to use frequently (camera, phone, card, medicines, water, insect repellent, etc.) should be placed on the very top to facilitate access to them;
• it is better to pack all small items in a separate container or bag so that they do not crumble in the backpack;
• documents, money, phones, chargers and everything that is a pity, it is better to pack in waterproof bags;
• fragile items and crumbling foods are best placed as close to the top as possible.
  After the backpack is assembled, put it on, adjust and walk. You should be comfortable and comfortable. If not, try moving things around to align the center of gravity of the load.

How to properly adjust the backpack

When you have decided what to pack for the hike and packed your things properly, it's time to put on your backpack and adjust it so that the trip is as comfortable as possible and does not turn into a nightmare.

The first desire - to pick up the backpack and throw it forcefully over your shoulders - should be ignored. The weight of the backpack is significant enough that such an attempt may not be successful and even lead to injury.

In order to properly adjust a tourist backpack filled with things, you should loosen the straps and put it, taking it by the handle, on some elevation (at home it can be a chair, table, pedestal), and only then put the straps on your shoulders one by one.
If there was no elevation at hand, then instead of it you can use your own leg bent at the knee

The adjustment of the backpack should be started from the lower mounts. Pull up the harness so that the buckle is halfway between your thighs. The belt should fit your hips as anatomically as possible and take up to half the weight of the backpack on itself.
Then start adjusting the shoulder straps. It is worth pulling them up not too actively, so as not to transfer all the weight from the unloading belt to the shoulders, but also not too weakly so that the backpack does not lean back when walking. Make sure that the straps do not dig into the neck, and the chest strap does not interfere with free breathing and movement.
If this is your first experience of collecting and adjusting a backpack, then we recommend walking around the apartment or even walking around the yard in order to fit it as accurately as possible. If you are not comfortable, it is worth taking out unnecessary things or redistributing weight inside the space of the backpack.

How to wear a backpack correctly

In order to understand how to properly carry a backpack, just follow the rules that we outlined above:

1. It is not worth saving on a backpack, but we also would not recommend buying the most expensive first backpack thoughtlessly.
2. The backpack is not worth buying online. Better to spend a little time, go to the store, try everything on.
3. You need to choose a backpack based on: a) your own anatomical features and preferences (no one canceled the concept of a "beautiful backpack"), b) the conditions of the hike (hiking, mountain, water, etc.), c) the quality of materials, threads and accessories, d) own feelings.
4. The heaviest things in a backpack should be located along the back, the most necessary - on top, those that will be needed only in the evening - at the very bottom.
5. There should be no voids in the backpack.
6. A correctly worn and adjusted backpack is comfortable to wear, does not move anywhere when moving, and fits snugly.
7. With a collected, adjusted backpack, it is worth walking around, trying to bend in different directions, making sure of your own confidence in your movements.
8. Please note that personal items during the hike should not exceed 10 kg! To them will be added another 4 to 12 kg (depending on the duration and autonomy of the hike and your gender). The normal weight of a backpack for a hike of medium difficulty for 10 days for a girl is about 17 kg, and for a man about 23 kg.

We wish you only the best hiking experience, and we hope our article will help you choose your perfect first tourist backpack.

We also have helpful articles on choosing other equipment you need for hiking.

All players' protective equipment, clothing and footwear must comply with generally accepted ice hockey standards. It is the player's responsibility to ensure that the equipment used is in accordance with the specification of the official rules.
All equipment used by athletes must comply with the IPC Sports Advertising Rules for IPC Forms and Trademark Use. The IPC ISH STC (IPC Sledge Hockey Technical Committee) adheres to the decisions of the HECC (Ice Hockey Equipment Certification Committee) as the governing body for the approval of all ice hockey helmets and face masks for players and goalkeepers.
A list of IPC ISH STC approved player equipment can be found in Appendix 3.

Player equipment

Players' equipment includes a sled, seat, skate restraint, skate, clubs and hooks.

300 - Sleigh

a) The sled frame must be made of the following approved materials: steel, aluminum, titanium and magnesium. The frame must be cylindrical with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.
b) The width between the main sides of the frame must be at least 15 cm (measured from the outside of the frame) and not more than the width of the sled seat. The sides of the frame can be tapered under the seat to accommodate skates; the taper angle should not exceed 45 degrees.

The frame may protrude from the rear of the seat by no more than 1 cm.
The skate retainer can be located at the rear of the frame, however, the frame should protrude 1 cm beyond the end of the skate.
c) The front of the frame shall be the longest arc with a maximum radius of half (1/2) of the inner width of the frame (measured at the widest in front of the seat).
The following materials can be used in the manufacture of this part: steel, aluminum, titanium, magnesium and polyurethane.

d) The frame may have a maximum (4) of four crossbars and one step bar in front of the seat. Cross bars can be square or cylindrical in shape with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.

e) The height of the main frame, measured from the ice surface to the base of the frame, must be a minimum of 8.5 cm and a maximum of 9.5 cm.

f) The player's seat may fit on the skate retainer as long as it is not lower than 5 cm from the surface.

g) For Athletes with Double Amputation, the frame must be:

1. 80 cm long.
2. Place the front runner with the required minimum length of 10 cm.

80 cm minimum

301 - Footrest for heel protection

Each sled should have a footrest with a maximum width of 10 cm. If the games have one-sided amputation, a second stump footboard (maximum width 10 cm) can be used.

302 - Front runner

The sled must have one runner. This runner must be attached to the frame no more than 3 cm from its front end. The runner must be attached to the center of the frame. Its length: 10 cm minimum and 20 cm maximum. The height of the runner, measured from the base of the frame to the surface of the ice, shall be 7 cm minimum and 9.5 cm maximum.

Material:

a) The skid can be made of the same material as the main frame. If it is made of a similar material, then it must have a cylindrical shape with a diameter of at least 1.5 cm and not more than 3 cm.
b) The skid can be made of nylon / plastic. It can be solid and have a width of at least 1.5 cm and no more than 3 cm.

303 - Footrest for protecting legs

A footrest is essential for all players, regardless of disability category. It must be made of the same material as the main frame and be at least 1.5 cm in diameter and no more than 3 cm in diameter.
- The footrest can be of different heights (depending on the player's foot size), but must not be less than 15 cm in height.
- The footrest must not extend beyond the main frame and be higher than the foot / feet of the player.

304 - Skate

Each sled must have a minimum of one (1) and a maximum of two (2) skates placed parallel under the seat. There is no limit on the minimum width between skates. The maximum width is the seat width. Skates must be at least 16 cm long and no more than 32 cm. The blades of the skates must not protrude more than 1 cm from the front or back of the skate retainer.

305 - Seat

a) The seat must be made of suitable material and not have sharp ends (rounded ends). The frame may protrude from the rear of the seat by no more than 1 cm.
b) The maximum height from the base of the seat to the surface of the ice is 20cm. The measurement is taken from the ice surface to the lowest edge of the main body of the seat (see figure below).
c) Removable seat cushions, or fixed padding, or a combination of both, must not exceed 5 cm in height or extend beyond the seat.
d) No external protection or protrusion behind the rear of the seat shall exceed 1 cm.
e) Straps and / or adhesive tapes may be used to secure players' feet, ankles, knees and thighs.

Main body, yellow

306 - Player Stick

The stick must be made of wood or some other material such as carbon steel, aluminum, fiberglass, or plastic. It must not have any irregularities and all corners must be rounded.
Sticky, non-fluorescent tape of any color can be wrapped anywhere on the golf club.
Dimensions:
Maximum length - 100 cm from the heel to the end of the stick Stick: Minimum width - 2 cm Maximum thickness - 2.8 cm The stick must be straight
Hook: Maximum length 32 cm from heel to end of the hook Maximum width 7.5 cm

Hook: Maximum length 32 cm from heel to end of the hook Maximum width 7.5 cm

The player's club hook can be bent. The club hook must be bent so that the perpendicular line, measured from a straight line from any point on the heel to the hook end, does not exceed 1.5 cm.

307 - Sticks and Heels

The depth of the heel teeth should not exceed 4 mm. The heels should be attached to the lower or thickened end of the pole and not end in a single point, but have at least 6 teeth of equal length (minimum 3 on each side) in order to avoid damage to the ice surface.
Each toe in the heel must not be tapered or end with a sharp needle-shaped end in order to avoid stabbing wounds or possible cuts, both intentional and accidental. The heel can be any durable material, including steel, and should be no longer than 10.2 cm (4 inches). The heel should not protrude beyond the end of the integral part of the club by more than 1 cm. The heel can be chamfered, but should not exceed 1 cm at any angle.
Heel:

Minimum thickness - 3.20 cm

Equipment

308 - Form

All players and goalkeepers of each team must wear the same colored jersey, shorts, gaiters and helmets (except for the goalkeeper, who is allowed to wear a helmet that is different in color from the rest of the players on the team).
a) The base color must be approximately 80 percent of the color of each part of the uniform, excluding numbers and names.
b) Sweaters, including sleeves, and leggings must be of the same color.
c) Sweaters must be worn in such a way that no part of them hangs below the level of the sled.
d) Each player must be individually numbered 25 to 30 cm high on the jersey in the center of the back and 10 cm high on both sleeves. Rooms are limited from 1 to 99 inclusive.
e) The captain must have the letter "C" and the deputy captains the letter "A", 8 cm high, in a contrasting color, located on the front of the jersey, in a conspicuous place. In IPC Competitions, each player must have a family name on the back of their jersey, in the center of the top, in printed Latin letters 8 cm high.
1. Any player or goalkeeper who does not meet these requirements must not be allowed to play.
2. If, in the opinion of the head referee, the colors of the competing teams are so similar that there is a possibility of erroneous actions when imposing penalties, it is the responsibility of the home team to replace their jerseys if requested by the head referee.
3. If the player has long hair and they cover the name or number patch on his sweater, his hair tied up in a ponytail or tucked under his helmet.

Protective gear

Protective equipment includes: helmet, full face mask, gloves, throat protection, mouth guard, skin protection, elbow pads and shoulder pads.

309 - Helmet

All players must wear HECC-compliant ice hockey helmets with a securely fastened chin strap during play and during the pre-game warm-up. The helmet should be worn in such a way that the lower edge of the helmet is located no more than one finger's width above the eyebrows, and the space between the helmet strap and the chin should correspond to the passage of one finger.

310 - Full face mask

During play and during the pre-play warm-up, all players must wear a full face mask that meets HECC standards. A full facepiece must be designed so that the puck, club hook or heel cannot pass through.
Colored full face masks and visors are not permitted.

311 - Gloves

During play and warm-up before play, all players must wear gloves that cover their hand and wrist. The portion of the glove covering the palm must not be removed, allowing the player to use his bare hand. All players must wear hockey gloves.

312 - Throat guard

During play and warm-up before play, all players must wear a throat guard. Medical exceptions are possible.

313 - Capa

All players are advised to wear a custom-made mouth guard during the game and warm-up before the game.

314 - Skin protection

During the game and the pre-game warm-up, all players must wear leather protection covering the area between the ankle and knee, in accordance with the category of disability.

315 - Elbow pads

During play and warm-ups before play, all players must wear elbow pads that cover the back of the elbow joint.

316 - Shoulders

During play and warm-ups before play, all players must wear shoulder pads that cover the area of ​​the shoulder and forearm between the elbow and the shoulder joint.

317 - Leg protection

All players, including goalkeepers, are advised to wear hockey boots that protect their feet and ankles (depending on the category of disability).
The safety device integrated into the frame can also serve as suitable protection if it covers the entire feet and ankles.