You can start modeling. And one of the main modeling techniques is the transfer (translation) of the chest dart. Next I will describe 7 examples translation of the tuck, read.
Initially, the shelf looks like in this picture. The chest dart is located from the center of the chest to the shoulder seam. We will only model the shelf. Next to the shelf you see a dress. This is exactly the kind of dress you will get if you leave the chest dart as is.
The pattern can be cut out from the constructed drawing, or a copy can be made. It’s better to make a copy and leave the drawing, it will come in handy later.
To make a copy of the pattern, you will need to transfer all the contours using a cutter, carbon paper or tracing paper onto paper. We translate the contours exactly along the lines. We translate everything that is in the drawing: structural horizontal and vertical lines, darts.
If you don’t want to bother with sheets and cutters, I invite you to take a course, we’ll model on a computer and save your time. In the program, we copy the file with the base pattern with one click and begin modeling. Parametric patterns with translated darts are suitable for cutting any shoulder product: dresses, jackets, coats... And they can also be used for further more complex modeling.
Modeling
- So, we transferred the pattern for the base of the front (front half) with the chest shoulder dart from the drawing to another sheet.
- Next we draw new line position of the dart and connect it to point G7. Point G7 is the base of the chest dart.
- We cut the dart along a new line, while closing the opening of the chest dart from the shoulder and matching its sides.
- We got a new tuck, in a different direction.
This principle works in all examples of tuck translation.
Options for transferring a chest dart
1. Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line
From point G7 to any point on the armhole we will draw a new dart line. In the figure, this line is marked in red. Then we cut the pattern along the intended line, not reaching the G7 point 1-2 mm. And we will open a new dart, while closing the previous dart, which was from the shoulder seam. Thus, we got a new dart coming from the armhole line.
2. Transferring the chest dart to the side seam line
In this example, we draw a new dart line from point G7 to the side cut. This point is also chosen arbitrarily, approximately 3 - 10 cm from the armhole line. And we cut this line in the same way. We open a new dart, while closing the dart from the shoulder seam.
3. Transferring the dart to the side seam at the waist line
Similarly, we transfer the dart to the side seam at the level of the waist line. In this example, the point is located at the intersection of the waist line with the side seam. In the drawing this is point T4. We connect point T4 with Point G7 and cut the pattern along this line. We open the chest dart in a new place, while closing it at the shoulder seam.
4. Transferring the bust dart to the hemline
In this example, we lower the vertical from point G7 to the bottom line. And cut the pattern along this line. In this example, we also cut out the waist dart on the paper pattern. You can cut it in advance or after we cut the vertical from point G7. We also cut out this dart on the fabric. The main thing is not to forget about the seam allowance!
In this example of transferring a chest dart, we seem to combine two darts: waist and chest. If the dart is not sewn down, we will get an a-line dress. But then the back also needs to be made in the form of a trapezoid.
5. Transferring the chest dart to the neck line
In this example, we connect point G7 to an arbitrary point on the neck line. We cut the pattern along this line, not reaching the G7 point 1-2 mm. We open the new dart, while closing the dart from the shoulder line. Instead of a dart in this example, you can make gathers or put pleats along the neckline.
6. Transfer of the chest dart to the point of intersection of the neck line and the middle of the front
An example similar to the previous one. Only we take a point on the neckline not arbitrarily, but at the intersection with the middle of the shelf. In the drawing of the base pattern this is point A5.
We connect A5 with G7 and cut it 1-2 mm short of the G7 point. We push the lines of the new dart apart, while closing the dart from the shoulder seam.
7. Moving the chest dart to the middle front
And the last option is a dart from the middle of the shelf. This option can be with a seam from the neckline to the dart line or with a seam from the neckline to the bottom.
We do everything similarly to the previous examples. We connect point G7 with an arbitrary point on the line of the middle of the shelf. In this example, the dart line is horizontal. But it can be located at any inclination (angle) to the line of the middle of the shelf.
Here are examples of the translation of a breast dart.
Do you understand the principle?
If you have any questions, ask in the comments or at. I will be happy to answer.
Using these techniques, we can create patterns for any clothing model you like. If you liked this lesson, subscribe to new blog articles; we will model a bodice with yokes, raised seams, undercuts, draperies, etc.
© Olga Marizina
It is known that darts serve to ensure that the modeled product “fits” the figure. Note that the darts on the model can take any position, but the standards for their translation remain the same.
Video for the article
Exists two ways to transfer darts- graphic and pattern method. The graphic method is performed using the method of arcs and serifs. It is quite labor-intensive, so when modeling they mainly use the translation of darts using the template method (later, we will consider the graphical method). That is, they transfer the base pattern onto paper and use the cuts to model the darts.
Transfer of grooves on the shoulder base
On the shoulder base, darts can be directed from the shoulder, side seams, from the armhole or neckline, from the waistline or from the middle seam of the part. The main thing is to follow three rules:
- The tuck solution must be preserved.
- The top of the new dart should point toward the center of the bulge.
- If a tuck is transferred to the location of another tuck, then the tuck solutions are summed up.
(1). We take the template for the shoulder base - it is the upper part of the constructed pattern for the base of the dress.
(2). It has a chest dart - the lines are red, a waist dart - Blue colour lines and the center of the convexity is a green circle.
(3). Let us dwell in more detail on the translation of the chest dart into the side line.
We determine the location of the new dart line on the template - the blue line. We make sure that the second rule of transferring darts is observed.
(4). We cut the template along this line, we get two parts.
(5). Part 2 remains stationary, part 1 is moved, closing the chest dart and at the same time opening the dart in the side line.
(6). We outline a new outline and get a product with a dart in side seam.
(7). Similarly, you can transfer the chest dart into the neck line,
(8). In the armhole line,
(9). Using the previously described method, you can remove all the darts in the neckline. When translating, remember the rules for translating darts.
(10). During further sewing, we can create folds or gathers on the neckline; for this we will draw a new contour of the neckline.
(eleven). We can also remove the waist darts to the side. To do this, we need to set aside the size of the dart opening from the side line and draw a new side line.
Thus, on the shoulder base, you can transfer darts to any seam, the main thing is to follow the translation rules.
Partial translation
Also, we can completely get rid of the chest dart by partially transferring it to the neckline, shoulder line and armhole. You just need to remember that such a pattern without a chest dart is used when cutting a loose-fitting product. Women with a large size always need darts so that the item does not look like a bag.
First, let's measure the tuck solution. Draw cut lines to the neckline and armhole line.
We reduce the chest dart opening to 1.0 - 1.5 cm. On the neckline, we move the template along the cut line by 1.0 - 1.5 cm, and transfer the entire remaining breast dart opening to the armhole line.
(2). As a result, we get a new pattern outline.
Transfer of darts based on trousers and skirts
Most often in these products, if the silhouette is planned to be tight-fitting, it is not possible to completely get rid of darts. Darts are converted into shaped lines.
The exception is jeans pattern. The cut of jeans differs significantly from regular trousers due to their greater fit, so trouser base pattern Some changes are being made. As a rule, there is a dart on the front half of the trousers; there should not be one on jeans. To do this, we partially transfer the dart to the middle and side seams.
REMEMBER: if the dart is moved only to the middle seam, a bubble will form at the end of the zipper. This happens because the middle seam line is strongly deviated from the vertical. At the same time, if you remove the entire dart into the side seam, then a strong narrowing occurs along the side line. Therefore, the recess solution is divided in half (red and blue lines).
We've covered the basics translation of darts. Their further modeling depends on imagination, the main thing is to follow the rules for translating darts.
Hello, dear craftswomen!
Let's talk about darts, or more precisely about such modeling techniques as transferring a dart. Firstly, what is a tuck and why is it needed. The human figure is three-dimensional, has certain roundness, and when trying to attach a piece of fabric to it to create a robe, we see that the fabric does not lie evenly, bending around the bulges on the body. So, darts give us the opportunity to make a smooth transition from a bottleneck to a place with volume. A dart is excess fabric that is sewn in to give the desired shape to the product.
The main dart is a breast dart, used to go around the roundness of the chest, located on the shelf of the base pattern from the shoulder seam down to the center of the chest. In products, the chest dart can originate from any seam of the front (this is achieved using constructive modeling and is called transfer of the dart), but its end is always directed to the bulge of the chest. Of course, there are accepted canons for the location of darts - from the shoulder seam, from the side seam, from the armhole, from the waist - these are the main positions of the dart on the chest, but besides this, every designer tries to find a new, most successful, in his opinion, location of the dart, concludes it in relief, or undercut. In addition to the chest, there are also other darts, shoulder darts, to give roundness to the back of the product in the area of the shoulder and shoulder blades, waist darts - they remove excess fabric in the waist area and create a smooth transition to the hips. It is important to remember that it is better to split a too large dart opening into two, i.e. into two darts, this will help distribute the fabric more evenly and make it possible to properly iron the resulting slack at the end of the dart. Therefore, if you have any doubts about the size of the solution, it is better to use this technique.
Darts can also be converted into relief seams, which have the same constructive function, bend around the figure, repeating all the curves, but also give an aesthetic appearance to the product. Reliefs can also be simply decorative. Today we will look at ways to transfer darts, and analyze the most interesting cases using examples of dress models from modern designers. Having mastered the technique of transferring darts and shaping them into relief, you will be able to create your favorite clothing models yourself. It's not difficult at all! So let's get started.
For modeling we need a pattern - the basis of an adjacent or semi-adjacent silhouette. You can take it on our website. To do this, go to the main page of the site, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern and, after paying for the service, you can print it on a printer in A4 format and, by gluing the sheets together, get the base patterns in life size. Instructions on how to do this are on the pattern generation page.
As already mentioned, the dart for the bulge of the chest can be placed at any seam of the front, the only condition is that its top always points to the highest point of the chest. (Important! The end of the dart is located 2 cm short of the center of the chest! That is, we finish the stitching seam of the dart, reducing it to nothing, 2 cm earlier). The figure shows examples of dart translation. 
The method of modeling reliefs is extremely simple, and the main condition is also that all relief lines pass through the center, the most convex part of the figure. (or close to it). For modeling we will need the same pattern - the basis. Next, the algorithm is as follows: on the pattern detail - the basics, in in this case We took a part of the shelf, applied model lines of reliefs, making sure that the lines passed through its top. We cut along the resulting lines, and by combining the parts of the pattern we obtain the required parts. 
Let's take a closer look at modeling the chest dart. For example, let’s take the transfer of a dart into a side seam. This location of the dart is the most invisible in clothing. In this example, the dart for fitting is also transferred to the side seam, but you should know that when large size breasts, this option is unacceptable, because the solution will be too large. 
In Victoria Begham's dress, the dart on the bulge of the chest is transferred to the side seam and is decorated in relief. Modeling takes place on a pattern - the basis of an adjacent silhouette. Modeling step 1 - draw a relief line passing through the center of the chest, making an incision from the top of the waist dart to the top of the chest, and close the dart. Step 2 - cut off the side part of the relief. Step 3 - outline the decorative seam line according to the sketch (photo). 
Let's consider transferring the dart to the neck line. On a Karen Millen dress, the chest dart moved asymmetrically into the boat neck looks very impressive. Let's size the simulation. We will need a pattern shelf - the basics of a close-fitting silhouette, link, reversal. For ease of modeling, we will close the chest dart and move it down to the waist. Let's outline a new neck line and pattern cut lines that coincide with the location of future folds (darts), remember that the ends of the cuts coincide with the tops of the darts (bust centers). Let's turn the pattern pieces so that the new darts open into the neckline. All! The resulting darts can be processed as shown in the red dress with allowances on the face, or they can be laid with soft folds. 
In the Victoria Beckam FALL 2013 RTW - NYFW dress, the dart is turned into a cut-off side. How to do it? First, mark the line of the barrel, transfer the tuck solution to the fitting into the seam of attaching the barrel to the middle part of the bodice. The barrel part needs to be cut off from the pattern. Next, we make a cut from the seam of the barrel stitching to the top of the chest dart and open its solution in this place, simply by turning the parts. 
In A-shaped silhouette models with folds at the bottom, the dart is moved down. To achieve uniformity of the folds, it is not enough and it would be incorrect to simply expand the product along the bottom due to the side seams. Therefore, downward translation of the darts is used. 
Let's take the whole pattern-basis of the dress, together with the skirt, and make a cut from the bottom line up to the top of the dart, open it, turning the pattern pieces and closing the previous location of the dart. Additionally, you can add an extension along the side seams, but not more than 10 cm. 
Let's consider transferring the dart into the side seam and shaping it into relief. And again using the Victoria Beckam dress as an example. Step 1 - use a cut to connect the tops of the waist and chest darts. Step 2 - open both solutions at the highest point of the neckline, at the place of the chest dart. Let's outline the lines of the relief passing through the center of the chest, and the line of the decorative seam, based on the sketch. Step 3 - cutting along the relief line, close the dart at the highest point of the neckline, it will open in the relief line, outline the model lines of the neckline and armhole. 
Translating the chest dart into a fantasy relief in an Elie Saab dress. We proceed in the same way. First, we outline the line of the cutting barrel, and move the chest dart down to the waist. Next, we mark the relief line according to the sketch and, having cut along it, we transfer the tuck solution to the barrel stitching line, attaching the resulting piece to the middle part, see the figure. 
In Sarah Jessica Parker's dress, the dart is turned into relief from the shoulder. Everything is simple here - on the pattern-base of the shelf we draw a relief line, cut and connect the parts, we get the central part of the shelf and the side. On the side part we will mark a cutting line, as shown in the figure; as a result, we have an imitation of a sundress and a top worn inside. 
In the charming dress of American TV presenter Nicole Scherzinger, the darts on the bodice are moved to the middle seam. Modeling is carried out like this, using cuts running from the middle of the front to the tops of the chest and waist darts, the solutions are opened in a new location, then you need to cut out 2 parts of the front of the dress with a seam in the center of the dress. 
TRANSFER OF THE CHEST DART FROM THE SHOULDER SEAM TO THE SIDE SEAM
This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.
This is what our pattern looks like with darts on the shoulder seam. 
If we leave this dart here and close it, it will create the bulge we need for our chest, BUT on our dress there will be a not very attractive seam in the center of each shoulder. We don’t need this, so we will move the dart to a less accessible place - to the side seam.
Take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern, from the bottom edge of the armhole downwards, measure 5-7 cm - put a dot in this place. 
Now we find the top of our chest dart - here it is. And we draw a line connecting the top of the chest dart with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern. 
We take scissors and make a cut along this line WITHOUT REACHING 2 CM to the top of the dart. 
Now we manually close the dart on the shoulder and a new dart automatically opens in the very place where we just made the cut. That's all - all that remains is to seal the old dart with tape (so that it does not open back). 
So we have a new dart on the side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new dart perfectly performs its function - that is, just like the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your chest. 
And now you can continue cutting your dress, with full confidence that the new dart will fit perfectly into the shape of your bust, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.
Our lesson has come to an end. I hope it was informative and helped you understand such a simple method of clothing modeling as transferring a dart. Good luck and creative mood!