Principles and techniques for modeling a dress based on a basic pattern. Modeling a dress How to model a basic dress pattern

Hello, my dear readers! How much beautiful dress models! But you don’t always have ideas in your head on how to put them into practice. I want to present to your attention several interesting options.

We transfer the chest dart to the side (see details).

We move the waist dart to the side, draw a yoke-belt, raising it to the center of the front of the dress. Up to the upper corner of the yoke, we make the desired cutout with a “droplet”.

The original dress is a half-sun.

We transfer the chest dart into a gather on the shoulders (more precisely, we do not transfer the dart anywhere, but we draw up a new line for the front neckline).

We move the waist dart to the side (as in the figure with an arrow).

On the back of the bodice we draw a new neckline and armhole so that it matches the front part.

We transfer the chest dart to the armhole (more details - .

Draw the desired division of the bodice into three parts. We form a drapery on these parts.

In the center of the front we make a “droplet” of the desired size.

Dress with one-piece sleeves and a-line neckline

We draw a relief from the neckline to the side of the bodice. We translate the chest dart.

We make a small sleeve (10 cm) - we lengthen the shoulder line.

Draw the neckline with a trapezoid.

We transfer the chest dart on the right into a diagonal undercut, which goes from the corner of the right dart to the upper edge of the left dart.

The left dart is sewn like a dart.

We lengthen the shoulder a little - we make a one-piece sleeve.

We make a detail with pleats on the right and left sides of the skirt at the height of the waist dart on the skirt. We form a decorative part with warehouses by spreading them to the desired size (marked with scissors in the figure)

We make our own pattern-base.

We transfer the chest dart into the neckline, but do not close it, but leave it for folds on the neckline.

We make an extension at the waist - a straight silhouette.

On the back pattern we draw a cut with a long boat.

We complete the sleeve and make a hole in it for the shoulder.


We transfer the left chest dart to the side of the bodice.

On the right side we transfer the chest dart into the armhole of the dress.

On the right side of the dress, lower it 10-15 cm from the waist line. Connect this point with the dart point at the waist with a flexible line.

We form the side part - between the chest dart and the pattern line that we just drew.

We will frame this part with a flounce. The length of the shuttlecock is equal to the black line in Fig. below.

We make the construction of the flounce, like the construction of the peplum on this skirt.

We cut the large part of the dress along the chest and waist line and spread it to the desired size to create drapery.

We make a triangular cutout on the back.


We transform the chest dart into relief.

We form a new line for the neckline and armholes (we make narrow straps).

We form a peplum on the side parts of the front and on the back of the dress.

We transform the chest dart into relief and form a square neckline.

Watch another video about modeling such an interesting dress:

When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.

Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern

Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!

In this article, we will learn how to model a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method. In the last article we learned what we will need to sew a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size.

In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These increases are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning how to build the basis of a dress, so I offer you several silhouettes:

INCREMENTS FOR A LOOSE FITTING ALONG THE CHEST, WAIST, HIPS

INCREASES FOR LOOSE FITTING ON THE BACK AND SHELF AREAS

INCREASES TO THE LENGTH OF THE BACK TO THE WAIST, TO THE DEPTH OF THE ARMROOM, TO THE WIDTH OF THE NECK

EXTRAS FOR LOOSE FITTING TO SHOULDER CIRCUMSTANCE

Explanations for the tables:

  • PG – increase along the chest line
  • Fri – increase along the waistline
  • Pb – increase along the hips
  • Pshs – increase in back width
  • Pshp - increase in floor width
  • Pspr – increase in armhole freedom
  • Pop – increase in shoulder circumference
  • Pshgor - increase in neck width
  • Pdts – increase in the length of the back to the waist
  • Pdtp - increase in the length of the front to the waist
  • Pvpk – oblique increase in shoulder height

Below is a list in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

  • Half neck circumference (Ssh) - 15 cm
  • Half chest circumference (Cg) - 40.5 cm
  • Half waist circumference (St) - 29 cm
  • Half hip circumference (Sb) - 44.5 cm
  • Back length to waist (Lts) - 40 cm
  • Back width (W) – 16.5 cm
  • Front length to waist (Dtp) - 42 cm
  • Chest height (Bg) - 25 cm
  • Center of the chest (CG) - 9 cm
  • Shoulder length (L) - 13 cm
  • Product length (Di) - 85 cm

I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.

Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern

Let's start with the drawing

It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth.

Dress length. In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).

Dress width. From point P to the right, we will set aside the half-circumference of the chest + 3 cm (increase for a loose fit), and put point P1 (segment PP1 = Cr + CO = 40.5 + 3 = 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, we will set aside a segment equal to PP1 and place point H1 (segment HH1 = PP1 = 43.5 cm). Connect points P1 and H1


Waistline. From point P downwards, we put the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). From point T to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line P1H1 and denotes the intersection point as T1.


Hip line. From point T downwards, we will set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place point B (TB=1/2Dts=40:2=20cm). From point B to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line Р1Н1, and we denote the intersection point as B1.


Back width. From point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and place point P2 (PP2 = Шс+СО=16.5+0.9=17.4 cm). From this point we draw down a straight line of arbitrary length


Armhole width. From point P2 we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm and place point P3 (P2P3 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 1.5 = 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment P2P3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, you need to select the resulting value of this segment for yourself; in the future we will use this value. Draw a straight line of arbitrary length down from point P3.


Back neck cut. From point P to the right, we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and place point P4 (PP4 = 1/3Сш+СО = 15:3 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm). From point P4 up, we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P5 (P4P5=1/10Сш+СО=15:10+0.8=2.3cm). Divide the angle with the vertex P4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck - 0.3 cm and place point P6 (P4P6 = 1/10Сш-СО = 15:10-0.3 = 1.2 cm). Let's connect points P, P6 and P5 with a smooth line, and the angle at point P should be straight.


Shoulder section of the back. From P2 we will set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and put point P. Connect points P5 and P, and on this straight line we will set aside the length of the shoulder + 2 cm for the dart from P5 and put P1 ( Р5П1=Дп+2cm=13+2=15cm). Again, on this line from point P5 we will set aside 4cm and place point O (P5O=4cm). Down from point O we will set aside 8cm and place point O1 (ОО1=8cm). To the right of point O, set aside 2 cm and place point O2 (OO2 = 2 cm). Let's connect points O1 and O2, on the resulting straight line from point O1 we will put 8 cm at the top and place point O3 (O1O3 = 8cm). Now let's connect points O3 and P1.


Armhole depth. From P downwards we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5cm) and put point G (PG=1/4Cr+CO=40.5:4+7.5= 17.6 cm). Through point G we draw a straight line to the intersection with straight line РН, denoting the point of intersection G1, to straight line Р1Н1, denoting the point of intersection G3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from point P3 we denote G2.


Back armhole cut. From G upwards we will set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2cm and put P2 (GP2=1/3PG+CO=17.6:3+2=7.8cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put point P3 (GP3 = 1/10Shpr + CO = 11.6:10 + 1.5 = 2.6 cm) divide line GG2 in half and put G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4 with a smooth line.


Front armhole cut. From G2 upward we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P4 (G2P4 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 4.5 = 14, 6cm). From P4 to the left we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and put P5 (P4P5=1/10Сг=40.5:10=4cm). From G2 up, we will set aside 1/3 of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (G2P6 = 1/3G2P4 = 14.6:3 = 4.8 cm). Let's connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line and divide them in half; set aside 1 cm from the division point to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark point P7 (G2P7=1/10Shpr+CO=11.6:10+0.8=1.9). Let's connect points P5,1,P6,P7, and G4 with a smooth line.


Shelf neck cut. From G3 up, we will set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put P7 (G3P7 = 1/2Cr + CO = 40.5: 2 + 1 = 21.2 cm). From G2 we will set aside the same amount upward and place point P8 (G2P8=G3P7=21.2 cm). Connect points P7 and P8. Now from point P7 to the left we will set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P9 (P7Р9=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5cm). Down from point P7 we will set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 2cm and place point P10 (P7P10-1/3Сш+СО=15:3+2=7cm). Let's connect points P9 and P10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From point P7 we will draw a straight line through the division point of the segment P9P10, and on this straight line we will set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 1cm and place point P11 (P7P11=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+1=6cm). Let's connect points P9, P11, P10 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point P10.

Shoulder section of the front and breast dart line. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and place G6 (G3G6=Cg=9cm). From G6 we will draw a line upward until it intersects with the line P7P8, and we will denote the intersection point as P12. From P12 downwards, we will set aside the measurement of chest height and put point G7 (P12G7=Bg=25cm). From point P12 we will put 1cm down and put P13 (P12P13=1cm). Connect points P9 and P13. And we connect points P13 and P5 with a dotted line. Along this line from point P5 to the right, we will set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment P9P13 and minus 0.3 cm, put point P14 (P5P14=Dp-P9P13-0.3=13-3-0.3=9cm). From point G7 through point P14 we draw a segment equal to segment G7P13 and place point P15 (G7P15=G7P13). Connect points P5 and P15.

Side seam line. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place point G5 (GG5 = 1/3Shpr = 11.6:3 = 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line we will put point B, at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom we will place points T2, B2, H2.

Determining the solution of darts along the waist line. We add 1cm to the half-waist measurement (St+CO=29+1=30cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (43.5-30=13.5cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of dart solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5 cm.
the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
side tuck opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 1 cm to the half-circumference of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 ​​(45.5-43.5 = 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1cm each).

Side dart. From B2 to the left and to the right, we will set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1 cm) and put points B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6:2 = 3cm) and place T3 and T4. Let's connect point B to points T3 and T4. Let's connect points T3, B4 and T4, B3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the sides and now connect them with smooth lines to form a side cut through points T3, 0.5 and B3 and through points T4, 0 ,5, B4.

If the difference between the half-circumference of the hips with an increase for a loose fit and the width of the dress along the hips line is negative, for example, the half-circumference of the hips + CO = 47 cm, and the width of the dress along the hips line is 45 cm, then the difference between these values ​​will be -2 cm. This result is also equally distributed between the back and the shelf (-1cm). And the side seam line will look like this.

If the difference is zero, then points B3 and B4 will coincide, i.e. the side seam line will connect at point B2.

Shelf waist line. From point P7 downwards, we will set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T5 (P7T5 = Dtp + CO = 42 + 0.5 = 42.5 cm). Connect points T4 and T5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point T5.

Shelf hip line. From B1 downwards we will set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and put B5 (B1B5=T1T5. We connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point B5

Dart on the shelf. From G6 we will draw a straight line down to the intersection with line BB1. The intersections with the lines of the waist and hips will be designated by points T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, we will set aside half of the front dart solution (3.4:2 = 1.7 cm) and put T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T10 and T11.

Dart on the back. Let's divide the segment GG1 in half, and denote the division point as G8. From G8 we lower the line down until it intersects with the line BB1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line we will place points T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.1:2=2cm) and place T7 and T8. From G8 downwards, set aside 1cm, from B6 upwards, set aside 3cm. Let's connect these points to T7 and T8

Shelf bottom line. From B3 and B4 we will draw lines down to the intersection with straight line HH1 and designate points H3 and H4. From H1 down, we will set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and put the point H5 (H1H5 = T1T5). Connect points H3 and H5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point H5.

And now we can congratulate ourselves, our pattern for the base of the dress is ready!

Once again, I draw your attention to the fact that I made all the calculations according to my own standards, so be sure to include your data in the calculations. Good luck with your sewing and creative inspiration!

Looking at glossy magazines, sometimes there is a feeling of regret that a dress you really like from a fashion show or from the red carpet, even if you can try it on in a boutique, can only be worn to a party in your dreams. Unfortunately, this dress will remain an unrealizable dream if you do not arm yourself with a basic pattern and model exactly the same model.

Modeling stages and rules

The design process begins with a technical drawing and modification of the top or bottom of the main pattern:

  • the selected model is divided into correctly constructed parts according to the most accurately taken measurements;
  • body features are taken into account;
  • Increases are made for seams or loose fit, depending on the chosen style and material.

The modeling ends with cutting and sewing.

Modeling the bodice by transferring darts

The first step towards modifying the dress is to move the upper chest dart. There are many ways to transfer, for example, into the armhole cut, into the waist or neckline, into the middle of the front, or into the drapery.

To do this, you need to outline its new position so that it is directed to the highest point of the chest. Further along the lines, the pattern is cut and the old dart is closed, revealing a new one.

Below are common options for transferring a bust dart.

To transfer the dart in the shoulder seam to two soft folds, draw two lines on the pattern (in the example indicated by a dotted line) at a distance of 2 cm. Connect the top of the dart with the drawn lines. Close the dart by cutting the pattern along the lines.

Here is an example of a dress with a cutout on the shoulders, where the dart is transferred to the neckline. Then the sleeve is completed and the skirt is lengthened.

Creating draperies

It’s a little more difficult to transfer the dart into the drapery. This is done like this:

  1. On wallpaper or a piece of paper, use a pencil to trace the outline of the unfolded front bodice pattern.
  2. From the tops of the two bottom and top right darts, draw lines to the left shoulder. Close the darts, leaving only the left breast piece uncovered.
  3. Having moved the darts apart, trace a new outline of the bodice, smoothly connecting the top points of the left shoulder.

You can translate both darts at once:

  1. On the unfolded front bodice, apply shaped bold lines and drapery direction lines.
  2. On the left half, move the tops of the darts to the upper end of the shaped line (i.e. F) and circle their new position.
  3. On the right half, raise the top of the second waist dart to the top of the chest dart.
  4. First cut out the pattern along the outline, then cut it along the drawn lines.

The shaded areas on the pattern are fabric allowances when cutting, which are needed to create draperies.

Swing collar

A beautiful drape at the neckline can be created in many ways, but they start with closing the dart.

  • Measure the length of the shoulder seam, then draw the shaped lines. Cut them, leaving 1 cm uncut along the shoulder line.
  • Expand the resulting parts, draw a horizontal line from the highest point of the shoulder line.
  • Create a one-piece lapel.

A few more examples of modeling a swing collar.

Modeling a fluffy dress

A short dress with a voluminous skirt and an asymmetrical cutout on the bodice will allow you to be a queen at any celebration.

  1. On the front bodice, move the left breast dart to the side seam, and the right one to the waist line.
  2. Move the left dart at the waist 2 cm to the center.
  3. Reduce the shoulder length to 7 cm and make the neckline higher.
  4. Make the armholes 2 cm deeper.
  5. Draw a petal-shaped cutout and cut the pattern along the modeled lines.
  6. On the back, as on the front, shorten the shoulder and deepen the armhole.
  7. Draw a triangular cutout, leaving 23 cm along the middle line.

For the skirt, draw a rectangle of the required length, the width of which will be equal to two hip circumferences. If the width of the fabric is not enough, cut the skirt out of two pieces.

The petticoat consists of two parts:

  • 1st – top, 25 cm long and one and a half waist circumference wide;
  • 2nd – bottom, width equal to two hip circumferences.

The entire length of the petticoat is made 2 cm shorter than the skirt.

Construction of loose dress patterns

A loose-fitting dress is an option that is created in a hurry, because it is suitable for a beginner in sewing. It does not require a zipper, it simply leaves an unstitched area along the back for sewing on a button.

  • Mark the back with a dotted line and spread it 12-14 cm. The splendor of the folds will depend on the angle of inclination.
  • Round the hem line and make the armhole and neckline deeper.
  • On the front of the dress, move the chest dart to the waist. The front should be a little more flared, so add 4 cm to the bottom line of the back and front.
  • The side lines of the two parts are straight segments.

If you want a dress that is short in front and long in back, on the back pattern created above, measure the desired length in the middle of the fold and draw rounded lines to the side seams.

Modeling a short dress - the sun is similar to a real flower, as it allows you to create volume with many coattails.

Having drawn a rectangle, create a pattern for the front and back with a shoulder length of about 5 cm. Cut out the parts with a fold.

Dress from Dior

An unusual fitted dress from the catwalk, decorated with a cord and with two pockets, will appeal to many.

When modeling this dress, you need to take into account some nuances:

  1. The relief from the neckline smoothly extends to the back through the side seam.
  2. There is a zipper inserted in the side sections.
  3. The sleeve is made with two seams, one of them will hide the cord.
  4. Sleeve cuffs are stitched. If the fabric is very dense, the sleeve flap on the inside can be made from lining fabric.
  5. Patch pockets.
  6. If the fabric frays, immediately process the cuts, for example with an overlocker.
  7. The cord is sewn by hand, with hidden stitches, on both sides.

Ready-made patterns are useful, but sometimes it’s difficult to use them to realize an unusual idea, your own idea, and sew a dress “like in a magazine.” In this case, it is necessary to model a new drawing, taking the base one as a basis. This will allow you to sew the product according to your parameters.

Dress modeling is the process of changing a finished drawing or creating a new one based on a visual image of clothing (from a magazine, from a catwalk). The style is altered to suit the body type so that the sewn item fits well and suits the body type and body type. A striking example is the modification of a straight dress or a classic “sheath”. Using their base pattern, you can widen the hem, add sleeves, move the waist line, and make additional darts if the difference between the waist and hips is large.

In all cases of modeling, the term “basic pattern” is used. This is a universal template based on which a new one is created that meets the requirements and wishes of the master.

Individual products are modeled following the sequence of steps:

  1. model development - adjusting the basic pattern or creating a new one;
  2. design of parts and methods of connecting them;
  3. taking measurements;
  4. transferring measurements onto paper and then onto fabric.

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Modeling techniques

There are several well-researched, “working” methods for creating custom items. Using one of them, you can easily model the product you need. The traditional method is “tattooing”. This is an ancient technique in which the product is modeled and sewn on a mannequin or directly on a human figure. Tattooing is done with pins and invisible threads.

An equally simple method is the fake one. It allows you to process the shape of the finished product and display it in the desired size. For modeling, they use standardized patterns, work on a base pattern, or build a design design. The method is widely used when trying on things during tailoring.

The most common method is computational modeling. Using it, a pattern of the required size is created on the basis of a conventional standard drawing. The drawing is built according to geometric calculations. There are several directions within the method:

  • proportional-calculated;
  • calculation and analytical;
  • calculation and graphic;
  • customer-oriented.

First of all, the famous “Müller” method is considered. It involves sewing things with a long back, medium chest and narrow hips. Also included in the calculations is the Lin Jacques method for a conventionally standard figure with special tables for measurement. And a version developed in the Russian Republican House of Models. It is simple - formulas and lengthy calculations are not needed to create patterns.

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Customer-focused techniques are based on a desire for individualization.

  • “Lubax” - taking into account horizontal and vertical lines, setting standards for figures of a certain type and choosing patterns, the value of which is adjusted according to body parameters.
  • “Unimex” is the simplest, fastest method of sewing according to the characteristics of a particular person’s body.
  • “Genetics of G. Zlachevskaya’s cut” - sewing dresses according to the “golden ratio” principle.

Start of simulation

Before modeling a summer, warm or evening dress, you need to measure your body parameters as accurately as possible and calculate the numbers to finalize the base drawing. We must not forget about the allowance for freedom of fit - they depend on the chosen silhouette, style and type of fabric (elastic, thin, dense).

  • If you are sewing a dress from a photo, you need to understand what kind of base you will need. Then transfer its details onto tracing paper using the standard sequence of actions.
  • Draw the main axis in your drawing - this is the middle line of the shelf. To construct it, focus on the jugular fossa on the torso, on the center between the most protruding points of the chest, on the midpoints between the vertical lines of the structure.
  • Draw perpendiculars along the design points - these are the lines of the chest, hips, shoulders and waist (plus the knee if the dress is elongated).
  • Construct a basic grid that takes into account the depth of the neckline, the height of the hip and chest, and the knee line.

Having created a grid, you can compare the conditional dimensions with the real “dimensions”. The base is designed according to measurements taken from the body. The more accurate they are, the better the item will fit. When taking measurements, you need to stand straight, do not slouch, or pull in your stomach.

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Dart modeling options

Most often, during the process of pattern changes, breast darts are transferred. The shape of the shoulders and chest is very individual, and you need to determine the location of the point anew each time. The dart is moved to the lower side corner of the bodice - to the mark of the intersection of the side cut and the waist line. The top of this corner needs to be connected to the bottom corner on the bust dart. You will get a line for “opening” the pattern. In this case, the original darts are closed and the individual sketch can be transferred to the fabric.

The bust dart can be moved lower. To do this, in the drawing of the bodice, the waist dart is connected (at the corner) with the lower corner of the dart on the chest (it is designated by the top of G8). The upper element closes, and the lower element opens completely. To transfer the dart into a cut on the side, you need to divide the base in two or three, depending on the style. The dot placed will be the beginning of a new element. It needs to be connected by a line to the top of G8, cut and closed. The modified pattern for darting the side cut should end 1.5-2 cm from G8.

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The basic bust dart can also be moved to other locations.

  • In the cut of the armhole. It is divided in two or three, and the division point is connected to G8 - you can create a curved relief by outlining a smooth curve and closing the chest opening on a dart or corner, lowering the line from G8 to the waist.
  • Shoulder cut. It is also divided into 2 or 3 parts, a straight line is drawn from the resulting point to the waist dart, and the chest dart is cut and closed.
  • Neck cut. Its line is divided into two or three, the points are connected to G8. And the connecting axis is cut and transferred - the cutout will form soft gathers.
  • Center of the front panel (on the gathered bodice). From G8 you need to build a perpendicular to the middle of the front, make a cut along it and transfer the dart, draping the gathers.
  • Armhole undercut. You will need to draw a perpendicular similar to the line from the previous point, then fix the dart at the waist and fix part of the top (for example, with pins), and form the remaining solution into small assemblies.
  • Under the yoke from the armhole. The upper part of the bodice is cut completely (and not partly, as in the previous version) and a yoke is formed.

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Modeling dresses based on the sheath style

It is often necessary to adjust the base of a sheath dress when there is a strong difference in girths at the waist and hips. For a pear-type figure, you can narrow the bottom of the basic pattern (as when sewing a pencil skirt), accentuating the shoulders and top. Contrasting inserts, a boat neck, a large, voluminous collar or a decorated neckline are suitable. A slightly high waist also visually corrects the figure, but you need to be careful when narrowing the skirt. If the difference between the chest and hips is significant, the bottom should be slightly wider.

It should be remembered that:

  • model relief lines run from the armholes to the very bottom along the darts at the waist;
  • the middle line of the back should fit well - transfer part of the solution to it;
  • if the difference between the hips and the waist is large, the openings when fitting exceed 3.5 cm, the darts are divided into two, otherwise there will be unsightly creases in the waist.

The skirt can be modified by cutting at the waist. The “tulip” style is formed by two opposing folds along the front (from the end of the waist darts the part is cut vertically downwards), and a cut is made on the panel at the back. A cut-off dress with an extended skirt can be modeled by re-drawing the line along the front neckline. Next, you need to move the waist dart to the side, draw a half-sun on the skirt and make a neckline and an armhole on the back side of the bodice, connecting them to the front.

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Modeling on straight dresses

On a straight or loose silhouette, you can model a style with an extension of the skirt at the bottom - A-shaped.

The side cuts are made straight, and the bust darts are moved to the seam on the side. In detail you need to outline the yoke along the front. If the model does not have sleeves, you can make two lower one-sided folds and one counter fold, from the neck to the bottom. The darts along the back are removed, and on the shelf it is necessary to add depth along the fold (12-15 cm are set aside from the middle). Such models are most often sewn above the knee length, otherwise they turn out to be excessively narrowed at the bottom. Pockets are often cut into the side seams.

You can model individual dresses not only by transferring darts. For example, by replacing them with relief, you can make a new item from a basic pattern with long sleeves with cuffs, a “lowered” shoulder, straps or a yoke above the chest. Cutouts are also often changed - a V-shaped neck is made from a round neck. By changing the base, you can sew many beautiful and unique dresses for all occasions.

Charming dress from the 2016 summer collection by American designer Ralph Lauren.

Dress with vertical lines extending from the armhole. The peculiarity of the location of the reliefs is that they extend far (3-4 cm) from the center of the chest. At the level of the waist line, the reliefs also run closer to the side seam and are located approximately 2-3 cm from the usual position of the waist darts. American armhole. Open, as a result of reducing the length of the shoulder.

This dress is suitable for women with small breasts.

Right-click on the image and select “Open image in new tab.” The picture will open in high resolution and you will be able to clearly see the details of the dress.

Modeling

We take a ready-made dress with a fitted silhouette.

We begin modeling by designing the armhole. In the photo we see that the length of the shoulder seam is approximately 3-4 cm. This is exactly the distance to the beginning of the shoulder dart A4A8.

We need to reduce the length of the armhole by this distance and then close the shoulder dart and transfer it to the armhole. To do this, take a figured pattern and draw a new armhole line with a smooth curve through point P7 and nullify this line to point P6. And cut off the armhole along the new line.

And the same on the back. We connect point I to point G2 with a smooth curve. The back for this dress can initially be built without a dart along the shoulder seam.

Just below point P6, about 1-1.5 cm, mark a new point on the armhole. This will be the starting point of the relief on the front half of the dress. Connect this point to the center of the dart with a straight line. And cut the shelf pattern along this line.

Then we close the opening of the chest dart from the shoulder seam and get a new dart coming from the armhole line.

Now we need to draw the first relief line on the shelf and back. On the shelf, the first (right) relief line begins at the end of the right side of the dart. At the waist line, the relief extends to the left 2-3 cm from the edge of the dart and then goes down horizontally.

On the back, a relief line begins at the armhole, at a distance of 15-2 cm from point P3 down. At the level of the waist line, the relief, just like on the shelf, runs at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge of the dart.

The second cut of the relief line on the front starts from the end of the left side of the chest dart. At the waist line, this line is located at the distance of the waist dart opening of the front. But you can make this solution smaller than the original one, and then fit the dress a little along the middle seam.

And we also draw a second relief line on the back, retreating from the first along the waist line by the amount of the back waist dart opening. Or a slightly smaller value. And you can also make a fitted fit along the middle back seam.

And now we cut out the pattern along the outlined relief lines.

We cross out or seal all the initial darts. We don't need them. We only have relief lines left.

And now we can make the bottom flare. The flare can be done from the hip line or from the waist line. In my diagram the flare is small, because... There wasn't enough drawing space)).

At the beginning of the article, I wrote that this dress is suitable for girls with small breasts, because... the relief line runs far from the center of the chest. But it doesn’t matter if your breasts are large and you really like the dress. Just make the relief closer to the center.

If you are sewing this dress with a lining, then cut out the lining in the same way, i.e. with reliefs.

© Olga Marizina