Acids that reduce the pH of the skin they are. The pH level of the skin. What do you need to know about it? Factors affecting skin pH

This very pH is also widely known under a different name - acid-base balance. The word "balance" sounds harmony, tranquility and order, which is what we strive for in everything, including skin care.

The surface of the skin is covered with a hydrolipidic mantle, which is a mixture of sweat and sebum with the addition of organic acids. Moreover, in European languages, the hydrolipid mantle is called just acidic. Indeed, its acid-base balance is slightly shifted towards the "acidic" side. It averages 5.5. In the course of evolution, it became clear that it is precisely this pH that is necessary for effective protection against microorganisms and external chemical influences.

    The neutral pH is 7.

    Anything less than 7 is acidic, and the lower the pH, the higher the acidity.

    Anything greater than 7 is alkaline.

The pH scale is like a rainbow! Normally, our skin is in the warm green zone. © Getty Images

What causes the pH of the skin to be disturbed

    tap water;

    chlorinated pool water;

    aggressive cleaning agents (alkaline);

    ultraviolet;

    contaminated air;

    improperly selected cosmetics (not by skin type);

    unbalanced diet (trans fats and an excess of sugar in the diet are manifested by skin rashes).


Even a healthy activity like swimming upsets the pH of the skin. Therefore, pool lovers need careful additional skin care. © Getty Images

A cosmetic product with a high pH (alkaline) also raises the pH of the skin, "alkalizes" it. A product with a low pH (acidic), in contact with the skin, lowers its pH.

What happens if the pH is out of balance

As for human skin, with dry type and dryness, in principle, its pH can drop to 3.5, and with oily skin - reach a neutral value 7. The more "acidic" the hydrolipid mantle of the skin, the drier it is. It is no coincidence that almost every product for oily, problem skin contains salicylic acid.

Conversely, dry, "acidic" skin lacks lipids. Its pH is lowered and it needs additional nutrition and hydration.

It could be argued that any skin problem has to do with an imbalance in pH. The following signs indicate violations:

An imbalanced skin pH means that our protective mantle cannot cope with the onslaught of external negative factors, cannot resist infections and other adverse factors.

Review of cosmetics with pH optimal for the skin

There are products for sensitive skin with a pH that is far from neutral.


Cream-gel for face with rose water for dry and sensitive skin, Garnier


Soothing 2-in-1 Makeup Remover "Gentle Care" for Sensitive Skin, Garnier

Cleans the skin with oils without drying it out. Even long-lasting makeup is removed immediately. Soothes thanks to vitamin B5 and lily extract in the composition.


Cleansing gel "Absolute tenderness" for dry and sensitive skin, L'Oréal Paris


Cleansing Emulsion Nutri: nectar, Shu Uemura

The emulsion oil is suitable for washing dry skin, cleanses and saturates it with antioxidants and omega fatty acids from acai and magnolia berries.


Cleansing foam for the face Biosource Self-Foaming Cleansing Water, Biotherm

The foam not only cleanses, but also cares for sensitive skin, as it contains thermal plankton extract.


Purifying toner "Clear skin" against blackheads and oily sheen, Garnier


Luxurious nutrition tonic, L'Oréal Paris

The toner is suitable for all skin types. It contains nourishing rose and camellia (tea) oils and vitamin E. Product details


Daily gel serum for skin exposed to aggressive external influences, Mineral 89, Vichy

89% of the serum is Vichy thermal water, which has the ability to restore the pH of the skin and enhance its protection from adverse environmental factors. Hyaluronic acid improves tissue tone, strengthens them.


Moisturizing lotion for dry to very dry skin of the face and body, CeraVe

The light texture is quickly absorbed and moisturizes the skin for 24 hours. Thanks to ceramides, which are an integral part of skin lipids, the hydrolipid mantle is strengthened.


Concentrate activator of youth double action Advanced Génifique Sensitive, Lancôme

As you know, pH is closely related to the microflora of the skin. So the probiotics in the concentrate also contribute to the correct pH balance.

Soap has long become an obligatory hygiene item and remains so to this day. However, all cosmetic products are being improved in pursuit of a capricious buyer and manufacturers are looking for more and more “competitive advantages”. At one time, "balanced pH" became such a marketing gimmick. Now pH 5.5 is almost a must-have option for every self-respecting soap. Let's take a look at exactly how the acidity level of the cleanser affects the skin.

Marchionini's Acid Mantle

What is it: On the surface of the skin there is a hydrolipid film, an acid mantle, which is the first skin barrier. This film is called the Marchionini mantle. Marcionini's mantle contains lactic acid, various amino acids that are excreted by sweat and sebaceous glands, free fatty acids, pyrrolidonic acid, etc. All this gives the skin's natural "acidic" reaction (recall that acid in chemistry is considered to be pH below 7.0).

Functional: The skin and acid mantle are only interested in attaching bacteria that are beneficial and protect the host from pathogens. The acidic environment fixes "good" bacteria, and does not allow bad bacteria to develop, so the skin microflora is formed. The main function of the mantle is to protect the skin from bacterial and fungal infections, to provide protection from alkaline substances and microorganisms. The integral acid mantle supports the formation and maturation of epidermal lipids, and as a result, the "wall" remains unbreakable.

This figure represents the value of the acidity of the skin of some "average person". Marchionini determined the pH of the skin of a healthy person from 3.0 to 5.0. Later, the famous Blank clarified that the natural pH of the skin is still slightly higher - 4.2 to 5.6. It is now believed that the normal pH of the skin is in the range of 5.0-6.0. Manufacturers of cosmetics take this point into account: almost all mass-market products, including face creams, are in this range. And the 5.5 itself has become popular thanks to the marketers at Johnson & Johnson (who care about you and your health).

pH 5.5 is also called "balanced". Strictly speaking, this is illiterate. In fact, any cleansing cosmetic product is pH balanced. If the pH formula is not balanced, then the product will simply be spoiled. At the same time, the pH can be absolutely any, there are professional peels with an acidity level of 2.0, and there are natural soaps with 8.0, all of which are balanced.

Why alkalization is dangerous: When using products with a high pH, ​​the components that make the mantle acidic are washed out. The skin will, of course, recover its losses, but this will take time. Oily skin will recover in 3 hours, dry skin needs up to 14 hours, and it will have to be especially difficult, because in 14 hours you can wash at least one more time, that is, the “vicious circle” cannot be broken, the skin is never fully restored. As a result, the colonization of the skin by harmful microorganisms will begin, and you will get an inflammatory reaction. The optimal conditions for most harmful microorganisms is a pH level of about 7.0, and acne bacteria develop already when the pH of the skin just begins to exceed 5.5.

The fuss and hype around pH has spawned a lot of very tenacious myths that wander from blog to blog and from article to article. At first glance, the information looks plausible: do not wash your face with lumpy soap, oily skin needs to be scrubbed harder, and the main thing is that the label has the same indicator of 5.5. In fact, everything is somewhat more complicated.

Myth # 1. Soap dries the skin


  • Natural soap- a solid product, a mixture of higher fatty acids and glycerin. Vegetable oils and animal fats are composed of fatty acids. Obtaining soap is based on the saponification reaction, resulting in the formation of alkali metal salts and alcohols. Even if the soap leaves a pleasant oily film, the pH of such soap will always be alkaline - from 9-11.
  • Sindet soap- a solid product, a mixture of synthetic detergents and soaps (no more than 10%), much less drying the skin.

If we see a surfactant like lauryl sulfate or Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate on the label at the top of the list of ingredients, this is a syndet, most likely with a neutral pH. Yes, the very aggressive lauryl sulfate in cleansers has an acidity of 5.5! But if at the top of the list is something like Sodium Palmate, then this is most likely a natural alkaline soap.

We used to call something lumpy soap, hence the confusion. But, as you can see, there is a difference, the syndet can be brought to a neutral or slightly acidic pH (these are the majority of soaps on supermarket shelves), but pieces of "handmade" and other "black African" have a pH of 10.5 to 11.0. So the effect on the acid mantle will be different.

Myth No. 2. Wash oily skin harder, do not wash dry skin at all


In oily skin, the sebaceous glands are really very active, which means that there is also excess sebum, which many are trying to remove by all means. Natural soaps "made from valuable oils", toners with astringent components and alcohols, and much more are also used.

The result is usually deplorable - dehydrated, sensitive, but still oily skin (in the T-zone), most often with acne. You already understood the reason: the acid mantle is disrupted and the pathogenic microflora begins to grow. Oily skin with acne does not need to alkalize further. Your choice in the opposite direction is acidic care products. It is not for nothing that products for problem skin often contain salicylic acid, the working pH range of which is about 3.5.

In dry skin, the pH is also increased, because the sebaceous and sweat glands are not so active, which means that there are not enough "acids" in the mantle. When caring for dry skin, it is also better to choose products with an acidic pH, but look not for salicylic, but for glycolic or lactic acids in the composition, which, in addition to exfoliating, moisturize.

Myth # 3. pH 5.5 will protect the skin from irritation

A very handy myth. It would seem that everything is so simple, to track only one parameter. Alas, the irritating effect is obtained from a combination of many factors - the aggressiveness of surfactants, their combination, additional emollients in the formula, fragrances and, finally, pH. Our skin is a very complex structure, in addition to affecting the acid mantle, cleansers also affect the lipids of the protective barrier and even proteins. So you shouldn't sacredly believe that the "5.5" on the label will protect you from all troubles, you should carefully study the composition.

Most products on the market today have a pH of 5.5-7.0, which is fine for healthy skin, but if you have acne or dry skin, it already has a high pH and an acid product should definitely be your choice.

Tatiana Morrison

Photo istockphoto.com

Legendary beauty Vivien Leigh said: "There are no ugly women - there are only women who do not know that they are beautiful." We undertake to assert that this is not enough for beauty. The skin of the face and body needs proper care. And this is a whole art.

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Doctor Eskin is the ultimate encyclopedia of skin care tips. Experts (dermatologists, cosmetologists, homeopaths) and just experienced ladies share recipes that help to make the skin of the face and body clean and fresh. Note that you no longer need to spend your personal time looking for suitable recipes in books and the Web.

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  • A forum for those who have something to say.

Discovering the secrets of Doctor Eskin

Each section of the site specializes in a specific topic.

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Both young girls and experienced women are equally worried if a rash appears on the skin. Pimples, freckles, moles, and warts can spoil your mood. Section "Problem Skin" will relieve tears and despair and tell:

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What is the optimal pH level of the skin? How do I know my skin pH level? How to maintain your skin pH


So what is the ideal pH level for your skin? And how do you know if it is balanced or not? Here's how to figure it out.

WHAT IS THE PERFECT SKIN pH? HOW CAN I KNOW THE pH OF YOUR SKIN?



Ideally, our skin should be slightly acidic. So, ideally, its pH should be 5.5. However, it's okay if it's somewhere between 4.5 and 6.2. This ensures that your skin's barrier function is active and protects you from most toxins, bacteria, and other external factors.


Measuring the pH of your skin is not always easy. However, a dermatologist can help you identify it. They use a pH meter, or ph strips, to carefully analyze the surface of your skin to determine any changes in pH and assess your skin's condition.


However, there are still ways to find out if your pH levels are too high. Usually your skin will give you signals on its own when something is wrong. Just watch for these signals:

  • Excessive oiliness

  • Dry spots

  • Redness and rash

  • Eczema

  • Psoriasis

  • Acne

  • Signs of aging (fine lines and wrinkles, sagging skin)

These are all signs that your skin's acid mantle is damaged. But why did this happen? There are several factors (and habits) that can disrupt your skin's pH level. Read on to find out more about them.

FACTORS AFFECTING SKIN pH LEVEL


1. Age

As you get older, your skin becomes more alkaline. This causes the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation disorders and other problems.

2. Excessive exposure to the sun

The sun's harmful UV rays weaken the acidic lining of your skin, making it more alkaline and prone to problems such as discoloration, dullness and blackheads. Prolonged sun exposure, even as a teenager, can kick start this process quite early in your life.

3. Using an unsuitable detergent

Soap is the main culprit in your skin's pH balance. The pH of a plain soap is usually around 9, which is much higher than your skin's pH. The use of regular soap leaves an alkaline residue on the skin of the face, which makes the skin vulnerable and prone to various damage.

4. Your eating habits

Your diet has a direct impact on the pH level of your skin. The diet should not be very acidic. Too much acid in your system will affect your skin as well. Too much caffeine, sugar, yeast (found in bread and baked goods), processed grains, and alcohol will increase acid levels in your body.

5. Errors in skin care

Some bad skincare habits can also disrupt your skin's pH level. This could be:

  • Using hot water to wash your face (or body skin)

  • Too frequent use of scrubs (scrubs and washcloths are on the face almost every day)

  • Using harsh detergents

  • Taking a shower for a long time

All of these habits wash away the acidic protective coating of your skin. Well, there must be some way to prevent all of this and get the acid-base balance back on track, right? Of course there are ways. We look further!

HOW TO MAINTAIN A NORMAL SKIN PH LEVEL

Restoring your skin's pH will require restoring its barrier function. It helps to maintain your skin's hydration levels and keep it glowing and healthy. Here's what you can do:

1. Avoid soaps and harsh cleansers



This is the first thing you need to do if you love your skin. Don't use the first soap you see on your face and avoid any cleanser containing harsh chemicals. Choose foods that are pH balanced. Avoid any product offered in stores where the manufacturer does not list all of the ingredients on the packaging. Always use warm or room temperature water to wash your face.

2. Use apple cider vinegar

Apple cider vinegar is great for regulating the pH level of your skin. However, dilute it with water before applying it to your face. Mix half a cup of apple cider vinegar with four cups of water. Mix well and store in a spray bottle. Use it as a toner.

3. Use good oils and moisturizers



As you age, your skin's ability to produce natural oils and sebum decreases. As a result, the acid mantle is damaged, affecting your skin's pH balance. Using gentle moisturizers and oils will keep your skin hydrated and help it rebuild its moisture barrier. you can use ORGANIC OILS jojoba, argan, coconut and olive oil to moisturize the skin.

4. Use acids actively

Ingredients such as retinoic acid (RETINOIDS), alpha and beta hydroxy acids and amino-fruit acid, are good for your skin and can help maintain its acid balance. However, when not used properly, these acids can damage your skin's natural defenses. Most OTC products containing these acids are buffered and safe enough for use on the skin. However, if your skin starts to feel dry and looks reddish and sensitive, it means the product is not good for your skin. Stop using it immediately.

5. Remember to use sun protection



Usage SUN PROTECTION CREAM regularly is critical to maintaining your skin's pH levels and protecting against further damage. Use a sunscreen with a broad spectrum SPF and remember to reapply it daily before going outside.

6. Use antioxidants

Antioxidants strengthen your skin cells to function properly. They protect the skin from environmental influences and oxidative stress. You can use vitamin C (which is available as L-ascorbic acid) as it is known for balancing the pH of the skin well. Although vitamin C itself is slightly acidic, it can be used safely on the skin (provided that you are not using another acidic product at the same time).

7. Change your diet



Your daily diet should contain lots of antioxidant-rich foods such as green leafy vegetables (spinach is especially good for your health and your skin) and fruits (choose low-sugar fruits such as banana, wild berries, and watermelon). Avoid processed foods, as these will increase the acidity of your body, which will affect the pH level and your skin. Make room for salads and cut back on sugar.

Luckily, balancing your skin's pH is a lot easier than balancing your life! All jokes aside, maintaining your skin's pH balance starts with a good skincare routine. It doesn't have to be overly complicated. Just remember the advice you received and know the limits of what is possible for your skin - what she likes and what she dislikes. This way, your skin will stay happy for the rest of your life.

Tell your friends:

What is skin pH? From a chemist's point of view, pH is a measure of acidity. A neutral medium (for example, distilled water) has a pH of 7. Anything less than seven (up to 1) is an acidic medium, more than 7 (up to 14) is alkaline. For cosmetics, pH is an indicator of the acidity of the protective mantle of the skin and one of the characteristics of its state, which depends on a number of endogenous and exogenous factors. The acidity of the skin is impaired in some skin conditions. For example, with fungal diseases, the pH rises to 6 (weakly acidic reaction), with eczema - up to 6.5 (almost neutral reaction), with acne - up to 7 (neutral).

Skin pH - a scientific perspective

The acidity of the skin surface is one of its physiological characteristics (along with hydration, structure, temperature), a change in which inevitably affects the functioning of this organ and the body as a whole. The acidity of the skin is a constant, but its indicator can undergo some physiological fluctuations, depending on the time of day, climate, individual characteristics of the body, ensuring its functions in different conditions.

The pH value of healthy skin became a topic of discussion in the late 19th century. In 1892 E. Heuss discovered that the entire surface of human skin is acidic. This statement is still an axiom today. A well-known term characterizing the acidic skin of the skin is "Marchionini acid mantle", named after the scientist who confirmed acidophilicity as a protective ability of the skin.

In recent decades, we have seen some progress in the study of this parameter. The exact origin of cutaneous acidity is not yet fully understood, but recent studies indicate that many endogenous factors are involved in its formation (including the presence of lactic acid, free fatty acids, urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid in sweat and sebaceous secretions).

It was found that the pH of the skin surface is different and depends on race and gender. Recent studies of the bacterial flora of the human forearm surface using molecular technology have highlighted subtle differences in skin bacteria between men and women and a possible link to skin acidity. Acidity plays an important role in the physiology of the skin and directly or indirectly affects the composition of the lipids of the stratum corneum, its hydration, the barrier function of the skin, and its microbiota. The acidic pH of the skin promotes an optimal microenvironment for resident bacteria and their enzymatic activity. Together, the acidic pH of the skin and the resident flora play an important role in maintaining skin health, and it is acidity that is a key factor in its barrier function and plays a key role in symbiotic interaction with the resident microflora.

It is well known that an increase in cutaneous pH can be associated with the pathogenesis and severity of many dermatoses, including acute eczema, simple contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, vulgaris, candidiasis.

pH and oxidation factors

What makes the skin surface acidic is still not clear. The following have been proposed as endogenous and exogenous factors affecting skin pH:

Eccrine sweat and sebaceous glands;

Anatomical sites;

Humidity;

Proton pumps;

Genetic predisposition;

Age.

For example, present in sweat and sebaceous secretions, it is produced by passive oxidation of the surface layers of the skin. Another important component of the passive metabolic process includes free fatty acids, cholesterol sulfate, urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which also contribute to the maintenance of an acidic skin environment.

Active proton pumps (sodium-hydrogen-anion exchange proteins). An anatomical site is a concept akin to an "anatomical region", a local area that is smaller in size than a part of the body, but has characteristic features. For example, armpits, nose or forehead, forearm skin, palms, etc.

How to choose cosmetics with the right pH for different parts of the skin surface:

Table 1

skin surface pH

Localization

Forehead and cheeks

Forearm

Inner surface of the forearm

Forearm

Rear of the wrist

Inner surface of the forearm

Inner surface of the forearm

Inner surface of the forearm

Front surface of the forearm

Forearm

Forearm

Free fatty acids generated by lipases from bacteria and / or from pilosebaceous origin are partially involved in the genesis of the acid mantle. Recent studies have confirmed that increased activity of the enzyme phospholipase A2 leads to the formation of an acid mantle in the stratum corneum.

Skin acidity pH - variable

The pores of the skin are filled with the secretion of the sebaceous and sweat glands with a pH of 5.5. However, occlusion has been shown to significantly increase skin surface acidity, moisture content, and bacterial density, indicating a role for endogenous factors in these changes. Other factors (such as cleansers, occlusive treatments, topical antibiotics / antiseptics) also lead to changes in skin pH.

A person's age is also a factor in the decrease or increase in acidity. The skin of a newborn and infant differs from that of an adult in a number of ways. The pH of the skin of a newborn is usually 6.6 (± 0.25), which is higher than the acidity of an adult. But after a month, it decreases, and the skin becomes more acidic. The high pH of the skin of infants may be due to the difference in the chemical composition of the skin lipids. Accordingly, cosmetics for newborns and babies over one month old should have different acidity so as not to cause irritant reactions on the part of the baby's skin.

According to the literature, the pH of the skin is constant between 18 and 60 years old and in different parts of the body is from 4 to 6. In men and women over 60 years old, there is an increase in the acidity of the skin surface (a decrease in the pH value), but it is not significant and does not allow again return to cosmetics for newborns. In people over 70, the pH of the forehead skin is 5.6 - compared to 5.3 in younger age groups.

Skin acidity differs at anatomical sites: the surface pH of the nose is the lowest of all the loci tested. It has been found that the anatomical difference in pH affects the density of the microbial composition. The region with the highest concentration of Staphylococcus epidermidis is highly acidic. Generally, the pH of the skin surface is associated with sites in the body, however, the highest pH is shown for the sites with the highest moisture - these include the armpits, genital-anal and interdigital areas, called "physiological breaks in the acid membrane." It is believed that a high density of sweat glands and bacterial flora leads to an increase in skin pH and, consequently, to a decrease in acidity. It is assumed that due to the lower acidity, the normal bacterial flora in these areas differs in composition.

Table 2. Gender differences in skin pH

Anatomical

Axillary

Inner surface of the forearm

Inner surface of the forearm

Rear brush

Skin acidity also varies by race: dark-skinned people have a lower pH than Europeans, which is considered an attribute of the effect. The differences between male and female skin surface acidity are not fully understood to date. Published studies show conflicting results (Table 2). Most studies have found that men have more acidic skin than women; single observations showed the opposite situation - a more acidic pH of women compared to men; still others indicated that there were no gender differences at all.The acidity of the skin in various parts of the body (lower leg, shoulder, armpit) is subject to circadian rhythms, and its daily fluctuations vary from 4.9 at night to 5.3 in the evening.There is also evidence of seasonal variation in the pH of the skin surface: in summer it is 0.5 lower than in other seasons.

Acidity of the skin and its microflora

The acidity of the skin surface is one of the main constants that have physiological significance for its normal functioning. As we could see above, it is subject to physiological fluctuations in accordance with external factors and circadian rhythms, which indicates the presence of internal mechanisms of self-regulation, the ability of the skin to adapt to changing environmental conditions, enhance or weaken its protective properties.

The acidic pH of the skin surface has long been considered the result of exocrine secretion of the cutaneous glands, which, in turn, were involved in the regulation of the cutaneous flora. Recently published results from deep skin pH gradient studies indicate a relationship between acidity and barrier function, normal stratum corneum maturation and desquamation. Skin acidity plays an important role in maintaining its normal bacterial repeat and preventing pathogen attack.

The acid mantle, which is a thin film on the skin surface with a slightly acidic pH, contributes to the protective barrier functions of the skin. The microbial population, dynamic on different parts of the skin, is determined by anatomical localization, the amount of sebum and sweat production, local pH, humidity, temperature, and light exposure. Host factors such as age, immune, hormonal status and other parameters affect the composition and density of the skin flora. However, the relationship between skin pH and the composition of the resident microflora deserves some attention.