Closer to the point, Milan Fashion Week is being dissected more than once, analyzing trends, analyzing changes in the usual show schedule, painting rosy prospects for some and assessing someone’s creative or, conversely, commercial potential. For now, we can confidently talk about the trend that has become the leitmotif of the entire Milan week - the absolute triumph of the athleisure style, which mixes sportswear, activewear made from high-tech materials and classics, which in this context have received a completely new interpretation. Some people completely abandoned the usual suits in favor of soft, more cardigan-like blazers without lining or shoulder pads. Those brands for which classic is part of their DNA have made every effort to create a new soft and relaxed silhouette.
For specific fashion trend there is a more global idea of travel, which each designer reveals in his own way. For one it’s a cruise around the world, for another it’s a journey through musical styles, and for a third it’s something like hiking. “We must learn to share with representatives of different cultures and people in general,” Miuccia Prada said backstage at the show, and this phrase immediately clarified everything.
In fashion, there is almost no talk about disasters, human suffering and injustice. But the emotional intensity of an individual European who saw the terrorist attacks in Paris and the plight of Syrian refugees can be understood. Every model who walked the catwalk Prada, was equipped with all the essentials - with a loaded backpack on her back, she reminded that at any moment anyone could find themselves in the position of a refugee. “I carry everything I have with me,” Prada concluded.
Gucci
Alessandro Michele confidently continues to follow his line: “androgyny” and “vintage” still remain the key terms for understanding his collections. At his shows, styling (that is, the image as a whole: from makeup and hairstyle to the combination of things and accessories) plays almost main role, delighting from the first show or leaving less sophisticated viewers, including the stronger sex, in slight bewilderment.
In the next summer's collection, dedicated to the great traveler Marco Polo, there was again room for what seemed to be the most incongruous things: from alcoholic T-shirts, sports shorts and Chinese silk robes to souvenir bomber jackets and military uniforms from two centuries ago. These sometimes too eccentric images are the improvisation of a stylist who allegedly decided to empty the costume department of a certain film studio.
Following the concept of the show, one can imagine an avid traveler - one who is willing to spend money on an early 20th-century silk Chinese robe or the uniform of a Victorian Royal Guardsman. Image is an image, but by entering a boutique, everyone can evaluate catwalk items without regard to context and decide for themselves what to wear them with.
Prada
The theme of travel became the starting point for Miuccia Prada. Unlike the excited first class passengers Gucci its travelers rather move on foot, in best case scenario, on a bicycle. This time, leaving aside experiments, Prada approached the creation of the collection from a practical point of view. Almost every model was wearing either a nylon trench coat or a zip-up windbreaker - brightly colored, plaid, or printed. Google Maps. Some appeared in cowboy hats, like those worn by tourists, hiding from the sun and rain, and all of them with a backpack on their shoulders.
For workdays - suits of a familiar slim silhouette with jackets or plaid blazers; for other occasions - sports leggings, shorts, joggers or waterproof trousers. Should you swap your sports sandals for a pair of brogues at the office? Everything you need can easily fit in a backpack: Prada thought of that too. A sensible and pragmatic approach for a brand hit by a crisis - its profits fell by almost 30% last year.
Armani
Perhaps for the first time, the collection of Giorgio Armani, the designer who revolutionized men's business clothing more than 30 years ago, did not include a single formal suit. Although the show was completed by three dark blue tuxedos, this did not affect its concept. Armani presented his version of casual style, which, although essentially never changes, suddenly became relevant in the context of today's trends.
One can have different views on the designer’s fixation on the form he himself once invented, but in creating aristocratically imposing, sensual and at the same time masculine clothes, he has no equal. From fashionable elements (they are also branded Giorgio Armani) there are loose linen and cotton trousers with pintucks at the waist (or straight silk ones, with small prints, reminiscent of pajama bottoms), as well as light trench coats, semi-sports windbreakers and even a bomber jacket. The cropped jackets, made from linen, tapestry, cotton and jersey, although completely devoid of structure (they have no shoulder pads or lining), still retain the silhouette invented by Armani.
Pal Zileri
On the idea new collectionPal Zileri, a brand that is rising from the ashes like a Phoenix before our eyes, designer Mauro Krieger was inspired by the works of the Italian artist Manlio Rho, who combined cold Russian Suprematism with a rich Italian palette. It turned out to be close creative method Krieger himself (the designer called it Avant-Craft), which connects the best tailoring traditions Pal Zileri in making classic suits with new colors, patterns and materials. From Ro there are geometric prints - on suits and shirts - and a muted but rich palette of olive, blue, ocher, eggplant and dark cherry.
The basis of the collection - a suit (exclusively single-breasted this season) - Krieger made it straight and loose, combining it with silk shirts and Bermuda shorts, with T-shirts made of perforated suede, which can be mistaken for knitwear, leather trousers and shirts. The main discovery for the designer was silk produced in Vicenza, where the factory is located Pal Zileri. By incorporating silk thread into costumes from fine wool and tweed, Krieger added a subtle shine to them. The most spectacular items were those with geometric prints printed on silk with an unexpected 3D illusion, and silk waterproof parkas.
Versace
Show Versace was perhaps the biggest surprise of the week. Expectations to once again see a parade of males with overflowing testosterone, in silk shirts with baroque arabesques and jellyfish, leather trousers with golden zippers or just wearing shorts, did not come true at all. Perhaps the reason for the change was a new sports line Versace Active, which set the direction men's collection, with which she was combined at the show.
The color scheme was reduced to khaki, beige, dark blue and lilac. There was nothing deliberately flattering or revealing about the clothing itself, with the exception of a few lycra cycling shorts. Volume and plasticity - two fundamental components of the collection, so obvious in the long nylon parkas, inflated like parachutes, sports blousons and oversize coats - were continued in more formal wardrobe items: soft pullovers and cardigans made of silk jersey, flowing silk shirts and suede trench coats
Dolce & Gabbana
The main theme of the Italian duo's collection was music. To the sounds of a jazz band, the history of music of the 20th century unfolded before the audience. There were 1920s bluesmen's sequined tuxedos, cropped trousers, 1950s Teddy Boy brogues, and 1980s rappers' bomber jackets and banana pants. A bold combination of gold jacquard, colored leather, jersey and silk and a huge variety of prints - from leopard and zebra to palm and musical instruments— in any other collection could have turned into a monstrous cacophony, but not in Dolce & Gabbana, for whom this show was one of the best in recent seasons.
Moncler Gamma Bleu
The men's line of the French brand has been created since 2008 by the American Thom Browne, whose shows invariably create a stir. His staged shows, striking more with their wit than their scope, invariably evoke the same reactions: laughter, admiration and bewilderment. Show Moncler Gamma Bleu was no exception. On the podium, among the trees, a pretend boy scout camp was set up. A pair of equally conventional bears approached the models lined up along the catwalk - from each in turn she pulled off a huge raincoat, revealing a boy scout uniform underneath. It was the American designer who made it the basis of the collection of the French label, known for clothing for active leisure.
A risky cliché, but not for Brown: he masterfully combines high-tech materials, nylon, waterproof silicone with classic cashmere, corduroy and linen, using very traditional tailoring techniques that he learned while working in Ralph Lauren, and bringing the result to the point of absurdity. Over the course of 40 appearances, his Boy Scout costume evolved from quite familiar shorts with patch pockets, a shirt and a short jacket of a military cut to a phantasmagoric set of things that defied any idea of proportions, with pockets multiplying and increasing exponentially. IN Moncler They claim that all this will go on sale. And if in some places you could still guess the usual shapes of shirts, military-style jackets and trench coats, then you’ll have to rack your brains for the rest.
stylist Yesdress No Stress
A couple of times a year I get an incredible level of excitement, with greed and the mood of a seeker, I watch all the shows of men's Fashion Week.
Surprised? Ask me why men's?
And I'll explain!
Popular
Firstly, shows are now often mixed, and in men's collections there are female images (this is a spoiler for the main collection) and images in a unisex style; secondly, the men’s collections feel bolder and more creative (yes, just watch them sometime), thirdly, the latest show and bright creative streetstyle confirmed me in one thing: I myself would gladly wear a lot of what was presented.
Whether the trend now is to exchange wardrobe items with the opposite sex, or whether it’s just a coincidence, I can’t explain.
Although, looking at men in dresses and skirts, which happened to almost every designer, there was almost no doubt: gender boundaries are becoming more and more blurred with each new collection.
By the way, in the summer of 2020, the trends for layering will continue (Hermes, by the way, came up with a very cool idea on how to wear two shirts in one look), oversized, delicate pastel colors, beige total looks, gluing together black, white and gray . Apparently, the spring-summer of the next season will be extremely beautiful and stylish.
At men's shows, designers always present a lot of features and details that can be sneaked into their stylish looks.
Although, of course, we cannot do without strange decisions.
I hope this whim in the form of handbags on the ankle, for example, will not take root. No, I won’t argue, it’s original, but, to be honest, we didn’t have time to move away from purses in our lives, and now - here’s the thing - a wallet has arrived. I thought about what I could put there. Apparently, if only a stash from my wife. Although, imagine how surprised the cashier at the store will be when a young man reaches into his wallet right next to his heels for some change. I prefer the idea of drawstring wallets like Jacquemus or cardholders Saint Laurent, Honestly.
Transparent socks. You understand how strange men’s legs look in them. I remember one of the comedians joked that men’s legs always look as if men found them somewhere. In the absence of a widespread pedicure culture, I’m scared to imagine how unaesthetic it will look in everyday life. And if you add open sandals to this? Well, that’s just the idea, as it feels.
It was hard for me to see men in dresses, scarves and with women's handbags on their shoulders.
I immediately remember a scene from the movie “Gentlemen of Fortune”:
Girl, and girl, what’s your name? , asks a man in a fur coat, scarf and tights.
- And I'm Fedya.
- What a fool.
No, honestly, the hour is not far off when you will think a hundred times before turning to a person, because from afar you will not understand whether it is a girl or a boy. Maybe, after all, for banal convenience, let’s leave ourselves some distinctive features?
At Armani I discovered a belt with a lock for carrying an umbrella; on the one hand, it’s convenient because it frees up your hands; on the other hand, walking around the city with this gadget all day in conditions of unpredictable precipitation is not the most inspiring idea, you’ll agree. A raincoat, in the old fashioned way, so to speak, lovingly folded into a work briefcase, and does not take up much space, and on appearance does not have much influence.
And Louis Vuitton had a bag hysteria, no less: several models carried 7-8 bags. Well, what can I say, not only girls, when they go crazy, can put on all the best things at once, after spending several hours in their dressing room.
Thom Browne spring-summer 2020
For almost a week in Paris there were shows and presentations of fashion houses one after another. In total, more than 60 fashion shows and even more presentations of new collections for the spring-summer 2020 season took place. Summing up the season, we have selected several of the most worthy shows and collections.
Dior
For several decades the stronghold Dior the men's clothing was a gray suit. He was chosen as a timeless standard. Kim Jones understands this, but gives her own variation. For example, he invites the artist Daniel Arsham to install partially destroyed cement sculptures and clocks with cracks and chips against the background, as a rethinking of time. As a result, the conceptual landscape allowed us to rediscover the gray men's suit Dior. And to it were added brooches in the form of lilies of the valley, shirts, bomber jackets and trousers made of organza, and all this in literally transparent tones of blue, pink and signature gray. Just because modern men it doesn't bother me.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson painted what he called a beautiful picture of the collective desire for spiritual escape and tried to capture " baby sleep state" In his opinion, escape from harsh realities modern life sometimes each of us simply needs it. As a result, his models looked like wandering elves in djellabas and hippies at the same time. He mixed the aesthetics of travelers from hot countries and connoisseurs of nature, adding accessories self made and turned it all into a synonym for luxury.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing staged a real show in the center of Paris, which almost anyone could attend (if, of course, they managed to register in time). It was a charity show for the foundation RED. The collection consisted of biker jackets made of transparent PVC, on which the designer applied embroidery, many metallic leather, draped double-breasted suits made of silk, and many trousers had a cut similar to skirts thanks to deep pleats at the waist. Rousteing said he wanted to introduce the man Balmain(and, judging by some of the looks, a woman) 50 or 60 years later. Well, the futurism was instantly apparent.
Thom Browne
It was a sumptuous performance by Thom Browne. Theatrical fantasy, according to the designer, helped him imagine himself as the owner of " Versailles Country Club" Oddly enough, all these mimes are very passionate about sports - numerous basketballs and baseballs and helmets coexist with caramel-powdery shades and theatrical makeup. Balls even served as shoes. As often happens with Thom Browne, the collection mixed masculine and feminine, ironic and serious, sporty and romantic. Some dresses were reminiscent of Marie Antoinette's wardrobe. The designer explained his game this way: “ I always use sports as a benchmark, and today I was just playing with 18th century benchmarks».
Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Embodied sensuality is not just words for this brand. The trendy organza was everywhere in the men's collection, and sometimes its transparency was enhanced with the help of a wet effect. The same effect was achieved by layering organza, which seemed to flow, gradually revealing more and more skin. At the same time, the provocative theme, the use of bandage elements and lacing did not cancel out the beautifully tailored trench coats and suits in beige and ash tones.
Kenzo
This was the last show as creative directors Kenzo for Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. And she returned to the topic of water again. Over the past eight years, it has been present in their collections in one way or another. They now take inspiration from Japanese female pearl and shellfish divers known as Ama. Men and women for the show also transformed into “mermaids”, using all available visual codes: neoprene costumes; diving equipment, hoods, prints with shrimps and mermaids, openwork net sleeves studded with pearls. In any case, it was a loud last splash. - s. Back then you could seriously be a hippie, grow your hair, and it was all so damn new and cool. Returning to childhood dreams was a recurring theme in the new menswear collection. For a new generation, the designer showed this aesthetic in skinny trousers and jeans, cropped jackets and bomber jackets, pointed shirt collars and the indescribable style of rock aristocracy that he managed to convey. He even paid attention to pointed shoes and narrow ties.
The fashion industry is built on drama. Clothes are clothes, but without charismatic designers, behind-the-scenes intrigue and the whirlwind of creative directors, this world would be a completely different place. Since time immemorial (but especially in the era of Instagram), all attention has been focused on the designer: what kind of secret message has he encrypted in the collection? Will we hear about another high-profile dismissal? Did the creative director commit a crime to investors? The completed Men's Fashion Week left many topics for reflection.
Dior Men
Kim Jones's new show for Dior Men is significantly different from the first two. Not only because it turned out to be darker (instead of the pink statue of Dior - dystopian), but also because the concept of new elegance previously stated by Jones was clearly embodied in it. Although the items are tailored according to all the canons of classic men's fashion, due to the exquisite finishing and light shiny fabrics they retain the feeling of that famous Dior lightness.
Read also: How Kim Jones put fashion on the line at the show
Berluti
During the reshuffle carried out at the LVMH concern (Virgil Abloh came to Louis Vuitton; Kim Jones to Dior; Kris van Assche to Berluti), the appointment of the Belgian turned out to be the least noticeable. In addition, van Asch was in no hurry with the collection, presenting the first only a year after his appointment. There is nothing unexpected in the debut of van Asch, who seems to be one of the most phlegmatic designers, except that the palette he chose is much more varied than in his work for Dior Homme. Considering, however, that Berluti has God knows what track record in men's fashion(until 2011 the brand produced only shoes), Chris van Assche has every chance to create a new visual code for the brand.
Read also: Chris van Assche's debut was brighter than we expected
Givenchy
Clare Waight Keller has released her first collection for men, and it's definitely worth checking out. While many brands are trying to find a middle ground between formal and sporty, Keller's collection looks escapist, dreamy and nostalgic. The source of inspiration was the style of the 1970s, monochromatic items - pipe trousers, elongated tapered jackets, voluminous jackets - are presented in bright colors. This is definitely not streetwear, but it is not a formalized classic either; it is, as the designer herself summed it up, “perverted luxury.”
Louis Vuitton
“I am, of course, “that guy from streetwear,” but I would like to tell the story in classic style“,” Virgil Abloh said before his second show at Louis Vuitton. The story that Abloh eventually told the world was indirectly inspired by Michael Jackson, but was actually much bigger than that. Voluminous coats, like those of real gangsters, hints of jazz culture and stylization of the catwalk as a New York street suggest that the collection is dedicated to the success story of a black boy in American culture. Abloh showed the collection the day after the Off-White show, between the opening of the exhibition and the launch of the flower shop. And with the same swiftness, he presented a plot that, in truth, requires a more thoughtful approach. But sales results from his debut Louis Vuitton collection suggest that no one will be deterred.
Read also: Virgil Abloh presented his second collection for
Prada
Miuccia Prada, with amazing consistency, has been releasing ideal men's collections once a season since 1989. Autumn-winter 2019 is no exception. Diluted with several female images the show consisted of precisely tailored, moderately tight, moderately loose items. Jackets and coats were worn on a naked body, which, in general, did not look at all fancy: the advantages of the cut were better visible. Shirts complemented with symmetrical prints and accessories - belts wrapped several times around the body, boots with flattened toes - are elegant and ironic at the same time. In general, if you want to look good regardless of changing seasons and trends, you know who to turn to.
Read also: How was the show in Milan?
Celine
What a blessing that modern fashion has Hedi Slimane! Without him it would be much more boring, because there is hardly another designer like him who is hated and loved as selflessly. While critics and fans quibble over the artistic merits of his second men's collection for Celine, Slimane unperturbed continues to do what he did at both Dior Homme and Saint Laurent. In case you're wondering: Slimane still believes that models should be very thin, clothes should be very tight, and photographs should be black and white. Yes, he still loves rock 'n' roll and cropped pants. And yes, you can bet that his collection will be commercially successful.
Read also: Hedi Slimane's second collection is very different from the first
Raf Simons
It seems that Raf Simons is so disgusted with New York that with his collection for the brand of the same name, he disavows everything that he has done for the last few seasons in Calvin Klein. The 2019 autumn-winter collection represents the quintessence of Simons' style: it is full of familiar (and so dear to our hearts) Belgian gloom. The models are wearing fancy, over-the-eye hats and voluminous long coats; on clothes - ironic, conceptual prints. Fans of highbrow European fashion can exhale: he's back.
You can view the entire collection.
Emenegildo Zegna
If the ethical fashion movement is led by Ermenegildo Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori, it will be destined for success. Take Zegna's autumn/winter collection for example: most of the materials are recycled and created in an eco-friendly way, but design is not forgotten in the pursuit of consciousness. Definitely a successful enterprise.
Luca Bruno/AP
Versace had a consistently beautiful menswear presentation this season, with some standout details, but it wasn't exactly breathtaking. It’s still difficult almost a month after the presentation cruise collection amaze the imagination of the audience with men's raincoats. The leitmotif of the show was newspaper headlines—the brand certainly had no shortage of them this year. On the black and white T-shirts, the designer decided to write the brand name in red as the name of the publication, but still added something other than real news.
Among the men, in the middle of the show, top models walked in a black leather minidress and multi-colored sandals and in a thigh-length dress with a sequined floral pattern.
If you try to unravel the general concept of the show, then, judging by the neon colors, it is in the best traditions of the brand’s competitors from Prada, and by the wide, washed jeans and the dominance of Panama hats, one can assume the influence of the 80s and 90s of the last century. The show pleased future consumers with a mixture of textures and materials, because Donatella managed to fit wool, faux snake, oilcloth and suit cotton into 12 minutes of the show.
Fendi
Luca Bruno/AP
Parody drawings on T-shirts representing one of the brand's designers as a jester, anagrams of the words Roma and Amor (“Rome” and “Love”), graphic prints and the word Fendi written countless times - the Italian house this time decided to play with words and images. The show took place on June 18, and at it the audience was introduced to one of the creators of the collection and, by a happy coincidence, the son-in-law of Venturia Fendi herself, Nico Vascellari. Before this, Vascellari was known as a punk artist who worked in the field of sound performance. Perhaps it was him as an “artist in residence” that the brand needed to male line also began to generate income.
In addition to playing with visual images, the show organizers rethought the idea of light and darkness in the literal sense of the word - when lighting the podium.
Young people in panama hats and with tiny leather organizers around their necks, as well as with large belt bags came out of the gloomy vault of the arch. The exit itself was decorated with Vascellari's illustrations of a frog; instead of webbed fingers, the amphibian had long, sharp claws.
Dolce & Gabbana
Luca Bruno/AP
Fashion house last season women's weeks fashion did everything possible to be remembered by the audience. This time there were no flying drones carrying handbags, instead the show featured famous muses Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and gender had nothing to do with it. The heroine of many of the brand's advertising campaigns, the actress, walked the show in a black three-piece suit of a men's cut - she and D&G are equally considered symbols of Italy.
The show featured outfits for all occasions. In every sense, luxurious dressing gowns, two-piece and three-piece suits with patterns clearly borrowed from the interiors of old aristocratic families, and even ironic shirts with shorts for walking in hot weather.
The designers showed a sense of humor by “decorating” one of the images with a pattern in the form of macaroni, and on the other by placing a horizontal herring.
They couldn’t do without classic gold, and they didn’t have to; there were also plenty of elements with a Catholic theme. New was a burst of colors and prints, distinguished by the words "tradition" in Italian.
Standing out from the lineup were four older women dressed like classic tourists, but in a departure from the usual pattern, everything from the vertical logo sneakers to the neon green sunglasses featured the D&G logo. The show was entrusted to close by the legendary - this is the supermodel’s first show after receiving the CFDA Award in the “Fashion Icon” category on June 5, 2018.
Prada
Global Look Press via ZUMA Press
With each new season, correctly understanding the story told by fashion designer Miuccia Prada becomes more and more problematic. Many observers agreed that the Italian wanted to rethink male sexuality by demonstrating ultra-short shorts, which the designer called a “miniskirt for men.” A tribute to the fashion of the 60s could be seen in the characteristic floral prints and turtlenecks worn under sweaters. Also, associations with the era of sex, illegal drugs and rock and roll were evoked by color collages on sweatshirts and sweatshirts.
The spirit of rebellion was also supported by numerous earflaps, as if cut out of a blue quilt.
As in almost any men's collection designed for the warm season, some prints referred the audience to memories of beach holiday: miniature seahorses, sails and anchors. Austin Powers would appreciate it.
Giorgio Armani
Luca Bruno/AP
The spring-summer 2019 collection was made in the classic style of the brand, remaining true to its love for suits with a clear cut and plain color scheme. This year the costumes are from natural materials shades of white and blue were combined with monochrome fedora hat designs.
Armani models are always easy to spot due to the designer's lack of desire to make fashion more androgynous and create a sex revolution.
Perhaps this is why loose trousers and cardigans for yacht owners in Nice adorn the most masculine representatives of the industry every season. Some cotton suits in a bleached blue hue were reminiscent of military uniform European soldiers from the First World War, and this is not the first time Armani has been inspired by uniforms. One of the most popular fabrics is deep blue jersey.