Knitted, sewn, fur leather and leatherette products.

It is useful to regularly inspect all clothing in order to identify damage in time, since timely minor repairs will help save your favorite items from being moved to the mezzanine or to the country house. In addition, this will help save the family budget and eliminate unnecessary expenses.

The easiest way is to take things to a workshop where they will be repaired by professionals. However, now they can tuck and hem new jeans that are too long for almost half their cost, which, you see,

very expensive. Therefore, we bring to your attention methods for repairing clothes made from various materials, which will help you keep your wardrobe in excellent condition.

Darning clothes. Types of darning

You can darn clothes if the damage to the fabric is not too severe and the material is still strong at its edges. This is necessary to secure the base of the darning, otherwise it will be impossible to accurately lay stitches that imitate the surface of the fabric. Since darning involves masking a hole in the fabric, threads of the appropriate thickness to match the product are used to perform it. If there is such a possibility, then the darning thread is pulled out from a scrap of the same fabric.

Depending on the type of fabric, the optimal type of darning is selected:

- dense;

- satin;

- patterned;

- invisible.

In this case, they always work only from the inside out, using a small convex object to tension the fabric: this can be a special darning fungus, or an ordinary incandescent light bulb or a perfume bottle suitable shape. Please note that the threads should not be taut, as after washing they may shrink a little and tighten the fabric.

Don't worry if you feel like the threads are too loose, this feeling will go away as you begin to pass the working thread between the warp threads. If the fabric is not torn, but is simply very worn out and has become thinner, it is enough to sew only split stitches.

Thick darning

Start by making the base of the darning; to do this, turn the fabric over to the wrong side and place small stitches (about 1 mm) along the edge of the hole, 8 mm away from it. When you reach the edge of the hole, simply place a stitch over it and continue sewing on the other side in the same way as in the previous rows, while the stitches should be staggered (Fig.).

Rice. Darning base

Once you have finished with the base, begin laying cross rows in the same way as you worked before. As you stitch over the hole, pick up one warp thread, pass the needle over the next, pick up the next thread, etc. (rice.). Place stitches as close together as possible.

Rice. Making cross stitches

Satin darning

Very often, the surfaces of plain fabrics are made more interesting by interweaving the warp threads. For this reason, ordinary thick darning looks alien on them, so craftswomen resort to satin darning, which is also called diagonal, imitating a pattern on fabric.

To begin, lay the same base as described above, and then make cross stitches, consistent with the pattern on the fabric.

For example, let's take fabric with diagonal stripes. To imitate them, simply pass the working thread under several warp threads (for example, three) and over the required number of subsequent threads (for example, one) (fig.).

Rice. Satin darning

Patterned darning

This type of darning is similar to the previous one, but due to the different weaves of threads, various patterns are created on the surface of the fabric (Fig.).

In this case, you can even imitate colored patterns, but then you will have to use threads of different colors.

The basis for such darning is made to match the main color of the product, and then a pattern is laid working thread the desired color, capturing a certain number of warp threads.

Invisible darning

This type of darning is only possible if the edges of the hole fit tightly together, as, for example, happens when making a cut.

Just carefully baste the edges of the hole from the wrong side, without cutting off any protruding threads, as this may widen the hole.

Then make small stitches, moving from one side of the hole to the other and grabbing the threads only from the wrong side of the fabric so that the seam is not visible from the face (Fig.).

Darning on a sewing machine

If you have a sewing machine, you can do darning on it. The easiest way to do this is if you have a special foot (fig.).

If it was not included in the set, do not be upset; you can mend the item without this device.

Start by removing the foot (unless you have a special darning foot), then lower the feed dogs. Thread the prepared product (all loose threads and frayed areas must be cut off) into the hoop (Fig.).

Rice. Threading a damaged product into the hoop

Install a straight stitch on the machine, and the stitch size is not important, since the feeder does not function. Then insert the needle into the fabric and pull the thread up from the shuttle. Lowering the presser foot lever even though it has been removed will provide the required thread tension.

Stitch along the hole, moving the hoop carefully so as not to break the needle. Next, slowly and carefully move the hoop towards you, and then in the opposite direction, laying long stitches over the hole (you need to work along the grain thread). After making the stitch, be sure to secure the thread by stitching 8-10 mm of intact fabric. Rotate the work 180° and evenly fill the entire damaged area in the same way.

Once you've finished your stitches, turn your work at a right angle and start darning along the weft. If the darning needs to be especially strong, for example, on hard, coarse fabrics, it makes sense to darn the product also diagonally.

Denim fabric is quite dense, so items made from it last a very long time. But over time, trousers can wear out inside base of the pants. It’s a shame to throw away your favorite jeans! But we won’t be sad and will show you how you can carefully and quickly save the situation and give your jeans a new life.

Master class: how to mend jeans

1. We have a small hole.

2. Glue a thick serpyanka from the inside.

3. Set the needle thicker (100), loosen the tension of the upper thread, step 2-2.3 mm, so the thread breaks less. We begin to assemble the hole by going about 1 cm into the “living” tissue. We don’t play with the backing for a long time; we sew using reverse stitching.

4. Rarely, but sometimes you have to trim the seam of a connection if a very large hole turns out to be...

5. We make basic darning stitches 2-3 times in different directions, using reverse stitches.

6. When a reliable base has already been stitched, we sew parallel to the hem, turning the jeans under the foot.

The final step is to restore the connecting seam with a denim thread that matches the color as closely as possible.

Video master class: how to mend jeans

We hope the master class was useful, and your favorite jeans got a second life! Subscribe to our updates, comment and share with friends.

To darn damage in open areas of the product, it is better to use decorative stitches that are in the arsenal of your sewing machine.

Choose a wide and “thick” decorative stitch and use it to try to make an impromptu patch on a piece of fabric to understand how it will look: stitch frequency, stitch length, coverage area. Change the default decorative stitch settings if necessary.

In one of our master classes, we talked about how you can use adhesive interlining on a woven base with a regular straight stitch.

IN in this case A piece of cotton cambric was used as a patch. The choice of material is not accidental - the shirt is made of thin linen, and the white or black adhesive fabric will be visible from the front side. In addition, it will add extra density in the darning area.

So, we make a patch on a shirt using a sewing machine, using a decorative stitch

Step 1

Cut out the patch bigger size than the location of the damage.

Step 2

Using silk threads, baste the patch to the damaged area from the wrong side.

Step 3

Place a decorative stitch on the front side, moving 5 mm from the edge of the damage. Start and end the stitching 5 mm above and below the damage site.

Place the second line in the middle, slightly overlapping the edge of the first line. And so on.

In this case, we got three decorative lines.

Step 4

On the wrong side of the shirt, cut off the exposed edges of the patch close to the stitching.

Step 5

Iron the “repair” area on the front and back sides of the shirt.

Ready! No one will notice anything.

Hand darning – delicate and painstaking work that requires a lot of time, patience, and eye strain.

Sewing machine Performs darning quickly and efficiently. Of course, we are not talking about artistic darning, which allows you to make a damaged area on good, expensive clothes invisible. Durable and reliable machine darning is good for repairing home, work and camping clothes, backpacks, camping tents, covers, and bed linen.

You can learn to darn on any machine - an old straight-stitch machine, a modern multi-operational one, manual, foot-operated, electric. How to darn on sewing machine?

To darn on a sewing machine, you need to remove the presser foot and lower the feed teeth that move the fabric while sewing.

Before you start darning, use scissors to trim the edges of the tear: cut off protruding threads, cut out worn out, frayed areas. Then stretch the area of ​​fabric to be repaired onto the hoop. Plastic hoops with a diameter of 15 cm and a height of no more than 8 mm are best suited for this (higher ones are difficult to remove from under the needle). Choose threads to match the fabric.

Set up your machine for regular straight stitching. The stitch length does not matter since the feed dog is lowered. Thread tension is the same as for normal sewing. Lower the needle into the material at the edge of the tear and pull the lower thread from the shuttle up through the material. Despite the absence of a presser foot, do not forget to lower its lifting lever, which turns on the plates of the upper thread tension mechanism.

Set the machine in motion and begin to move the hoop along the edge of the tear. Please note that now, with the conveyor teeth turned off, you can sew a seam not only forward from you, but also to the side, and at an angle - in any direction. True, you will now have to monitor the uniformity of the stitching yourself. Move the hoop smoothly, without jostling, and try not to bend the needle while it is in the fabric.

A special foot is available for beginner darners and embroiderers. It is designed in such a way that its spring presses the fabric when the needle is lowered and releases when the needle is at the top. Thanks to this, you can work without fear of bending the needle. True, not all cars are equipped with such paws. Experienced seamstresses do not use them - they believe that it slows down their work.

So, you have sewn strong stitches around the entire circumference of the tear. Now start moving the hoop towards you and away from you straight through the gap in the direction of the grains of the material. Do this slowly and evenly. Perhaps this whole operation will confuse you: how can you sew on empty space? Try it anyway, and you will see: the upper and lower threads of the machine, stretching from one edge of the break to the other, form neat intertwined flagella. Try to place them as evenly as possible to fill the entire area of ​​the gap. Once you reach the undamaged edge, stitch along the healthy fabric for about 1 cm, and then begin to move the hoop back. Having stitched the entire gap in this way, turn the hoop 90° and stitch it in the transverse direction.

When repairing thick, stiff fabrics, it is worth making stitches at an angle of 45°, and then turning the hoop again by 90° and darning along the other diagonal.

Hand darning- delicate and painstaking work that requires time, patience, and eye strain. A sewing machine will allow you to do darning quickly and efficiently. Of course, we are not talking about artistic darning, which makes the damaged area on good, expensive clothes invisible. It is better to do it manually. Robust and reliable machine darning is good for repairing home, work, and sports clothes, backpacks, tourist tents, as well as bed linen.

Darn you can learn on any sewing machine- old straight stitch, modern multi-operational, manual, foot, electric. To do this, you need to remove the presser foot and lower the teeth of the conveyor, which moves the fabric while sewing.

Prepare the item for repair: cut off the threads sticking out at the edges of the tear, cut out worn out, frayed places. Stretch the section of fabric to be repaired onto the hoop.

Small plastic hoops with a diameter of 15 cm and a height of no more than 8 mm are best suited for this (higher ones are difficult to remove from under the needle). Choose threads to match the fabric.

Set up your sewing machine for a regular straight stitch. The set stitch length does not matter since the feed dog is lowered. Thread tension is the same as for normal sewing. Put hoop under the needle. Lower it into the fabric at the edge of the tear and pull the bottom thread from the shuttle up through the fabric. Even though there is no presser foot, be sure to lower the presser foot lifter to maintain tension on the upper thread.

Now begin, moving the hoop, stitching along the edge of the gap. Please note that when the conveyor teeth are lowered, you can sew the seam not only forward, but also to the side, and at any angle. direction. True, you will have to monitor the uniformity of the stitching yourself. Move the hoop smoothly, without jostling, and be careful not to bend the needle while it is in the fabric.

A special foot is available for beginner embroiderers and darners. It is included in some machines. Darning foot and embroidery is designed in such a way that its spring presses the fabric when the needle is lowered and releases when the needle is up. Thanks to this, you can work without fear of bending the needle. True, experienced seamstresses do not use such paws, as they believe that this can slow down the work.

But now you have worked the entire circumference of the tear with strong stitches. Now start moving the hoop towards you - away from you straight through the gap in the direction of the grain threads of the material. Do this slowly and evenly. Perhaps this proposal will confuse you: how to sew from scratch? Try it anyway and you will see: the upper and lower threads of the machine, stretching from one edge of the break to the other, form neat intertwined flagella. Try to space them as evenly as possible to fill the entire hole. Once you reach the undamaged edge, stitch along the healthy fabric about 1 cm, and then begin to move the hoop back. Having processed the entire tear in this way, turn the hoop 90° and stitch it in the transverse direction. When repairing thick, stiff fabrics, it is worth making stitches at an angle of 45°, and then turning the hoop again by 90° and darning along the other diagonal.

How to patch with a sewing machine

Darn allows you to repair minor damage. But even with a precisely selected color, machine darning is quite noticeable. The ones made look much neater using a patch sewing machine.

If you have a basic lockstitch machine, this is how you apply the patch. Cut an even rectangle around the damaged area, one of the sides of which should coincide with the direction of the grain of the fabric. Make 0.5 cm cuts at the corners of the rectangle.

Fold the edges of the rectangle inside out to form a frame and baste or pin them. Prepare the flap for the patch. Its dimensions should be several centimeters larger than the cut out rectangle. Fold the edges of the flap over about 0.5 cm. Cut the corners diagonally so that there are no thickenings when folding.

Place the flap on the hole from the wrong side of the product so that the directions of the grain threads coincide. The folded edges of the patch and the hole should remain inside, between the main fabric and the patch. They should not be visible from the front side. Baste the flap.

And lastly, sew two lines on the machine, along the edge of the flap and along the edge of the inner frame, retreating 1 mm from the folds. Now the patch is ready, albeit a little noticeable, but durable, not afraid of repeated washings, equally neat on both the front and back sides.

On a sewing machine, which performs a zigzag stitch, patch even easier and faster. You don't even need to bend their edges. Choose a patch slightly larger than the hole to patch. Place it on the area to be repaired so that the directions of the grain threads coincide, and baste it to the fabric or pin it with pins. Place a zagzag stitch along the contour of the rectangle, stepping back from the edge of the flap by 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Now, stepping back another 1 - 2 cm inwards, perform a similar operation along the contour of the smaller rectangle. Remove the basting or pins. The damaged area was enclosed in a frame of two zigzag stitches. All that remains is to cut out the inner rectangle with the damaged area, and trim the outer edge of the patch along the outer zigzag seam. The seam will not allow the fabric threads to fray during washing and will not create excessive thickness. The stitching should not be too frequent, a step of 2 - 3 mm is enough. The height varies depending on the thickness and texture of the fabric. To avoid thread shedding, at least 5 to 6 weft or weft threads of the fabric should be laid at the stitch height.