Men's fashion: spring-summer 2017 norub wrote in June 3rd, 2016

In clothing, men are conservative and, fortunately or unfortunately, what we see on the catwalks will be worn by a few. However, I present to you the collections of the future. From bomber jackets and baggy trousers at Dior Homme to masked feathers at Thom Browne and colorful kaftans with hipster sweaters at Gucci.

Dior Homme

The creative director of the Dior menswear line, the Belgian experimenter Chris van Asch combines the traditional austerity of the Parisian fashion house with elements of punk rock style. Such a game of contrasts can be called the hallmark of a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. In the spring collection, he effortlessly alternates between classic suits and bomber jackets, wears oversized coats over baggy trousers, and complements the looks with 80s-inspired skater accessories. Turtleneck shirts paired with sneakers and urban looks, complete with badges, chains and rings on all fingers, van Asch invites fans at home to transform into a stylish street hooligan this spring.

Balenciaga

Demna Gvasalia divided the fans of the Parisian house into two camps. And if the former applaud his talent more and more loudly, the latter treat the changes in Balenciaga with ever-increasing skepticism. The next stumbling block was the new men's collection, in which Gvasalia plays with the ideas of Cristobal Balenciaga in a very specific way. The new creative director sees architectural fashion in his own way: for example, voluminous coats with caricaturely wide shoulders and short straight shorts combined with high boots were presented on the catwalk. And the corduroy jacket of bright crimson color was appreciated by many as a comic reference to the 90s. And although while critics evaluate the work of Gvasalia without much trepidation, the designer still manages to keep them in suspense.

Louis Vuitton

Kim Jones, artistic director of the Louis Vuitton men's line, also decided to play with the idea of ​​travel. Mostly we are talking about Africa - it was here that Jones was born, and London, where he was educated. Safari style, coats and bags made of exotic animal skin peacefully coexisted on the catwalk with classic trench coats, tartan checks and punk elements. And although the new collection of Kim Jones very well fit into the traditional foundations of the Parisian house, the designer managed to make it very personal.

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Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci remains true to himself season after season: the new Givenchy men's collection is designed in the same recognizable style as several previous ones. This time, contrasts have been added to the dark color scheme: accessories and additional elements made of metallic fabric, red sneakers, T-shirts with mystical symbols and even panamas made of patent leather. Silence cannot be counted among the number of designers who constantly surprise us with bold experiments. Unlike many other representatives of the fashion industry, he is in no hurry to leave the comfort zone (both his own and his fans at home) - and, in many ways, this is the reason for Givenchy's commercial success.

Thom Browne

But the show by American designer Tom Brown, on the contrary, can hardly be called traditional. Crazy and ironic, the new men's collection has become a favorite of fashion critics: they were not embarrassed by either strange masks or even weirder cuts. Perhaps Brown's secret lies in his attitude to fashion. The designer, who walked the catwalk in suit-style jumpsuits, feather-embroidered jackets and surfboards, has never taken clothing design too seriously. However, his charm is also difficult to resist: maybe that is why Brown's humor is perceived by the public more favorably than Demna Gvasalia's irony.

Miuccia Prada is backing the outdoor trend: for Spring/Summer 2017, she invites you to hike in style, armed with a bulky backpack, a light raincoat and a pair of comfy sports boots. The show of the new Prada men's collection pleasantly surprised the brand's fans: traditional home elements (contrasting stitching, tight trousers, sporty style) this time were presented in a slightly different light. And even the famous nylon backpack - the object of any traveler's desire - looks new in combination with a classic gray coat or a brightly colored raincoat.

In search of new solutions, Alessandro Michele never confines himself to one source. So, the new men's collection was equally influenced by the travels of Marco Polo (embroidery in the form of Chinese dragons on the collars of white shirts and oriental patterns) and modern pop culture (hipster sweaters with Donald Duck). However, this is not surprising, because Michele cannot be content with little: in the collection, a journey through the medieval East is smoothly transformed into a world tour, and in different decades. From stylized Spanish bullfighter suits to '60s-inspired suits, Gucci's artistic director once again embraces diversity.